dammad

I noticed that my rear tires are wearing unevenly side-to-side, rather than the usual symmetrical inside wear on both rear tires.

The rear left is pretty normal: inside wear and about of tread 1mm before hitting the wear indicator bars

The rear right is worn down to the bars across the whole tire.

Only street use and recommended Porsche alignment for a '99 C2. I had them aligned when installed and both are at the same tire pressure. So I'm wondering if there is something (worn/broken drop links) that might causing them to wear like this before I stick new ones on.

:welcome:

Please state the exact model and year of your car.

I've done this fix myself. I brought the part off of Ebay (what luck!) -- but as Loren says get the right model number since there is some variation.

You can remove the fascia for the switches and remove the switch from the back and replace. Or alternatively, *gently* pry off the new switch cover and press on to the old switch. I did the switch replacement too because I wasn't convinced that all the little parts were perfect.

http://www.renntech.org/forums/index.php?s...st&p=159695

Loren,

This seems to a reference back to the same thread. I too would like to solve the 'wind noise' problem on my 1999 Cab. My hood is also riding high compared to the front.

I have read in several locations that Tiptronics suffer less from RMS issues because the transmission is supported differently.

As far as IMS is concerned, no difference.

I've done the same and could never find them. I just left them and forgot about them and haven't heard from them since. That was 1.5 years ago and no ill effect yet.

Alan.

My top squeaks for the last 20% of the convertible top closing. I opened it up at the weekend and used a q-tip to lube krytec in as many of the top pivots I could get to, but many of the pivots are very hard to get to. Particularly, I suspect the main pivot where the main strut connects to the hard section (last one) of the top. However, it appears very difficult to get any lube up in there due to other parts of the roof assembly.

Any suggestions for how to improve access? different top positions, removing some of the top to gain access?

Usually 1 minute is enough - 5 minutes is okay too.

Don't forget your radio code and station presets.

Awesome. Worked like a charm. :renntech:

Disconnect the battery - then reconnect it and then it will re-learn it's idle and power curve. It will run rough for the first few minutes while it adjusts the program.

Thanks Loren. Do I need to disconnect it for a while to signal the re-learn? 1 minute? 30 minutes?

Since I've been many people advising against the CAI, I decided to remove mine and go back to stock. Unfortunately, when I started it up it ran really badily (spluttering and banging). Tried to give it some gas but that didn't seem to have (just made it worse). Eventually it stalls.

I assume the mixture is wrong. How to get it back to normal? Should I disconnect the battery to get the car back to stock values?

My '99 tiptronic is overdue for a tiptronic oil/fluid change (also the transmission is acting a bit hesitant). I called Marvin at RennShop but it's $620 there and a 2.5 week wait. So I gave the dealership a call and they told me: $450. I asked them to confirm that this drains the tiptronic fluid and differential and only got a vague reply "it drains both".

Since it is a little hesitant and money is tight, I'm thinking of going the dealership route, but would like to understand if draining the tiptronic fluid also drains the differentiate at the same time. I've looked over past threads but can't find a definitive answer.

So it's metric. I'd bet it's hectopascals. Out here in Ohio it's 40 and dropping fast with snow on its way. I just ran here for 45 min. At 4000 RPM it's at 4.5 to 5 bars. Soild doesn't move. Is this normal? It runs smooth and tight. The dealer seems like it's normal??? E

Yes that's normal. The oil pressure is around +/- 4.5 are 4000 rpm.

http://www.wheeltechniques.com/

Oh good, but that wasn't the place i was thinking of. I found it eventually.

http://www.wheelenhancement.com/

Alan.

Wheel Techniques is in Santa Clara CA (Northern California - Bay area)

Wheel Entrancement is in Culver City, CA (Southern California - between LA and Santa Monica)

Yes, thought they were in Bay area, but mis-remembered.

http://www.wheeltechniques.com/

Oh good, but that wasn't the place i was thinking of. I found it eventually.

http://www.wheelenhancement.com/

Alan.

I remember finding a SF Bay Area shop that specialized in Porsche rims that sold refurbished rims and repaired rims (not just a generic repair place). It was on the Peninsula somewhere. I've googled and googled, but can I find it? I can not.

Does anyone remember/know this place?

So, my Durametric indicates that I have an alarm arming issue on my 1999 C2 that is related to the Interior Sensor. I need access now to check it out and/or replace it but I am unsure of its location and best way to access it. I have read several posts on this unit but no clear details on the replacement. Any tips would be greatly appreciated!!!!

I too would be interested in this. One thing to check on the Durametric is the 'Count' value to indicate if it was just a once off issue or a regular one. This will be useful in determining whether it needs replacing.

I've seen the ABS and PSM light come on if some of the wheel sensors is giving wrong readings but weird that you get battery too. Just wondering but perhaps with the electrical changes you've made recently perhaps the computer for ABS/PSM is fried. Does the Durametric report that it can find the ABS unit?

Good to hear. You can select P but just get a ticking noise (no loss of drive).

Okay, before I start this post. I'm no fool, idiot, etc. This was done as an complete accident... So now I've got that out of the way...

I had an early flight last week and so jumped in my '99 996 tip to head to the airport. Got 10mins down the road and got a phone call on my cellphone. A bit sleepy I stuck it from M to D to grab my phone... Except you guessed it, my sleepy old brain had one of those moments and stuck it from M straight to P while heading along at at least 50 miles per hour...

A ticking noise was the first I noticed of this a second or two later. It sounded like something not engaging, but nothing loud or horrendous. As soon as I had processed what was happening, I quickly got it back to N and then back to D.

Car continued to the airport without any problems. M still worked, D still worked as did P (when I stopped and started again).

So the question is, I am in for some trouble. It appears fine, but wanted to know what I should be looking for in case this thing is on a short path to failure now.

Did you ever find out what the problem was? my 996 tip has similar symptoms.

Porsche's older POSES system had estimates by service manual task.

The latest PET parts lists give time units for many common replacement parts and tasks.

Great I've been looking for these for a while. Where can be find POSES or the latest PET list?

water in tank?

Car has tiptronic so it was not a stalll. Just changed fuel filter and checked fuel, clean and OK before this happened. This really felt like the ECU took over and shut the car down.

Perhaps you need to clean your Idle control Value. Perhaps you just got a stumble of the idle while at the lights?

I've read a lot about AT in the serial number means a rebuild. I've also found some information that an X indicates a rebuild also.

http://www.renntech.org/forums/index.php?s...+serial+numbers

http://www.renntech.org/forums/index.php?s...amp;#entry21213

But I can't find any information on what the difference is between AT and X? AT appears to be factory rebuilt, but I assume that X must also be done by the factory??

I have M96/0166X14358 in a 1999 996 Tip. Cab.

A/C pressure will change with ambient temp. I thought that when the A/C was engaged the fans where always on high speed.

I see.. But 16 bar seems really high? Although I'm not expert.

When the A/C is engaged the low speed fans run unless the A/C fluid pressure is > 16 bar

Apart from Lithium Grease for the various cabriolet top pivots and latches, is there something less messy to lube them?

Last thing I need is blobs of lithium grease rubbing on the top or liner.

WD-40? :help:

Started by '99 Tip Cab this morning (95F outside) and everything went fine initially (low speed fans on due to A/C on).

However, after about 2 mins sitting the high-speed fans kicked in. Given the car was still warming up (and AC hack said 57C), I assume that it means that the A/C coolant pressure was high (over 16 bar). What causes that?