4agdtym

Right the leather dash should not be shiny. Take some leather cleaner and sponge it clean. Make sure the finish is nice and flat when you are finished. Then take some leather conditioner and rub that in. After 10 or so min take a clean dry cloth (Lint free) and wipe it all down. It will look better than new.

As far as the chemicals....

Sonus is great ($22 for the kit) http://www.autopia-carcare.com/

Lexol is sold at dealerships www.lexol.com

Just some to get you started.

:oops: Don't have the leather dash - afraid that it would take the harsh summer heat in the Central Valley of CA poorly.

I have used Lexol on the seats and other leather with good results. :cheers:

Thanks.

Yeah, Just use a dry rag to soak up the armor all.

Didn't use that product. It's not THAT shiny... B)

Just got out of the car. The reflection off the black vinyl dash is so bright in the windshield that it walks the line of being unsafe.

Is there a product that will take care of the dash without being so shiny? :lightbulb:

Thanks

In short, if I take the car to a mechanic at this point, are they going to read the computer and get nothing out of it (except my $50)?

I have heard that you can go to your local auto parts house (kragen, autozone, etc) and borrow their code reader if they think you'll buy needed parts from them. That will at least save the money if there are no codes.

David

Some color of red is the best color for night use. Dark-room red. It doesn't mess with your eyes. My prior ride was an Acura RSX type S. It had a completely red-lit interior at night. It was very nice, and easy on the eyes.

Went to Wal-Mart last week to get a quart. They didn't have any 0-40. My local mechanic says he can't get it. Where are you finding it?

In the photo below, is the knob on the left of the radio used for controlling the wiper delay?

Was that an origianl part? Is it still available? Part #?

A CDR-???

And do you have an amp?

You would need to know... :lightbulb:

Friend's car. I'll ask and getback...

A friend has an '02 boxster. Recently he did some work and disconnected the battery. After reconnecting and entering the radio code (or what he thought was the code) he gets a "wait" message. After reboot (disconnecting the battery), same thing. :cursing:

When I have entered my code incorrectly, I just get the "code" message. This seems to be something else.

What's up?

David

I had an estimate from the dealer for about $1200 including the 2 year brake fluid flush. I went to a local shop that specializes in German cars and had it all done for under $500 - the same list of work.

The only real advantage to using the dealer (especially if you also bought the car from that dealer) is in the event that there is some catastrophic issue just after the warrenty runs out. I've heard that sometimes, with the help of PCNA ,you can get repairs authorized because you have been a loyal customer.

Also, one should consider the size of the dealership and how much work their mechanics do on Porsche cars. Our local dealer is a multi marque dealer and the mechanics work on relatively few Porsches. Many of the mechanics at the local shops have much more Porshce experience and many have much of the same training.

for what it is worth.... <_<

What type of cleaners do most people use for the cleaning of the MAF, etc.

I use a quick drying electronic cleaner that leaves no residue. I got it a a local hardware store for a few bucks.

I have had the B&M in the car for several months. I love it. It can be a bit stiff when cold - as I heard before hand. It seems to be loosening up over time, though. Shifts are short and sweet. A couple Porsche friends have driven it: one liked it (plans to do it) the other wasn't thrilled. It was very easy to do; I think it took a couple hours being very careful to mark, measure and protect exposed finished surfaces from scratches.

Find one in your area and drive it.

David

Getting ready for a couple TSD rallies. I've never done one before. I know the speedo is not accurate. I'm planning on taking it to the deal for calibration. Am I wasting my money/time? Is there something I should know before I go?

Thanks,

David

I've been following this thread for some time and really appreciate the attention to detail.

I am a spirited street/road driver and plan to autocross more frequently as time goes. My track days are still off in the future. Given that I also use the car for daily driving, I don't want to lower the car. I do want to decrease body roll, so will add stiffer anti-roll bars. I currently have 18" wheels.

My shop guy/friend sugested using 17" wheels with lower-than-stock profile tires for autox because it would lower the car's C-G and slightly improve throttle response with a smaller wheel to turn. I can get a second set of wheels for autox pretty easily and keep the 18s for street/road (future track - maybe 19s for track) driving.

Also - reading more about anti-roll bar stiffness, even thought the base Boxster has a larger diameter on the rear bar than the S model, I think the wall thickness on the S model is thicker making it a torsionally stiffer bar.

Two questions:

1) any thoughts about the smaller wheel set up?

2) What differences exist between the Porsche M030 sway bars and other brand after market bars? How stiff is too stiff?

David

Can't seem to find it now, but I did it last fall and posted part numbers. There are several other posts that address one part of the process or another. Search cupholderectomy

It is a pretty straight forward process; and not too expensive, either.

So...if I wanted a twin turbo in my base '01, what are the options?

a 3.6 TT engine from a Carrera?

add TT to my 2.7?

Other?

http://www.renntech.org/forums/index.php?showtopic=5060

Maybe this will help...

OK. No luck here. After fixing the tape on one side (as indicated in the pictures) we went on a short drive around town, top down, still had the noise.

Since it was a cool day, we had the windows up. I mentioned the noise to my S.O. and she said she heard it on her side, too. Just for kicks, I held the window tight against the windshield pillar. The noise stopped. S.O. did the same thing on her side. The noise stopped there, too.

So. What does this mean? Is there something loose in the door or is this just the glass rattleing in the guides?

Hmmmm...

The gearlever in my 97 ROW 986 (60,000 miles) is becoming increasingly stiff in the lateral direction of movement (left to right, i.e. mid way through shift from second to third; also when on the way to reverse). It has steadily got worse over the last year (so a progressive problem I believe).

When I was at Ninemeister eighteen months ago getting my variocam solenoid replaced, the shop supervisor pointed out the gear cables to me and said they had a tendency to fray internally and eventually needed replacing. Is this my problem and how hard to change the cables? Anyone bought a pair before?

Thanks.

Never heard of that problem before so i would consider this is not a tendancy at all,

Before you shell out have a look at the gearlever pivots (underneath the gear knob gaiter) they are just a plastic type material. give it a quick spray of WD40 and try again, if this corrects it then go back to the pivots and work some grease into them to make a longer lasting solution (WD dries up prety quick)

Glyn

I'll second Glyn's approach. I just installed the B&M short shifter. There is no cable involvement when moving the shifter laterally. I'mm surprised that there is some binding. I can imagine that something fell through the console, via the ash tray, and is binding, but not likely given the distance ti would have to travel. Pull the lether boot and inspect the mechanism. Shouldn't be too difficult to see what is happening.

By the way; I love the new feel of the shift!

I'm curious to know what this bolt actually adjusts. I hear a (the) noise somewhere around my left shoulder (American-left hand drive). I hear the noise when I hit certain kinds of bumps. Often it sounds like it is in the door - maybe the plastic latch cable-housing rattling between the door and the interior panel?

I tighted the bolt indicated in the picture about 3/4 to one turn. It felt snug (the whole time I turned it), but that could be drag caused by friction in the threads. Maybe I didn't tighten it enough, but the sound is still there. If I know what was tightening exactly, or some way to tell if I've over-tightened it, I think I would have a better idea of what to do. If I tighten it too much (not so much to shear the head off) will something break? Will the top open or close differently? Should I be tightening each side equally? (I have so far.)

Looking at your pictures it is hard to tell what your fingers are holding. Is there another angle you can use for a picture. What is the part attached to? Describe the problem that results from the broken part.

I agree with Topless.

:soapbox:

I took my brother-in-law for a ride and then let him drive my Box. He was so jazzed he immediately looked at the market. I was dissapointed when he opted for the '05 vette. He said that it rated higher in the R&T review (mentioned above) and that he fit in it better. And when I think about it, it does fit his personality better - he is a champion bodybuilder; he didn't really fit well in the Box and his head loves the horsey in the vette. My Porsche friends agree that the vette has a good performance/value ratio. But they drive Porsche cars.

And..., when you look more closely at the R&T review, you will see that when price is not a factor, the Box wins. The saying "Nothing else even comes close" is how I feel about it.

The only real maintenace issues with the Box, for me, has been tires. Depending how you drive, and what you use the car for, you may have better tire life than I do (other Porsche friends have similar experience to mine). My experience, and what I've heard from others, is two sets of rear to one set of front tires. It is not unusual for a rear set to last less than 10k miles if it is used for hard/sport driving and/or for a periodic auto cross. Of course if something breaks, the European cars are more expesnive for parts. Porsche reliabiity seems to be very high when the early Box RMS and the early Cayenne electrical problems are factored out.

My last car was an Acura RSX typeS. Reliable, good gas mileage, fun to drive when the rpms were pushed, but it always felt a bit high strung on the road. It was not expensive to maintain and did way better on tires. However, it did not begin to compare with the Box. If I factor out tires, I think I'm paying about the same for maintenance. Insurance is $16 a month more.

For me, the Porsche wins hands down. Drive them all - then decide...

Anyone out there heard of Ticket Slayer?? www.ticketslayer.com ? Supposedly there is a legal loophole that can get you out of regular traffic tickets, I will appreciate any comments especially from any attornies out there, it seems too easy, mom always told me if it seems too good to be true it probably is, BUT, why not try this thing? I haven't received any tickets yet but I figure its only a matter of time...

I have heard of this approach used for avoiding taxes. It has not worked in the cases I know of and has resulted in long court battles, huge fines, and threats of prison. I saw it ruin one guy. While their claims are theoretically possible, the practicality is that people are held to account for breaking laws every day. (I work in a parole office.) If this stuff was legit, it would be used every day and we would read about it in the papers and see it on the morning and evening news shows.

Get a good radar locator (V-1) and drive smart.

:drive:

Does anyone here know what makes the Drivers side window automatically go up with 1 touch of the button, Both my windows go down with 1 touch but the Passenger window doesnt have the 1 touch feature to go back up... Is it the switch or the relay that enables the drivers side window to have 1 touch auto up and down?

I'd like to have both windows to have 1 touch roll-up ability. :D

Sometimes mine does this after putting the top up or down. I think the window needs to reset the end/stop positions. I have corrected it by running it though a couple cycles, up and down, holding the button each way. The it gives me the one-touch function back. If this doesn't work, check the relay. I'm not with my book to tell you which one it is at the moment.

Me too! I had almost 4 years and 70,000 miles of driving a 2002 RSX type S. I loved the car from the moment I read about it and couldn't believe how good it was when I took one for a test drive. 200 horsepower, six speed close ratio box, and better than 30 mpg.

My first drive of the Boxster came last January while getting my RSX brakes relined. While waiting for them to finish washing the car, I drooled over a speed yellow '01 Boxster with 35k miles sitting on the Acura lot. The salesman asked if I wanted to take her for a drive. Well, as they say, the rest is history. The first drive in the Boxster was clearly out of the box for me. I haven't been the same since.

:jump: