CosmosC4S

I would say YES, the C4S already has a nice set of factory front spoiler and side skirts, which in my opinion, looks better than the aerokit. Adding the wing would just complement the overall C4S design.

That's a really cool tool!

I posted this at rennlist but seems nobody has answers for me, Can anybody help over here? Thanks!

Thanks guys! Here's the update: First, it's not the cap, nor is it the coolant tank. I checked and the cap has #...01 and the tank #...02 Besides, the engine bay was spotless clean. I suspected it to be either a hose or the water pump. Well, the independent shop is about 35 miles away. I didn't think I should take the risk. Had it towed today to the shop, they had the car on a dolly, coz' their flatbeds were being used. Doesn't make a difference to me, all 4 wheels are off the ground. I haven't got the bill yet, but he told me it's $3 a mile, and my insurance has free roadside assistance which pays first $75. Called my mechanic today, he said it was just a bad hose. Pheewww! But still...he did a pressure test, checked the whole cooling system, flushed and replaced coolant, and replaced the hose. He said there was barely any coolant left! I suspect it was coz' the car was lifted front higher than the rear on the dolly...I saw coolant dripping as soon as the tow guy finished setting up the car in that angle. He didn't say how much, but mentioned he spent 3 hours. This is a reputable independent Porsche master technician in my area, which I have just appointed as my mechanic, with strong recommendation from my 2 BMW mechanics. I'm kinda giving him a "test run", like a probation. Do you guys think 3 hours is fair for this job? I think he charges around $80-$85 (not very sure) per hr. He did tell me he's not known for "cheap" coz' he's only a little cheaper than the dealer, but rather his reputation is "quality". I'm also having him do a major maintenance *** inspection service on the car since I've just got it for a month. So it will be similar to a 75k service, with engine compression test and all...for about just over $800. Again, I have no idea at all about the $$$. He says the dealer would probably charge about $1300 for the same job, but he also claims he will definitely do a better quality job than the dealer! This is his own business. I was also very frank with him, told him I am a new Porsche owner, looking for a good and honest longtime personal mechanic, and IF at anytime I find out he's dishonest, I'm gone...and would spread the word fast. He laughed and assured me he is the man. So you veterans with all the experience, for starters, please tell me if the 3hrs labor for the cooling system job, and the $800+ for the service are reasonable. Thank you!

Thanks for the tip, nick. I checked the cap and the number on it ends 01, the tank itself has a number that ends in 02. So probably the cap and tank are both upgraded versions. After looking at the underside more, it looks more like a hose or waterpump problem. The engine bay is spotless with not one drop of coolant. But the underside is "sprayed" all over with coolant, from the center of the car and back. There are "drops" of coolant "hanging" everywhere like a high pressure leak did a good spray job. I wish I could lift up the car to have a look, if it's a hose, I could replace it myself. I've read about simple things like a bad clamp on a hose, etc. But if it's a waterpump, I'll leave it to the pro. I topped the coolant with bottled drinking water from work, it took about 1.5 liters (3 bottles).

Well, I joined the "Coolant Leak" gang today, after reading about such topics around the forums. I've noticed a little low coolant level past 2 weeks, topped it up, and it has remained pretty steady, maybe very slight loss. Temp has been normal, no leaks at all in garage. Then today, while I was driving, suddenly the "Check Coolant" light came on and the red light flashed on the temp gauge (even though the temp was at midway). So I drove slowly for another 3 miles, reached my work place. Looked at the coolant level and it was way low below min. 2 hours later, I went back and looked under the car, there was a puddle of coolant. My driver's side rear wheel was splashed with coolant on the inside, There was drips of coolant all over the underside of the car on the splash guards (plastic covers). I couldn't really see much with the car that low, but there were drips everywhere on the rear half of the underside. I'm thinking if I should drive it home 9 miles when it's completely cooled down and hose all the coolant off the underside... then tow it to the shop another time with an appointment. Or should I just tow it straight to the shop? Should I be worried with the coolant doing damage to any bodyparts down there? Insulation coating, rustproofing...etc?? Thanks.

I have noticed that in my seats as well. It's not the seat that's squeaking, it's the leather surface. Rubbing noises against my back especially, I don't think there's anything that can be done in my case.

I had the same problem and posted the same question in the 996 forum. For now it seems fine, I had looked under the seat and fumbled with the wires, so I guess I must have accidentally moved the chafed wire off contact with some metal part under the seat. I blew about 4 fuses before it finally worked, but something is not right. So, I'm waiting till it's cooler in the garage to take the seat off and look for the fault. Please keep me informed if you find anything. ;)

If that is the problem, you will want to adjust the front bumper cover not the front trunk lid. Thank you Loren, as always! :cheers: I did think about that same thing, adjusting the bumper cover. Reason is, the dealer I bought the car from did some paintjob on the bumper cover. I was wondering if he installed it a little off, it doesn't take much to disrupt that flush level.

Thanks Paul, that's what I've been reading from past incidences and comments. I hope it's normal and nothing is wrong. I started today with a puff of white smoke. Then I haven't seen any on the road, of course, I'm trying not to push it hard yet. I'm hoping to burn up any remaining oil in the cylinders driving easy and see what happens in a day or 2.

Thanks, I think you may be right. My trunk lid seems to be a very tiny bit higher than the bumper. I'm thinking to tape the gap with a masking tape and test drive it. That way, if the whistling disappears, I can focus on fixing the trunk alignment and know I'm not wasting my time.

Loren, my coolant level was at minimum level and I topped it up to the Max line with my tap water. My water is filtered drinking water and also has passed thru' the water softener. I hope it's all right, being the amount added was not significant, and I live in Florida?

I did a search but couldn't come up with anything on these forums here. There were several discussions on rennlist however on this white smoke issue. I've had my first white smoke encounter today. Scared the crap out of me! I thought I blew the head gasket or the engine! Strange thing is, engine was smooth as ever, pull was strong, not even a hiccup at any point. I was with a friend testing the car and was pushing it hard, flooring it now and then whenever the situation allows. Then at one end of the road, we made a hard u-turn and immediately floored it... That's when we first noticed the huge cloud of smoke in the rear view mirror. Stepped on the gas and another cloud. So we took it easy and when we were at my driveway, I opened the engine hood, no smell of burning oil, engine was idling smooth, exhaust was smooth with no smoke. Stepped on the gas a second, and a small puff of white smoke shot out of the exhaust pipes. Other than the smoke, everything seems normal. Oil on dipstick is around max level. Should I worry about anything, or should I have it checked out? I just don't want to waste time and money to take the car in for nothing if this is normal. Oh, another thing...on a tiptronic, if the engine is running with no load on neutral... if you step on the gas, will the engine rev up past 4k rpm? I tried doing that and it hiccups a sec at 3.5k rpm, then stops at 4k rpm. Is this normal for tiptronics, or is it related to the smoke issue? It revs fine in gear though. Thanks All!

I tried it with the sunroof open today, still hear the whistling. Window down...no change, so it couldn't be the seal..? Checked the front hood, all gaps seem aligned. Now...could it be the wipers??

Has any of you longtime 996 drivers experienced this before? I'm hoping it's a common issue with an easy answer. At around 60mph and up...I hear a whistling sound around the outside of my window area, or it could be at the top of my windshield...I can't be sure. It's pretty annoying, sounds like the antenna on a car if there is one. On my 540i, there was the same sound that was caused by missing jack-points rubber pads. It's strange how that was even possible if you have no clue...The rushing air at high speeds over the exposed hole under the car somehow "whistles" (like how you blow over an open bottle) and the sound is transmitted thru' the hollow framework right up to the windshield area!

I bought a packet of 5 pcs 30amp fuse coz' I was expecting war. Put one in, touch the lever, zapp! Put another one in, touch the memory button, zapp! Put yet another one in, and managed to move the seat, I was like "Yes!". Moved it back and forth, seat back down and up...no problem. So I quickly pressed the memory button and got it in my position before I have to drive like a retard again! I got a flashlight and looked under the seat, something has to be wrong, probably a chafed wire somewhere...I saw the bunch of wiring down there..."Woah!!! I'm not going there!" And so...it's good for now. I'm not touching the seat adjustments for now unless I have to. I'm just glad it's not the motor $$$. What do you experts figure out of this? Tom: I also heard about this issue with the Boxster from somebody else on rennlist. So judging from feedback from both of you, I would think some wire is chafed somewhere under the seat. Loren: How difficult is it to dismantle the seat? If it's just a chafed wire somewhere, I'm pretty confident I can find it with the seat turned over. It's just the wiring harness down there that's intimidating! And once I find the spot, it's just insulating it with some electrical tape, right?? Thanks All! :cheers:

Thanks for the tip, Loren! :cheers:

Yes Sir, it's a green 30amp fuse on the bottom row (I think it's the 3rd from left) If the fuse keeps blowing, does that mean the motor is fried...or just a short somewhere with the wiring? Another thing is before this happened, whenever the seat is moved backwards, it sounds tight and there is a squeaking/rubbing sound. Moving forward was normal and smooth. Maybe it chafed a wire somewhere?

My driver's seat blew a fuse, so I replaced it and it blew again the minute I pressed the memory button. Now I have to go get extra fuses to try it out. I have a feeling it might blow the fuse again. Is this an indication of a serious electrical problem?

Valid thoughts :clapping: I was in that situation, but finally opted for the tip. Manual is fun and engaging, but I had to put convenience on priority. Personally, I just hate traffic and one day I would probably get into trouble for my temper. So the tip would actually be a big stress reliever for me, and besides, performance wise, it's not too much of a difference.

Thank you Loren! :cheers: I will print these instructions out and bring it with me when I go to the dealer. I knew it was an issue with the remote programming not being done right.

Yes, I tried that as well. I thought the same and tried erasing the current key memory, then resetting a new memory, no luck. This whole thing is puzzling... If I lock the car with the new remote, and use the old remote to open, everything's good. If I lock the car with the old remote, and use the new remote to open, it screws up. So it seems it's the disarming with the new remote that screws up things. After disarming with the new remote, the seat moves to the screwed-up position. At this point, I press the 1 or 2 button and it stops. If I press the "key" button, it continues to the screwed-up position. As soon as I put the key in the ignition and turn it on, I can press the "key" button and it will move to my memory position! Go figure that one!

WOAH! That is scary, Are you still driving the car?

Thank you, 0586slb That's exactly what I did over and over but something is just not right with the new key. I guess I'll have to go back to the dealer. Should I try disconnecting the battery, then reconnect, and maybe that should erase any glitches in the memory settings? Will disconnecting the battery set anything else off that will cause need reprogramming at the dealership?

I had to buy one of those suckers too, cost $29! The parts guy had to carry the whole case of 30 sockets to my car to try them all out. I was scrutinizing it all over trying to determine and justify the price. I finally tried to convince myself that it was probably made of very strong material and wouldn't strip or break easily, considering the little small notches that actually hold/grip the lock bolt. So now this is a rude awakening! They break easily!? And the one I bought took 1-1/2 weeks to come in on order! :rolleyes: