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rsfeller

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Everything posted by rsfeller

  1. rsfeller
    I need the fix and part number for the metal frame that often fails on the 4 spoke horns. Mine 100% stuck on (horn) and I would rather replace the part then try a hack/fix. additionally I need to know the part for the drivers side outside window rubber as the felt is rubbed off the back (inside) of mine...thus it folds under the window when being rolled down. Hope this is how to request parts!
  2. rsfeller
    Based on those specs it appears that the AC is operating as expecting...the sensors or control valve is obviously not allowing enough flow from the "hot side" then. I would assume there is a flap that shifts the mix from the AC flow side to the heater core side like most automobiles. As much foam as my car has shooting out the air vents I'm still thinking that foam may have either clogged up the heater core some or posibly wedged itself inot the mix flap (seen that happen on my Vw Eurovan once)...but the sensor idea is most likly dead on too. I removed the cockpit temp sensor on the pass. side this evening and blew and cleaned off the sensor. It was amazingly caked with dust. Again I've seen this on my Saabs and a cleaning has been know to solve problems...but not today! I have an email into my regional PCA.org for recommendation on shops or owners of PST2. I'm sure they will want me to join before sharing good info! Do you happen to know what perks other then events/meetings/racing belong to PCA.org is? Are their tech documents good or the basic info I can already get on great BB like this? Funny they want you to join but do a poor job of explaining the perks of joining (IMHO).
  3. rsfeller
    Thanks for your comments, I did see that post and was not happy with the "gummi" solution. I'm pretty darn sure from inspecting the rubber strip underside and then looking more toward the mirror and the pass. side that the felt is missing or thin from about 1/2 way toward the back where it grabs first. This is not allowing for a smooth connection between the two materials. We even tried "bending" the rubber back but it's true to form and returns 100% to normal tension We tried rain-x on the window and a light silicon on the rubber (yes I know silicon and rubber are not good friends) and this didn't even remotely help. I do like the talcum idea but doubt it would hold very long. Today was a cooler day ouside and the window was stopped in it's track which is not good for the motor. Goes back up like a champ. I'm quite sure I'll have to replace the rubber but am curious how difficult it is to get it apart!
  4. rsfeller
    Loren, thanks for taking the time to research and copy/paste. Very informative information...but I'm not seeing my answer about the AC compressor running ALL the time. I love to drive myself nuts with theories when I know the PST2 is my only sure answer. Does this information come from a factory Tech CD (Bentley DVD?) or another source, I'm curious. Shawn
  5. rsfeller
    I noted that if I take the AAC off of AUTO and put the temp on 85 it will begin to get warm if the A/C is disengaged. Even knowing it is 60F outside this evening and I have the AAC on 85 the AC trys to engage. Now I know AAC systems will use the AC compressor for de-misting and they can run often...but should not the AC compressor be disengaging when ambient temp is far below the setting on the AAC? I will get the car into a shop with the PST2 soon...but I'm curious if the AC is basically always running on the 986 or is it a symptom of my failure in the system.
  6. rsfeller
    jnc. took the fresh air filter out today and saw the foam you mentioned. i took a small metal tooth brush and scrubbed what remained (and glue) from the side. I then vacumned it out. I am curious if this solved your problem? I cannot image that little spot produced all this foam that has been coming out. My experience with other european manufatures is that foam may line in the entire inside of the duct system...which means it could keep coming out forever! So if you foam stopped shortly after removal of that foam under the filter, I'll rather optomistic!
  7. rsfeller
    the drivers window almost stalls going down as the rubber on the outside of the window that keeps the water tight seal doubles over and wedges between the window door. Best I can tell is the felt on the inside has come off not allowing for a smooth mate between the rubber and window. Can anyone comment or support this idea? Anyone replace this rubber and how involved is it?
  8. rsfeller
    Thanks. If they get that specific with flap operation that is what I hoping for...as it could be the drive that turns the valve for the water flow. Had them go bad before on other cars with automatic climate control. Since this car spent it's entire life in Miami it may have seized shut from lack of movement! Out of curiousity is there a recommended list of "indie" shops anywhere on your list here? Place where the members talk good/bad (review) them? I have yet to find a Porsche indie in Columbus Ohio that anyone knows personally and since I'm an hour away I don't want to make a bad choice!
  9. rsfeller
    Yes, it will just show faults (at this time). It will not show any actuals or run any tests. 180-190 is normal. It is advisable to clean the leaves and other debris from inside the front bumper openings at least once a year. The front bumper comes off pretty easy (see my 3rd radiator DIY in the 996 DIY mods section). With the front bumper off you can really clean both the AC condensers and the engine radiators. I have no faults with the Durametric so I understanding this based on your comment that the AAC control is fine? Do you have any suggestions of what to consider for my lack of AAC heat?
  10. rsfeller
    ****. Doesn't seem to be much failure on the board with the AAC system. I have foam coming out everywhere when the fan is on high. Some members have suggested pulling the cabin filter and that I should be able to grab a good portion of the offending foam from that direction. Do you know where the heater core is in the system (still haven't got my bentley) as I'm wondering if the foam has severly comprimised the heater core. posibly foam prior to the core. Loren, do you know if the Duremetric (or porsche tester) shows AAC faults? The Duremetric has a grouping called Air Conditioning but since their support is very limited I'm curious if that is strictly with the AC Compressor or the entire AAC (as I have no faults). Lastly what is idea operating temp on the gauge? I am running about 190F which seems fine. Usually a low heat feel is a bad thermostat (stuck open) on traditional cars but usually the temp gauge is low to support that theory. Comments?
  11. rsfeller
    What is the "special offers" page you speak of? Shawn
  12. rsfeller
    TP, Why did you have this sensor out...are they prone to going bad? I'm really having trouble figuring our the AAC system. Even with the heat on HI I still get cool air from the center vents while the floor or deforst will produce warm air. Is this normal?
  13. rsfeller
    Good point. I'm usually pretty good about researching for a go crazy with questions but I thought I missed something that was implied! Will read.
  14. rsfeller
    I would guess very expensive on a controler, just curious if a common failure trend. I am guessing your P-Code Tool could complete disable the alarm system if the controller failed, care to venture a guess? I know they can turn off quite a bit of security functions. What do you mean by reverse/reboot trick a P-Code Tool like yours to reset alarm codes? thanks.
  15. rsfeller
    Noted that my heater doesn't pour "hot" heat from the vents when on high temp. I would call it warm at best. Fans seem to respond as expected as does AC. Any commen failure trends with ACC? Thermostat? (running 185-190F on temp gauge, looks good) Failure of motors or flaps? (I do hear things moving around in there without funny sounds!) Or do these cars just not do "hot" from the ACC due to their config or cockpit size? Is there a calibration procedure for the ACC computers? Toolpants to the rescue!
  16. rsfeller
    Yes, but it could be intermittent.eek! Intermittent = bad Any failure trends on the car side of this code as opposed to the keys? Again we tested both keys...should I replace batteries, or does this have nothing to do with it? (as the keys work from a good distance of locking/unlocking the car). Any posibility this code could come from a re-coded key? Looks like I may need to run this past a shop with the "real deal" code tester you have. Since I just got this car (63K miles) and know little service history I may have a shop kick a few tires on things.
  17. rsfeller
    Ha! since I didn't notice it with the vehicle running I'm assuming the fan is operating as should be! I get pretty crazy with my used toys at first and with the Durametric software I jumped right in head first. I was known as a "nut job" on my Vw Vanagon board with my questions the first two or three months. Then I started giving seminars on those buggers I was so involved! Most likly will do the same with this toy. I tend to get paranoid at first especially when I start reading TSB about failing fuel pumps (calm down Shawn). I expect the worst and hope for the best so far I'm very happy with my lack of error codes. Standard concerns only so far: Very worn tires and vibrations SRS Belt Buckle concern (will try contact cleaner fix first) Horn (of course it doesn't work it's a 4 spoke wheel!) fuse must be pulled Odd alarm codes that most likly don't mean much ACC heat doesn't get very hot (only warm) will post this concern soon
  18. rsfeller
    This says that the alarm controller is not getting a signal from your key fob transponder. Try another key or you could have a bad key fob (transponder). Interesting...shouldn't a lack of a transponder code prevent the car from starting? So this really not a fault and the system (motion monitor) is most likly working? It simply is stating it once registared (something) that was not big enough to trigger the alarm?
  19. rsfeller
    This just means that the battery was disconnected recently. I think it is just there to warn that perhaps someone was trying to defeat the alarm (except in this case it was likely you or someone else trying to clear codes). The ABS light simply means that a problem or fault has been detected in the ABS system. It may or may not be working. Did you use the Durametric Software to check for ABS codes? If the contact cleaner fix does not work then you will need new belt buckles as described in the TSB. Yes I did use the Durametric software. I didn't mean ABS I did mean the SRS (air bag) which I think you understood. ABS is 100% OK. Any ideas why Durametric cannot reset Alarm codes? Is this a Porsche concern with people trying to tamper with stolen vehicles or such?
  20. rsfeller
    While testing the car tonight with the my Durametric on my new (to me) 1997 986 I was amazed at the hum from the back of the pass. side air bag area. I turned the ACC fan off and had the car ignition set to on. I'm used to fuel pumps not running all the time. Could someone confirm this is the fuel pump or is this a fan that runs all the time with the ignition in the ON positon?
  21. rsfeller
    Regretably durametric doesn't have the ability to reset alarm codes. I have two and again the link on the durametric page doesn't link to the error codes on the webpage as they would have you believe. File attached. Alarm Current Fault Codes 41 No engine start possible Transponder pill faulty or not present Status: Not present Number of times DTC present: 1 33 No passenger compartment monitoring Interior monitoring sensor faulty Status: Not present Number of times DTC present: 1 The first one (41) has me concerned. We tried this with both keys and with the car running and not. Same codes comes up as if it thinks the transponder is the key is bad the 2nd one (33) I am wondering if the feature was turned off by the dealer for any reason? NOTE: The alarm arms and disarms as expected according to the manual. No error flashes from the exterior lights and the LED is blinking on the dash when armed. Any comments would be apprciated. Durametric_Diagnost_Alarm.pdf
  22. rsfeller
    You can have fog on the inside or outside in this current weather. Each has it's own symptoms...I'm guessing if you turn on your windshield wipers the concern will disappear. I had a car brand that was common to have the heater core fail oh so slightly which just put enough moisture into the car to fog the inside. Ever since then I freak when I see "fog" that I am not expecting, then I remember to turn on the wipers as the fog is most likly on the outside in humid nights in the summer. Now if you have fog on the inside there are other things to consider such as the recirc being on.
  23. rsfeller
    OK this is from a Durametric software check. Interestingly enough their so called "link" on error codes that takes you to their web page offers NO solutions. Every error code I had they claimed to not have info on...boo! Durametric screen shot attached. anyways here is what I pulled on the ABS as the light was one: Airbag Current Fault Codes 45 Belt buckle, driver Driver side belt buckle may have been unplugged at some time, check connector to belt recepticle. 46 Belt buckle, driver Driver side belt buckle may have been unplugged at some time, check connector to belt recepticle. 3 Supply voltage This code indicates that the power has been interrupted. Ok we know the first two (error 45 and 46) are due to the contact issue belt buckles...but what is that voltage supply code (3) about? Does it go hand in hand with the belt buckle issue? One question that seems to get mixed comments by make and model. Does having the ABS light on shut off the ABS systems from working? In other words does having this issue with the codes and light turn off the bags if they are NOT at fault? I was able to clear these codes...but as others have said they will most likly come back on in a day or so. I'll try the contact cleaner fix next! Durametric_Diagnostic_Air_Bags.pdf
  24. rsfeller
    OK that seems to be the oppinion...guess the window sticker is wrong. I'm sure they were trying to do some optomistic marketing...
  25. rsfeller
    It is charcoal and coming from the vents. I'm assuming it an insulation in the vents like others cars I've had. You guys are saying pull the cabin filter and I can grab the offending chunk that way?
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