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Everything posted by rsfeller

  1. It's fun to see after nearly a decade my original procedure is still going strong...if not hard to find! Wish I had all those old school files presented in a way better! I miss my 986 and hope to be back in one in the near future...just hope I don't need to cut open the air box again!
  2. Sorry but I have no recall of the specific ways things were attached in there. I dug up my write up with the terrible and small photos and it was little help to me. I don't know what I ever did with the original photos but they are nowhere to be found. I do recall I stumbled on this fix 100% on my own and I"m not usually thrilled to cut something open without a plan. So I must have found some good Porsche drawings that explained what was going on in there and then looking at the design from the cowl made it logical. I've seen guys of all years on the 986 thanks me for this fix so I'd be surprised if the 996 which is mirror of the 986 from the doors forward would be so different. I don't doubt you are correct that my procedure doesn't apply...just surprised! Do you have a durametric? Is there a service position something must be in to get things in the right place for removal? Is the door made of a tin like metal or did they update it? Or do you need even see it? I've cracked open dashes on a 97 Passat Tdi (air box) as well as a 2008 Vw Touareg and I can tell you that VAG does a terrible job of making serviceable parts (blowers) accessable. At the same time they do a pretty good job of making the dash come apart (compared to Saab and Volvo) but you'll never get it back 100% unless you are surgeon. I always has some screws left over or a hole that won't line up and I chose not to put that hole in! Wish I was near by so I could get a 2nd set of eyes on the project for you but I'm sure you have seen the facts as they are.
  3. I got nothing for you as to many years removed from this project. Rather surprised it would not look the same. Did you get the servo off the bottom?
  4. Wife grew up on south end of Cow-lumbus. I have no issues shoving the great LS engine in anything that fits and makes sense but best watch this topic around those PCA types...they turn us in. I would worry about about the foam vs hole. My guess is it's a very over engineered theory or weight saver. Have my Porsche 5 more years after doing this procedure and never and issue. Sold with 120k miles and old did plugs, belt and fluids!
  5. You are simply access the doors that divert the air from hot to cold. At first I figured the large holes were a weight savings philosophy that Porsche would utilize on any model but once i saw the same design on a 1997 Passat Tdi I had to help remove a heater core (the kind you have to remove the whole dash to access) I saw the same design. My other theory is the foam covering large holes allows for minimal amounts of air to flow which may help with movement or slamming of the doors..who knows. Could be a overly connected German think for all I know. Also...all makes and model seem to have one systemic issue that prevents it from being almost a perfect car...IMS is the Porsches for the Boxster (and other models). I buy ONLY used vehicles and pretty much two new (used) cars every 2-3 years. So over the last 20+ I have my share. In the last 10-15 years I've only bought makes and models I can research on the internet or (hopefully) have a good support group. You find out quality that nobody can get it 100% right and it's going to get crazier with more fly-by-wire stuff in the most modern cars. I've had Porsche (2), BMW (4), Saab (4), Volvo (5), Chevy (1), Vw (6), Audi (1) and I can tell you 83.4% of them get one major thing wrong! So far for me Volvo from late 90s' thru late 2007 have been hard to beat. By far my roll of the dice has them with the best engines, turbos and transmissions but I've noted other models I didn't buy into have issues...so some good models and always a back eye or two for the manufacture. The Boxster was almost perfect and really was for me other then this heater core as the IMS issue hasn't really surfaced much when I had mine. I'd love to get a 2nd generation in my budget range but I'll need the extra $2-3K for preventive maintenance. I love my VAG and Vw but man...Vw is way to much a gamble. My 2008 T2 Touareg V6 has been flawless but I've been waiting for major failure for almost 3 years, not a good feeling. Now the reality of that perfect T2 is I KNOW it's got major carbon build up in the intake from the FSI engine. I haven't seen it but I see the codes on my VAG COM about air flow issues. But I digress... Just take it apart and you'll have enough tape, foam or cardboard laying around your garage to fix it. It may be a hard for some Porsche snobs to fix it this way...but it's just a car and it's on the inside!
  6. Looking at couple 2006 Cayanne S in my area...all have the CDR23 with Boss and thus fiber MOST. Read 101 painful posts on expensive fiber converts and to be honest I cannot remotely understand what product to buy from those supplies with their compliated and messy websites (MOBRIDGE, DENNSION, etc). So poking around on ebay because a buddy put a China Nav unit in his 2010 Vw Sportwagen and I"m seeing several units on there in the $500-800 range and all claim something like this... 1.If your car come with the BOSE optical fiber system, you need to pay 25USD for the extension cord.If your car come with BOSE, please contact us after your order! 2. Please make a note and tell us wether your car come with the bose optical fiber amplifer or not after your payment,thank you very much! One shows something called a CAN-BUS adapter included...is the analog or digital to fiber conversion maybe? Anyone took the plunge or read a good article on anyones experience? Thanks for constructive comments!
  7. Note for those who keep finding this...I'm not hosting the write up any more but if you go back and look at my first post you'll see the attached PDF that covers all you need to know although the photo quality is very limited.
  8. Ouch, i would have hoped they improved this design but considering my 87 Passat Tdi had this issue there are a few thing VAG won't give up...but I digress, It will eventually deteriorate enough that the foam will be gone and assuming your heater box is the same design leave large exposed holes in the mixer door. These hole will keep your heat and ac from being optimal based on your primary need. Since the ac on these small cockpits is large considering the space I didn't notice an issue but the heat was lacking. Once fixed my heat was great and the ac was disturbingly cold if needed. It could take 6 months or 6 years to come to pass. Unless you have an extended warrenty worry about it once there is an issue with heat or cold, especially if you are at the start of "just getting" foam.
  9. CPY, if you want proper answers you have to create a new post. What you did is called highjacking and although slightly annoying to those who know how forums work...more importantly you are writing to a very small audience of people that have already posted on this older thread. Try a new thread with your question and you may get better comments. Good luck.
  10. Guys, thanks for the comments. Didn't set the notification to tell me. The brother-in-law just got a quote for 12 hours of time...but I still don't understand what the concern is. he said the manifold needs to come off. Funny that I did the plastic pipes for him in 6 hours but the tech is telling him it's 5 hours just to get the manifold off...I'm in the wrong business! I'll pass on the T-Pipe to him to see if this is the concern and report back!
  11. This pertains to my brother-in-laws 2004 Turbo...I did the 2 piece aluminum water line kit for under the manifold for him about a year and a half ago as he was a bit short on funds. He was getting quotes of $2000-4000 and I did it for $350 in parts in about 5 hours... We'll he called over the weekend and stated water was pouring out of the manifold area again and he believes it also took out his starter. His shop he usually goes to actually started to tear it down assuming the work I did was faulty only to tell him that it wasn't what they thought. They are telling him there is a turbo cooling line running "east west" (their words) under the manifold too that went bad...but I've been doing some research for him and have not seemed to find a failure trend of this or what location they are talking about. I don't recall other lines unders the manifold! I know my comments may be a bit vague but does anyone know what I may be describing here that would fill up the manifold area with coolant and take out his starter similar to the plastic coolant line concern?
  12. 2004 Turbo S about 100K miles I got this email from my brother-in-law today and thought I would toss it the way of the experts to consider. I know he's had "some" coil packs replaced and I believe they are common failures on the Cayenne. I'm going to go over there tonight with a cheap OBD2 just to see if there is a code related to a cylinder but I'm telling him my guess right now is a bad coil pack is not firing, gas is getting dumped into exhaust and the cat is giving off the sulfer dioxide smell. Any thing else common to the following issue? I've been helping him maintain this the last two years as the economy has not allowed him to go to his dealer or speciality shop unless it's a big issue.... I got into my Cayenne this afternoon and as soon as I turned the ignition on the car started to sputter at idle. Once I pulled out of the garage and hit the accelerator I notice very little power and the car begin to shake. At this point, not warning indicator had been displayed but the car wasn't driving right. I only had to go two miles down the road to the gym and when I got out there was a noticeable smell. It smelled almost like rotten eggs or just bad exhaust and didn't seem to be coming from the engine but rather the exhaust system. When I got back in to drive home the Emission Control Warning Light appeared after a few hundred yards and continuously stayed on for the remaining two mile drive. When I got back into the garage, I noticed the same smell as before. The manual notes that the "light indicates operating states which might cause damage to certain parts of the emission control system.
  13. Thanks for the great answers. That idle value is low compared to older cars I've owned but I also know this car would be throwing codes if that idle wasn't right...so thanks for confirming the 500-600 is OK. Could you explain a bit more in detail what you mean about "park brake pedal can weaken" and "against the upper stop"...not sure I'm catching how this system is setup. I supposed if it was my ride I'd obsess a bit more about understanding everything! Make note it only takes 4-5 clicks to get a good hold on my inclined driveway and under mild load it's not moving...so I know it's working right and event.
  14. Did all pads, rotors, sensors and flush all wheels on brother-in-laws Turbo tonight, a couple of questions... 1. I got a park brake warning the first drive after doing it all. Warning on dash plus ding sound for about a minute. Never came back after subsequent test drives. Was something just resetting itself? Never saw a procedure for adjusting the p-brake in the writesups I was using. 2. They shorted me one brake sensor...so it will go on next weekend. So the BRAKE WORKSHOP is still showing as expected...but I also now notice a SERVICE NOW message. Don't recall seeing this bofore. Is this related to the brakes in anyway or is this a warning for oil/fitler or such...or should codes be checked like this is a CEL? I did the odometer reset and it went away without coming back on. 3. What does the Turbo (not S) idle at? According to the tach this think is sitting at 600RPM at rest after starting and just sitting there. Is this about right for a Cayenne V8 Turbo? thanks. Shawn
  15. Helping brother in law with brakes...dealer and independent shop told him all brakes, rotors and sensors needed done. I was skeptical for him when they said "all sensors" as either the front or rear tripped it and not both...but I digress. I just looked at his turbo tonight and the rotors are in great shape no groves, marks or irregularities. No pulsing and a hard pedal. The pads have slightly worn down a lip but based on my cars of past I would simply change the pads sensors and wait till next time to turn or replace the rotors. I'm curious if many of you simply replace bads every other time or to always turn rotors at the least each pad change. Additionally, who has a spec on minimum width on the front and rears? Discs are 350mm front and 300mm rear as I'd like to measure them before pulling them if needed. Is the consensus on ceramic pads too? I cannot tell what is currently on there. I come from Boxter, BMW, Volvo, Vw and Saab background but I've helped him replace the V8 coolant pipes under the manifold and carrier bearing which are the most common area. He doesn't have much extra money these days so I told him he doesn't need a $2000 rotor/pad/sensor change fromt the dealer. Shawn
  16. Thanks Loren for digging up the torque chart. What is your opinion on needing that kit for every change? From what I've gleaned Porsche recommends it but they are also in the business of selling parts and maintaining cars perfectly. I'd like to advise the owner for his records next time
  17. Going to do my brother-in-laws 2003 Turbo next week for him and it appears from the basic write-up that everything looks about the same as my Boxster, just bigger and more expensive! Does anyone have the torque spec for the caliper bolts as well as the wheels lugs? Also is the hardware kit (spring, pin and cotter) a must do for each brake change?
  18. Gang... See this post for reference: The last post the owner talks about just finding a replacement for the carrier bearing for a lot cheaper...and it appears they then balanced it to for a far cheaper price. What are you thoughts? Since it's not my car and the person who owns it is financially in a rough spot...anything is worth a try even if it only lasts a few years.
  19. OK, didn't see this thread the first search around: all my answers are there!
  20. I did see one guys post about only replacing the carrier bearing...so my next question was in fact if the carrier bearing can be separated from the shaft. Is this what you are stating from your understanding is the carrier doesn't come off w/o cutting up the shaft as the ends are most likely in the way. I'm trying to find a photo online as we write... I also see a company out of colorado who makes a HD replacement...so I'm guessing this is needed for CV failures? Thanks for your patience...it's hard for me to troubleshoot this for him until I can see the vehicle.
  21. I get your point but not very useful to my understanding...could you explain the failure trend? I'm not getting from the other posts on this topic what truly fails. He's down on his luck due to the economy so I'll most likely be doing the fix but won't see the vehicle to Wednesday, since he says it drives fine as long as he doesn't get on it and we are not 100% sure of the cause...I know he'll push the envelope since he has no option right now. Again is it the carrier that fails and causes the vibration from it's travel or is more to do with C/V failure which is what I have seen on other 4x4. Thanks.
  22. Thanks. So the center bearing and shaft are different failures to this concern? Is the balance issue to to the bearing or something else being off in the shaft? I see some of the aftermarket shafts are balanced. I guess I'm curious what will happen to him when this finally goes since he says he needs to drive it to work this week. Does this depend on the carrier bearing being the failure point or do the C/V at the diffs fail too and snap?
  23. I'm troubleshooting the brother-n-laws 04 Twin Turbo from long distance, I won't see the car until later this week. He claims he was able to reproduce twice when he really got on it some bad vibration (feels like the center of the vehicle). He actually thought he blew a tire or lost a wheel the first time. He got out to look and saw no concern...then got in the car and it drove fine until he gave it an agressive acceleration...he said about the time the turbos fired he got the crazy vibration a 2nd time. Again normal driving he had no perceived concern. I've been doing some reading and lots of drive shaft failures before 50K miles, I think he's got about 80K. Does this sound like a failed driveshaft? The only time I had a bad prop shaft on a BMW it had a old vibration at many speeds...but I'm sure the failure trend was different.
  24. Never go to that dealer again. Condensers would never had foam in, on or near them. Which thread are you referencing, I'm trying to update them with a DIY as people contact me. It appears cars are getting to that age as I'm getting many inquiries each week! Shawn
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