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John Komar

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About John Komar

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    Tampa, Florida
  • Present cars
    2004 Porsche Cayenne S, 2003 Mercedes SLK 320, 2000 Mercedes SLK230, 2002 BMW X5 , 2008 Smart Car Pure four two four, 2007 Volvo XC90

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  1. It's alive ! After spending the weekend going through wiring and grounds it still would not run. So even though I put in new sensors I decided to pull them out and test them to see if they were working and unceremoniously they all checked out. But out of curiosity I grabbed an old Bosch cam positioning sensor I had and while holding it next to the (new) Bremi cam positioning sensor something didn't look correct. I decided to measure them and the Bremi cam positioning sensor was at least 1mm shorter than the Bosch sensor. So I replaced the cam sensors with Bosch sensors and wouldn't you k
  2. Well a week at the dealer and still it's not running. They said to take it to the next level is going to be a minimum of $1,200 on top of what they already charged me and there is no guarantee it will run and the estimate will only go up from there unless of course they find something quickly and they can cover it in the $1,200 but like they said no guarantee it will run. So I'm having the car towed back to my place and will start going through all of the wiring Saturday morning. I have this feeling it's something stupid that everyone is over looking or at least I hope so or it will
  3. Stopped raining so I decided to see if I actually have 12V coming to the injectors and sure enough 12V to the injectors and 12V to the coils - baffled - so it looks like the engine is getting what is requested but not firing. If it was an old car I would say the timing was off.
  4. I doubt its the CPS I replaced it about an hour ago (seriously) as I was thinking same thing. It wasn't raining and I was bored and it was sitting in box looking at me, my intent was to return it but I had it so why not. It's a Porsche part NEW. Hardest part was trying to fit my hand behind engine to re clip the wire holders. and it still doesn't go but it started raining again so I had to call it quits.
  5. Thanks for the response. If we're in Immobilizer land then it's to the dealer on Monday (its the point where you throw money at maybe) . The other parts needed to be replaced as they were clearly bad but once you get into the unknown that's the point where a dealer or independent pro can save you money. I'll let you know the out come so at least if someone runs into this thread it may help them.
  6. Another day - Checked voltage into the coil packs 12V when cranking - pulled a few plugs they are dry no fouling and not flooded. Tested for spark -good. So it appears that something is preventing the injectors from opening up and supplying fuel as there is 58 PSI on the rail (gauge connected, no guessing) and power to the coils. It may be something in the DME at this point no other reason, weekends coming up so I'll sit on it and think this through.
  7. A low battery will lock the key in the ignition happened to me. Keep us posted
  8. Well it took awhile to get back here so I'll go over everything I did and what happened. (It takes a while to get parts) #1. Put in new battery and it cranked but slowly. #2. Removed the cover over the fuel pump #1 on the drivers side and found a broken piece of the fuel regulator in the tank which should have been on the passenger side images below. With the carpet sliced I suspected someone was in there and a hack at that - a cut carpet should have been a good indicator. #3 Replaced both fuel pumps, regulator and filter. #4 She came to life...... #5 Starter i
  9. With still a no start situation I pulled the battery back out and had it tested and it was rated at 1000 cold cranking AMPs but only had 440 and voltage drop of 1.2 volts. This was a new battery, but never load tested. They suspected that maybe the battery was bad (parts store). When the rain stops I'm going to try the new battery and see what happens. I also got a code CAM timing sensor BANK 1 error, so I put in a new cam timing sensor on both banks, haven't tested it because of battery issue. I changed both CAM sensors not that both were bad but while I was in there it was easy to just
  10. Well after testing the motor cranks very slow (sometimes not at all) and the voltage drops across the board to 8 volts from 12.6 at the battery. Had the battery load tested and all was good I am now suspecting that the starter may be drawing to much current. At this point I may be having more than one issue, 1st of which is to check the starter and get the voltage drop figured out then onto fuel pumps or it may just be the large current draw and once addressed everything else may fall into order.
  11. Would you know definitively if the immobilizer shuts down power to 0 - zero volts. I'm going to get different leads on my meter so I can get a better reading on the fuse block, I'll update once I can verify voltage without questionable leads. Thanks for the reply
  12. Hello all, new to Porsche and the forum for that matter (1st post) , experienced in Mercedes though. I have just acquired a 2004 Porsche Cayenne S that won't start. I get an intermittent Immobilizer on the dash but if I tap the key and try again it goes away and the car will crank but not start, that's another issue though (I think) - I need a new key anyway. I check the fuel rails and have no fuel/no pressure. I pulled fuse #14 to force secondary pump on and it did not change. While the fuse was out I checked to see if the fuel pumps were getting voltage and with the
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