rsfeller

Umm... 1900 GBP = 3125 USD.

Sounds expensive to me.

good point. it though UK was a few percentage higher. dollar must be in bigger trouble then I thought!

Finally got my 986 back after 3 days in my local German marque 'specialist', lots needing done as I suspected:

Rattly noise from engine was loose and missing exhaust clamps

Starter motor bendix full of gunk and sticking

Complete ignition switch / barrel assembly replaced

Passenger front side lower track control arm replaced

Major service carried out

Other minor bits n pieces

The bill.. £1900.00

Warranty company would not cover anything as 'faults must have been there before policy was started'... so are sacked, I'll just put the money I was paying them aside every month instead.

Now, here's to many months ahead of trouble-free Boxster fun! :unsure:

looks like you got off paying a reasonable price.

was your starting bendix sticking and creating a "whirl" after starting? mine has been doing that for years and debated if it's something that required a new starter or a simple clean and/or fix.

Couple weeks ago, I picked up a boxster S from Chicago. I had to get the front tires replaced, because I couldn't get it certified locally. The car also had a bad vibration in the steering wheel when getting up past 70mph.

I got 4 new Hankook Ventus V12 tires. The ride is much improved. The vibrations have decreased 10 fold. It could be placebo, but even shifting into 3rd (nagging problem since day 1) seems to be better. The tires and install cost me $1100cdn all in. The shop was happy to come out to pick up the car (hmmmm Boxster? - we'll offer to pick it up) - as I was working, and my wife had the kids, and she hasn't driven the car yet)

In hindsight, I should have got the tires replaced before I brought it back into Canada, but being cheap, I thought I could run the rears at least for the summer.

man, you call yourself cheap but spend $1000 on tires and Hankooks even! Could have had it done for $600 including a Hunter Road Force balance!

The latest link is now broken. Can you please post an updated link?

Thank you,

ian

ian, try that 2nd link again. I've been moving servers around here at work and my personal projects got caught w/o a home! Things should be running again...

If you need any assistance, comments or comments on this topic please email me (carboncow@me.com)

Shawn

Any guesses on what the problem may be?

I'm guessing a radiator hose, as another renntech member posted a topic on a situation very similar to mine here:

http://www.renntech.org/forums/index.php?s...=coolant+feeder

many things considering you didn't mention the exact location of the leak. could include waterpump but you may have seen a leak and/or failed bearing noise. my vw tdi just went with little to know warning. warning lights (low coolant) never came on and I drove maybe 10 minutes at 200F.

fixed pump, topped of coolant (actually a full flush) and it's been two weeks w/o a problem.

cars can be very robust even after over heating...not the end of the world for sure.

Thanks Jake, sound advice. I've booked the car in to a specialist tomorrow, I'll let you know how I get on.

I don't see any end of work stuff here. Such a rattle from a bad idle can be many things not related to the internals of the engine.

To answer your other questions...

1. bendex sticking on starter. common on vw and 986/987 alike and can be ignored if needed.

2. bad ignition switch covered on this site 1001 times.

3. common failure of front end bushings

Car decided to play up last week due to a flat battery.

Deduced through a voltmeter across the battery that the alternator/vr had failed as there was a reading of 12.8v with engine off and 11.8v with the engine running. Quicky followed by flashing dash lights, erratic spoiler etc

So 3 days in a car garage, 30 miles and approx £680 later!!!!! (inc new battery and new alternator) have exactly the same problem,

Having not carried the work out myself is the voltage regulator integral to the alternator would it be exchanged (provided) with the new alternator.

I am furious with myself for not checkin the voltage readings having received the car back from the garage to see it was all working.

If the VR and alternator were replaced as an integral item and are presumed to be "okay" when fitted is there anything that could cause either the new alternator/vr to fail due to the cars operation?

Edd

Bad grounds can have similar symptoms. I had a vanagon once with a bad ground to the starter that did the same thing. Your assumption was correct in thinking the VR and I would not have replaced the entire alternator as I though the VR are on the outside of this unit, but I could be getting my cars confused too!

Well i'm actually in the UK, and the temp doesn't really fall below -5 C and top out at about 28 C. (not sure what that is in F)

Are the Khumo N rated tyres????

I assume they are but don't recall, look here:

I have the All Seasons (if I recall) and get them online via that company that delivers to my door in a day but you may not have this tire available in the UK.

Shawn

Look here

Link and look at the end of the web page.

If you can't afford the Michelin's...and you are OK with the limitations of no driving when road temps are below 40F..then consider the Kumhos. (That limitation is true of all Ultra High Performance Summer tires.) If your temps get below 40 and the car will be driven in such temps, then start looking at all seasons high performance tires.

I agree complete with Mike, I enjoy my kumos, drive well and have held up well too.

It would be more helpful if you told us what kind of driving you are doing and how much. I put let then 5,000 miles a year on a car on my boxster that never sees rain nor weather below 32F and my "discount tire" are now on 3 of 4 of my vehicles because of my happiness with kumos.

Nurvus is onto something here as I have never had a problem with any car dealer running the VIN for me on a used car I am looking at (or purchased) as long as I knew the dealer location (and of course had the VIN). A $20 has helped from time to time too! but finding the dealer is the first step...I've never been told anything about privacy laws.

Seems the consumer would have a right to know of all concerns on record for a vehicles...it's not like we are asking for the drivers credit history or health records!

Sounds like you have the stock wheels; just as built. I'd be more concerned about the origin of this car...was this a flood victim from the south?

I'd check into title history and see where it's spent it's life. Salt water can do an enormous amount of damage. I guess you're already "in", so I wish you luck. Hopefully the car will turn out to be OK.

There you go, really stress the guy out now!

My vote is no-go on flood damage, you'd have more then your share of electrical concerns the day you got it!

Shawn,

I am a little cautious with this car because of ALL the problems that I've had to fix to bring it back to road worthiness. This thing must've been in a flood or something. Rust everywhere on the undercarriage and wheel carrier.

I had some "rubbing" coming from the rear of the vehicle that was identified as wheel bearings. I'm almost done completing that DIY, and the larger wheels got me wondering if that may also be causing the roaring sound I heard. Didn't know if the larger wheels were an improper size for the vehicle.

Thanks again for your input!

I totally get your concern. Although I got my car for a great deal I expected to have 101 "unknown" issues to make it a great deal. What was that sound? What was that vibration? Why does item "A" look wrong?...I know your concern for sure.

"roaring" is always 99% wheel bearings. I've done 101 of them on 101 cars and I always try to convince myself that it's something else before I except the fate that it's bearing. Some cars it's really easy and on this car it didn't look to fun, and I have one slightly noisy too!

By "larger" you simply mean different, correct? Or are they after market rims which could be a concern.

Two things all new "used" Porsche owners should do is buy the Bentley and the Durametric software. These two items can put 92.5% of your concerns to rest. Especially if you don't have the factory user manual the Bentley will fill you in on all specs needed. Although this website has a better then average search function not all forums do. You can spend an hour searching a topic to come up empty handed, just to have a bunch of "know it alls" tell you it's in there somewhere!

Give us a photo of your car with rims and we'll tell you if they are OEMs.

Good luck.

You are nervous with a new car! I was the same way, but not over thinking this point! Many (most now) preformance cars have different front/back tires.

It's be design. Do some research on google and this site, all the answers are there. Your manual (assuming you have one) has the specs to as well as down loadable manuals you can find here.

Those numberss are the rim width and I'm assuming the 2nd number in each case is the offset, but not sure.

Shawn

Some confusion in this thread:

- do you take the top off with the frame and then take this to have the window sowed in

- or do you take the top off with out the frame

Looking for best way for DIY.

I don't think there is any confusion in what I am talking about, as I clearly say I took the frame assembly off the car and took it to my repair guy. You could very easily take the soft top off the frame too, but if you are going to go to that trouble then simply cough up $600 for a new top and put it back on yourself.

I should add (since Maurice brought it up) that my window was sewn in my my boat canvas guy!!! I figure if he could do all that work on my boat he could do a little window on a little car!

Hi Maurice,

You are absolutely right! I had misunderstood him.

The only problem is that the upholstery people I can find here (Cayman Islands) say that they need to stitch it with a machine and that the canvas needs to be out completely in order to do that! And to remove the whole thing, I think I might as well change the top and put a new one with the famous glass window, so that it never gets dark and doen not crease or fold incorrectly. I just don't know if may be that is silly and I should put the normal top with the plastic window on.

I feel confused. I wish I was in mainland US and could simply go somewhere and see the different options...

The Porsche dealer here is going to charge me a lot for changing the top! (removing one and fitting the other one).

Decisions, decisions!!

If you need to save a dollar and you keep your top down 85% of the time like I do here is the project.

1. take frame off car (again 30 minutes tops)

2. Take top to a guy who will hand stitch the window like my guy did

3. Put top frame back on in 15 minutes. Everything lines up perfect, no way to go wrong.

Yes the hand sewn is not as perfect as machine but NOBODY notices on my car and since my car sits the garage all year with the top down and only goes out on sunny days, no biggy for me. It's there to keep rain off me in a rare occurance.

If you have the most basic DIY skills you can have the entire frame/top off in 30 minutes, put in a pickup and take to your repair shop like I did...

I've done a Forum search and really couldn't find an answer so I'll pose it here and hope it's not an old subject. The pads on my 03 Boxster S are likely originals and hard as a rock. I'm not overly impressed with their stopping power even in moderate street driving, so it's time to replace them. There are so many different aftermarket brands out there that I don't have a clue as to what works best. I'm looking for a good solid street pad that generates a minimum of dust if you can have both worlds. Any input is appreciated.

Lyn

I have AXXIS for the rear and ESB for the front (or vis-versa) ... AXXIS only makes one pair that fits the S model.

Low dust -- and while I have only had them on the Boxster for ~550 miles -- I have had AXXIS all around on other cars.

M

Keep in mind your car is 6 years old and due for a brake fluid change to if you have not done it! Every two years is my suggestion for year round drive vehicles and it makes a heck of a difference every time!

it was quick fit a large chain in england

Here is the USA there are to "no-no-s" for having people help on unique cars. One is the dealer (aka stealer) and chain stores. They just don't see your unique model enough to know the unque functionality of subsystems such as and automatic HVAC system. I do contridict myself myself some as I always state AC systems are somewhat easy systems and general in their operation. At the same time I NEVER trust a chain that works on every type of make/model in the world. They will waste a lot of your money trying to figure out that which a Porsche indie/specialist will know in 15 minutes. That is just my take on "chain operations".

If you grandma has a Honda or a Ford, it maybe OK but not for your Porsche...

Ross,

AC systems don't purge themselves, it has a leak if the refridgerant is gone, plain and simple. Tell them to try harder or find another specialist.

The AC can come on regardless of temperature, for example the defrost mode in ALL late model cars will triger the AC to speed up the evaporation process of condensation on the windshield.

If the system is vacant of refridgerant then the AC compressor would not trigger under any circumstance unless a previous owner removed the high or low pressure sensor switches, which is highly unlikly.

Sounds like you need a better AC troubleshooter. AC is very confusing to those who are not knowledable but once you invest the time it's a very easy system to troubleshoot...only a few things can go wrong.

hi thanks for the reply

when the ac is switched on the pump kicks in as the revs at idle lower for a second could this be something to do with it also when they charged it for a second time it worked fine for a couple of weeks then all of a sudden was empty again when i asked them about it they said something about a purge valve that maybe faulty

The revs tend to drop on my cars as they age and the ac comes on. The concern is just "how much" they drop and for how long until the system recovers. Mind dips a couple hundred RPMs while at idle to, but recovered quickly.

As far as the pruge valve, I really have no idea what that would be. They may mean the value one fills the system with. If that is the case then they really are poor AC troubleshooters as this would be the easiest play to find a leak with dye and a light.

Not sure if this is a dealer or indie shop for all cars, but they do not seem to be strong in the AC department.

Ross,

AC systems don't purge themselves, it has a leak if the refridgerant is gone, plain and simple. Tell them to try harder or find another specialist.

The AC can come on regardless of temperature, for example the defrost mode in ALL late model cars will triger the AC to speed up the evaporation process of condensation on the windshield.

If the system is vacant of refridgerant then the AC compressor would not trigger under any circumstance unless a previous owner removed the high or low pressure sensor switches, which is highly unlikly.

Sounds like you need a better AC troubleshooter. AC is very confusing to those who are not knowledable but once you invest the time it's a very easy system to troubleshoot...only a few things can go wrong.

Although they may have removed it for a reason, it may well have simply been the stat was bad and they didn't want to replace it before selling/dumping the car. I wouldn't assume the worst.

Although I have not had issues with my water pump and thus have not researched it they usually fail with bearing concerns, so I doubt you have a problem. If they do in fact have an issue with the vanes falling apart (you should search the board to find the topic). Water pumps are an easy check and repair for someone who has done as much as you.

Personally, I would throw the stat in and start driving. If you see overheating and suspect water flow due to a faulty pump, deal with it then.

Don't stress to much. It's nice you are looking ahead to failure points but you'll drive yourself nuts. I know, as I used to be more that way with my other cars! I'd get a vibration in the wheel and assume a bad inner driver rather then a worn tire!

My comments are stickly hypothetical about running w/o proper operating temps as things really have to do with the tollerance of items in the engine.

The only concern of running w/o the stat is you NEVER got up to temp unless you road it hard and then sat it traffic on a hot day.

the primary concern is that internals never got to temp to expand to their proper tollerances for hot and spirted driving (as stated previously, high revs).

It also effects emissions but most likly has done little if any damage. It's just a rule of thumb to NOT do this with modern cars, but it doesn't mean any sure or serious damage was done.

Joe, I know you are very concerned about this project and went to the dark side of considering my complicated concerns, but this job is silly easy and cheap. Although failed thermostats are rare (in my oppinion) on late model cars they were very common in the 70s and 80s from my experience. I have yet to truly have one fail in 20 years but I still replace them from time to time.

The stat is easy to get to on the bottom of the car in the front as you can see from Maurice's photo. I did mine on a small lift but you can get at it with secure jack stands. The part has to be cheap, I think I got mine from the site sponsors.

Google the topic on how to test a thermostat and 1001 write-ups are sure to come up. I will not go into details as this is car 101 stuff that I am sure is well covered. They can stick open or stick closed and I've read of the spring breaking in rare occasions.

Now go by the Bentley from site sponsors as well as the Durametric software and a $30 thermostat. You have most likely saved yourself $1000 bucks from going to the stealer over what is a automotive hang nail.

Quite driving the car until you get this figured out. Low temps are bad for your engine and emissions!

You have not listed the #1 reason for such symptoms...a stuck open thermostat. Has this been checked?

Running a vehicle under temp any length of time is very bad for it!

I doubt you have any concern with the heater core as this should not affect operating temps. Maybe someone could comment on the location of the temp sensor too to make sure a blockage would not prevent heat and proper temps even knowing the vehicle is operating at proper temps. I am sure nobody has built cars that way since the 80s :rolleyes: