dammad

I would buy if the open while moving was enabled.

Thanks. I'll get the components on the belt checked when I do the replacement then.

I put a new serpentine belt on my '99 996 Tip at 90,000 miles, but now at 123,000 miles the belt it showing signs of wear (stage 1 cracks). I expected the serpentine belt to last longer than this? Is this normal or is the belt tensioner broken/misadjusted?

Wonder if it would be possible to install a Fister, and a PSE actuator (there are cheap).

I looked at this, but could not find an actuator that would fit on the 1.75" pipe. They are all 2" pipe or large for cutouts, etc.

The first issue is likely the common lag/glitch in the VarioCam system. What is happening is the cam positions are in change over at that point and result in a slight loss of power at that point. This is normal for 996s and is likely not related at all to your transmission.

Second issue sounds like your clutch is binding. (I have a Tip so don't know the 996 clutch well.). How easily does the car roll when the clutch is depressed (for example if you were to have a friend push it). Have you checked the clutch hydraulic fluid level?

Did you find out any more about this? I have a similar surge around 2700RPM that I'm trying to determine is the Tiptronic, Variocam or something else.

Do a quick Google search on "exhaust cutout valve" and you will find a plethora of sources for these. Some come with flanges, etc. You should be able to find something that would work. I am surprised that no one has tried this yet on the 996's. I can tell you that I love my PSE because I have the option of letting it be loud or quieting it down. Sometimes the loud setting just gets to be too much, and if you get on it it really is loud.

I have a FisterD bypass on my mufflers but would really like to mimick the full PSE with the ability to turn up and down the volume. The diameter of my bypasses is 1 3/4", does anyone know of a valve (manual/electric) that would fit there?

Dammad.

Actually, that was still very helpful. I hadn't thought to maximize the pressureon the zebra connector by putting the lower tabs in tight first. Good advice. I don't suppose you still have the extra funky faceplate you want to sell cheap? As long as it lights up, I can build one good one around those two, same way. All my buttons are in great shape.

Did you ever get your backlight fixed? I have the same problem. While the DIY is helpful, since they are LED backlights I'm looking for info on what was the root cause.

Another possibility is that your fuel injectors are dirty/clogged. Try using Techron fuel system cleaner.

Yeap, trying that already didn't seem to help. I gave it two 'doses' to be sure.

I'm thinking that if the MPG is dropping then the mixture in the car must be getting richer (e.g. using more fuel). If it was a throttle body (too much air) problem then that would seem to lead to it running lean and thus increased MPG?

I noticed this too. I thought it was just me, I replaced my spark plugs and checked the coil packs hoping it would make a difference but it didn't. I know that California is now 10% Ethanol all year round now. All of the majors starting switching last year and now its mandatory for everybody in California to be at 10% Ethanol. Figured that it was because of the increase from 5.7% to 10% that caused my gas mileage to drop.

kbull88: What MPG do you get these days? I figured that the Ethanol content would cause the MPG to drop and stay dropped rather than decline steadily.

Would an Octane Booster help restore the MPG/running?

I had declining MPG and the problem turned out to be worn out primary O2 sensors. They didn't throw a code but replacing them caused the MPG to jump up significantly. What's the mileage on your car?

good question. 115k miles, but I changed all the O2 sensors at 90k miles.

Has your area switched to mandated alcohol in the fuel? That will reduce mileage.

Yes, I believe we have ethanol mix until March (80/20?). But I would expect the MPG to drop in one go and then stay low all winter rather than continue to drop slowily over time.

Did you clean the throttle body too?

I cleaned around the throttle butterfly 6 months ago and also the idle valve. Perhaps I should take the whole throttle body off and clean.

My 1999 C2 Cab Tip runs well, but I've noticed that according to the OBC that the MPG of my vehicle has been slowily dropping over the last 6 months. I do the same commute with it everyday, so my mileage is super reproducible. It used to average around 16.7 MPG (US), but have slowily drifted down to 15.4 MPG (US) now (regular 30 minute commute with 60% freeway). I changed the air filter (Mahler) and cleaned the MAF 1.5 weeks ago, however since it has continued to drop in MPG (from 15.5 -> 15.4 in that time).

The car runs a little rough at idle (passenger seat back vibrates a little) and the tailpipes are grey.. What else should I be looking for?

I'd like a 'beep' to confirm that the alarm activated when I leave the car too. So like to leave the glovebox open, etc. to get the single beep, but then I loose the information on whether something was left open.

I'm wondering, couldn't a small buzzer or horn be connected some how to the central locking circuit so that when the locks are locked the buzzer sound briefly too? How does the central locking work, is there a circuit that is energized momentarily that we could hook into somewhere?

I have heard that US spec cars are slightly higher at the front than at the rear as part of some safety regulation. So if there is only a small difference in ride height, this may be the reason.

Check if it makes the noise with the AC switch on too (when idle).. The fans (all three I believe) will run on low speed. Of course it could be a problem on the high-speed side but this would seem to be a simple check.

I've never had any problems doing this on my Porsche (1999) or other vehicles. The transmission simply selects the right matching gear as you shift from N to D. The real problem is doing is smoothly and also making sure you don't accidentally get it in R.

None of the links seem to work because they both point to the same 'Blocked content' page. Does anyone have a copy of the page or an alternate DIY?

Hi. On my 2000 C2 Tip, shifted moved all summer, fall, on cold days this winter, I notice a definite "bump" sound and lurch on many shifts?

Have you changed the transmission fluid? Mine can get a little 'jerky' when cold but I put this down a bit to age (10 years). You'll want to make sure the fluid is good.

Does anyone have a picture of the difference in the wheel cap between 996 and 997. I like the idea of a larger crest size but would like to see the difference.

If it were my car I would have it realigned by a competent shop. They will be able to show you if it has moved out of tolerance, one good pothole or other road hazard could be responsible. At the same time have them look for wear or loose parts.

thanks. Good recommendation.

Cheers!

Sorry forgot to mention they are Sumitomos. Pics of other similar tires at 285/30-18 would be useful also.

Anyone running 285/30-18 HTR Z IIIs on 10 inch rears? I'm looking for a pic to see what they look like.

I'm running the same type of tire on 265/35-18 but don't like the look of the narrower tire. I've read all the numerous past posts and like 285/30-18, but I notice that the HTR Z IIIs have a diameter of 24.7" and 840 revs/mile. These specs look quite different from an equivalent Pzero Rosso (25.2" and 836), so I'm keen to see what they end up looking like.