dammad

Many thanks for all the feedback. Alas with the holiday build up I didn't get time to do a leak down test. I'll take it to my local shop for just a leak down test in the new year, unless it is easy to get the  engine to TDC.

Happy Holidays to everyone!

Are you sure you mean m-mode? In M-mode you need to upshift unless you hit the computer max. Perhaps you mean auto-mode?

My '99 C2 Cab appears to have developed an intermix problem. I was driving home yesterday and the low coolant light came on. I stopped and checked, coolant was low but I couldn't get the coolant tank top off for a top up even after letting it cool a bit. Since it was pouring and near to home, I drove home and checked it this morning. The coolant appears to have a thin (couple of mm think) layer of mayo/pancake batter. I checked the oil dipstick and the oil looks normal with no 'chocolate milk'. 

As a long time poster/lurker, I've read all the threads on intermix and fear I've perhaps a oil cooler problem (oil in coolant but nothing obvious in the oil). However, the coolant level is way down now so must have gone somewhere. I plan on flat bedding it to a local independent but with the holidays it might be after the holidays when they reopen. Is there anything I can useful check myself beforehand? Cylinder pressure test? Dump the oil and look for water? Or should I just wait?

On my past 996 (and I've heard 997) the cabriolet drains are a common source of water in the footwells. Now that the rain has stopped a bit in California I'm wondering what maintenance I should do for my 997.2 C4S with respect to drain maintenance. If the design better in the 997.2 or do I need to remove the wheel liners and take sure the drains are clear?

Any advise on places to clean/look for problems would be appreciated.

George,

My 4s is the same. Voice control is an optional module for PCM3.0. The lack of the button on the stalk shows we lack the option.

Well I called up the dealer to try to find the latest SW Ver, but they won't give it out.. They just wanted to charge me $340 to 'diagnose it'.. From what I can tell it is pretty normal for PDKs to be a bit jerky and the new SW seems to smooth things out, but they don't make it easy to do the update. :-(

What's the latest PDK software version for the 997-2? I've the jerkiness and have read reports of the benefit of the SW version upgrade. I've got:

 

SW Ver: 4230363720202020

HW Ver: 544332314C314432

 

 

Anyone know what the latest SW Ver is? I'm trying to work out if I've the latest or not.

Stormrune: I have Sports Chrono already and agree it is very good with the PDK but does make the shifting harder

Thanks Loren!

I changed the air filter on my '09 C4S and noticed two small air pipes and a changeover switch going from the air box to the car? What do they do? Does it feed vacuum to the car or is this some kind of resonance control at different speeds?

Just curious...

What's the latest PDK software version for the 997-2? I've the jerkiness and have read reports of the benefit of the SW version upgrade. I've got:

SW Ver: 4230363720202020

HW Ver: 544332314C314432

Anyone know what the latest SW Ver is? I'm trying to work out if I've the latest or not.

You don't give much background on whether there are other issues with the steering or if you've owned a 911 in the past.

If you are new to 911s then that might explain it. It sounds pretty normal to me. I have a very small amount of play and can feel all the bumps. Porsche is known for its excellent steering that gives lots of feedback.

How this helps.

FYI to others. Water pump is harder to get out compared to the 996 due to the engine carrier being about 1/2" closer. You have to detach more of the engine carrier to get it out.

Anyone know any independent shops or RennTech members in the Bay Area with a real PIWIS? I've trying to avoid the stealership to program a key things on my 996 and 997.2. 

Dammad

Just a strange thought. Perhaps it is full already and that is why it comes out??

Sounds like the PCM is having issues if even iPhones don't work. My iPhone and my Galaxy S4 both work fine as 'hands-free' profile devices.. Perhaps the 'phone module' is causing it to look only for a SIM access profile? What model Android are you trying? Some have SIM access profile and others require RSAP to enable. http://www.android-rsap.com/

Have you or Porsche tried reading codes from the Seat Memory module? A Durametric can get those out for more diagnostics

Anyone with any 997.2 water pump change experience? I've got the pump and plan an attempt on Sunday..

Anyone with any 997.2 water pump change experience? I've got the pump and plan an attempt on Sunday..

Alan.

Alas I've been reading that water pump and the HPFP are the two main weaknesses.. Alas my prior owner didn't get it fixed it seems... Glad you caught it.

Am I unlucky.. :huh:  Seems that after fixing my oil level sensor, I've found that the coolant pump squeaks when the car warms up. I've localized the noise to the pump rather than the idler pulley so it is looking like I'm going to have to get it replaced. 56k miles seems awfully early for the water pump to die.  :censored:  Has anyone seen Porsche fix these outside of warranty (or discount?)?

Alternatively, does anyone have any experience with the DIY replacement? I've done it on my 996 (1999) so am wondering if it is more or less difficult? I've read that it is supposed to be more accessible, but the workshop manual seems to indicate removing the entire engine carrier plate on the rear of the engine.

:help:

I quick note to close the thread. I changed the oil and oil level sensor.. Now the oil reader and oil temp gauge are now working.. As an FYI for others reading this thread: the oil level sensor operates when the oil is above 60C (140F) -- according to workshop manual. In practice it seems the level is not read continuously but periodically so you might get to 61 or 62 first. The T_030_Oil_temp reading in the durametric seems to be the level sensor.

That Audi forum link is very useful. Thanks. Since replacing the sensor would require draining the oil, I'll do a oil dump first to check the levels and if they are good then I'll change the sensor before refilling. I did not see a 997 durametric instrument test, but will check again.

Ok, finally got some time to test with disconnection. Here's a summary of what I know:

- With the sump oil sensor connected

   - no errors on the instrument panel

   - oil pressure looks normal (jumps to about 4 and then immediately drops to 2 and then down to 1.5)

   - Oil temp and Oil level test don't respond on the instrument cluster

   - Through durametric: T_030_Oil_Temp and T_100_Oil_Temp sensors show no value 

   - Through durametric: Oil Temperature shows a value that climbs up to at least 70C

- Without the sump oil sensor connected

   - Warnings on the dashboard within 30 secs of starting. Shows faulty Oil temp and Oil level sensor warnings

   - Otherwise it operates the same as with sensor plugged in

   - Through durametric: T_030_Oil_Temp and T_100_Oil_Temp sensors show no value still

   - Through durametric: Oil Temperature shows a value that climbs still. So I assume this comes from some other sensor. Looking at my car I seem to have a sensor at the top of the engine that JFP initially mentioned, perhaps that is also used for oil temp in the top of the engine

Based on this, should I suspect the oil level/temp sensor in the sump? I'm not sure what T_30_xxx and T_100_xxx sensor readings mean or where they come from but it is odd they show nothing. However, the car shows no fault with the sensor plugged in so I assume it gives the ECU something it thinks is valid. I don't know what the pinout is on the sump sensor, it has three pins. Alternatively, perhaps its the instrument cluster connections. I couldn't find a way to cause the gauge to move through durametric activations to test it. 

Any ideas?

Yes will try a disconnect. I see one oil sensor working through durametric, would be good to check if that is the sump one.

Is Oil temperature necessary for the oil level test to be enabled? The owner's manual says car temp up to 140F (coolant). Perhaps there's an unspoken oil temp requirement too? 200F?

Thanks Loren. You guys are the best!

Alas after checking the connections the gauge does not move. I let it warm to 73c by durametric but nothing. I would have let it go further but something started to slightly squeak so that freaked me out a bit.

What should I check next?

I checked the connections to the sender and they seem good. I'm letting her warm up again.

Loren:JFP: any thoughts on the 1990 fault code from the PDK?