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Update: I measured fuel pressure on the fuel rail. It's odd... When turning the key without starting the engine, the fuel pump builds up a pressure somewhere between 5 and 25ish psi (it's inconsistent). However, when I pull the key out of the ignition switch and put it back in and turn without starting the engine, the pressure builds up to around 40ish. Pressure is stable over long periods of time. When I turn on the car, the pressure does one of two: 1) moves to ~44-46 psi and stays there as the engine revs or idles or 2) moves to 30-35ish. As the engine revs, the pressure can be 'pumped' up to 44-46 psi and stays there even when the engine idles. Fuel regulator looks good; no gas in vacuum line or coming out of regulator. When vacuum line is removed, the pressure jumps - as expected - to 55ish. Pressure lowers to 44-46 when vacuum line is plugged back in. Here's the kicker: when turning the engine off, the pressure INCREASES over time from 44-46 to over 50 psi! Could this be a clogged fuel filter (pressure high on upstream side of filter and low on the rail side; after turning the engine off pressure evens out over time)? Bad fuel pump?
I currently only have a basic OBDII reader. It doesn't read alarm codes. I am researching getting something more advanced at a reasonable price point. It would be awesome with a device that could cover both my cars (Porsche Boxster and Mercedes Benz CLK350 that has a recent SRS error - just can't catch a break from these cars!). Autel? Any other directions to look?
The car idles perfectly normally and steadily when I leave it turned on in my driveway. It typically cuts out after 20 min to an hour. Wouldn’t a failing fuel pump give varying fuel pressure and a resulting rough idle? Thank you for your advice; I’ll try and figure out how to run your suggested diagnostics. My boxster is a ‘learn-as-I-go’ project that I usually really enjoy. This time though, the car is parked for good in my garage, so a little less fun!
New to the forum; 2000 Boxster (2.7L engine assembled in 1998; manual transmission, transmission code ends in 002 and is a topic for another day!). Engine recently started cutting out driving home from work. The engine cuts out with no warning (no 'roughing' etc). When it cuts out, it won't restart. Hours later, engine magically starts again and runs like nothing ever happened until cutting out again. The behavior is identical whether idling in my driveway or driving. It doesn't seem to be temperature related. The way the engine cuts out with no additional symptoms or warnings, I doubt it's a fuel pump issue? Could be a clogged fuel filter, but after a while the car starts up again with no apparent issues making me doubt it is a fuel filter issue? Crankshaft position sensor: when cranking my car the tachometer stays at 0 until the engine starts. So does my other car. I see several posts that the tachometer should show a reading as the engine cranks before but before it starts. This is not the case for my two cars. People also post that if it is a CPS problem, then the engine should start again right away? I would expect the fuel supply to be cut off if the CPS doesn't signal to the ECU? Could my problem be a failed CPS even though it doesn't seem to be temperature related? My passenger side door lock is acting up. The car has been giving the characteristic 'double-honk' when locking and unlocking for a while and the window doesn't stay down the tiny bit it's supposed to when the door is open. It was on the list to fix this month. Shortly before the engine started cutting out, the 'double-honk' started sounding while driving and often. Could the problem be alarm/lock related? Shortly before the engine started cutting out, I had a few instances of the key not turning easily in the ignition switch. I read that many weird issues can arise from a faulty ignition switch; I haven't found descriptions of engine stalls though. Could a faulty ignition switch be the problem? I do have a P0442 error code; have had it for a long time though. It comes and goes, and a fuel tank vent replacement is also on my list of upcoming fixes. I doubt that it has relevance to engine problem (?), but full disclosure. No other error codes on my OBDII. Any other suggestions? Lastly, if I wanted a computer that could read/reset everything to help diagnose the problem, what would be options within reasonable budgetary constraints? Any computers that would also work for my other car (Mercedes Benz CLK350)? Thank you for your time!