rsfeller

Shawn,

I would hazard a guess at the gizmo being a 'breather/vent, or one way valve' type thing. probably on some of the pipes attached to the crankcase.

This was post number 6. Okay so it's officially called a PCV, yeah right...... but wasn't I on the money?

Do I not win the prize?

We'll pass out the winnings once I get it to the Porsche dealer next week!

It is slightly dirty with oil but not wet, so I'm not to concerned now. As I stated before I would guess we want the crankvalves working correctly so they don't help push the crankcase seal out!

Just a note - I purchased a tube of pure silicone and applied it to the moulding a few days ago. So far it's worked perfectly. I'll update in a week or so to see if it holds. The only caveat is the weather - it is cooler now up here in Toronto and this may have something to do with it - but the fact is that this is the only solution that has worked (even moderately) so far.

Silicon was a no go for me, but talc did work in hot weather. now that it has been 40 degrees in the morning it goes away due to the stiffness of the rubber. by the afternoon when its 70F it flapsright back over!

my issue isthe felt on the under belly is gone and thus it cannot do it's job properly. i'm safe on the talc until it rains again...

My apologies to you

You asked an intelligent question and got nothing but crap for answers.

In an attempt to answer the question, I searched through the parts list that often answers such questions for probably 15 minutes only to be stymied. Which may explain why you haven't gotten an intelligent answer, because others are struggling to come up with the answer to a question they have never seen posed before.

My guess is some sort of pressure relief valve. But I can't prove that.

Thanks for a good guess. Like many new 986 owners I have bought many books and manuals including Bentley, Tech Service manual and all the 986 history/story books. The later have some great photos of the engine on a bench and NOT ONE has the "gizmo" in question.

I will eventually be visiting a dealer for a PST2 scan for my heater issue, I'll give them the photo and put this question to bed!

I was really surprised a few of our best question answers didn't chime in!

The PNP kit has the wiring harness you need to wire from the speakers up to the head unit and then an add on harness to get you from head unit to AMP in trunk. So you'll be fine to run them off the head unit for now and then also have the harness when you upgrade to a 6x40 AMP. Good luck!

Great info from good experience. Thanks.

Ok Loren, i just disconnected the battery for about 4 minutes and reconnected it...it was enough time to reset my trip distance, time and trip the radio to prompt me for a radio code, I started it but about 1 minute and turned it back off, the real test is the ride home after i leave work., Ill let you know how it turned out.

I think Ill replace the fuel filter regaurdless of the outcome since it is 40,000 miles past its expiration and would probably improve throttle responce and free up some lost hp that i've been missing.

When im done paying this off in 2 years, ill just buy a Porsche like yours.

This one is my starter Porsche, I had a 1965 912 when i was 22 about 2 years ago but that doesnt count since its not a well engineered at the newer stuff is.

I'd say yes on the fuel filter. If you don't know when it was done last...then it does need done now! I've had fuel filters cause issues in other cars before. Additionally, you may know this already and it has been debated on other vehicles before but running dry is not advisable. Many fuel pumps are actually cooled by the gas and 100% dry can wear on the pump.

:( I own a 2002 986 that suddenly developed a problem with the directional signals. When I go to use the directionals, the four-way flashers come on instead. It does not matter if it is right or left, same results.

Help!

Is this a simple fix like a flasher module? :unsure:

Sounds like classic relay failure I've had happen on many Saabs and BMW. I would hope its a rather standard unit that could be had at most local auto stores, maybe not. Regardless they can be cracked open and the contacts cleaned for another year of service.

so the stock amp in a 1997 is a 4 channel running the front, correct? If I add rear speakers I can run those off power from the head from what I read in this post? The head is most likly also a 4 channel power amp and I could pick up the rear two channels off of it?

Not looking for a major upgrade and the desire to put in a 40x6 amp...just some music to the rear would add to the sound for sure.

I believe that is accurate. In a 4x40 system, I believe the PNP kit drives off the head unit.

A word on this approach though....the system you are describing will be ok with the top up, and will sound a bit better, but will be pretty severely under powered for top down volume of any appreciable level.

thanks. I'll most likly approach this with a 6x40 system down the road, there are a few on ebay I've seen. For now I just wanted to know if I went the PNP route I could at least get it running and spend more money down the road.

Are there wires already running through the tunnel that mount up to the PNP kit or is that part of the kit? Many car builders have the generic wiring harnesses dropped in all trim levels and just add the components as needed. Just curious.

What I want to know is why do we care what it is? What purpose will finding out what that black piece of plastic on the engine serve?

What a stupid reply to my inquiry, who pissed in your cornflakes this morning?

My inquiry has nothing to do with what "we" care it has to do with a question "I" asked from competent list members. It appears to be a sensor or outlet of sorts and being covered with oil is slightly concerning when the rest of the engine is fairly clean. Oil being vented can be a sign of a bad crankcase check valve and incorrect crank case pressures can damage engine seals. I've seen it happen on my Saabs before and since I'm new to the 986 world I don't know the engine well, yet. So I have researching a reason for oil venting from this area.

BTW your picture sucks too so it's hard to make a guess.

Thank you Doctor Obvious about the photo quality. Not only did I state an apology for photo quality in the initial post but you found time in your busy day to answer this post with nothing constructive other then to point this out again.

Although the photo quality is not superb most enthusiasts can identify an engine part based on its location alone. Next time add something constructive (or at least funny like the first coupe of posters) or don't bother.

Maybe my clarification and explaination for my initial inquiry will help others to answer the question and keep the haters at bay.

so the stock amp in a 1997 is a 4 channel running the front, correct? If I add rear speakers I can run those off power from the head from what I read in this post? The head is most likly also a 4 channel power amp and I could pick up the rear two channels off of it?

Not looking for a major upgrade and the desire to put in a 40x6 amp...just some music to the rear would add to the sound for sure.

I have the Porsche and Becker part numbers, but not with me. I think the Porsche number is 993 645 453 00.

It is a lot cheaper buying it from Becker. Tell Becker you want a silverstone 2660 changer cable. The Becker cable is longer but you coil it up next to the battery tray.

Great info. I'll try to contact Becker tonight through their website about the cable. Don't know if they have an facilities in the US.

Shawn

Since your car is a US specification car, but not a California vehicle, that is the syncro-rectoverter intake port. It measures ambient particulate densities for modulation of the moloniod. If your car is a Boxster S, then there are dual molonoids.

Moderator, eh?

And world renowned Porsche expert too! :eek:

<_<

somehow I don't doubt Porsche implimenting yet another sensor and one that measure particle density to regulate fog light intensity or such...but is it fair to say the esteemed board of members here have been stumped or is there some reason this information is not being released about my inquiry about the gizmolonid?

Since your car is a US specification car, but not a California vehicle, that is the syncro-rectoverter intake port. It measures ambient particulate densities for modulation of the moloniod. If your car is a Boxster S, then there are dual molonoids.

Moderator, eh?

took the engine hatches off tonight for the first time since I bought this car a couple weeks back. Everything looked clean, dry and the belt looked almost new.

Anyways, I have attached one photo and circled some gizmo that I cannot find in the manual or Bentley. What is this? It was very very oily just in that one part. It could be below the power steering res which had it share of dirty/fluid but I think it appears to be a terminate for a recirc of some type.

Just curious to what it is and should I expect to be really oily for a 60K 1997.

Sorry for the crappy photo, camera phones don't like close ups in low light.

thanks.

(should have mentioned that this is on the left side on top of the head, but you most likly know that already if you are answering this question!)

Just got a CD-3 dirt cheap w/o the wire from the unit to the head. I know Porsche can get it but cannot find the part number.

more importantly:

Can someone explain to me the logic to find such a cable with the parts PDF? I search for CD - 3 and a page comes up with the unit and hardware but cannot find any cable comments in the PET (update 194). The page below showing the new MOST system shows cables (and numbers) between components but the pre fiber system shows nothing. Am I missing something?

Page_001_CD_3.pdf

Need a little help (yes again)...

Can anyone help me get a pdf of the parts of the tech manuals required to replace the ignition switch and steering lock.

According to the TSB it is Group 2 Repairs 28-1 and Group 4 Repairs 48-19 and 48-21.

Also, where would one get a full set of these documents as it seems that I need them every few weeks.

Thanks,

Jeff

curious to you exact symptoms, could you share?

As far as I know you can use anti-seize everywhere. :D I think it is advisable 1) where there are two different metals (steel screw, aluminum bracket, 2) where there is a lot of heat, 3) where there is water or other fluid and the potential for corrosion 4) where you want to be sure that the nut or bolt can be loosened in the future. Also I thinks it helps when you torque a bolt as it lubricates and results in a more consistent tightening.

I cannot think of anytime that using it would be bad. It is more a question of remembering to use it.

I just thought of a time when you would not use it. :D If you had a bolt or nut that you did not want to come loose i.e. you were using loctite to make sure it did not come loose or a nut with a nylon insert.

I hope that you were able to get the broken bits out and that you do not have a similar experience in the future.

The shafts are not coming out with out drilling them out, so for now the brackets will hang. I guess I don't see any problem and I don't here them rattle. I was just hoping for comment on having their brackets hanging for some time or any concerns. II will most likly wait till spring to drill out the broken parts as I have some strut work to do in the future.

There could have been corrosion as you suggest or galling if they were removed in the past and were reinstalled without any anti-sieze. Or maybe they were reinstalled and over-torqued and were damaged.

You bring up a good comment that I have a question on.

when is it best to use a anti-sieze compound? I've used it on brake parts in the past but little else. Is it safe for any two parts (bolt and thread)?

Dashboard removal is not too bad. It took me about 1 1/2 hours to get it out and about 2 hours to get it back in. I don't think you will have to remove the dash for the heater actuator flap, though. I believe once you remove the passenger side airbag you should be able to reach everything ok, but don't quot me on that.

Please post what you end up doing. I need to replace ours soon. You can hear it having a tough time, but it's not dead yet. :cheers:

Isn't it funny how the dealer says the whole dash has to go! You may be right. Looking at Bentley it appears the motor is on the bottom so I was hoping to access it as you speak, w/o having to remove everything.

You are speaking of the same part for your need as me? In mine I hear no issues, what is your doing?

The control flap is more toward the pass. side then? My only complaint with Bentley on this is they show the entire AC housing out of a car so I couldn't figure out its orientation in regards to the dash.

What did you have your dash out before for?

If the heater flap motor is in deed bad I plan to document the entire process for all.

The only thing that I can think of is that you might have cross threaded the bolt. You can put them in by hand i.e. no wrench until the last turn to make sure that you have not cross threaded them. There is no way you could snap them off that way.

Really!

and the one I tried to get out that snapped at the first torque of the 10mm wrench?! Unless the PO cross threaded that one, you could be right.

Just becuase they are easy to get out of yours doesn't mean that something was squirelly with mine I'm sure. I'm just surprised they used such a low torque bolt such an area. Obviously road debris, salt and corrosion take their toll and need more torque for removal on bolts and fasteners.

Just got good word that my lack of heat is most likly a common failure of the: Heater Flap / Blend actuator motor.

I have not put this on a PST2 yet and will not begin work until we have verifed this but sources say be prepared for this one. Additionally they said the dash and heater box will need opened.

Done my share of saab and vw heater cores, fans, mixers and dashboard removals. All sucked.

anyone lived to tell on this one?

Are you sure your rattle is not a loose front swaybar? (fairly common)

will check out, are the bushings usually shot? I've seen sway bars hanging on other cars I'e owned (neglected).

Is this why I see swap bar kits on ebay or are those upgrades for track needs?

More importantly are we the only two guys sitting at home on a Friday night?

ebay guy has them cheap. easy swap from the top strut or are messing with struts a real job for a real specialist?

could the fact these things are wasted be why i hear a front end rattle on really bumpy roads that is subdued as quickly as front gets back on the road?

Do these bump stops belong inside the gator?

fixed horn and now put the neg cable back on. something seems different, or maybe I’m just crazy. please confirm!

seems that the radio before Illuminated or at least the ON button did at night with the car running (ignition on) but w/o the head lights on.

The radio and ON button light up as expected with the headlights on...but something seems to have changed, just cannot put my finger on it! Obviously disconnecting the battery and thus stereo would have removed all config. Didn't see anything in setup about this.

Help determine if I'm nuts or not. thanks.

I don't know - I've never read the voltage at the at the alarm horn.

Tool Pants might know -- I think he's replaced a couple of them.

Paging toolpants!

Should the horn "chirp" when arming or disarming the car or just the lights flash?

When the system is properly armed the lights should flash twice -- no horn. A horn chirp means one or zones is open (and not armed).

Common causes of an open zone are the armrest cover and the front trunk microswitch.

Is two for on and one for off, correct?

Two flashes to arm is normal and one to disarm (at least my car has always done that and I have no alarm fault codes).

Thanks. What do you think about that 9v present all the time to the horn?