dr914jr

My last post on this thread was in July of 07 and I was sitting at 93k with my 99 c2. Now I'm up to 140k and still no major issues. just for kicks I put the car on a dyno last week. I had 244hp at the rear wheels. Not great but I'll take it at 140k. I can't wait to see how this poor sucker gives up its ghost. :)

I did the clutch in my '76 911S, but the 996 seems much more involved for a garage project without a lift. I am putting together a list of parts for my clutch job right now, which is going in for next week...so far parts including a flywheel/rms are putting me over $1300. I am told that the flywheel has to be replaced 99% of the time...or at least might as well be while you have it apart. Any opinions?

An early 911 clutch replacement is a lot more work than a 996 replacement. The entire powerplat and transmission need to be removed in a 76. A good tech. can complete the job in around 5 hours. The 996 is WAY easier. I replaced my last (with rear main and on a lift) in 3 hours and 9min. I did however loose $20 since I failed to complete the job in 3 hours flat. A 986 is considerably more work than a 996 due to the exhaust, brackets, and trans mounts.

This is a box I've been working on for quite some time now. Once I was confident that people would feel satisfied with the end result I started listing them on Ebay to gauge interest. I've sold 2 in the last two weeks but I was surprised by the minimal interest. After lots of research into boxes I was disgusted with what the aftermarket offers. They all seem way to gaudy and wildly overpriced! I really wanted something for myself that would blend seamlessly into the car's interior space (carpet color and a place to hide the amp.) and still deliver great base. My car's carpet is a little faded but the carpet on the box is as close as anyone will find to the stock color and grain. Both of the purchasing parties have been thrilled with the performance of the box as am I. Yet still people just haven't been bidding like I expected.

I'm also curious as to why anyone on earth would feel the need to install a pair of 10s or 12s in such a small car. I tried a ten in a box I built and it was just a little much for me. I think a single 8 will fulfill the needs of every Porsche owners whose name doesn't end with Cent or Dog. ^_^

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewI...em=230321234299

I bought ny 99 996 c2 about 3 years ago with57k on it. Today it has 129k and counting. I've put alot of money into the car to keep it in top running condition but I've yet to see a failure of a major part. To date the most expensive repair has been a clutch and I've installed two so far along with a new flywheel. This car has been a blast and I'll be a Porsche owner for life. :)

I installed the cable and it's working great. It seems to be a huge improvement over the transmitters that are so popular. I have a GT2 G timer mounted in the empty space below the cd storage but I’m considering running the iPod cable into the center console. I'm thinking that would keep it out of the way.

I'm getting around 17 to 19 with mixed driving.

I have been researching AUX connection for the BECKER CDR220 unit (pre 2003 ) and before I paid Becker autosound $25 for their cable which is RCA connections ( hence you will need to buy a Patch cable as well to coonct an IPOD) I discovered www. discountcarstereo.com which carries these cables for Blaupunkt units and will work for the" incredible" CDR220 unit also.

I confirmed via live chat that the DOCK connector will power the iPod also and looking at the connections of the C3 port No 15 is a "permanent =12v" and no 16, 17 and 18 are ground connections or 12v control. Becker autosound refused to confirm if the ipod can be powered via this connection and eventually said that there was no way to "slave " power from the "back " of the Cdr 220. Thank you Becker for producing such a reliable quality unit and helping the suckers who now live with it.

So any body who really knows please help.

Here is the link to the various C3 AUX connectors

http://www.discountcarstereo.com/detail.aspx?ID=993

Also if anybody is considering an upgrade to a NAKAMICHI head unit , I was told that there would be new product launch soon so may want to wait.

Thanks

I just ordered one. :)

Worked like a charm. You're the man.

Serial # 15087342 if you please Loren. It’s great to find that you can get the serial number without pulling the raddio. I wish I had known about this site years ago.

:renntech:

I would be amazed if anyone could put forth a reasonable argument suggesting that installing a single-mass flywheel wouldn't significantly add to the sheering forces exerted on the crank. I personally agree with Jake 100%.

thanks guys but the two replies contradict each other. one says the negative(vacuum)pressure will get higher and the other says it will get less!

anyway i took throttle body off and intake manifold is full of oil so cleaned everything out. TB,manifold and MAF. cleared faults and driven it hard up the road so will have to give it back to the lady and see if CEL reappears in time? oh and the other thing was she had overfilled oil by about half a litre or so so i corrected that too.

You can resolve the issue easily enough. When you replace the AOS see if the vacuum gets worse or better at the filler tube? :)

It has been my experience that large amounts of vacum at the oil cap along with rough idle and somking on startup are the trio of common seperator failure symptoms. Sometimes the cap can be very difficult to turn due to all the suction. Once the seperator is replaced the vacum virtually disappears.

How many miles on the pump? Maby a p.s. line was damaged durring the engine r&r.

Replace the seperator. Between smoke on startup and the suction at the filler it's the logical choice.

I have a Spec stage 2 and it's worked fine. I'd agree that it's a strange feeling to go from completly worn out to stage two. If you need to replace it might as well upgrade. :D

The battery may also be overcharging.

Improvements can always be made to factory products but return on investment is always an issue. I think the day a car manufacturer clams they have the perfect product is the day before they're proven wrong.

It is not crazy to think you may get 15hp from a good set of headers.

I can do a manual in half the time it takes me to replace the AOS in a TIP. The manual cars have alot more room to manuver.

Is your car a tip. by chance?

It's 996 343 018 04 supporting mount. Costs about $90. Do you feel lucky? Well do ya?

No, They're sealed units. You probably nixed the noise by adding 34psi th the tire in question. :)

I'd say rear wheel bearings are a good bet. Are your rear tires worn?

Have you had any work done on the car recently?

nice