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Everything posted by GreggT

  1. OK so.....what is possible after 1.47?......which dates back to the original 997.2 production. I see in other threads......2.24, 2.4, 2.47 .
  2. How have others dealt w/this issue? I see that the part originally was $300. however the only way I can see to replace it now is to somehow buy all the individual components and 'build-my-own' 997 201 22104......at about twice the original cost. The car throws P1487 codes immediately after cleared. The dealership indicates they are 95% sure it needs the whole canister.....not just a new filter. Suggestions welcome. Thanks in advance.
  3. No....it's a separate part.......apparently different than the simple 'blade piece' that is on C2s. We now have another part ordered that is a good guess......will see when it arrives if it is. Thanks.
  4. This is on the wife's 2009 C4S Cab......and is forward of the rear wheel. This is a soft rubber flap. Obviously the driver's side one was clipped and needs to be replaced. We have the dealership stumped on what this part # is.......and I have spent much time at the parts counter looking at the many part illustrations........I do not see it either.....but I can't imagine that it isn't something others have had to replace at some time or other. Any ideas welcome. Thanks in advance.
  5. His name is synonymous with the 911 and known to everyone in our community of enthusiasts. You will be missed Bruce.....RIP.
  6. Yep......I'm trying to come upn w/a better tool for that. Have already tried with the normal compliment of weapons in my bag of tricks......have been cautioned by those who sell the aftermarket CF pieces for up there that the 5 clips under ea. side are fairly snug (ah, yep) and, as you say Loren, may break. I'll get it....was just trying to not make more work for myself.....if I coud. Thanks.
  7. As a followup.....removal of the right and left defroster grill apparently is a real challenge. This is the long thin grill at the base of the windshield and to the left & right of the center security node.....and they are held (securely) with clips on their underside. Anyone with a trick or technique for prying these up.....much appreciated.
  8. I did see the post with link to the Pelican site on the instrumnet cluster removal.....easy. But what I need is removal of the center console piece (where it meets top dash).....as well as air bag face panel. I'll assume the leather spkr surounds s/be easy. Bottom line is....this is the old problem of the 996/996TT dash leather drying, and losing it's adhesion to the dash below it.....it thesn puckers / bubbles / and eventually shrinks, pulling back from the long defrost vent hole at base of the windshield. I have a leather guy that feels it's fixable.....but needs to come in from the r
  9. For 996 Carrera/Turbo/etc......I did a search. I did see the link to the Pelican site for removal of the instument cluster....that's straight forward.....good. But I'd like to see both removal of the center cluster as well as the air-bag face. the speaker grills s/b easy. Bottom line is.....this Turbo has the fairly common issue of the dash-top leather shrinking, first separating from it's base, bubbling/puckering, and then shrinking and pulling back from the long defrost vent. I have a good leather guy that's fairly confident he can tackle this but needs those panels off in order to
  10. Loren.....I'll see if there is a way to check function of that bleeder.......assume you are talking about up-top at the fill cap? JP.....thanks for 'clip variety' info. Your part numbers are dif than the one part number I supplied, so I assume mine must be the cap & appropriate clip combo? I've never held one of these buggers in my hand........assume there is a removable cap of sorts that the (correct) clip holds in place? TIA
  11. I searched for past comments on this, couldn't see any but maybe mised them somewhere. This is 01 Turbo but the part is probably same on reg 996......the Radiator 10D clip--plug is #996-106-545-71. In hot-hard engine use they have been known to blow out......in my case, at the track.....not good. Talking w/others, they have heard of a better, more permanant fixe than just replacement of the OE clip. Can anyone share any info or point me in the right direction?.....TIA. I'll throw this over on the 996 board also, if I may.
  12. Thanks. OK I should have been more clear.....here is some additional info. PSM does not display a fault. But really it wouldn't.......and now, with more thought, I'd take back my comment that PSM is even involved. PSM intervenes when the line of travel of the car is out of sorts (slides, etc), and it's brain takes into acount 4 or 5 factors involving lateral acceleration, steering position, speed, etc. Straight line 'herky-jerky' (2nd gear 3500 RPM) would not be the PSM's area......and having it's switch on/off makes no dif. for the issue I am experiencing. I'm back to the 3%. I
  13. I think there is common info out there that for PSM and all-wheel......that the front-rear difference in tire-wheel diameter or circumference should be kept under 3 or 4%. But.....do newer 997.2s actually need that 3%? Sounds strange but right now it's all I can think of. From my math and various tire-wheel calculators on-line it appears that OE tires & wheels (both 18s and 19s) have around a 3% dif in the front-rear number.....the rear being the on up 3%. OK...so my winter setup actually has identical running diameter or circumfrence front to back.....and that's by my design as it
  14. OK thanks. I guess.......I'll just request it along with alignment at next stealership visit. In ten yrs I don't believe I've ever seen it on a service ticket.......the car has significant suspension modifications, is tracked during the summer, and has alignment every spring......but possibly never this.
  15. Not sure where I've been but......this was the first time I'd ever heard this. On another board some one had commented that after the suspension had been changed, that........the steering angle sensor needs to be calibrated.......that it requires use of a PST2.......that the wheels need to be in the straight ahead position when this is done.......that there is danger of injury and damage due to malfunctions in the PSM control range if the steering angle sensor is not calibrated or calibrated incorrectly. Anyone know how true this is.......or the level of importance? Thanks in advance
  16. First, the rain sensor results in the calipers getting a light, constant, precharge, so that shouldn't be the source of the pulsing. The "pulsing" you describe is the same feeling I get in our '01 F/awd RX300 when applying the brakes lightly in the wet and on a slight downhill incline. The dealer ascribed it to the EBD, Electronic Brakeforce Distribution, the automatic, dynamic, shifting of braking forces front vs rear to take optimal advantage of braking at both ends. Thanks.....I may have missunderstood the explanation that had been giving me but.....don't think they meant there was
  17. Anyone heard of this? Wife's C4S with under 10K and a baby'd car........on a drive trip to VA, in the rain at interstate speed, I feel an anoying pulse in the pedal with brake application. Much slower pulse than ABS and if I had to liken ot to anything it would be the way a warped rotor feels. A couple days later, the sun is out.....it occurs to me that the brakes no longer have that feel. They are fine. I asked for an opin at the dealership and they gave me an explanation I had never heard before. Rain sensor tells brakes that it's raining. Brakes then (automatically) engage in light
  18. Is it 996.606.125.01 ?.......and is there a Bosch number for same? My notes say that the progression from 2001 is something like this: 996.606.124.00 996.606.125.00__and after this some used 986.606.125.01 996.606.125.01 Am I close here?.......and I assume these are all roughly compatible. TIA
  19. OK....the best guess is that it's a malfunctioning seal is located where the neck inserts into the tank......and unfortunately, that seal is apparently inside the tank.......worse yet, it is 'part of' the tank. The assumption is that the neck inserts to this internal seal. The rings illustrated as 16 & 17 are not seals.......17 is actully a soft foam, 16 is basically a metal washer. None of this can be accessed from up top.....you can barely reach in and with a couple fingers touch the foam ring. Expensive.
  20. Thanks for the illustration....it helps. And yep.....I'm still trying to understand the diognosis so far....will be talking with them again today.
  21. Anyone heard of this? Apparently that seal up top is attached to the tank (not the neck).....wish I had a parts page to better visualize. When the tank is full I have a slow gas leak. Of course that tank staddles the center subframe /differential......so much of the front end has to come a part.. It's looking like labor probably will be as much as parts......bummer. I was just looking into a fuel cell conversion but that would be around $6K. This is a fluke......is it not?
  22. Nah...everything is OK and dry up there. Still a puzzle.
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