evansaero

Stock brakes should lockup (well, actually activate ABS) when pressed moderately hard. Race pads are not the answer as they will not stop a street car any faster becasue the rubber is your weak link. You may have a problem with the hydraulic system including booster, regulator or pre charge pump. Vacuum leak can cause pedal to be harder but should still stop the car if pressed hard enough.

Check for glazing of pads

check rear window

only noise I get from that rear bar is a thong noise going over bumps

if not the windows its prob the attachment area of the head liner.

there is a tsb out for that and is very long. you will need felt tape. sorry i'm on my treo and can't find the tsb.

question... does rattle go away if you put pressure on the sunroof fabric?

like mine it's best if you ffelt the hole **** car. porsche rattles like a SOB

The noise isn't coming from the sunroof but instead this bar which is in the middle of the sunroof and rear window. In my Carrera the bar is just above where the head lining is sewed together. It gets really annoying when I drive on a bumpy road, so I hope it's not something I have to get used to.

Anyone know this TSB mentioned? Also, how do I access it?

-- Bjoern

To access the TSB you must be a paying member. It's worth it just for that alone.

"Noises in the interior trim panels" is the TSB I'm talking about.

There seem to be about 12 different TSB about noises the porsche make. I'm sure if one of the tech guys can better answer this

I know what bar you are talking about. The bar should be tight agianst the fabric. Unless it's not tight and hitting the roof I don't see how it could rattle. Try felt tape or felt pads were the bar runs.

Try this Sunroof rattle

Hi,

I've just bought my first Porsche earlier this month. It's a 2001 Carrera C2 and I'm very pleased with it. One problem which is annoying me is, however, that there's a rattling noise coming from under the head lining between the sun roof and the rear window. It seems there's a horizontal bar going across which is making all this noise. Is there a simple way to fasten this bar or do I have to take off the entire head lining, and if so, how do I do this?

-- Bjoern

check rear window

only noise I get from that rear bar is a thong noise going over bumps

if not the windows its prob the attachment area of the head liner.

there is a tsb out for that and is very long. you will need felt tape. sorry i'm on my treo and can't find the tsb.

question... does rattle go away if you put pressure on the sunroof fabric?

like mine it's best if you ffelt the hole **** car. porsche rattles like a SOB

This is VERY tempting to do, as I already have 3.6 mufflers. Then again, maybe I should drive with my windows down first and make sure I want to do this. There would not be a kind soul with the mod in the Tampa Bay area, would there ? Too much to ask, but I'd like to hear it in person rather than on Utube (sounds good though)

People have used 2" and some used 2.25". The 2.25 fits better.

It is said that if you open the cap and use the correct piping than it is the same as the Real PSE from Porsche. I would agree, the only problem was the muffler shop was not able to take off the cap. They cut it out and it came to be about a 1.5" opening. As some would say its very close to the Real PSE about 80% close.

I know want you mean about being to loud. Before I put them on I tried running with them off. "No muffler" Way to loud. Like ticket loud.

The stock setup is quite to me. To quite...

After I put the mod on I was very happy. As you I was a little concerned about it being to loud before I had put them on, being that if you listen to some of the other setups on utube ie Fabspeed , GHL,ect. Those are just not for me.

The 3.6 Mod sounds stock at idle and under normal driving it is close is stock. Maybe a little more throatier, not really louder. But the best part is when you floor it. Then you know... It sounds 10x better than stock.

If you are ever up my way, stop by and I'll show you how good it sounds. There is no performance gain but if it is sound your looking for than it's awsome.

Maybe you can find a free set of 3.6 cans (most rennlister will give them away) and have them moded. Then give your stock 3.6 away to the next person looking to mod or sell the moded muffler. WIN WIN

Anyways, IMO it is a great way to go if you don't want to spend over $1000 for new mufflers. I also believe it to be the 2nd best mod I have done to the car. B&M SSK is still the best mod to date.

I am sorry, what is PM ?

it means you have a private message.

did you get it?

Gergor you have PM

So what is the deal with the ppor man's PSE ? Is it a secret ? Can you tell us more ?

$70 at the muffler shop sounds like something I could try ;-) I had something similar done with a 993 and was pleased... Let me know !

No secret at all...

About 3.6 MOD

Also if you do a search on rennlist type (3.6 mod) and you will find other threads about it.

The real PSE sound great but at $1500-2000 thats more money than I want to put into this car. They say it's about 80% wise to the Real PSE's

You must use the 3.6 liter mufflers and not the 3.4 mufflers.

Some poeple give away their 3.6 cans :clapping:

Gergor you have PM

Poor man's PSE

:jump:

Check out the video on the

EDIT: I forgot to tell you the price. $70 at the muffler shop :thumbup:

Poor man's PSE

:jump:

Well, I have been trouble shooting and that is why some things had to be restated. I don't claim to be smart. It takes me awhile to think of doing things :oops: I myself thought it was the belt then the tenision rollers,and then the spark plug tube o-rings, then tried taking the belt off and running the engine. I have replaced everything and knew I needed to start looking elsewhere. I just thought it was the engine. Sorry about that but I do apprishate your help

Clutch out: Same as in video

Clutch IN: change in pitch (lower tone) to maybe softer

IN Gear: No Change

Out of Gear: No Change

humm,Maybe-Is there a way to do that with out taking out the trans :huh:

I think I need to restate.

Cold car that has to sit over night.

Squeaking noise will increase with RPM's

If I let the car run for 10min and not drive it the noise is still there

If I sit and pump the clutch 20 times and run through the gears sitting in my driveway the squeaking is still there

If I drive around the block (not driving hard or load) the noise is gone with 3 min

The noise will not come back until the car sit over night.

So my guess is I must be the only p-car out there that has very had this problem :help:

Started the car and had the squeaking. I unpluged the secondary air pump, tried the oil cap agian and I still have the noise.

I only two things that change the pitch or frequency is RPM's and pushing the Clutch in and out, but neither will make the squeaking no away.

Only after a good warm up will it go away and stay away until the next morning

can you take a pic of where you placed the pads? I'm having a similar problem and would love to eliminate it. TIA.

Sure I'll do that now

OK Done deal. I hope this helps.

I think the pictures explain themselves. I would have use black felt but Lowes didn't have any. On the last picture you have the wind breaker tabs. There is one on the front and rear. I put felt down next to the old felt. It seems that the old ones are worn out and I think some banging noise was coming from there when going over bumps.

Best part is it's not the cleanest job but no one knows that but me. Well now everybody :lol: :lol:

The TBS in the end did not help the problem I had.

So I tried putting felt pads on a couple of soft foam pads. Its in the area between the fabric and the sunroof.

I had to tilt up the sunroof to do the back side and open the sunroof half way to do the front part.

It worked like a charm. The car is now quite. Thank God.

Also I tighten down the speakers, It seems that the screws were a little loose

Had to use a breaker bar and alot of force to loosen it up. The front large nut can be used to do this.

Try unplugging your secondary air pump.

I'll have to try that in the morning. The car has not been driven for about 6 hours and is still to warm to make the squeaking.

It only happens first thing in the morning. First start of the day and then will only come back after the car sits over night.

Thanks for the help

Try starting the engine with the oil cap removed.

I did that to. Still have the noise

Trying to find the squeaking. If you watch the video it's the first part after start-up only when the car is cold. Like starting the car in the morning.

It goes away after the car warms up a little. 5 min drive or so and sound is gone.

I have taken off the belt and ran the engine. The noise is still there. It has been going on for the last couple months.

Today I replaced the spark plugs and the large-small o-rings on the tubes. Noise is still there.

Where else can I look or do

Anyone know how to remove the Tension Pulley (99710211700). I can't seen to brake the nut loose and I don't want to brake the tensioner

Also for those that need to replace the deflection pulley here are the PRT#

#99710211700 Which I'm having trouble with

#99710211800

#99710211900

Did you read the TSBs on this?

Thank you

OK The sunroof is rattling so bad I cann't take it anymore. Is there a fix or some screws I can tighten down. Every bump I go over makes the hole roof bang and rattle

This makes me want to sell the car. Then I turn up the radio and I again love the car :soapbox:

Please help me stay sane :wacko:

Found the part numbers

99610211756 TENSION ROLLER $51.30

99610211955 TENSION ROLLER $52.65

99611591370 TENSION ROLLER LEVER

Whats the difference?

Has anyone replaced them before?

DIY maybe?

Do I have to replace them or can I lub

Any part numbers?

I need to replace them. When car is cold I get a noise from engine area and goes away after warm. (Sounds like rollers on bad bearings or unlubed bearings) Squeeky

I suggest you replace the bad ones before they break - if they break they can take the alternator and do other damage.

Would you happen to know the parts number or what they call them so I can order them.

I guess it's not that hard to replace

Has anyone replaced them before?

DIY maybe?

Do I have to replace them or can I lube

Any part numbers?

I need to replace them. When car is cold I get a noise from engine area and goes away after warm. (Sounds like rollers on bad bearings or unlubed bearings) Squeeky

don't have the bose but have the hifi.

The 3rd input connector was my problem to.

Never done an install like this so I gave up and took it to Circuit City.

I was able to keep the stock amp and speakers. They did a great job and took about 3 hours

The sound is diff better with the new head unit. I put inthe avic-n3

Good luck