dammad

1) yes

2) no

3 button remote is for 996 cab. ( ROW ) or later 986.

Early 996 and 986 have no electric motors to open the trunk(s) via remote.

Thanks.. So the 2nd button would open my top? Since I have a cab.

Alan.

My trusty one button remote fob on my '99 996 seems to have died. New battery no luck.

I'm looking around for a new key fob and see a 3 button type (opens more than just the doors with the other buttons) and the 1 button type.

My question is:

- can I use a 3 button on a car that originally had only a 1 button type?

- will the other 2 buttons do something useful?

Lastly, anyone know a cheap place to get a remote programmed to the car in the SF bay area?

Dammad.

Any idea what the part number is the for rear fog light bulb on a 996?

My '99 996 has the usual initial clatter as the tappets fill up and has done for a couple of years (as long as I can remember). I've switch oil weights, but nothing helps. However, it was just a 1second thing and so ignore it these days.

In the last few months I noticed a new clatter at start. Sounds like a heavy clanking sound (about 0.5s between clanks) at start up. Give it some slight revs and it disappears. Let it sit in the garage and it will take 30-60 s for it to subside.

I'm also getting a slight 'tappet noise' around 2400 RPM when I back off during normal driving. Nothing loud, just slight noise that an ear in the car can hear if used to the normal smooth running.

I thinking that since the car has 110k miles that the oil channels may be starting to get a little gummed up (even though I use 91 Octane Chevon fuel only). Any other suggestions?

I need an oil change (has been done regular on 10k intervals), so was thinking about putting in one of those 'engine cleaning' products to help clean things up before the change. Any suggestions on if (1) this will harm it; (2) a good one to use.

Dammad.

Thanks for the feedback.. In the end (after sacrificing some knuckle skin to car) it came off. In case others read this, the trick was to use a offset OS wrench and whack it at an angle down through the gap in front of the engine to get it to shift.

Haven't looked at new cats. Although with 120k on the clock I may need to soon.

I've changing my O2s (100k on them and finally got a ODBII code). All of the O2 sensors were fine to change, except the last. The left hand O2 that is after the cat from the right bank seems impossible to access. There seems to be less space than the right hand side. I tried my offset and over-the-top sockets but they don't give me enough leverage/access to get it loose.

Help! I've read the forums that say its a 15min job, but perhaps my 1999 996 (standard exhaust) is more difficult. Seems to be no room between the other cat and the engine to get any tool on it.

Dammad.

Quick follow up question.

Loren's alignment numbers at the beginning of the thread seem to indicate only one alignment for a standard Carrera in the US. I've heard that there is a 'track' alignment which has less understeer, etc. Or did I hear wrong?

I've got a 1999 996 Cab and would like to have a 'neutral' alignment upfront, but don't want excessive camber on the rear.

Any pointers/suggestions?

Checked around some more in the morning and it was the sensor at the bottom of the coolant tank. I would have through that when they switched the tank 10k miles ago they would have changed the seal, but that's where its leaking.. I'll take it back to the place I had it before to see if they'll fix it for free.

Cheers.

If it smells sweet it is coolant.

Alas it does seem to be coolant. Overnight the coolant level slowly dropped a few mm. Looks like a leak from the coolant tank bottom.. I'll have to drain it and pull it out.

Thx.

Red orange liquid? Does it feel oily? If so, could it possibly be a leaking strut? Usually the oil from the strut is clear and oily. IIRC the OEM coolant is either pink or greenish.

My bottle of Porsche coolant is more orange than pink, but it's probably orangey-pink.

Struts got me to thinking and I dug around at the back of the car.. For the US version, the bumper seems to have two impact absorbers. Any idea if those are liquid/oil filled? Seems to be coming from around there.

Sounds like a cracked coolant tank to me.

I thought that too, but the coolank tank was replaced $15k ago and I can't see any leaks from there. Any other pipes rearward of the engine that might be leaking?

Coolant in the expansion tank does not seem to have dropped in level (despite a 24" circle of liquid under the car). All other liquids look at the right level also.

???

$100k 3.4L 99. Daily driver. No real issues. Replaced water pump at 85k, and have a little knocking on cold start, but nothing unusual.

My 1999 996 Tip just developed a leak from appears on the left exhaust. It appears to be red/orange liquid (coolant) and it dripping on to the exhaust from the inners of the rear bumper. I've peered from the bottom and top and can't seem to find the source of the leak. Also I'm mystified because this point is further back (rearward) than the engine itself. Above and the right is the air filter, but I don't see any obvious signs of a coolant pipe nearby and it is too rearward to be something like the water pump (I had this fail 15000 miles ago).

Any ideas/pointers on where this might be coming from while I search from the workshop manuals for some hints?

Dammad

I got a cheap Traffic Pro upgrade kit off of eBay a few weeks ago. It looks to be the official 'Tequipment' retrofit box. The kit came with a GT5 antenna to WICLIC (becker) GPS adaptor, so I went ahead of got the easier to get GT5 based GPS antenna. Now I'm going ahead with the install, I've found I've lost the GT5 to WICLIC adaptor that it came with.

I've looked around and adaptors in this direction aren't very popular. So I'm wondering if anyone else on the board got a similar retrofit kit with this adaptor and didn't get up using the adaptor. And might be willing to let me acquire it for a small sum?

Other than that, I guess I have to bite the bullet and get the official antenna with the right connector to replace the GT5 one I have.

Thanks.. I'll remove it and have a look.

FYI: I removed the lever assembly and found that the solenoid was fine, but that the wire hook from the solenoid to the locking mechanism had become disengaged.. I realigned it and reassembled.. no problems..

Perhaps I took a speed bump to fast at some point recently.

Thanks.. I'll remove it and have a look.

Can you open the fuel filler lid?

They are on the same circuit. Both are controller by the Alarm/Central Locking control box. So, if there is not a bad connection or broken wire then you may need a PST2 or PIWIS to troubleshoot it.

Interesting.. Yes, I can open the filler lid without any problems.

Is the engine compartment locking on the same circuit too? I don't see that on the diagram. I'm unable to open that by the lever also.

My '99 996 has been working fine, but today I was unable to open neither the trunk or the engine compartment. It seems that despite the car having power, running fine, etc. the two levers are 'locked' by the electro-mechanical lock mechanism present on early 996s.

I've read all the threads about emergency releases and opening with a flat battery, but my problem is that I want the mechanism to 'unlock', since the battery is fine and the car runs well.

What could make the hood release mechanism stay locked even when the car is unlocked and everything else (steering lock) are fine???

Wow, great thanks. You Renntech'ers are great!

P0102 Mass Air Flow Sensor - Below Lower Limit

P0130 Oxygen Sensor Ahead of Catalytic Converter (Cylinders 1 - 3) - Intercore Short Circuit or Limited Voltage Increase

P0150 Oxygen Sensor Ahead of Catalytic Converter (Cylinders 4 - 6) - Intercore Short Circuit or Limited Voltage Increase

What kind of cleaner did you use?

It looks like you may have contaminated the O2 sensors.

I would buy a new MAF and then reset the codes and see what you have.

I just used the MAF Cleaner from Kragen.. Sprayed, let it dry (evaporate) and reinstall..

Wait.. I also put in some Fuel Injector cleaner. Nothing special, but the techron stuff.

P0102 Mass Air Flow Sensor - Below Lower Limit

P0130 Oxygen Sensor Ahead of Catalytic Converter (Cylinders 1 - 3) - Intercore Short Circuit or Limited Voltage Increase

P0150 Oxygen Sensor Ahead of Catalytic Converter (Cylinders 4 - 6) - Intercore Short Circuit or Limited Voltage Increase

What kind of cleaner did you use?

It looks like you may have contaminated the O2 sensors.

I would buy a new MAF and then reset the codes and see what you have.

I just used the MAF Cleaner from Kragen.. Sprayed, let it dry (evaporate) and reinstall..

I got a P1126/1124 (all cylinders beyond lean threshold) on my '99 996.

I gave the MAF a squirt of cleaner and now I also have Pre-DTCs (150/130 and 102) -- Intercore Short on O2 sensors (both banks) and MAF below limit.

Sounds serious, both O2 and MAF? Any ideas?

My '99 tip gets stuck in Park when I start the engine. Try as I might, it won't shift to any other position since the selector button won't depress. If I apply pressure to the selector switch while turning on the engine, it does go down and then allow me to shift. Plus once going it shifts between R, D and M without any problem and drives great.

I'm assuming the keylock cable between the ignition key and the tip are having some kind of problem, because it seems to disengage with some pressure on the selector button, but not otherwise.

I don't see any information on adjusting this keylock cable or problems with it, so I wondered whether any rennlisters had any insight on where to check/adjust?

Yes, the lights are On even when not in use.

Where about is the switch? I'll check it with a multimeter this evening.

My rear brakes lights are always illuminated no matter what I do to the brake pedal. Any ideas? I'm assuming there's a switch somewhere that maps the brake pedal motion to the lights? Or I guess they could be binding somehow...

The brakes themselves feel okay to me.