rsfeller

What was the final word on the 2nd shaft?

I'm troubleshooting the brother-n-laws 04 Twin Turbo from long distance, I won't see the car until later this week.

He claims he was able to reproduce twice when he really got on it some bad vibration (feels like the center of the vehicle). He actually thought he blew a tire or lost a wheel the first time. He got out to look and saw no concern...then got in the car and it drove fine until he gave it an agressive acceleration...he said about the time the turbos fired he got the crazy vibration a 2nd time. Again normal driving he had no perceived concern.

I've been doing some reading and lots of drive shaft failures before 50K miles, I think he's got about 80K.

Does this sound like a failed driveshaft? The only time I had a bad prop shaft on a BMW it had a old vibration at many speeds...but I'm sure the failure trend was different.

Hi I have a 2000 996 with this issue, dealer told me it was the AC condensor needed replacing but the AC still works??

Never go to that dealer again. Condensers would never had foam in, on or near them.

Which thread are you referencing, I'm trying to update them with a DIY as people contact me. It appears cars are getting to that age as I'm getting many inquiries each week!

Shawn

My website if offline now. A PDF of the procedure can be found here:

DIY write is here:

If you go to your My Settings and then to Notification Options. Is the checkbox for Hide my email address from other members checked?

If so, then any member can send an email (rather than a PM).

To prevent this simply uncheck that box - then they can only send you a PM on the board. (that is what I do)

Understood. Did the interface change again that it defaulted to this? I don't recall ever getting emails directly to me before...always thru the PM system.

Thanks.

Loren,

I just got the following in an email. When I kick on the link it doesn't take me to a forum or my private message area, even when logged in. I then went to look at my private messages and don't see anything in there beyond 1.5.11.

Is something being buggy?

rsfeller,

rrotondo has sent you this email from http://www.renntech.org/forums/index.php.

I see you no longer have this DIY on your site. I was hoping you could email me the write up or a working link. I am getting pelted with Foam and it is getting in my eyes so its a bit dangerous as well.

Folks you saw your write up said it did the trick - so it would be much appreciated

---------------------------------------------------

Please note that RennTech.org Forums has no control over the

contents of this message.

---------------------------------------------------

We we did the PIA failed tubes under the intake manifold...I have to say this job was far more difficult then I imaged. For those doing it in 5-6 hours...good job. We had about 12 hours into but that had mostly to do with every single plastic tube breaking inside the engine cavity...but I digress...

Filled up system and took for test drive. Saw a bit antifreeze under the drive axle on both driver and pass side...taste test approved. Additionally, the cap had pressure the first few times I slowly opened it but doesn't seem to be holding much pressure now when opened (again slowly) hot. As you know with such a fix you smell antifreeze from the old leak for quite some time and we cannot see our fix area to see if all new seals are good. Wish I could have pressure tested then (didn't have parts). After more test drives I have not seen a leak under the car (like before) but again the pressure on the cap is low or non-existent.

Here are my questions:

1. is there another failure area such as the overflow tank that could be blame for any leaking and/or pressure concerns. (this wouldn't explain the puddle we say on the driver side).

2. Are the caps prone to failure and thus not a good seal?

3. Are Vw/Audi pressure testers going to work to test the Porsche system. It appears they have the same inner valve on the cap but the treads are noticeably different then my 96 Passat.

Water level dropped slightly after test drives (from max to min) but this may be expected due to air pockets filling up during high rpm and temp driving. The system took almost 2 gallons of 50/50 mix post fix and the pipe (small ones not large) did have a small crack as well as fluid in the manifold area...so there was a concern there.

I think my mechanic buddy thinks I'm being paranoid and i should just drive it home but I wanted it to sit for the night to see if any fluid leaked underneath and try to find a affordable pressure tester. It's not my $50K toy, so I'm understandably cautious.

Any useful comments would be appreciated for any other leak areas to consider or if the antifreeze I found on the ground (again new) was most likely hidding from the previous leak and simply dumped when the vehicle finally moved and/or warmed.

Going to replace the failed coolant hoses under the manifold tomorrow for a family member. He just told me his last mechanic didn't install the oil sender due to a suspect unit and it's in his possession, hopefully with the gasket/seal too!

There was a quote on this post: http://www.renntech....428#entry185428 about a cross member being in the way...can anyone speak from experience on this and what needs done? Pulling the engine up? or moving mounts required?

Also, since I don't own the vehicle nor have the owners manual with me yet can you confirm what quantity of oil and weight is required? I see a past invoice here for Mobile 1 but it says 0W40 which I'll assume is 10W40 and just a type...how many quarts/litres should I grab and confirm the weight.

Thanks.

Shawn

EDIT: crap found this useful post on the fill and weight...just need input on the sender:

It dropped out of the pan with no issues, it won't fit through the aluminum crossmember and the oil pan. I turned it every direction for an hour and a half and just had to reinstall the old one.

I need to replace the sender on a friends ride...his mechanic "forgot" to do it and he has the parts. Looks straight forward but your comment about the "crossmember" making the removal difficult. Can you elaborate?

Is this something I will not be able to get to unless I remove something else? I haven't see the car yet to tell myself until this weekend.

Additionally...

I now see the starter is tucked in there..how cute!

Are some people getting $3000 quotes as they are doing preventive maintenance that the starter has been damaged from the water leak?

I know your average vehicles starter can take a moisture beating but maybe this one is fragile since it was supposed to be dry all it's life? Should this be replaced as it is sure to fail soon or should it only be replaced if he has money to burn?

Actually 06 is the newest part number for the pipes.

Talk to the folks at Sunset Porsche - they put a kit together for this.

Thanks Loren, I was hoping someone would say they did a kit for this!

Guys, I'm looking into this repair for a family member that was quoted about $3000 to fix this...I'm really not seeing this being beyond 3-6 hours other then some stuck pipes.

I"m looking at the two part numbers and one ends in 04 and 05 (for the pipes) with a suggested retail of $90 and $190 with the later saying stainless...but I keep reading aluminum pipes. Is the $90 aluminium or orignal plastic...I'm understanding that they most likely don't even offer plastic anymore due to the failure trend. Can you offer some insight on the parts I'm seeing?

Lastly, have the parts dropped dramatically on these over the years as I'm seeing some saying they spent $800 in parts and I don't see this being but a third that.

I"m still researching this project w/o even seeing his ride yet...so I could be way off in my understanding. Thanx.

Although I have been following this thread and no longer have a Boxster, I'll add this comment. Not sure of the true reason for the constant failure, but...

The best car I ever owned was a 1995 Saab 9000 CSE with a 2.3L 4cyl turbo. We just got rid of this car this last fall with 350,000 miles on it. Not because it every gave us issues, simply because I was sick of waiting for it to fail!

Point is that since I got it at 100K miles it always had a leak at the crank seal, we replaced it almost every time we were working in that area...my guess was at least 5-6 times! I only ever wanted it fixed due the mess it made on that side of the engine and a few leaks in my garage. My mechanic said it was simply a flaw in the crank with it having an imperfection on that end. Seems a bit odd that a flawed crank would not create more concerns...but it never did other then the leak. He argued that as the seal dryed and the crank pattern slowly wore the seal out of perfection. The leak was a function of time and seal age.

Maybe there could be a similar issue other then a bad RMS design.

Looks like the first links were to a ".com" address when they should have been a ".net" address.

Good write up!

Yea, regretably I cannot edit the original posters URL as I have changed websites over the years for less then logical reasons. Finding it on my new website was shown in my last post but for those who are still stuggling with searching my sites here is the exact URL

http://www.carboncow.net/index.php?option=...6&Itemid=97

Funny thing, according to my Porsche dealer, my car is a fake or something...to many digits.

PK

What happens in the VIN decoder on this site? How many digits do you have? Is it a euro delivery or such?

Are the "O's" actually 0's(zeros)?

You nailed it. It took me an hour to figure out the O was a 0...who makes these choices? I also found the nifty decoder under documents...

I'm trying to sell my 986 on ebay and it won't take my VIN!!!! The vin is as follows:

WPOCA2988VS625207

They claim it's not a valid VIN but I bought it on EBAY, have the original car fax and am looking at all my official documents which match the windshield VIN.

Is EBAY on crack or can you tell me something "odd" about this vin?

I did note the original car fax did state this was a 2.7L engine but it is a non-S and has the 2.5L. I'm sure this is simple carfax error.

Thoughts?

Shawn:

Even though you did this two summers ago, that one side may have loosened up enough to cause the problem. Even when everything is adjusted properly, the latch only clears the windscreen by about 1/4 of an inch, and sometimes even less than that.

You're correct that there are no "slots" but it makes enough of a difference if you stress the frame forward before locking down the first bolt and then do the other side.

There is some play in the hole, even though it's definitely not a slot.

I had this experience recently when I helped my friend "Boxtaboy" install a glass-window OEM top from a 2003 Boxster onto his 2000 Boxster, and we experienced the same problem twice.

The first time, after completing the installation the latch hook would just nick the windscreen and we pulled the frame forward and then the latch hook would barely clear the windscreen, almost brushing it. After a few weeks, the latch started to barely touch the windscreen and we did it again, using the method I described and it's been perfect since.

BTW, his 2000 had no phillips head screws, my '97 has two on each side. I'm going to do the conversion to a 2004 glass windowed top, as soon as I can figure out what to do with the extra brown and black wire (there are two on the early Boxsters and only one on the later ones) that comes out of the electric motor. I know that one goes to the relay and the other goes to the central alarm control unit but I have to figure out which is which, maybe with an ohmeter.

Regards, Maurice.

All makes sense. Just did a wheel bearing on my Passat Tdi with none adjustable stuts (no slots for adjustment)...funny thing is I could make that car drive down the road like a 3 legged dog just by pushing on three bolts that should have had no play...same theory as yours and it is true it will move.

My 1997 didn't have the phillips head screws either if I recall. I remember looking at the p-tech manual and going, why don't I have those? I just have the big bolts.

I'm thinking glass top too. It's a shame my canvas is 100% OK and the plastic is ripped. How did you rate the procedure?

Also, I'm not familiar with the wires you mentioned and how they would interfere with a glass window?!?!? Electric motor to what and how would this interfere?

Thanks Maurice, will research tonight.

My only concern with your idea is that the latch was not hitting before, so although something may be sagging I don't think my reattachment of the frame assembly (two summers) ago has change. But we'll see!!

Also, refresh my memory but I though there was no "play" in those three bolts? No slots to slide the frame forward/back for such an adjustment. I remember being really relieved when I took the top off thinking I didn't need to "mark" the old location as the bolts put it "right where it needed to be".

Was you experience different on that last point?

Shawn

I've had my entire convertible top frame off before to repair bent parts and got a good understanding of the cables, transmissions and internals.

Wife has been driving the car lately and she noted the latch now hits the wind screen when the top goes up and down and while inspecting the concern I noted that the driver side of the frame/canvas barely clears the rollbar hoop and is an inch or more lower then the other side.

My brain is a but rusty before I start getting into this...what do you think at work?

Transmission out of sink?

Stretched cable?

Something else (since that is the side I had to repair a pivot cam on).

thanks.

Shawn

Happened to me recently. The freon had all leaked out. Apparently, there is a leak in the system somewhere. The Dealer recharged it with freon containing a color dye/indicator, so that they can look to see where the leak is at a later date.

On these cars it's pretty obvious when the compressor engages, you feel it through the entire system and you need to determine that variable first for self diagnosis. Could you ever sense it before? I know at an idle my engine dips 100RPMs whenever the AC engages. It can be replicated each time when you manually turn the AC on/off/on. If you don't sense it now then you system is low on freon or the system is damaged (open).

If you need more specific details on AC operation and care send me a PM.

If you hear/feel the AC compressor engaging then you have another issue, also send me a PM and I'll tell you about my crazy theory which is in reverse to my problem as seen here.