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Everything posted by dammad

  1. I put it back on over the weekend. A couple more tips than above: - put the seals on the intakes - make sure to put the backs/bottoms of the seals in the right position. I pulled the fronts a bit wider to give more room to get the plenum in - connect the rear electrics/hoses then get the seals back in the right place since they’ll have moved. - put the bottom clamps in first and align them with the bottom of the seals. With these I managed to get them seated fairly easily. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  2. I’ve fixed my oil in the plenum problem but now need to get the plenum reinstalled. Any suggestions for how to get the seals/clamps in place? So far I’ve have: - put bottoms of clamps in first - lube the seals with wd40 - pull the seals around the plenum to make sure they seat But I’m having difficulty getting the seals on, especially the backs. Should I put the seals on the plenum first or the intake? How to make sure the back is seated? Sorry my first time putting it back and can’t find any videos to show the process. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  3. I’ve spent a while looking at the dye from the test around the engine bay. Most seems to have dripped from the seals at the plenum bottom causing a light amount of dye in the pools of oil below. I do see a little oil at the AOS’s top valve (breather?) but not much. When an AOS dies does oil come out from the AOS itself or does it just cause the vent lines and air intake to get oily? I’ve *lots* of oil in the plenum. Any help appreciated. Lost as to the cause. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  4. Busy tracing where the dye is coming from. What does this pipe do: behind and the left of the alternator? Seems to be that or dripping off it. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  5. Uh oh! The problem is back. Car was a bit rough yesterday, so I pulled off the air box this morning to check around. I've got oil in the same places above the engine. I checked the plenum/throttle body and it is very oily. Oil is sitting on top of the engine block on the left and right side of the engine. Now I'm torn. Did the shop not put the AOS in right? Are there other things that can cause oil in these places? I'm tempted to do the dye in the oil but would have to take the plenum, etc. off to be able to get a black light in there and I'm not really sure what the candidate components are to look for/at. Any suggestions?
  6. I had my oil level sensor go but when it went it just said nothing. If you are really concerned do as JFP suggests or dump all the oil out into something you can measure it with. If you change the sensor you have to change empty the oil anyway. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  7. Do you have a durametric you can use to pull some codes? I believe the PDK will flash something in the gear indicator if it is in limp home mode but this may be more subtle than that. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  8. Thanks. Saw the threads about keys getting stuck in. Didn't realize that was the same as keys that don't turn off the ignition. I guess it's all part of the same mechanism.
  9. I’ve found that increasingly when I turn off the ignition the car keeps running. I have to put it back in and wiggle it then turn off. Any idea what’s broken? Can I fix or do I need the dealer? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  10. It depends how much. Top bar of the readout flashing? Or worse? Removing the oil filter and replacing will take out an amount to fix a small overfill. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  11. 1700 of the 2000 odd operating hours are reported at 'overspeed range 1'. Highly suspicious.
  12. You may be able to trigger it by using a reverse wire sourced from somewhere in the car. But as Richard mentions, you'll probably need the RGB input enabled with a PIWIS
  13. I've an occasional problem on my 2009 C4S. I've got Textar pads on (a year or two old), but I've noticed recently that when I start out a trip (usually after being left for a while) that there's very little brake bite initially. The type of situation is: I'm leaving the parking lot after work and go to press the brakes to stop for a car ahead and very little happens. Instead, I really have to stand on them to make it stop. This, however, only happens occasionally, say once a week. Other than this, the brakes work well and pads/discs are good. Brake fluid also looks good (level/color). Pedal feel is good with no spongy-ness. I'm wondering if this is glazing on the discs. It's a daily driver so no track work to give those brakes more of a work out. Any other suggestions on potential problems?
  14. Quick follow up in case others need this. It was the AOS. All fixed and back on the road.
  15. Okay.. Have some of the UV stuff coming today, but using my old endoscope to have a look around. Oil seems to be pooling to the rear and left (drivers side) of a grey circular thing behind the oil filler pipe in the center of the engine. See top left of the first picture. The second picture is a view below and to the left (drivers) of that grey thing. Other areas look clean dry but can't get to see behind the grey circular thing. I assume this is the AOS based on looking over parts diagrams. The oil filler pipe looks dry and clean where it connects so assume is fine until I get the UV stuff in.
  16. Thanks guys. Alas, I'm out on kid's spring break now, will get on it when I'm back.
  17. I noticed the last three days that my 997.2 C4S drips a good amount of oil on the drive overnight. I had a look at it today (and parked it in a different spot to gauge the amount of oil). I thought it might be a slightly loose drain plug or something, but appears to be coming from the rear of the engine somewhere. ?Does anyone have any ideas? I can't see where it's coming from. the major drips seem to come from the bolt at the center of the picture. Expensive or really really expensive to fix?
  18. I took it to the shop and they fixed it fairly quickly. The problem was the lights and their alignment. Once they did that it was back to looking right. In case anybody needs in the future.
  19. Thanks for the feedback. I have a look at it tomorrow to see if it easily adjusts a 'smidgeon'.
  20. The engine cover of my '09 997.2 4S Cab doesn't seem to align like I remember it did. I had a rear-end accident a month or so ago and had it repaired, but didn't notice it at the time. Essentially the engine lid closes fine, but it doesn't line up when closed. It protrudes a few millimeters from the line of the lights (IMG_2617). The line of the engine cover seems to line up with the rest of the bodywork (IMG_2618), so I can't work out what isn't installed right. I'll take it back to the shop, but would love any pointers on the problem to get them past 'it's supposed to be like it'. Any help or pointers appreciated.
  21. Thanks. I was aiming to get the bottom on first also, but there’s not much room on the 997.2 to pull it back far enough and down to get it on. At least for my fingers. For others losing knuckle skin on this: I solved this by moving the adjustable clamp completely back. Then I used my fingers from the top to poke inside the rubber tube bending the top rubber down so I could push the lower rubber lip down from inside under the intake. Once that’s on, the rest falls in place. Of course this bending puts strain on the rubber but replacing that (if ever) is much cheaper than my time and skin. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  22. I took off my air box (attaches the air intake with the air filters inside) to check belts. Now I need to get it back in. However, try as I might, I can’t get the rubber neck to completely go on the bottom of the air intake on the engine. I’ve done this before on a 996 without issues but on my 997.2 4S there seems to be very little space to be able to negotiate the bottom of the rubber hose over the bottom lip of the air intake. (See attachment). Either I’ve got fat fingers or there’s a method to it that I’m missing. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  23. After leaving it for a while the hub moves more freely, so assume it was residue pressure in the lines. Still, doesn't explain why I get grinding feeling/noise when I brake at low speed. Any ideas on that?
  24. My 2009 4S has been running well, but recently I noticed that when I brake I can feel some mild grinding when I brake at low speeds. No brake wears lights are on, so I checked the front and rear brake pads manually and they both have lots of pad left. I removed a front wheel and found that if I turn the hub by hand: - it moves very stiffly. Even after I've put the PDK in N. and handbrake is off - there is some rotational play in the front axle shaft to the 4WD system. You can feel it touching on the gears to the left/rightNot sure if this is normal, but thought I'd mention it. Now I'm wondering if the brake system at the front is doing something strange (why can't I turn it easily) or there's an axis/4WD problem? Discs look very good and I get no vibration under braking. Any ideas? Is the axle and turning stiffness just a feature of the 4WD?
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