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Posts posted by Cesarfl

  1. Almost everymorning when I start my 1999 Carrera 996, I hear this rattling noise, it sounds like chains or something like that, Are the Variocam chains and tensioners a maintenance item that need to be replaced, My car is now 76,000 miles and runs very good, I track the car about 8-10 times per year any sugestions on what this sound is, it only happens when I first start the car in the morning, any subsequent starts are fine.

  2. Greetings All,

    New to Renntech; love the site and am very impressed by all the expertise and helpful posts available. I'm sure this has been discussed elsewhere (but I don't seem to be able to locate the relevant post). I have a 1999 C2 (6sp) with a Fabspeed performance exhaust (from cat back) fitted. Sounds great and the quality is excellent. Any suggestions for additional (mild) performance upgrades? I'm thinking of helping the engine breath better and consider putting in a cold air intake and/or revised plenum. I've read about potential problems resulting from air flow sensors effects and check engine lights. Also, would you recommend starting to think about an ECU upgrade? Thank you.

    Don't waste your money, not much you can do to the engine, other that supercharger upgrade about 10K, or buy a turbo 996 instead, other than that you are going to spend a ton of money for no more than 10 HP.

  3. I have Mo30 suspension with H&R springs, for street use is a litle harsh and somewhat bounces more, but its great for DE, my car really sticks very good and is very settle when turning, the only thing is that on our track in Cameron County, TX, is an old airport and we have very long straights were you can hit over 130 mph before braking for a turn or a sweeper, I have noticed that when braking on a uneven concrete track with H&R's the ABS reacts or better said overreacts and if you hit the brakes hard it takes much longer to brake than if you apply them slowly and avoid the ABS to come in. I guess the harder suspension and uneven track makes the ABS computer a litle crazy.


  4. Having just returned from a 6 month deployment, I was not surprised to find my '99 911 Carrera 2 with a dead battery (the friend taking care of her had been unable to visit for 2 months...), and I'm still sorting out a few nagging issues. The most significant is the driver's door window, I've done numerous searches and haven't found my exact issue listed:

    From inside the car, when I open the door, I can hear the usual sound that should signal the window lowering the 3/4 of an inch, but it only moves a tiny bit, if at all. However, the window switches work perfectly, being able to drive the window fully up (to the sealed position) and fully down. Additionally, the window WILL drive up to the sealed position (with the door open, but the window in the up and sealed position, I can push the window down to where it should be, thereupon when I close the door it will move up to the sealed position). This all started after bringing the car out of storage, before which there were no issues. I've tried the "window reset" described elsewhere (continuing to hold the button down after fully up and down), taken apart the door to investigate, and found no obvious issues.


    I had the same issue with my 99 C2, the problem you have is just the start of what is to come anyways, you will need a new window regulator in short time, it may take 1 month or 6, in any case the problem is the faulty regulator, you are looking at parts about $185.00 plus labor, if you are a level 5 (out of 10) mechanic you should be able to do it yourself, if you want an indy to do it calculate about $200 for labor.

  5. I lowered my car with HR springs. It's the second time I've done it on a 996. The first was a 2000 996, the second a 2002 C4S. The results are similar. In both cases I did not change the stock shocks. The car is an inch or slightly lower, and the ride is only very slightly firmer. Still a great ride but a definite improvement.

    How big of a DIY job was that, k996c4s? Did you have to have a special spring compression tool? Im not sure Ive seen any pics on this DIY and wonder if this is something I could do myself with normal tools...

    You will need a compression tool to remove the springs and shocks, I have ROW030 with HR Springs and the car tacks very well, specially at the DE , is a ltle rough on the highway but the control is awesome

  6. Stop by Vertex Auto this morning quoted me $900.00 with Porsche Original parts and in the extremely rare case that I need a flywheel another $700.00, Now that will be $1,600.00 Total vs. $3,000 from the Collection.

    IMHO, The collection is just ripping people off, and doesn't make much sense, Porsche's and Audi's are the brands they sell the most, and by scaring the customer base away all they are doing is not making the money they should be making. In the other hand, maybe they are just happy with the newer cars and the warranty service they offer and after the car is out of warranty they just don't care in retaining that business.

    Is a shame, Mr. Ken (CEO) at the collection should know that the boom in Miami is over, there are more foreclosures in Broward and Dade than ever, and many more to come, money is not flowing in town the way it used to be, and sure enough less Ferraris, Aston, Porsches, Lotus are hitting the road, he knows this, just my two cents.

  7. I just visited the collection in Coral Gables and spoke with a tech-advisor, He is quoting me a clutch for a 996 C2 the price of $2,000.00 and another thousand if I need a flywheel.

    Question 1, is the clutch replacement at the dealer really $2,000 bucks

    Question 2, How often flywheels are replaced and do you really have to do it because tech says they go bad everytime a clutch is replaced.

    I don't want to get ripped off by The Collection.

    Any comments

  8. Cosmos: You and me both. That "bucket of bolts" is the usual trademark sound of the failed intermediate shaft or other catastrophic failures. I hate to even read that description because your heart goes out to the person who's asking what that sound means.....it usually means $$$$$$ and heartache.

    Caesar....because it's not constant, it sounds more like the clutch....sorry to see this happen, but if it is the clutch, it's a whole lot better than the other scenarios.

    I know, I hope is not the engine, , I think is really something to do with the clutch, the minute I step on the clutch it goes away, anyways when I get bacjk frm Indianapolis Monday I am going to visit The collection and see how much and what the problem really is.

    I hope is the clutch or flywheel

  9. My 99 C2 with 70,000 miles has a very ugly sound coming from the transmission area, when the car idles you can hear noises like loose bolts on a can, as soon as I depress the clutch noise stops, if I let the clutch out it starts again. The sound is on and off and only at idle.

    Anyone with a similar sound.

    I have the original clutch on the car

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