achilles99

You need a scan tool capable of reading the transmission codes. Durametric or Porsche tools are the only ones I know of.

I guess it's off to the dealership, thanks!

I will try and read the codes with my OBDII scanner... if that doesn't work, I guess it's off to the dealership. Thanks RFM!

Let check the fault codes first (ASAP), sounds like a transmission or electric servo motor problem, rather than low fluid.

Would there be a code if I'm not getting a CEL? I want to take it in, but the problem doesn't happen every time. So I'm afraid the dealer won't know how to fix it unless they can reproduce the problem. Thanks!

03 Cayenne S, 58k miles. Lately, there has been a weird squealing noise that sounds like a belt coming from the engine. Also, the red light that usually flashes when changing to 4wd is now flashing periodically without me touching the lever.

Any ideas on what this could be? Low fluid? Or a more serious problem? Thanks!

first lesson with remotes, always change the battery first

To be clear, it wasn't the remote battery. It was the car's battery that needed changing. I have the optional second battery installed, which kept my car running. Primary battery was dead, though, which is why it wouldn't remember the remote's code.

If your on a pre 08 then 42 drivers side should be ok for switched, if you do not have a CD changer then 17 drivers side is unswitched.

Out of curiosity, what would 17 drivers side be if you did have a CD changer? Switched or unswitched? Thanks for contributing to the thread mudman2.

So, I've scoured this forum and Renntech, and have not successfully found a definitive thread showing which fuses are switched (ie, power on only when ignition is on). I'd like to install a V1, FM modulator for ipod, DVD player w/ rear headrest monitors, Nuvi GPS, and seat heaters.

On the driver's side, I've found that slot 51 (air quality sensor/tire pressure/diagnosis) has a 5A switched fuse. I'm using that for the GPS unit.

On the passenger side, slot 42 (I'm pretty sure that's the number, it's for the roof module/garage door opener) has a 5A switched fuse. I'm currently using this for the rear headrest monitor.

Has anyone found any other switched power sources on BOTH the driver and passenger sides? I'm still waiting for my indash player, seat heaters, and FM modulator w/ antenna adapters to arrive. I'd ideally like to put each on a separate switched fuse.

Related question: if I know the seat heaters pull 10A, what size switched fuse should I aim to find? 10A? 15A? What's the maximum it should be put on? I put the GPS and headrest monitor both on a 5A switched fuse, which I assume is plenty. Hopefully, this thread will help others installing these devices figure out which locations in the fuse panels are switched.

Well, with some more reading and help from rennlist, I fixed the problem!

Turns out I have the auxiliary battery option. So, I could start the car. BUT, the primary battery is what stores the remote code. The reason it was working sporadically was after a drive, the battery would be charged just enough for my remote to work. Sometimes, the battery would be strong enough to flash the lights, but NOT to unlock the doors. Then, it got to the point where my clock would reset randomly. I called the dealer, and asked about the cost of a battery. He asked if my AC took a while to turn on (which it does... maybe 30 seconds). The reason being that the auxiliary battery would take that long to resume control of the AC after the primary fails.

So, I bought a new primary battery (from Autozone, since the dealer was 30 minutes away and couldn't fit me in the schedule). Pricing was about the same ($120 vs $180 from dealer), but the Autozone battery came with an 8 year warranty (not sure if dealer part would). Dealer also said I had to charge the battery from them, which I thought was strange. Autozone battery was ready to go.

I had to order an M10 serrated 10mm tool to unbolt the seat to get to the primary battery. I found it locally, though, as well (if you can't tell, I'm impatient). If anyone needs this tool, let me know and I'll send you my extra one at my cost ($8). It's tough to find in stores, I had to go to a tool shop. It wasn't at Autozone or Advance Auto. I actually spent $8 in gas to get to the shop, too :)

Installed the battery, and now the remote works fine, AC works fine, etc. Next up... installing headrest monitors and an aftermarket seat heater kit for my wife. Thanks to everyone for their input, just thought I'd post in case someone comes across this problem in the future.

I don't know the precise dimensions. I do know that I have 7" in my cayenne TT!

FRank

That will work, thanks for the info! Screens are ordered :)

I've found a good deal on a 7" monitor w/ built-in speakers, but I'm away on business and not near my Cayenne. Will someone please measure and tell me whether 194x122x26 mm will fit (7.63 x 4.8 x 1.02 inches) in the 03 Cayenne S headrests? Thanks!

Anyone out there with a 2003 Cayenne? Is the 2004 the same size? Jeez, I didn't think the Cayenne forum received this little traffic :) Thanks!

I've found a good deal on a 7" monitor w/ built-in speakers, but I'm away on business and not near my Cayenne. Will someone please measure and tell me whether 194x122x26 mm will fit (7.63 x 4.8 x 1.02 inches) in the 03 Cayenne S headrests? Thanks!

Comfort comes back when the car is standstill ( P ) / ignition key out / ignition key in / ignition on.

Thanks! I thought I was going crazy... still might be.

hello,

I caught that you said it is a first model year, the '03 and '04 models have a notoriously bad remote/immobilizer system. It has had multiple updates to the remote and also to the control unit. It sounds as if you have a bad remote. The comfort settings are also a notorious problem for the first model years with multiple updates to the rear end control unit to fix these. It will require a good well equipped independent or dealership to remedy your problems. Even after the updates the remotes will still be a bit of a pain, Hence the total revision of the immobilizer system as of 2005 or 2006 models. I'm not sure if they are warrantied under some sort of campaign(recall) or not.

Good luck,

Porusheotoko

Thanks for the info, good to know. I can't believe they had so many problems. My 02 911tt worked better than my newer Cayenne. I called the dealer, and there is no campaign or recall for the remote/immobilizer. Fortunately, I have an extended bumper to bumper which should cover it. Thanks for the input!

P.S. - The comfort setting is back as a menu choice. Not sure where it went before, but it's back for now! I'm not even talking about the comfort settings being saved, I'm talking about the actual word "Comfort" in the menu. It disappeared and then randomly came back!

I'ts rather the remote which forget his roller code immediately IMHO, what doe's the second key ( remote )?

When I bought the car, I only got one key :( If the key forgets the rolling code, it wouldn't cause the alarm to flash though, right?

Looks like I need to get another remote control anyway. Now, I'm wondering if I should get it from the dealership or off of Ebay?

Well, it looks like another electrical gremlin has shown up. Now, I don't even see the "Comfort" option available in the Main Menu anymore. WTF? Good thing I have an extended bumper-to-bumper warranty on this thing. Now I know why they say not to buy the first model year...

I'ts rather the remote which forget his roller code immediately IMHO, what doe's the second key ( remote )?

When I bought the car, I only got one key :( If the key forgets the rolling code, it wouldn't cause the alarm to flash though, right?

Looks like I need to get another remote control anyway. Now, I'm wondering if I should get it from the dealership or off of Ebay?

Probably there are different issues, let the car check on fault codes and program.

Yep, looks like I can't avoid a stealership appointment. It's weird how it works sometimes, and not others. Not sure if it's coincidence, but if I put the key in the ignition, and take it out and immediately push the remote, it sometimes works. So, it could very well be the remote not syncing. Then again, the dealers said that if I get flashing and no locking, it's not the remote and probably is the alarm module not signaling the central locks. Who knows?

Thanks RFM. BTW, I was born in Belgium... not sure if I've ever met anyone from there, though! Moved to the US very early...

A new remote is all you need. The dealer can do the program.

That would be ideal. However, that couldn't be why the lock button doesn't work on the driver's door, could it? Or am I looking at two separate problems here? Thanks for the input!

So, after some reading I heard that putting the key in the ignition and holding the lock/unlock button for 2 seconds may cause it to relearn. I briefly turned it to on position to get power working (but didn't start car), and then held button for 2 seconds. Took key out, and tried to lock the doors. It worked! Then, I unlocked. It worked!

Tried to do it again... and nothing. I tried to get the key to relearn, but no luck. I can't get it to unlock/lock anymore. I periodically can get the flashers to blink, but nothing mechanically happens. Ideas?

I would start be changing the battery in the remote fob.

That's the first thing I did. It's very strange. When I push the lock button on the fob, I see the turn signals flash twice indicating it's locked. But, it isn't. If I press it again, it flashes once saying it's unlocked.

To make matters worse, the flashing doesn't occur every time I push the button. A range issue perhaps?

This is really frustrating. I bought the car, and I can't drive it anywhere and lock it.

Incidentally, if I'm using the lock button on the driver door, I can only unlock. The lock function doesn't work. On the passenger door, I can use the lock and unlock buttons. Both door buttons only function if I have the ignition on.

Anyone have any other ideas? Thanks!

P.S. - I checked the central locking fuses, all OK

I would start be changing the battery in the remote fob.

That's the first thing I did. It's very strange. When I push the lock button on the fob, I see the turn signals flash twice indicating it's locked. But, it isn't. If I press it again, it flashes once saying it's unlocked.

To make matters worse, the flashing doesn't occur every time I push the button. A range issue perhaps?

This is really frustrating. I bought the car, and I can't drive it anywhere and lock it.

Incidentally, if I'm using the lock button on the driver door, I can only unlock. The lock function doesn't work. On the passenger door, I can use the lock and unlock buttons. Both door buttons only function if I have the ignition on.

Anyone have any other ideas? Thanks!

P.S. - I checked the central locking fuses, all OK

I just bought a Cayenne S, and I can't lock it with the fob. I press the button quickly, and it flashes twice. Then, I pull on the handle to make sure it's locked. Not only does it open, but the lights start flashing wildly (but no horn sounds). I'm assuming I activated the alarm system.

I can lock it using the key, but would rather not have to do that everytime. Is there something wrong with the doorlocks perhaps?

My post from another board, based upon a member suggestion to test the sensor:

Well, 99firehawk... you may have indirectly helped the cause! I unplugged the two wires, and connected them. Nothing happened. I then connected the two male spade ends that are attached to the sensor. Nothing happened.

So, I plugged the wires back in. I turned the key. The car started right up. I have NO idea why. I didn't change anything at all.

What do you guys think happened? I'm happy the car appears to start right up, but I'd like to know why in case it happens again. Thanks for all of the help and suggestions!

Hello!

Have you tried to push the clutch pedal even harder? Sometimes I have to push the clutch real hard to get the start engine to run.

Yep. I even tried holding the clutch switch down manually. Both methods don't work...

TT, Carrera, and Boxster all use the same switch.

The switch itself is cheap - some folks choose to spend $200 and upgrade the switch and lock to the newer version (there is a TSB on this for all three models).

Loren,

Car still wouldn't start today... I did notice that when I turn the key to the start position, I do hear one "click", as if the ignition switch is trying to do something. The lights also go out on the dash when I hold it in the start position. Is it still possible to have something wrong with the ignition switch? The click is coming from near the key, which I assume means it isn't coming from the starter. Could this be an immobilizer issue, and if so, is there an easy way to check/reset it? My car remote unlocks and locks the car fine, does that mean the immobilizer is fine? Thanks!

TT, Carrera, and Boxster all use the same switch.

The switch itself is cheap - some folks choose to spend $200 and upgrade the switch and lock to the newer version (there is a TSB on this for all three models).

OK, great. I'll just pick up a switch on Ebay and see if that fixes the problem. I'll try and test it before then to see if the signal is getting through.

Thanks Loren!

If you are sure the clutch switch is working then you either have a bad ignition switch or the starter is bad. Usually starter don't just "not work" they sputter or are intermittent.

Any other weird electrical problems lately? Bad ignition switches sometimes cause other weird electrical problem.

I had a blown fuse in the radio and speakers that you helped me with, but I think that may have been becaues of the numerous jumpstarts I had (finally replaced battery, that did the trick... old battery didn't hold charge).

Other than that, everything has been normal.

Starter definitely isn't sputtering. It isn't doing anything at all, which sounds like it points to a bad switch. I read the articles from the 996 re: bad switches, but it looks like the 996 turbo uses a different switch. Is this an inexpensive part like it is on the 996? Thanks!