4agdtym

I have trouble with Pedro's web page. My browser gets bogged down and scrolling just sends the computer into a tizzy!

I like the idea of the sport mufler. A friend the factory option on his Carrerra. He has a switch that controls valves to turn it on and off. Is there a way to install the valves on this system? Could we use the same part/valve that the Carerra uses?

Unless you are really happy with the company for other reasons ... get a new company. You might try calling again and hope you get a different service rep who isn't so rigid or asking for a supervisor.

I'd like to have my boxster realigned to settings that are more suited to autocross and spirited driving. I believe the factory settings have too much understeer for this type of driving. Anyone worked this out? What settings should I suggest to the alignment shop?

Thanks.

I have my V-1 mounted between the seats on an alluminum bracket that I made. The bracket attaches with velcro straps around the roll bar padding. The unit attaches to the bracket with velcro and is just high enough to see forward and back. I can barely see the unit in my rearview mirror. The remote display is also attached with velcro on the steering column. I can set the volume with my right hand and hear the signal tones in my reight ear. I have hardwired the system, though I can and do unplug the V-1 from its mount, and place it in a protective case (an old cut-off gym sock) locked in the center console, when parked. I love my system. It hasn't failed me in nearly 4 years of use. And I do use it regularly. B)

I had an alignment recently and the tech said the right rear wheel is at its maximum adjust and still is .3 degrees out of spec. He suggested the toe adjust arm needs to be replaced. I'm sceptical, but ordered and recieved the part. Upon exam, it appears the current arm is too long (the concentric is at its maximum and the wheel still needs to rotate further). The car has been aligned (apparently) without difficulty about a year ago - different shop, and I'm not aware of hitting anything hard enough to have bent any part of the arm.

Any tips or potential difficulties in replacing the arm? Any other thoughts?

Thanks,

David

Good day porschephiles!

I just got a second set of wheels powdercoated black and am now thinking about lug bolts. I am struggling with the idea that I may pay more for bolts than I paid for the powdercoating. And, If I want the bolts coated in black, too - well, then more $....

I see several options for bolts on EBay but wonder - and would tend to avoid the single piece variety - the aluminum washers are important, I'm pretty sure.

Any ideas? I've also thought about having the bolts powdercoated to match the speed yellow paint on the car, but wonder if that might be too much?

David

Hi,

I need to get the "nutsert" that secures the amplifier bracket on my 2001 986. It is a rubber cycindar with a brass nut inside that compressed when tightened - like so many other fasteners on a Porsche. I have attached a photo to assist in identifying which part I need.

Thanks,

David

Ouch! You have my sympathies. I just did 60k maintenance on my 2001. Everything went smoothly.

Maybe you can get the dealer to loosen the drain plug (until it is only snug), but not remove it. Then you could remove it at home and continue the work.

Good luck.

I'm planning to replace oil, air and fuel filters this weekend (along with oil change). I haven't done the fuel filter before. Any issues or tricks to be aware of?

Also - what is the correct torque for the oil filter housing and the oil drain plug?

Thanks,

David

:renntech:

I understand the concern about use of clay abrasives - especially the frequent use.

:soapbox:

However, there is a test, other than the appearance of overspray, to determine the condition of the paint's surface and whether or not clay should be considered. The finger tip is not sensative enough to feel a slightly rough surface on the paint. However, if you put your finger tip into a lightweight sandwhich bag or cover it with other similar light weight plastic, and then GENTLY move your finger over the surface of the paint, you may notice a difference. If you don't feel a difference, there is no need to use clay. If you do, you may conisder using the clay as indicated, with lots of lubrication - usually a good detail spray.

Also, there are different "grits" of clay. You should consider using the finest grit available for your Porsche - unless you have very old and poorly maintained paint which is very rough. And, of course, if the clay gets contaminated - especially if you drop it - toss it and get another piece. Use a piece of window glass (i.e., the windshield) to flatten the clay, developing a smooth flat surface, prior to putting it on your lubricated paint.

Once the paint is cleaned and properly cared for, it is unlikely that you will need to consider using clay for a long time.

OK. I'm done. ;)

I take mine out and clean it periodically with electronic parts cleaner - a few times in the past two years. I don't wait until I get CEL to do so. Seems to make minor improvement in throttle response after it is cleaned. I'd be curious about cost and source of a reliable aftermarket spare. Also curious about experience others are having, and what type of intake/filter is being used. I have read several concerns about use of oil soaked filter media causing contamination of MAF sensor if the filter is not properly oiled. I use a stock intake system that has been de-snorked.

Our club had a detail clinic a couple weeks ago. Adam brought a couple techs and his products. They demonstrated on several cars of all ages (the oldest was a 356 with original paint), some with special problems. Everyone was very impressed with the products. Check them out at:

http://www.adamspolishes.com/

At a minimum, you should consider using a clay bar as part of the process after washing the car. You will also likely want to use an orbital polisher with with a high grade very fine polish. You'd be surprised what a difference the clay bar alone will make. Best of luck...

Have you checked your door striker latch to make sure it is not mis-aligned and moving the door position when closing?

Not specifically. The door seems to open and close easily and smoothly. Is there some technique to check the alignment?

Since it didn't occur with the passenger door, and it gets used so much less often, I found it easy to believe that the rattle was connected to the latch system and that it was wearing more over time, thus the increased frequency in the driver door.

Did you have a look at the TSBs? There are couple related to door rattles.

Loren,

Yes I did review TSBs. I tried the silicone spray. No results. I may not have properly done the other suggestions, but sure tried. Another place even suggested that it was a tensioning cable in the top that rattled when the top is down. Did the fix suggested by that source, too, with no results. I sort of gave up until I get around to trying the silver loop rotation.

Thanks,

David

I've had the same problem, searched using the same methods. I did find a post somehwere suggesting that the rattle is related to the lock mechanism. The poster suggested that the silver loop bolted to the body, which the latch grabs ahold of, wears and allows the rattle we hear. The poster suggested that the loop be removed, rotated 180 degrees and reinstalled. I haven't yet gotten the star tool to remove the bolts to do this. The rattle in my car has gotten somewhat worse over the past year, which seems to confirm the theory. If you try the suggested fix, let us know...

Looks Great! Would love to hear a sound clip.

Did you think about taking out the secondary cats?

I was surprised to find the change in steering response after changing to a different brand of tire - which I changed about 6k miles before the alignment was done. I didn't notice it right away. I think I noticed the improvment in traction immediately and it took me a while to increase my speed through corners to the point that I began to notice the different balance.

I did find that tire pressure made a difference with the prior tires and just forgot to play with that on the Falkens. I've been running pretty consistently 29/36 front/rear pressures. Is it possile that the Falkens want a different rear tire pressure to stick better? Which way should I adjust the pressure to increase its stickiness?

:eek: (just checked the tire presure - I have 32 in the rear. Somehow I have read 36 when it says 32. I will change pressure this evening and see what happens). Oh Yeah - I don't have traction control.

The alignment was done by a shop recommended by my mechanic (a former zone autox champ). The alignment tech (an older gentleman) did mention that he doesn't see Porsche often. He did seem to know what he was talking about on the car, but when he didnt know where to find the tool kit - where I keep the wheel lock - I was a bit concerned. I don't konw what settings he used. I'll have to ask him. Sorry for being so specific, but what is "slight" toe-in?

Thanks,

David

It's nearly time for a new set of rear tires. I am currently running Falken Azenis AT615

225/40 R18 front

265/35 R18 rear

As far as I know (I'm the second owner) the suspension is stock 2001 986. The car has about 61 thousand miles.

I'm noticing some oversteer or at least a tendency toward it. My first tires were the Dunlop sport 9090. I went threw two sets. I was essentially unable to get oversteer without making major mistakes - she really wanted to understeer with those tires. The Falkens are nearly impossible to understeer - they are so much sticker!

I'm wondering what my options are to address the oversteer - to improve the balance. I feel safer (more control) with understeer than with oversteer.

I'm thinking about wider rubber on the rear...How wide can my rims handle before I'd need a wider rim (I believe they are the 9.5" model).

I just had the car aligned. I notice that the steering feels "lighter" - it is easier to turn. The car doesn't have the same intense desire to go straight that it had before the alignment. The alignment tech said that one rear wheel was way out of camber, but didn't say much about how the other wheels were before his adjustments - and I forgot to ask him. He did say he was surprised to see how evenly the tires were wearing, side to side and across the tread (I think that is a good thing?)

I'd appreciate any thoughts about my options.

Thanks,

David

I asked a weapon's engineer (and Porsche owner) this question and got an answer indicating the relationship was not linear.

I once put 2 gallons of 102 mixed the rest of the way with 91. My unscientific observation was a slight improvment in mpg and a slight decrease in operating temp. I haven't done it again. I paid $7.50 for each gallon of the 102. Not a good trade off.

I would be interested in other options for improving octane if it provided a worthwhile and realistic performance increase.

I have a sound file recorded as well if you are interested: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NWysMofc5R4...ted&search=

Nice clip. Why is there so much smoke? Was the engined already warm or still cold?

David,

Many thanks for the advice. I will try to carefully pry off the A/C and/or the cupholder console panels, after building up some courage. I am very wary of breaking any of that cheap plastic on the dash. I couldn't live with that. So easy does it, I guess.

The various after-market cup holders are very intriguing, but the good ones are pretty expensive.

Thanks again.

Mike

I think the biggest concern on this plastic stuff is how easily it is scratched or scuffed. Use a soft plastic pry tool with a soft cloth (old t shirt) to protect surfaces. It isn't as hard as it appears.

David

Every time I wash my car I marvel at how much I dislike the front bumper air intakes for the two radiators. They are discolored and ugly. Does anyone make an shiny/happy replacement that still allows for proper cooling?

Not long ago, I felt the same way about the discoloration. I removed the bumper cover to clean the radiators. While there, I removed and cleaned all the black plastic parts including wheel well liners. I then painted them with Krylon. Now they look very good. Still don't like the shape too much - I'd like to get a bumper cover like one of the GT models.

There are options.

I tried a word search for this issue but found nothing directly applicable. So I apologize if I have missed a prior post for this issue.

The last time I pushed the dual-slot, single arm cup holder back into the dashboard in my 2003 Boxster, it gave me a moderate level of resistance. Never happened before and I should have heeded this warning, but I continued to push it all the way back in. Now it is stuck. I tried removing the radio to gain access to it (super easy with those two removal clip tools--sweet!), but obviously the A/C display unit is between the radio hole and the cup holder slot. I am definitely not flexible enough to reach around it. Not sure anyone really could!

Is there an easy way to remove the A/C control unit, just enough to gain access to my stuck cup holder from the back side? I don't want to simply pry it out with a screwdriver or something because the plastic fascia on the cupholder is so very flimsy that it will surely break off if I were to tug at it. I also don't want to force or break the cupholder arm or pivoting mechanisms, as I actually find the cupholder quite serviceable, if indeed very flimsy.

Any advice or a pertinent web link would be greatly appreciated. Thanks.

The trim around the a/c unit is only held in with clips. If you gently pry on each side - a bit at a time, it will release and come off. There are compression clips near each corner. Once that trim is off, there are four screws that release the a/c control unit.

The trim for the cup holder is essentially the same - held in by four clips and four screws. You don't need to remove the a/c unit to get the cup holder, though it might be easier to remove the a/c trim - since you have already removed the radio. Once the a/c trim is off, you are likely to be able to remove the cupholder trim much easier.

Hope this helps.

David

There have been many discussion about timing the frequency of oil changes - depends on your preference related to how hard you drive. I have changed mine at 10k mile intervals. I just changed it two weeks ago. First time I did t myself.

I put the car on jack stands. Everything was readily visible and easily accessible. I was surprised at how fast and the force with which the oil came out, once the plug was removed. I was using one of the "jerry" style plastic cans with the catch tray on the side. It didn't work. I ended up with a lot of oil on the floor. Next time I will get a bucket that holds enough oil.

directions for DIY are here: https://www.renntech.org/forums/index.php?s...p;hl=oil+change

I bought the 0-40 at Kragen for about $6 a quart.

I ordered the filter kit from Sunset - link above at "Porsche Parts at Dealer Cost"

The aluminium seal for the drain plug was the wrong size. Make sure to check that.

Cleaning up the spilled oil wasn't too bad with the hlep of 40 lbs of cat litter.

I'll do a clean job next time. ;)

Good luck,

David

Try Vinylex made by Lexol...works wonders for me. It also provides UV protection.

OK. You made me go out and look - now that I'm not in the office I could look in the garage and see what I used. I thought it ws the lexol product, but ddn't want to cast dispersions without being sure.

It was vinylex. Too shiny. However, Also noted that I have some very small water marks on the windshield that are acting like a matrix of tiny mirrors to reflect light. I have another product that has very fine polish for glass. It should remove the water marks and reduce the glare.

Oh Boy - I get to polish the car... :jump: