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Well I changed mine out twice with the Bosch unit. They also make the Porsche one that you get at the dealer so it's kinda the same thing. I found another manufacturer that makes a beefier unit and have been using that one for awhile. No problems since. It's an after market part made to OEM specs. I'm trying to see if I can get a hold of 100 of the units and have them available to the people here for modest price. I can't tell you how much people here have helped me out with great tips and advice.
I was talking to my mechanic about why the mafs go out so often on the boxsters. He enlightened me the fact that the sensors can burn off just about anything except silicone. He said the silicon that is on the road surface or directly from your tires gets sucked in through the air intake and sticks to the metallic parts of the sensors. This is what causes them to go bad. He also pointed out that the stuff I was using to make my tires look wet has silicone in it. I have stopped putting the stuff on my car. I even used to shine up the vents on the air intake. So if you are going through maf sensors this may be the cause. Thought I'd put it out there.
I have a 2000 2.7 boxster that I just changed the maf on. Part number 996606124/0280218009 was changed with the same numbered part. Now when I shift gears the car revs to 3000 rpm then comes back down and seems to catch and accelerate quickly. If I ease off and try to be gentle with it, it still seems to have the over rev. The car runs hotter now too. I don't remember it doing that before the maf change. It may have, I'm just not sure. Are these symptoms of the clutch going or is it a maf problem? Idles great now and all else seems ok.
Yes and it worked for a while. I used CRC MAF cleaner but it's dead now. Need to replace. I have a company that will rebuild it for $180 plus $30 for shipping. I just don't know if I trust a rebuild and the turn around time is long. I found one on partsquick.com for $238, but they are back ordered. Thanks for the advice though, you guys have been a great resource for info on my 2000 Boxster 2.7.
If your airbag light is on, you can only turn it off with a PST2, PIWIS, or a Durametric unit. Since both you and your friend have Boxsters, it would be a good investment to get a Durametric unit. The basic one allows you to work on up to three cars, and cost only twice what some dealers will charge you to reset the airbag light. It has many other useful functions and will pay for itself in no time. Regards, Maurice. Thanks for the info. Where can I get one?
Anyone here in the Orange County Florida area? I bought my black 2000 Boxster in '05 and my friend bought a blue 2002 "S" last year. We would like to hear from people in the area that can show us how to keep his in great shape and get mine back up to speed. I just recently had a bender and cracked my plastic bumper in front. Minor passanger side fender ding. It blew my battery though, replaced with an Optima red. I also have a key remote that stopped working and after changing the 15 amp fuse on my central unit my airbag light is on. I have a great time with the car though. I've owned three other Porsches before, mostly front engine models, and this by far is my favorite. Mid engine cars rule. Thanks to all for all the great tips and how to sections, keep up the awesome work. This is a great forum.
bermuditis replied to natzee's topic in DIY Articles - Boxster (986) - Common Fixes and RepairsI just fixed my horn using the silicone. Let you guys know how it goes. Thanks to all for always providing the best info. :notworthy:
I have a 2000 Boxster I bought last year. I have recently changed the ignition switch as per the forum but now my oil pressure light comes on after the car has been running for an extended time. I have heard a sound similar to a belt going bad. This never happens when it is just started and cold. Has anyone ever changed or has any information on the oil pump? It is a 2.7. Thanks.
Everytime I turn the ignition on my 2.7 2000 boxster, the oil light and various lights flick on and off and in the engine I hear clicking but no start. Battery is at 3/4 charge, and once or twice it did start and then shut itself off as I put it in reverse. Any Ideas? I did recently change ignition switch as per article in this forum and it was sticking so I lubed after cleaning with automotive electrical parts spray. I got the swith on e-bay. Thanks in advance.