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Everything posted by 4agdtym

  1. I'd like red. Do you have a source for the various cluster bulbs? I might just do them once I figure out if the new cluster will help.
  2. If one were to change the color of the bulb, will the color of the display change?
  3. Is the pill receiver unique to the ECU like the alarm module or are they all the same for similar models?
  4. I managed to get an email response from the engine builder who says that the engine was built with the stock 3.2 cams and that the note on the invoice was part of a list that describes the process for either a Boxster or a Carrera. So, now I'm looking for a way to get the stock map flashed into the ECU.
  5. I looked at the decoder. Nothing significant that I could tell. Seat heaters, leather seats, storage unit in console, turbo look wheels, radio type,cruise control, CD storage. It didn't list OBC. I couldn't find a couple, though - C02 or 239 I looked at the engine and the serial number was not readable. I've seen photos of them on other engines and this was one had a nearly smooth surface. It looked like there may be some numbers made with a pin punch (rather than the usual number punch), but the lighting and difficulty getting under there made it unreadable. I may try to get it on a lift where I can move around easier. I tried putting some grease pencil on the surface and then carefully wiping off the excess to leave some in the dots - still couldn't read it. Is the number on the option sheet starting with M96 the engine serial number? M9621-672 or part of it? I ordered the cluster from DC - and will try that when it arrives.
  6. I've gotten a photo of the options sticker from the '02 donor hood. I can't remember how to post a photo.
  7. If the MAF is beyond cleaning, it would already have thrown a code and likely a CEL. You can clean the MAFwith electronic parts cleaner or MAF cleaner. Other cleaners/solvents sometimes have lubricants that will only make it worse. I don't know what disconnecting it will do - if it is the problem, then disconnecting won't tell you anything. I've been told that the MAF wears out slowly over time. Cleaning it can prolong he life but not bring it back to new-like functioning. I have been cleaning mine a few times a year since 2006 but I think it is about worn out. Having a code reader is a good idea and the MAF codes can typically be cleared with a basic reader. You may have pendig codes that knowing about would help you with diagnostics but not yet causing a CEL.
  8. What you describe is LSD. As you noted earlier, maybe it was installed by a previous owner.
  9. With both wheels off the ground, typically, when you rotate one wheel by hand, the other rotates in the opposite direction. It is possible for someone to keep one wheel from rotating and the other can be rotated by hand in either direction - the person rotating the wheel will feel the "drag". I think it is just the friction in the diff gears that makes this happen. Even with a LSD, this can happen until the difference in rotational speed between the two wheels meets the point where the diff clutches are engaged - then both wheels will rotate in the same direction.
  10. Also wondering if I should have used the 2.7 engine wiring harness on the 3.2. I left the harness on the 3.2 and all the connections fit and there were no unused plugs. I imagine that the pin placement could be different in the ECU connections, though. I did change the fuel rail to the '01 style with pressure regulator on the rail and the fuel return line in place. I used the injectors that came with the 3.2 after seeing that the injector part number is the same for both engines. Haven't had a chance to look at the engine serial number yet.
  11. How long has the car been making the noise? How long have you owned the car? Is the noise heard only when going over bumps? Does it change with different height of bump? At what speeds or does speed make a difference? Does it change if you coast/idle over a bump with the car in neutral? Does it change if you're turning while going over the bump? Does it matter which wheel hits the bump, and if so which wheel makes it better or worse? I'm not sure what "wobbly noise" sounds like. Can you describe it differently? grinding, rubbing, rattling, drumming, scraping, high or low pitch, etc. What year/model is your car? Have you made any modifications?
  12. Both cars have manual transmission. I do understand that there are variations in cluster. I didn't realize I had wiring diagram that was printed before the cars were built until after I'd checked all pins. I'm using the chasis wiring harness that was in the 2001 - I didn't want to dismantel a perfectly good chasis to change a wiring harness - maybe I should have considered that. I kept the engine harness with the 2002 (they looked the same upon visual inspection, though I realize that individual wires could be located at different pins) when I put it into the 2001 chasis. All the connectors plugged right in. The ECU, ignition, and central locking unit all came from the 2002. I am told by the previous owner that they all worked together without problem. Unfortunately, he sold the cluster, along with some other unrelated parts, before I bought the rest of the crashed car. If the wiring harnesses are the same for each model year - are they? - then I should be able to identify which cluster I need by looking at the engine serial number? or would it be better to use the numbers off the ECU or central locking unit? Depending on which cluster I need, It might be cheaper to flash the ECU as long as that is possible. I talked with one company that sells ECU software and they wanted the 3.2 ECU. Is it possile/realistic to reflash the 2001 2.7 ECU for the 2002 engine? Thanks
  13. 2001 2.7 5-speed part number? 2002 3.2 6-speed part number? Thank you.
  14. I have reviewed the wiring diagrams for the two model years and compared what I think are pin numbers for each connector in the DME, the central locking unit and the instument cluster. All the pins appear to be the same. I'm no electrical engineer and I may be reading this very wrong. However, I'm reading each diagram the same, e.g., looking at the diagram for the instrument cluster, "B26 Turn Signal Left" would indicate that pin B26 was the wire for the left turn indicator in the instrument cluster. It reads the same on each of the two model year diagrams. And so it is with each of the diagrams I reviewed for each area in each model year. Any thoughts? Hints? Maybe voltages or resistence is different for sending units? Maybe the diagrams are only representative and not an indication of how the cars were actually built? I'm reading the diagrams in the Porsche Technical Manual for the Boxster, group 9, circuit diagrams, Part 2 (from '00 model) printed October 1999. Because they were printed before the cars were actually built, I guess they could have made changes after the printing? Anyone have a copy printed at a later date - after the cars were actually built? Thanks again for your help with this.
  15. OK. ECU changed, immobilizer changed, ignition parts changed and the "pill" installed in the key. Now it starts and runs well. Oil level indicator blinks, doesn't provide oil level and then times out. Fuel level reads empty, red low fuel indicator light flashes non-stop, high beam indicator doesn't light, windscreen washer fluid low indicator light is on, airbag light isn't on and I had the driver's seat out with battery connected - I think it should be on. What other electrical items might not be working correctly? Are these things that can be fixed with programming or do I have to change sending units? Hmmm. The engine runs fast and smooth. Trade offs are part of life. Thanks for the help.
  16. What does the immobilizer look like? I'll go under there this eve. Thank you.
  17. I thought the immobilizer was the box on the ignition assembly. It's under the seat? Since the donor car was an '02 ... and the receiving car is an '01, what problems will occur if I change all those parts? How do I check the pinouts? The engine wiring harness from the '02 stayed with the engine and all the connectors fit neatly in the '01.
  18. I used the whole ignition assembly and key from the donor car.
  19. I recently transplanted a 2002 3.2 into my 2001 2.7 car. I am unable to get the car to start with the donor car's ECU - lights come on in dash but no power to the starter. I have it running poorly on the 2.7 ECU - I get a P0102 MAF code with periodic misfire codes.I installed the donor ignition immobilizer with the donor ECU but still didn't get power to the starter.What am I missing?
  20. Your old rotors were no longer flat - even if smooth. The rotors and pads wear together over time and have the same (mirror image) shape. The new rotors are flat. The old pads are not. Try the sandpaper trick mentioned above. Failure to do that will result in poor braking until the pads and rotors are the same shape and may cause the system to wear out more quickly.
  21. In your case, I'd replace with stock Porsche pads. Check the rotor thickness as these rotors typically cannot be resurfaced if there is much wear or significant grooving. If your rotors are at or near minimum thickness you might want to replace them while you're there. Extra $ but an important part of the car not worth puching limits with. Also, replace the brake fluid if it hasn't been done in the past 18 months. It is a rather simple proceedure and well worth it - only $12 to $15 a liter for ATE blue or gold fluid. I alternate colors at each succesive change so that I can tell when the fluid in the line is new. Porsche recommends every two years. My friends who track their cars do it at least once a year depending on how often they are on the track.
  22. Your car is not the e-gas model. You have a throttle cable from the pedal to the throttle body. You'll need to check the cable that is in the car to make sure it hasn't been damaged as a result of pushing hard on the pedal. I haven't replaced one of these so can't tell you any specifics about the process. Do a you tube search - maybe someone has a video posted.
  23. The bottom arrow in your photo is pointing to the lift point used at the factory for moving the engine/trans around. Nothing to worry about. The top arrow appears to be pointing to the location of the butterfly which balances intake air pressures. Under the tube is a vacuum control that actuates the butterly. What you think is a plug is likley the cover over the butterfly's shaft. Probably nothing to worry about there, either.
  24. Keep looking. Be patient. Those are priced too high, have too many miles. Figure you will change IMS bearing at some point on any pre '05 that hasn't had it already changed. Just did my IMS bearing and it wasn't difficult, just took time. My '02 S engine had dual row bearing - imagine that. The tables aren't always correct. Good luck in your search.
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