GreggT

2001 and she seems to have a slow leak.....dribbling down onto the shroud, then garage floor.

And darn....appears that the differential has to come out for tank replacement, since the tank kinda 'yokes' over the differential....ie tank on both right, left, and top of differential.

If you site up the right side of dif you can see dampness coming down the back side of tank (above it's mid-seam line).

I'm going to experiment with keeping it below half full to see if that has any effect.

Never heard of this before on 996TT but maybe I've missed it.

What do you want to achieve?

If you lift the wing and then remove the wing, you can then remove each ram independently from the engine lid. Once the ram is removed, you can remove the circlip at the wing end - be careful as the spring will jump out at you.

Then the rams are in pieces and can be rebuilt - if you can find suitable generic parts...

Thanks for trying to help......what I am trying to achieve:

Remove wing without having ram shafts pop down, out of site into tail base.

I have a different custom wing that I wish to attach.....I have no desire (at this time) to re-pair my hydralics.....down poistion is fine for new wing that I have.

Anyway......I believe I have devised a method (with a couple clamps I started making) to do what I am after....i.e hold the shafts from retracting yet enabling them to be turned for engagement with tool).......and I have gone from the 'towel' method for support......to a method of two bike inner tubes folded on under ea. side....then inflated.

Wish me luck........what crazy stuff we do for these cars :)

OK, the challenge......the hydraulics are broken so I can not raise the wing via the switch......but I still have a reason that I want to remove and then re-attach the wing.

She's held down tight to the lower tail base with what?.....just heavy duty springs in the two ram hydraulics?

No way to disingage the springs....or lessen the tension?

I can pull the wing up and wedge towels under it......but if I use the tool and disconect, those support posts will snap down into the tail base.....never to be seen again.

Ideas welcome........(besides, replace/fix your hydraulics Gregg) :)

TIA

Result here was a bad wiper motor......defective and shorting since day one.

The electrical short was present immediatly with ignition on........pretty hot.....could smell it....could have been a hazard.

Replaced under warranty.....done.

Pocket readers will not pick up all fault codes.

Check your brake lights (for PSM/ABS light problem).

Find someone with the Durametric software, a PST2, or PIWIS tester to read your car's faults.

Yep thanks.....shop has PST2, I'll get her in.

Curious if anyone's seen this.

Idle at stop and she throws the CEL with PSM, ABS light

Pocket reader says nothing.

At re-start, nothing....all fine.

Any thoughts welcome.

Thanks in advance.

Just finished install my V1 on the new 2009 C2S PDK couple days ago, the easiest way (in my opinion) is to tap into the interior light pod, if you need information you can look here....

http://www.renntech.org/forums/index.php?s...lentine+install

Good luck; love the arrows on V1.

The interior(dome) light witring is not really the ticket for someone using V1Remote also.....would require V1 splinter up top somewhere as well as routing power down along with the remote wire.

I was successful in tapping an unused switched slot in the main block......and plugged in one of those add-a-fuse connectors..........thanks to all.

You are talking 997.2?

Bluetooth with appropriate HSP and PBAP is the way to go.

No way I'd mess with plugging in Sims from different phones.

Do the 997s have the telephone plug behind the center stack? Mine has both switched and unswitched.

Ah...yah.......a 997.2 with PCM that includes Serius, BlueTooth, HandsFree,Nav,Alt audio,(and conventional radio)........looks like an AT&T wiring hub back there. :D

I'm going in with a probe and voltmeter tonight........wish me luck.

Anyone come up with an workable place to tap 12V switched under the dash?.....to power V1, Blinder, etc.

I can't even find an open slot in the fuse block with power.

.....and golly, lots has sure changed under the dash from 986 and 996 :D

I can't seem to find time to get back to dealer......w/my wifes new C4S Cab.

Flip the windshield wiper stalk and the wiper arm lurges 'down' about a half inch and stops.

So it's going completely in the wrong direction (for a half inch)......any ideas welcome.

Either have time find time to get in to dealer.......or buy some more rainex.

I have it all apart right now......& I have had it apart several times recently when I added 2nd intake scoop and CF air box.

Just didn't seem to make alot of sence to start the bleed process when there's no evidence of leakage...so thought I'd throw it out for other ideas.

Seems likely that something's up with the hydralic pump since neither ram comes to life....(though the pump sounds like it's wkg hard).

Wow.....this is an old thread.....but I know it's ongoing problem for those still using the OE wing....so I'm pulling it from archives, rather than creating (yet another) spoiler-error thread.

Luckily I have somehow been able to avoid the problem till now......but she did stop working the other day.

Any advice would be welcome.....if I'm unable to easily rectify Iwill probably make the move to a fixed wing.

Micro switches test out OK.

No evidence of any fluid leak anywhere.

Right now the wing is not deploying at all.

The pump sounds like it is functioning when dash switch is engaged.....(click..rrr..click..rr..click..rr.....).

But when she sences that the wing has not made it up, I get the error.

Is bleeding off the system my next step?......if I have lost fluid & pressure I'm surprised I do not see a leak.

Caliper, rotor, hub and wheel "moves perfectly together" as you stated, there should be no difference in theory. 1/8" is not that much, in case of road debris enters between the caliper and the inner side of the wheel, and what with the wheel balance weight ?

Wheel balance weights would be on the 'rim' (inside of the barrel).

The "less than 1/8" I'm talking about is between the flat outer surface of the caliper and the inside of the wheel spokes or wheel centers.

This is not necessarily a 997.2 question.....really for any recent-year Pcar, but I'll ask it here since it does involve winter fitments for a new 09 C4s.

I am testing use of winter fitments that I have used on 2001 Turbo and on a 2002 C4 .... and finding that the front calipers on the new C4s sit 'out' further into the wheel than in the past (this explains the slight dif in spoke lay-out, front vs rear, on the new Carrera SII wheels, that close observation reveals).

These winter wheels clear the outside surface of the C4s front red calipers, but just barely....less than 1/8" between the outside surface of the caliper casing and the inside surface of a wheel (spokes). I would just a soon not add a small spacer to push the wheel out.

I should know more about front suspension movement & geometry but, is less than 1/8" enough?.....i.e. with suspension travel and normal bumps & jumps, does the position of the caliper move at all relative to that inside wheel surface?.....or do they always move perfectly together.

In other words, if the wheels 'clear' the calipers while she's sitting up on jacks in my garage......will they always clear going down the road?

Thanks in advance for any input.

OK both systems use 13" rotor 4 piston, but ..... has anyone seen comments on any dif in size they may have?

Phrasing the question differently ... a wheel fitment accomodates 996TT OE brakes .... so I probably can assume 997.2S brakes shouldn't be an issue .... right?

For 09 North Am cars ... anyone seen the OE ride height numbers or know where I can find em?

I am curious on front-n-back for both the regular PASM and then for the PASM Sport (20mm) ... and I guess I wouldn't necessarily assume it's a simple 20mm dif on both ends ... remembering the different front-rear (rake) numbers on the 996 family.

Reason for my madness is .... I need a good point of reference. I have an in-bound C4S Cab with reg PASM (20mm not avail on this side of the pond) .... and looks like one of my early moves will be going to Damptronics (assuming Bilstien confirms 997.2 application).

Back on the 996 our measure point for height on the front was that bolt head .... and on the rear, the flat spot on the sub frame (not true on GT2 but good on the others) .... so, not being '997 familiar' .... I guess I am also wondering if these guys have the same measure points.

TIA

And.......not drain oil from Turbos?

So is there a requirement to drain the turbos of oil??

Any DIY I've seen (and any reference to shop manual I've read) has included that.

And.......not drain oil from Turbos?

Any info on when they will be available?

Original Press Release said...."will go on sale in Sept".

This is a 1995 C4............did that windshield part number change from 1994?

I found an old TSB that says: "...the gap between the glass edge and the car body should be

sealed with Bostic 6050 (999.915.299.40)."

Interesting Loren..........does it sound like that Bostic 6050 is the sealant used for the whole job?......or just for filling that gap?

I was not around for the install but last notes I had from my last glass change said Porsche detailed a2-part adhesive to 'set' the window......my scribble says 000-043-203-42 two-part epoxy.......but, like I say, I was not there this time.

That gasket is narrow and barily covers the gap........even if the glass is centered well .

I think I recalled a post some time ago where I think there was a reference the goop actually holding the gasket in place? I know some people fill the gap (between surround & glass) with goop or sealer just to lower the chances of the squeek.....but, can it also be for holding that gasket in place so it can't move & curl in ??

Anyone have a part book handy to tell me the part number of this right rear interior vinyl panal on an 02 Cab?.......TIA

dittos,but i can't get the suction cups on mine to stick to my new 996 windshield....

Suction cups......who uses "suction cups" in a Porsche.