rsfeller

I was talking to a Volkswagen engineer at the Belgian assembly plant in Vorst (recently converted to Audi) and the guy told me that they calibrate the speedometer to show 5% more than the actual speed. Just to handle future changes, there is tollerance on about everything and this would make sure the actual speed is not higher than shown.

Future changes, changes of what?

That is an unexceptionable discrepancy here in the states. I can see no reason to be that far off. I've driving 1001 cars and have never seen another make/model consistently this far off across the model line!

*flame coat on*

That can happen only in America

*flame coat off*

:P

You lost me with your poor attempt at humor...

Speeding and driving laws are so tight in some areas of the USA that 5mph will net you a $150 fine. I doubt the judge will care that the Boxsters are made with a 5% tolerance as you try to explain you were doing compensation in your head because the Germans have some crazy theory why 5% off is better then greater accuracy. Is it really that hard to get a speedo to match real world speed and what need is there for a 5% error factor.

I was talking to a Volkswagen engineer at the Belgian assembly plant in Vorst (recently converted to Audi) and the guy told me that they calibrate the speedometer to show 5% more than the actual speed. Just to handle future changes, there is tollerance on about everything and this would make sure the actual speed is not higher than shown.

Future changes, changes of what?

That is an unexceptionable discrepancy here in the states. I can see no reason to be that far off. I've driving 1001 cars and have never seen another make/model consistently this far off across the model line!

You'll notice that many people in the forum have this same issue. Mine is right at 10% off. Also stock wheels. It's annoying but I am out of warranty and don't feel like spending big bucks to get it fixed. I just use the 10% subtraction method.

The only real issue is that I can't convince my 17 year old that I'm not speeding by that much when she sees the speedometer, especially since I tell her she better not speed at all. "Dad, you're doing 80 in a 65!"

I have no problem living with it but I was curious if it's a simple tech2 adjustment or an actual gearing problem in the speedo assembly. Any ideas? It was rather odd it was exact over a wide spectrum of speeds I cruised at as opposed to a percentage of a given speed that is often seen with tire mismatches.

Another thing, i don't have a GPS but think that my odometer is correct. Did you check to see how accurate your odometer is? I would be very interested to hear your findings if you test it out.

I could have check that but cleared out the odd reading last night. I'll recheck this weekend and update.

I should also note for this post the digital and analog gauge are in sync well between the two of them.

took the GPS for a ride today and was surprised to find a difference of 6mph between that two at cruising speeds (986 is too high). Any thoughts on what may need adjusted?

stock spec tire diameter

and before anyone starts questioning the accuracy of my handheld GPS it's dead on with our other three cars, saab, saab and vw. no more then 1mph difference at cruising speeds.

comments?

Shawn

1997 986

Make sure they are truly warped. In my travels this is an over used term for standard road cars. The rotors may cause uneven pad wear or the calipers may not be preforming well but it sure takes a lot of heat or poor quality to warp a rotor from standard road use. Racers need not argue!

I just found this Hack (even though the link pointed back to my other favorite P-site)

...removed the relay, taped Pin 18, reinstalled the relay, completed in 2 Minutes and all is well...no issues.

Thanks again for keeping this site up and running.

It know it has helped me on countless occasions to date.

I believe the big difference between the hack and module is the module still has a speed limiter so the top is not damaged at high speed. Maybe someone knows of another plus to the more expensive module that I did purchase and love...

The wife complained of the ignition not turning last week. She said it took quite a bit or rocking of the steering wheel to get it to engage.

Before you suggest the common ignition switch failure we already replaced that last fall when it acted up. No problem since.

Today I finally experienced her concern and she was right. It took 10 minutes of rocking the steering wheel left/right until I found th sweet spot. You could hear the lock clicking to release the wheel when turning the key but neither the key or wheel would turn. After getting home I couldn't replicate it, yet.

Note: Our steering wheel takes a 90 turn in either direction before it locks, always has. Additionally, I've always had error code, I believe Loren once said this is a common one to see with no ill effects.

41 No engine start possible Transponder pill faulty or not present Status: Not present Number of times DTC present: 1

Does the transponder allow a solenoid or such to release the tumbler or wheel? Any comparable theories?

I know when we bought the ignition switch from our local dealer last year they said they were sure that wasn't the issue and the entire tumbler is more prone to fail. Most on this list disagree and see the cheapo plastic switch is more common to fail. I do not think the switch is to blame this time as it's only been 8 months and we drive this car less then once a week, so little wear?

Who knows of the tumbler assembly failure?

Could it be more with the locking mech of the steering wheel or is that part of the tumbler?

Could it be the Trans-Pill issue?

Bad key or gremlins?

Have you tried starting with the clutch pedal pushed to the floor, mine made a few similar noises if I didn`t do this ?

Straight Cut Gears on this engine I`ve been told !

:thumbup: :cursing:

Not sure what this references as the clutch must be depressed for the engine to start! Are you simply saying push it further down?

Could be just the starter drive as it disengages the ring gear..... no damaged being done and I'd just put up with it.

Thanks. Have you heard this before or just guessing from knowledge of how the parts engage?

I wish I had a way to record this sound. About 50% of the time when I start the 986 I get a odd "run on" sound after car has started which I'm guessing is from the starter. Possibly the solenoid is still engaging the starter for a 1/2 sec and making this sound. Usually happens when cold but sometimes warm to.

Car starts fine and other then this new sound (last 6 months) I have no concerns yet of it's impact or cause. Nothing alarming sounding but very abnormal. Any common failure trends associated with the starter and or solenoid?

Shawn

Ohio

i have the same issue with my hardtop..spent hours adjusting and it fits well, but on the driver front corner, the gap is off and it leaks in that spot. I have the dvd, it isn't all that great on the top (it's really just an install on a car that needed no reall adjusting)....great on every thing else...no offense intended here,

so do you just live with it?

for me I don't know if I would keep the top. I'm not happy with it and I wouldn't want to really sell it someone unless they can live with it for around town driving in the winter. It's nice as it quites road noise, large trucks ect...but I have to listen to intrusive wind the whole time on my 30 minute journey to work. not a fair trade off.

this didn't fix it yet, my adjustments produced the same noise at the corner with only a little reduction.

does anyone know if the two receiver pin bolts allow for any up/down motion of lining the top to the windshield.

There's no evidence of a repaint on the hardtop (other than what you may have had done to get it to match your car), is there? No evidence of shipping damage?

Also, can you state for a fact your car has never been in an accident and repaired?

Hopefully your answer to all of the above is no......

from what I can tell the answer is no and the owner gave me no vibe on to believe him. I took it to our garage at my business and all my mechanics took turns kicking tires and staring at the top. we did find some slight differences in fit and height above the windshield on the drivers side. they had some seriously disturbing ideas that I'm not considering.

Anyways I had one guy push really hard on the back toward the front on the left as I cranked down the adjustment bolts. looks liked I got another centimeter of closure on the gap. At the same time I don't feel the wind intrude into the cockpit so the sound may be turbulence created by the fact the drivers side peeks a 1 cm high above the windshield then the other side.

Rather strange there appears to be no adjustment to height at the guide in at those to bolts to adjust its movement in any direction. Porsche has lots of faith in their fit finish of this product! Maybe a Porsche tech bent and grunted this top to the previous cars fit due a flaw.

Keep in mind my convertible top is 100% perfect at the top of the windshield when my top is up. So any flaws are most likely due with the hardtop. Leaving work now for the freeway, will update!

We made a DVD on how to install the spin locks and adjust a hardtop to the car.

You should also check to see that the centering journals have a plastic cap. They like to pop off.

Is that DVD for members or for sale somewhere?

My caps have been removed and looks like the TSB ones install, in is chewed up and we removed it hoping it would allow the journals to seat in furthur with little luck. We adjusted the allen bolts today with someone pushing on the back and this didn't close the gap like I hoped so we are scratching our heads now. The left side is easily 1.5cm away from the window compared to the pass. side.

more research to come!

i don't think the guide pin can be adjusted at all.

the hardtop position can be adjusted somewhat by loosening the bolts located under the triangular cover, then tightened when the top is in the position you like.

you do have the spinlocks installed, right?

My guess is that you need to move the opposite rear of the hardtop laterally in orer to close the gap at the windshield using the adjustments described by Chris.

the spin locks look fine. I think the trick is going to be losing the those allen bolts and torsionally twisting the top forward to get it to mate better. We are going to look at it in the shop today, I'll post the out come.

I've searched on the 4xx TSB on hard top issues.

Just picked up a used hardtop, went on great and after a 300 mile ride home I was amazed at no squeaks, creaks or rattles...

until I got on the freeway. The noise coming from the windshield mate was horrible about 60mph. Upon inspection at the first rest stop it was apparant there is a considerable gab on the drivers side around the guide pin. I can place my thumb between the hardtop and lower windshield until I can feel weather stripping. I cannot do this on the passengers side. Upon trying to reseat this I determined nothing was going to change.

Again I've review the TSB, looked over Bentley and before I start pulling things appart this weekend I wanted some input on how to adjust tension and forward movement to the windshield edges to seal better. Since there is only one tension location in the center I can only see forward motion being produced from the rear left pin (into the twist lock) being possibly moved. Is that what's under the cover back there?

Can the guide pin be adjusted in any way?

this was not a salvage, it simply came off a 2000 OEM that the guy never used and it's now going on my 1997. Again not a single rattle or squeak but something is not lining up correctly on the left guide pin.

thank you in advance for your constructive ideas or experience.

Shawn

So the 986 came out of the garage last night from it's winter sleep. After starting it and letting it idle for 2 minutes I proceeded down the drivway bacckwards noticing a fluid trail along the way. The AC wasn't on long enough for the evap to be dumping water so I jumped out concerned. Not oil, not green antifreeze...so we proceeded to the taste test!

Yep 100% hardcore Ohio salt water from our billions of tons of salt dumped on our streets. I had to drive the 986 a couple of times this winter why other cars were in the shop. Lots of freeway time. Before the car went back in the garage we gave it a light pressure wash on the rack at work and then I handwashed the outside.

Now here comes the real concern about the salt.

I moved the car today and there were puddles dried like th salt flats of West under the car near the front end. Several spots a foot in diameter all dried and heavily crystalized. The car has been out twice in two day in very dry conditions. So I'm rather concerned where all this water came from when the car was moved yesterday that dumped maybe quart or more of salty water on the garage floor.

Where is this water collecting for the last couple of months that it just released in an unbelievable amount of brine? I'd like to find the area so it doesn't collect and ruin the car.

Shawn

While inspecting my top tonight for a future replacement I noted that headline seems sticked and intergral to the top. Are after market tops constructed this same way?

I know in other cars over the years padded headliners are usually seperate from the top.

This top seems well constructed it appears to be one thick piece sewn together. Any comments or points to a previous post would be appriciated.

Shawn

While doing some work on the 986 after winter storage and lack of top use the sliders seem dry when the top is put back up. On eacch side there is one slider that the clam shell slides on. I'm getting a jerking on the right side. Everything seems even and working correctly, so my guess is the grease is a bit dry after 10 years.

Are there an posted maintenance procedures for the that cover what type of lubricants can be used on joints and sliders.

Thanks.

Shawn

In my case the horn for the alarm did fail...but most likely the bushings behind the airbag have gone bad. This is a easy DIY with a new airbag frame for about $80 from Sunset Imports. Of course this is dependant on which steering wheel you have (as toolpants asks) if you have the early 986 this could be your issue, not sure what year they went to the differnt steering wheel.

Before those who jump on here stating that this failure is noticeable when the horn beeps itself, mine never did and the bushings were shot. Do a Google on this board and you find lots of good stuff and photos (toolpants?) of the decayed horn bushings.

I doubt both your horns failed at the same time.

Having an intermittant problem with my wipers on my 98 Boxter, with the snowy weather it seems that my wiper are stuck, even though I have cleared off ice or snow. They are ok after I start them by hand

Any help on this would be greatly appreciated

Sal

Easy item to get out for any DIY, check the Bentley for details. If you want to do it on a budget have the the motor looked at by a show that does alternators, starters, blowers, ect. You are looking at $40 or less if you don't tell them what it's out of...

When I fitted my hardtop and the rear parcel shelf I left mine in. However, to get the wind deflector out you need to unclip the black clips at the top on the deflector. Search on 'wind deflector' and you should get some instructions/photos on here, sure I've seen them

Thanks but those key words don't produce anything useful for my need.

I will be fitting a used hard top this week as well as installing the rear speaker shelf. I have been looking at the wind block glass and attachment parts for over an hour and do not see how the plexiglass disengages w/o breaking the cheap looking plastic attachment system.

Anyone got a trick or obvious item I'm missing here?

Thanks.

Shawn

Looking for the wire that runs from the hardtop to the connector behind the seat for the defroster.

thanks

Shawn

white clip that goes on the roll bar.

What is this "white clip all about?