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Westcoaster

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Everything posted by Westcoaster

  1. On MY03 it is on the underside of the front trunk lid.... Where is it on a MY06? Would like to confirm what the car has for options... Thanks!
  2. Did you get it to a mirror finish? I did mine and it is like a mirror. I'm currious why you went back to the satin finish. Close to a mirror finish, don't know, but maybe because the polished stainless tips on my RX-7 need to be polished about once a month and the smooth finish shows any imperfections. Sort of like gloss paint on a wall versus satin... So, I broke out the glass bead machine and satin is where it is at for now, the beads are quite gentle, not like sand so if I get the bug to try again I have only lost a bit of time.
  3. I would tend to agree, if the stronger clutch fits then it would a welcome addition. Hmmm, the clutch kit brochure I grabbed from the parts counter at the dealership listed what each of the kit's contained, from it none of the parts were the same between the .01 and .02, different plate, disc and bearing. 986.116.911.00 kit 2.5l (986.116.028.03 plate, 986.116.014.06 disc, 012.141.165.E bearing) 986.116.911.01 kit 2.7l (986.116.028.04 plate, 986.116.014.06 disc, 012.141.165.E bearing) 986.116.911.02 kit 3.2l (986.116.027.06 plate, 986.116.013.00 disc, 986.116.080.04 bearing) Jeff is the guy I have been trading emails with, not about this question, just buying the parts from them versus locally, which is why I wanted to get this sorted out.
  4. OK, I have been shopping around and have been getting conflicting information on the correct OEM (Porsche) clutch kit for my car... I went to the dealer with the following number 986.116.911.01, he said that's the old number and it moves up to 986.116.911.02 and gave me a price. I checked the various other online sources and it would seem that they list the .01 for a 2000+ non-S (2.7l) and the .02 for a 2000+ S (3.2l) Also check the part/price look-up here on the forum and found both listed, even the older one for a 2.5l engine. Soooo... Is it better to go to the .02 part number and use it with a 2.7l engine, possibly giving more holding power as compared to the original unit? Will the S clutch kit even fit (all of the individual part numbers are different, even the release bearing)? I was about to have Sunset Porsche send the works, but which one? No point in getting a deal on the older kit if the later one is the way to go, I only want to do this once. :( Thanks!
  5. While ordering the clutch parts, maybe I shoul have a pilot bearing on hand... Also, is this the number for the clear (euro style) side markers for a 2003 Boxster? 000.044.900.80 Thanks!
  6. Looking for the part number so I can check on the price, the clutch is close to needing replacement due to poor/hard driving by the previous owner... Could the flywheel need replacement as well? Thanks
  7. All of the mounting clips for the center lexan screen are held onto the roll bar with pop rivets, the complete mounting kit is about $25, you can get new clips for the lexan as well, the last set I got from eBay was about $10, but check with the dealer because they are likely not too expensive. Mine does not rattle, I can see it vibrate when I look at it through the rear view mirror, but nothing serious. One thing I may do, the same I did for the baskets behind the headrests, is to secure them with removable ty-wraps, one single black one at the bottom (almost invisible) will prevent the dissappearance of these expensive plastic pieces over the side (sure to crushed by the following semi ! :eek: ). To secure the lexan piece, I would consider drilling a small hole near the bottom so that a ty-wrap can be laced around the bar.
  8. Since the Boxster I own is only new to me, there are some existing dents that I will be getting taken care of. With my past car (RX-7) I swear that the metal was as thin as aluminum foil, just look at it wrong and... :eek: Anyway, the process that I have had outstanding success with is a process referred to a 'paintless dent removal', the technician is trained to use various spoons and hammers to carefully (slowly) work the dent from the inside to encourage the metal to return to it's original shape (memory). My RX-7 is dark blue, almost black and the company in my town (Dentex) can get most accessible dents out with a result that is nothing short of amazing. To date I have had over a dozen removed and I can not tell where any of the 'former' dents were, this car is 15 years old and completely dent free. Cost varies but seems to be directly related to number of dents and their difficulty to remove. I have had one dent cost $100 and a job entailing 8-10 cost $250, still all much better then bondo and repainting! When I get the time I will be taking the Boxster down for a session, and unless the metal used in the Boxster is unusual in some way I don't expect the results to be any different. I can dig up a before and after of one near the gas filler on the RX-7 if you are interested.
  9. As Boxster02 replied, there are kits on eBay that will chnage everything you need (pads too)... I am thinking of this as well, not only for cosmetics but because the rotors on my car a quite worn ( good excuse). I was thinking of Zimmerman crossdrilled/slotted with Mintex (redbox) pads...
  10. I think that you are right, from what was described to me there is a rubber membrane sandwiched between the 2 metal plates that make up the flywheel (dual-mass), this essentually acts as a shock dampener between the engine and the transmission. This is why the flywheel is generally replaced is worn or damaged versus machining the friction surface (machining may heat up and compromise the bond between the 2 halves). This may also account for the 'different' feel that these clutch systems exhibit. I noticed this as soon as I drove one for the first time, almost vague feeling. It would be interesting to see an exploded view of the clutch system and and cutaway of the dual-mass flywheel itself. Anybody know what these are worth to replace on a MY03?
  11. On my 2003, regular halogen lights, the previous owner removed and lost the back covers. I think that this is why the enclosures fog up worse the normal. Anybody know where I can get these? thanks, Al
  12. Ok, I have scanned the DIY article and I think this should be a reasonable project, so.... on my 2.7l Boxster. What kind of kit? Assuming the regular components, pressure plate, disc and release bearing. OEM? ie. CLUTCH COVER 986 116 028 04, CLUTCH DISC 986 116 014 08 (Sachs) and RELEASE BEARING 01E 141 165 B OR are there other choices? Feedback and experiences are welcome! Thanks, Al
  13. Good post, but I don't think so... The first thing they changed on mine was the upper strut bushing, that didn't fix it so I went back today. Today they said that the shock on the drivers side is shot (strange, worn out at 38,000 km!?) I am beginning to think my car was driven very hard by the previous owner! :o Luckily for me this is warranty work, hate to think that I would have to foot the bill for this. I would really like to get this up on a hoist and locate the trouble myself!
  14. No need to question the math B) your 11% diiference does that for us! I built a Boxster on the Porsche US website and then the same car on the Porsche Canadian website, in my example, the US car $62500 US and the CDN car $87750 Cdn... Appears to be much more then 11% ! Sorry, I don't buy in to the cost to "maintain a separate network and facilities to support their activities " as any reason for the immense difference. And what "administrative cost of doing business in Canada"? Hey, I'm not trying to pick any fights, I just think that we are getting taken, you don't work for a dealer do you? <_<
  15. I just got my car from the dealer, they replaced the left rear upper strut mount for this problem (appearently it was broken), but you guessed it the clunk is still there... :angry: To me it sounds like a bushing or suspension part is worn and when you turn right after traveling straight there is a single clunk as if some part of the suspension shifts over under load. It is unmistakable and can be reproduced easily. I plan to take it back and ask them to check again, but I would like to know what could cause this so I can ask good and leading questions. Do these cars use a panhard bar to center the rear suspension under the frame? Any ideas or suggestions are appreciated! Thanks
  16. Did some research - heres the story!! Transport Canada list all newer porsches and being able to be imported into Canada. There are requierements for daytime running lights but any Canadian Tire stor is authorized by our government to do the work. There a coule of fees at the border ( couple of hunderd dollars) and you have to pay teh GST (6%) opn importation and your provincial sales tax when you register the car. YOU CAN GO TO THE TRANSPORT CANADA web site and it explains how to do all this. Buying the car - talked to a dealer in New Hampshire- no problem from them as they have done it before! No sales tax in New Hampshire, Oregon, Montana. All vehicles are on the dealer web sites all across the US. He even hinted that they have doen this through Porsche Dealers in Canada! 2001 Turbo Loaded - 79,900 US Brand new Caymen s for 63,000 US! WARRANTY IS NORTH AMERICAN so thy have to service the cars! thanks Brian, very cool because Oregon is only a couple hours drive south of the border for me! I am going to look at what they have for Boxster S's... Maybe my next car will come from there!
  17. Thanks Cassiebox, door locks, duh (newbie here..) Orient Express, thanks for the link, the switch used in that post even looks like a garage door... FYI, the picture I used is from a kit being offered on eBay. http://cgi.ebay.ca/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewIt...mMakeTrack=true You know, I have space for switches on the left side of the radio/HVAC trim, might be a project in my future!
  18. I can only answer for the dealership in my town, they have US origin cars on the lot all the time (with CPO as well), in fact when I was looking they really tried to sell me one of these. So they would be hypocrits if they didn't service a US car, besides, what if you moved from one country to the other? I'm still with Brian on this one, somebody is making good money on the Canadian cars! Hey Brian are you sure about the new cars comming in duty free from Germany? I understand paying the provincial and federal sales taxes, my issue is that most of the US states close to me also charge sales tax, which there seems no way to avoid it (9.2% in Wa and 8.25% in Cal).
  19. Somewhere I read that this is for controlling a garage door opener? If this is true, where can I find out which garage door openers it works with and how to set it up? The actual switch is already in the dash, but I don't know what's up with the circuit board shown (or even if I have it). Thanks
  20. Maybe, maybe not. HST= harmonized sales tax? If so, this is actually a combination of the provincial sales tax and GST( only in some of the eastern provinces), neither of which the importer or dealer pay only the final buyer. If we are talking import duty paid by the importer, this is also charged if I were to bring a US sold (german built) car across the border, I believe in the case of Porsche it is about 6%, but this still does not come even close to the differences that Brian or I found when comparing MSRP, this is much higher! The way I see it there is a little more at work here then taxes or duty. US car $62,705 US x 14% exchange = $8,800 ($71,505 CDN) + 6% duty = $4300 ($75805) This car in Canada = $87205 Difference = $ 11,400 hmmmmm, I wonder if a local dealer would match this price?, No need to cross border shop then!
  21. Hi Brian, last week I was in San Diego and visited a Porsche dealership, man was this depressing, so many cars to choose from and I am from Canada... :( You see, about a month ago I bought a MY03 with 38,000 km's (Vancouver), in San Diego for a difference of $13,000 CDN I could have bought a MY06 brand new with more options! :eek: So I did the same thing you just did, went to the website (US and Canada) and built identical cars, a difference of $22,000! In fact the MSRP base price on a Boxster in Canada is over $10,000 more then a Boxster S in the US. You are right, daytime running lights (add one relay), an inspection by Canadian Tire and last but not least a load of "north of the border taxes" and you should be good to go. I don't know how you could play it out, but it seems like the up here in Canada we pay an awfull lot more to own a Porsche.
  22. So Chris (or any body who knows), is there an auxilary connector on the back of the CDR23 that allows the connection if an external device (like a MP3 player)? I don't have an iPod, just a generic MP3 player. This "cable/AUX-in" connector... from Becker? can you provide a link? Thanks!
  23. Al; I have a B&M short shifter installed. Looks alot like that one. The handle does stand up straight in neutral. The best part is shifting with a simple rotation of your wrist. Your arm does not have to move. Jim Greer Hey Jim, a couple of things, does the stock shifter knob fit on these and does it sit in the correct position for neutral? (Boxstaboy's comment has me concerned...) Thanks, Al Westcoaster, honestly, I would forgo the ebay clone shifter because it won't sit straight up in neutral after installed. It will be angled slightly toward the driver. It works fine, but the fact that it didn't look stock after installation would bother me if I put it in my car, and might bother the next buyer of your car too. IMHO, go for either the B&M shifter or the Schnell. They may cost a little more, but both sit in the correct position when installed. All 3 (Ebay, Schnell, and B&M) will accept the stock shift knob btw. Thanks, I'll check them out.
  24. So just so I have this all straight... For a MY03, the amp is likely a 6x40w unit (where is this label to check?) The dash is a 4-1/2 coaxial (strange mine looks like the cover has room for speakers side by side?) The door has a tuned enclosure that holds a 5-1/4 coax (need to remove the enclosure to go larger?) What type of connector is required to access the third (rear) cahnnel off of this amp? I already have nice 4" mids, 1" carbon tweeters and 6-1/2" mid bass speakers available for the front and a great set of 4x6 coax speakers for rear fill. :) Thanks!
  25. Al; I have a B&M short shifter installed. Looks alot like that one. The handle does stand up straight in neutral. The best part is shifting with a simple rotation of your wrist. Your arm does not have to move. Jim Greer Hey Jim, a couple of things, does the stock shifter knob fit on these and does it sit in the correct position for neutral? (Boxstaboy's comment has me concerned...) Thanks, Al
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