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geoffbaltz

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About geoffbaltz

  • Birthday February 25

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male

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  • From
    St. Louis
  • Porsche Club
    PCA (Porsche Club of America)
  • Present cars
    16 Macan Turbo
    02 Boxster S
  • Former cars
    16 981
    88 951
    04 Cayenne TT
    00 996 C2
    08 Cayenne
    89 944 2.7
    04 Cayenne
    86 951

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  1. @JFP in PA Thanks for the response. I'll double check the voltage on terminal 6 but it looks like I will be searching for buddy with a PIWIS.
  2. So, these error codes would represent the need to program the ABS control module? And I am correct that is what is going on here?
  3. 2002 Boxster S I’ve been building for the track. Previous owner swapped the ECU and the immobilizer from another car with a matching key. Engine starts no problem. So the new ECU and alarm is working just fine. However, I have codes for ABS and PSM. Fuse E9 is good. Does anyone know where the relay is that the Porsche repair manual mentions in troubleshooting the error codes? ABS/PSM 5.7 Error Codes: P4276 Valve supply voltage Instrument Cluster K21 Error Code: 9111 PSM/ABS control unit I’ve been doing a lot of research on the web about new ABS control modules. And them needing to be programmed to the ECU to match the VIN. Is this correct? And if so, can that be done within the Durametric?
  4. You can disconnect the airbag with no problems. Just a modular connector. The airbag warning light will be on as well at the idiot "!" light. I did the same thing in my track car.
  5. Beltronics, Escort, Valentine are all quality and detect radar/laser comparably. I have a Beltronics but Valentine holds patent on the arrow thing and that is really nice.
  6. Definitely a temp fix. I have a DE this weekend and thought I could get it done tomorrow before I leave Friday. It started at Mid-Ohio a couple of months back and I should have replaced the tank between then and now. Been busy with kids, work, life, etc. So, do I just leave it for the weekend or play with some JB Weld or 2 part epoxy?
  7. maniac I got the entire setup from Dave Lindsey at Lindsey Racing. You have to ask for the sprung clutch as you have to use the solid one with the standard flywheel. I would never go to this setup for the street. There really isn't any reason to do it. The noise from the gear box sucks and the engagement with the clutch and the lwfw is not an easy thing to get used to and I would never want to drive around town with this setup. For the track, I know I'll like it alot. I've had a chance to put about 200 miles on the car after the install on some nice roads. I definitely feel a difference in power and the motor does seem to spin up a bit quicker. I had a strange noise under heavy load in 1st and 2nd gear and a bit of a shudder initially but that has gone away. If you read earlier, I was almost freaking out about it. It was probably the clutch plate working into the new flywheel surface and I was getting used to the engagement. I should have listened to Orient Express and not worried about it. We have our first DE of the season this weekend so it's going to get a workout Saturday and Sunday. -Geoff
  8. Jackstands. You will need a transmission jack and you will need to get the rear of the car pretty high off the ground. I put the front tires on ramps and then jack up the rear so the incline is minimal.
  9. Ok, I did notice something. I just put the rear of the car on ramps. I then supported the motor to pull one of the mounts to look at it. I noticed that there is no play/travel in the motor when putting the jack under it. I SWEAR that there was always a few inches of play before the motor started to lift the car.
  10. Thanks for the info. I am fine with the shudder if it's normal. I only track the car so I don't have to live with it in traffic. It just seems a bit excessive compared to other cars I've driven. One of which is a Cayman S Turbo (yes, a turbo from TPC) with the same flywheel and a different clutch. Engagement is smooth and there is no shudder.
  11. OK, so maybe I am crazy. How about some answers to the motor mount questions..... So I can sleep at night and prove that I'm crazy, I may just replace them anyway.
  12. Loren, I totally agree and I do have some experience with this type of setup. Hopefully I'm paranoid but I think I may have a problem. Do the motor mounts always leak when bad? And how stiff are they supposed to be? Can you move the bolt around with your hands when removed?
  13. Hello everyone. Hope you're all doing well. I finally did the clutch and flywheel replacement. I went with the AASCO LWFW and the Spec Stage 1 Clutch with Spring Center. I'm glad I did it since the old clutch was down to the rivots on the flywheel side. I also left the RMS alone as it was nice and clean in there and I'm a firm believer in the "if it works don't f%#* with it" theory. The job itself was pretty easy as a clutch and flywheel job goes. I've done several on 944's and the 996 is a piece of cake. I'm a bit concerned as I have a moderate shudder when starting in 1st gear and down shifting under load. I'm also getting a noticeable vibration/noise under 75% load in 1st and 2nd gear. I know it's not the noise from going to new flywheel as I was prepared for that (for all the people that ask if you can really hear the chatter when using a LWFW, yes, you can hear it). I think I may have bad motor mounts and now that the clutch hooks up stronger, the worn mounts are showing. I've been under the car and double checked everything and there is no evidence of missing anything on the clutch/flywheel job. I always torque everything to spec and mark every bolt on reassembly. The mounts aren't leaking but I don't think that is always the case. I removed the driver's side mount and looked at it and it does have a date stamp of '99 on it so they are probably original. The car is a 2000 C2 w/74K miles on the clock. Any thoughts or help?
  14. Maurice, Thanks for the info and I'll check out the RMS updates. James, I did find that site after I posted. I does look pretty straight forward. What I find interesting is that my car has 73K miles on it, the RMS is original and there is no leaking (and not just by looking at the floor, I've been under the car many times), and the clutch is original. Do I even mess with the seal, the IMS bolts and the crankcase bolts? I do have a testy synchro when downshifting to 2nd gear on the track. Maybe I should mess with that instead?
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