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rjf123

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About rjf123

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  • From
    Califon, NJ
  • Porsche Club
    PCA (Porsche Club of America)
  • Present cars
    2014 Turbo, 1979 911 Coupe, 1963 356B Cab

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  1. rjf123
    Okay. But how do you remove the plastic box that surrounds the CDC and DVD drive? Do I just pry it with a screwdriver and expect it will pop off? I just don't want to break it as you can imagine. I don't see any screws holding them in place. Thanks, Ross
  2. rjf123
    Could someone please explain how I remove the cowling and carpeting from the front boot in the 997 with 4 - wheel drive. I have a CDC and Navigation DVD drive which are fixed to the walls of the boot and I can't figure out how to remove them. (I assume they have to be removed first). Also the upper rear cowling has about 6 screws in it, which are easy to remove, but it still won't budge. If anyone can give step by step directions, that would be great. Ross
  3. rjf123
    Could someone please explain how I remove the cowling and carpeting from the front boot in the 997 Turbo w 4 - wheel drive. I have a CDC and Navigation DVD drive which are fixed to the walls of the boot and I can't figure out how to remove them. (I assume they have to be removed first). Also the upper rear cowling has about 6 screws in it, which are easy to remove, but it still won't budge. If anyone can give step by step directions, that would be great. Ross
  4. rjf123
    As expected, the dealer says "new engine", case closed. Agree with all the possible scenarios to repair, but not really something I want to get into. So the car will go. It's probably worth more in parts than anything else, and thus a breaker has offered me $5000. I'll probably take it, unless someone ups him substantially. It's on ebay here if anyone is interested: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/1999-Porsche-911-No-Reserve-/140611098893?pt=US_Cars_Trucks&hash=item20bd13190d Thanks everyone for your help. Ross
  5. rjf123
    Thanks, everyone. I'll let you know what the shop has to say. Ross
  6. rjf123
    Thanks very much. I will get it to the shop immediately. But answer me this, if you would... With the miles on the car it's truely just not worth that much. And the cost of a head replacement likely goes beyond what I'd be willing to put into a car worth (I'm guessing) $10k. (And that price assumes it's running!) So the car's probably a write off. That being the case, it's probably time to just trade it in and move on. My question is what will happen if I just keep driving it? (it actually goes fine) Will it die suddenly leaving me stranded, or a slow death blowing smoke and just get worse and worse? If the latter, how much time would you estimate I have to find a 997? Thanks, Ross
  7. rjf123
    My coolant light started flashing the other day. So I checked the coolant and it was very low, and it appeared like thick chocolate. I topped up the coolant with fresh porsche coolant and distilled water. Checked it the next day to find the pink color turned hot cocoa powder brown and thick. So I started reading the forum, and I think what I'm looking at is what poeple are terming "intermix". Can someone explain what this is, what the causes are, and why it's sounds so devistating to the engine? Before I rush to the dealer (as it sounds like may be necessary) is there anything I can do myself to try and diagnose and fix the problem? FWI, the car is a 1999 996 with 180000 miles. It's on its second engine which has 85000 miles. I did a recent oil change and saw nothing unusual - ie I didn't notice coolant in the oil. Thanks... Ross
  8. rjf123
    Hi All, I'm trying to do this fix, but I can't get the 2 screws behind the steering wheel to budge. I'm using a Torx screwdriver which feels like it's seating normally, but the screws seem much tighter than I would expect. Am I doing something wrong? Are these screws usually this tight? And should I just try harder? Thanks in advance, Ross
  9. rjf123
    Loren, I have a 99 996 C2 with 160,000 miles. Somewhere around 80,000 miles I replaced the springs / struts with the ROW M030 package. I've been very happy with this, but now the front struts are showing their age. There's a knock when going slowly over bumps and a vibration that sets up on some highways. My question involves replacing the struts without replacing the entire M030 kit. The spings and sway bars are fine, so I don't feel the need to spend dollars on them. But the struts alone (996 343 043 13) are twice the cost of the Bilstein sport (VN7-4613-M12) or Bilstein heavy duty (VN7-4612-M12) struts. Other than a couple of days a year, the car is really used for everyday driving. Can I safely use the sport or heavy duty strut with the rest of the M030 kit? I'd like to preserve the ride height and obviously not create a dangerous situation. If it is ok, which of the 2 struts (sport or heavy duty) will better match the M030 kit? (the Bilsein web site says the sport is firmer and for a lowered car, but I wanted to hear your opinion) Thanks in advance, Ross
  10. rjf123
    Thanks Loren. Agree it looks corroded. I think I need a bigger hammer! Ross
  11. rjf123
    How do you remove the ABS speed sensor from the front wheel carrier? I removed the screw, but the sensor won't budge. Seems incredibly tight for an electric sensor, maybe I'm doing something wrong? Also, once out, any tricks to reinserting it?? Thanks in advance... Ross
  12. rjf123
    The headlight adjustment procedure is in your Owners Manual. Thanks Loren! Well, I replaced the headlight switch today. No problem doing the replacement, but my lighting problem remains exactly the same!! The new switch didn't solve the problem. :( Where should i look next? It strikes me as interesting that all the problems are on the right side. Could this be a problem with the turn signal switch cluster? Thanks again, Ross
  13. rjf123
    Thanks so much! Ross
  14. rjf123
    My headlights starting acting strange last week, and seem to be getting worse with time. Initially, the right parking light was out. I tried new known good bulbs to no effect. Then, i noticed that with driving lights on, the right parking light would come on, but only dimmly. A few days later i noticed that with the driving lights on, the right flasher wouldn't flash. (It would work fine with the driving light off!) Then today, the right high beam stopped working properly: it only comes on dimmly, and when the high beams are on, the driving lights come on dimmly (even when they're turned off) and the right flasher again won't work! All fuses look fine. The right headlamp cluster plug and socket look ok. I did a search: am i right to conclude that i need a new headlight switch? Thanks, Ross
  15. rjf123
    Thanks. I'll do some more poking around. Ross
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