Jump to content

Welcome to RennTech.org Community, Guest

There are many great features available to you once you register at RennTech.org
You are free to view posts here, but you must log in to reply to existing posts, or to start your own new topic. Like most online communities, there are costs involved to maintain a site like this - so we encourage our members to donate. All donations go to the costs operating and maintaining this site. We prefer that guests take part in our community and we offer a lot in return to those willing to join our corner of the Porsche world. This site is 99 percent member supported (less than 1 percent comes from advertising) - so please consider an annual donation to keep this site running.

Here are some of the features available - once you register at RennTech.org

  • View Classified Ads
  • DIY Tutorials
  • Porsche TSB Listings (limited)
  • VIN Decoder
  • Special Offers
  • OBD II P-Codes
  • Paint Codes
  • Registry
  • Videos System
  • View Reviews
  • and get rid of this welcome message

It takes just a few minutes to register, and it's FREE

Contributing Members also get these additional benefits:
(you become a Contributing Member by donating money to the operation of this site)

  • No ads - advertisements are removed
  • Access the Contributors Only Forum
  • Contributing Members Only Downloads
  • Send attachments with PMs
  • All image/file storage limits are substantially increased for all Contributing Members
  • Option Codes Lookup
  • VIN Option Lookups (limited)

geoffbaltz

Contributing Members
 View Profile  See their activity

  • Posts

    61

  • Joined

  • Last visited

 Content Type 

Everything posted by geoffbaltz

  1. geoffbaltz
    I see you have the PSE mufflers...or are those the MKII muffler modification? I have a new set of the MKII mufflers to install on my 99. Would you say that the fender is easy enough to get off that it would facilitate a muffler install by taking off the fenders like you did? Is there a DIY for fender removal? I have never had the bumper or fenders off and don't know where all the nuts and bolts are. Those are MKII mufflers, I got them from a guy who had them modified and didn't like them and ended up doing something different. My car has Supersprint cat-bypass pipes as well. The car can be driven quitely around town if you drive smooth. When I get on it, it is loud. It has a real nice cup car sound at the track. I definitely gained HP. Next is the K&N intake.
  2. geoffbaltz
    You don't need to remove the bumper to do the mufflers. Jack the car up, remove the rear wheels, and you have enough room to remove the mufflers. I CHOSE to remove the bumper and mufflers to get to the plug tubes as I had more room to work and more light to see what I was doing. As I stated earlier, for the 30 minutes it takes to remove the bumper and the mufflers, I think it's a no brainer if you are doing the plugs/tubes.
  3. geoffbaltz
    You don't HAVE TO remove the mufflers. But, as I said for the 30 minutes it takes to remove the rear valance and the mufflers, it's totally worth it for the access. You don't have to remove the plugs but my car has 55K on the clock and it was time to replace them. Parts from pelican were about $130 including plugs ($65). You do need to lube up the o-rings to help them seal nicely. Hope this helps. -g
  4. geoffbaltz
    Wheel bearing???????
  5. geoffbaltz
    PCA is banning harnesses without race seats in DE starting Jan 1 2008 Here is a copy of the letter: February 5, 2007 Dear PCA National Staff and Region Presidents, The purpose of this email is to inform you of a change in the Driver’s Education National Standards regarding the use of safety harnesses which will become effective on Jan.1, 2008. The current “Equal Restraint” Standard states that both the student and instructor shall have the same restraint system. The problem with this Standard is that it does not define the complete system, in terms of the type of seat to be used with a 5 or 6 point harness. The new “Harness” Standard (See below) is written to compliment the “Equal Restraint” Standard and will go into effect January 1, 2008, but a region may adopt the standard earlier. The new standard states that if a harness system is installed, it must be used in conjunction with a seat with manufacturer supplied routing holes for the shoulder and anti-submarine belts. These routing holes insure that the belts will remain in place when needed. A one piece seat is recommended but not required for it may interfere with the operation of the OEM three piece belt required for street application. Thank you for your help in implementing this new standard.
  6. geoffbaltz
    I replaced all my spark plug tubes this weekend. 3 of the 6 were leaking. Here are some pics. Before: Leaky Tubes: After (I cleaned up the motor and sprayed my cans with high heat paint): What an easy job. I also put in new plugs. Of the 3 leaking tubes, one actually had oil pooled inside. I put all new tubes and seals in. They all popped right out with my thumb. I would also suggest taking the rear body panel off as it gives great access and only takes about 30 minutes to remove it and the mufflers. The passenger side of the motor requires the muffler mount to come off as it is off set and you can't get to one of the tubes with it on. The driver's side of the motor does not require removing the muffler mount since it sits right over the center cylinder and gives a cavity to work your tools in. -g
  7. geoffbaltz
    I just ordered a simulator from here: http://www.adaptiveperformance.com/ $11.00 for 2 including shipping. I'll let you all know how it goes.
  8. geoffbaltz
    I put the SuperSprint Cat Bypass pipes on my '00 C2. Totally satisfied with the setup but I get a CEL P0420 and P0430. I know that these mean the catalyst is not doing it's job - obviously, since they are gone. I started doing some checking and found this post from our V-Dub friends: http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=1366095 Very interesting stuff. It looks like using the arrestors may work but we don't have enough room to extend the O2 sensors like they can. One dude brings up a good point - what about putting diodes on the O2 harnesses to always show the correct voltage so the computer thinks the cat is working. I would think that this would not effect the engine management since the O2 sensors before the cats talk to the computer and the O2 sensors after the cats are there to keep us honest. What is the right voltage? Is there info on this in the 996 repair manual? Thoughts? Ideas? Comments? -g
  9. geoffbaltz
    One more thing....no CEL. I cleared my P1128 and P1130 codes with my Durametric after install and it hasn't come back on yet. (My car tends to throw those codes periodically)
  10. geoffbaltz
    WOW!! I ordered the cat bypass pipes almost 2 months ago. Showed up Friday at the front door. I had been looking and researching. I had a Fabspeed 3" downpipe and cat bypass on my 951 track car for years and loved it. I also had a Remus setup from Austria on one of my old Audis and and loved the quality. I have always been interested in the Supersprint stuff and have always heard good things so I decided to go that route this time. The quality is amazing. The welds are clean and the mouting hardware was top quality. I started with the bypass pipes and will add the headers next. So right now, I have stock mufflers and stock headers with the Supersprint bypass pipes and the sound is really nice. However, I have a very tiny resonance at about 2K RPM when decelerating. I actually think it may be a vibration rather than a resonance and I bet it's coming from the "sleeve" brackets at the muffler connection. I'll tighten those up some more and see if it goes away. If it doesn't, I won't be too upset since it is barely noticeable. I bought some hacked stock mufflers with the PSE-type connection pipe last week and have not recieved those yet. I'm thinking the fake PSE's with the bypass pipes will have a good sound for me. We will see, if I don't like the fake PSE mufflers, I'll do something else. I picked them up used for almost nothing.
  11. geoffbaltz
    The flywheels are all 8 bolt, except for the GT3. PET shows the same DMF part number for all 98-04 996 engines: 996.114.012.03. It also shows a qty of 8 bolts needed for all 98-04. The '04 GT3 shows qty of 9 bolts needed and a DMF pn of 996.114.012.50. If the Porsche DMF is the same for all 98-04 normally-aspirated 3.4 and 3.6 cars, why would the fidanza unit only be for 3.6 cars? Doesn't make much sense to me. The clutch plates are the same, but the pressure plate and the release bearing are different from '02 on. Would this be the reason? But the flywheel is the same! :huh:
  12. geoffbaltz
    Loren- I noticed that. I'm better off going with an aftermarket flywheel and clutch. It's probably less expensive as well. I'm thinking a Fidanza aluminum flywheel (12.5lbs) and a Spec kevlar clutch.
  13. geoffbaltz
    OK, flywheels are the same from 98-04. PN: 996.114.012.03 The '04 DMF on the GT3 is PN: 996.114.012.50 There is also a single flywheel listed for the '04 GT3 with a 964 pn (964.102.239.31). This appears to be the Euro RS style flywheel that comes on the factory race cars/GT3 Cup Cars. After checking specs, the RS flywheel is only 11 lbs. This leads me to another question, are there any required parts to go from DMF to SMF? Ray- I wouldn't be interested in the DMF but I may be interested in the GT3 clutch assy.
  14. geoffbaltz
    I'm going to put in a new clutch and want to replace the flywheel. Is there an advantage to going to a GT3 or RSR flywheel and will it fit? Should I just go with an aluminum one like the Firdanza? Has anyone had any experience with non-oem flywheels? I believe the flywheels are the same for the 3.4 and 3.6 motors as well. '00 C2 3.4
  15. geoffbaltz
    Thanks! :-)
  16. geoffbaltz
    Has anyone bought the "special tool" for the oil filter cover? If so, is there somewhere to get it for a good price? I am anal about tourque specs and would like to have it so I can properly tourque down the cover when changing the oil.
  17. geoffbaltz
    GOB- I was at my dealer in St. Louis and asked one of the service guys about the ATF thing. He said, "WHAT?!!". They said that they never heard of anyone ever doing that and went on to reiterate that you'll probably screw up the fuel system. You could probably do the install yourself and then have the dealer calibrate it for you to save some cash.
  18. geoffbaltz
    The ATE blue or yellow is great fluid and a great afternoon project. I would suggest getting a Motive Power bleeder to make the job a piece of cake. http://www.motiveproducts.com/
  19. geoffbaltz
    It took 3 quarts. Everything I read is 3 to 4 quarts. I could probably use another 1/4 of a quart and will top it off when I get around to ordering some from summit racing or jegs. You really just fill it to the bottom of the check/fill plug in the transaxle. The amount it takes to do this really depends on how well you drain the transaxle. The ATF is for automatic transmissions.
  20. geoffbaltz
    I did the Schnell in my 00 C2 and am really pleased. I picked it up on eBay for $159.
  21. geoffbaltz
    Dude, buy a new fuel pump. A new fuel system is WAY more expensive than a new fuel pump. Besides, if the pump is going, you are probably having pressure problems as well. Glad to hear you found it!
  22. geoffbaltz
    I almost forgot..... Here is what I did to my finger while breaking the fill bolt on the transaxle. It might be broken, but I saved some $$$ by not having the dealer do all that. Don't we all love wrenching on our cars!?
  23. geoffbaltz
    Check power steering fluid level. Loren - Is there an emissions canister up there?
  24. geoffbaltz
    Is it when the car is moving or stationary, or both?
  25. geoffbaltz
    The 996 got fresh fluids this weekend. ATE Blue brake fluid, Royal Purple 75W90 transaxle fluid, and 9 fresh quarts of Mobil 1 15W50. The Royal Purple is AWESOME. I have used Redline and Mobil 1 in my track car in the past and had this Royal Purple laying around. I was going to use it next in my 951 but sold the car recently. The gearbox is smooth as ice. Redline was close and Mobil 1 was not that great, but the RP is amazing. I had 2 5qt jugs of 15W50 left from my 951 track car left so I used it. I don't think it will be that big of a deal this time around. Normally, I would go with 0W30 or 0W40. Nothing like a little vasalene in the sump for the winter :-) !
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.