rsfeller

Sorry, just did a search and found much discussion on this. Thanks, and my apologies.

This is common (flat 6 engines) and covered in great deal on the board, do some searching and you'll find everything you need.

I just removed the horn when I got home from work today, used a 9V, trying both polarities, and it makes a faint click, but no chirp. So I would assume that it is just a faulty horn (which makes sense considering the horn looks quite weathered.) Now I just need to order a new one, would anyone by chance remember/know what the part number is?

and if you give a humble donation to the website and Loren you'll have access to the part number listed and suggested retail too! Just ask how...

It sounds like a faulty electrical connection to the alarm horn or a bad horn. You can take a 9 volt DC battery and check your horn. I replaced mine from Sunset for under $25 plus shiping from Oregon.

Good luck!

kbrandsma may be over thinking this unless I am missing something. When I bought my 986 both horns had failed and were unable to make sound....I think they were $20 a piece from SunSet and easy to replace.

I'm a worrier. I was seemingly born that way. In the six months of ownership, my 986S has done nothing to alleviate that worry:

Dead battery replaced

MAF replaced

AOS replaced

Ignition cylinder replaced

Expansion tank replaced

Rear trunk cable replaced

The car passed Porsche inspection before I parted with cash for it. Of the six months of ownership, it has spent three weeks with Porsche.

I check for oil leaks every day.

I drive it listening for the sound of a failed IMS.

I love it to death, more than any other car I've driven apart from a BMW 2002tii, but sometimes I think it's the wrong car for me. :huh:

Again hopefully you did some research before buying, but most dont...

1. NOt really the builders problem

2. common failure item 101

3. common failure item 101

4. common failure item 101

5. not so common but more concerns be listed

6. easy fix

That's about par stuff for a used car and nothing expensive unless you felt compelled to take it back to the Porsche stealer who should have given you a simple warranty anyways.

I see nothing unacceptable here, let the buyer beware.

I have a rule of buying used cars. All used cars need $1000-3000 in the first year...or chances are the owner would have not been selling it.

A $1000 engine repair is just as devistating for the average Vw owner as a $5000 repair for a newer porsche owner.

We're talking 986s, though- they're not exclusive cars anymore, they're squarely in the price range of anyone with more than a fast food job. You can buy a 99 or 00 for less than it costs for a dealer engine replacement, and that's pretty damned devastating to most Boxster owners. It's equivalent to a $15k repair on a Toyota Yaris.

I'd hope anyone buying a Porsche does so with the understanding that parts are 3x more expensive than for a mainstream car and a trip to the dealer's repair bay is going to set you back $1000 before they even turn the car off, but the engine failures that do occur go way above and beyond the basic Porsche tax.

True but I can also buy a BMW 850 for $11,000 and it freak'n tune up will set you back a few bucks. What you can afford street value doesn't change the fact the car is expensive to maintain. Sensibility and research come into when you know you are buying something that was at one time bought and owned by a guy who was better off then 75% in the country.

Regardless the same questions are asked on all websites. All makes models have one major concern or two that is across the platform of given models with few exceptions of almost perfect cars. These fixes can hurt a Vw who is living within his means just as much as a Porsche owner who is not...

My 04 is running great, no problems! I haven't started many threads lately about it, though ;)

Well, besides the CD player on the fritz, but odds and ends are going to break on a 4+ year old car and Porsches are no exception. Frankly, if you can drive this car for 2 months and then think about selling it for a miata... you don't deserve it! :P

I see the same question on my Saab and Vw posts from new owners. They all want to know why everyone is complaining and there are so many problems. If you take the time to study the comments there are only a few (but major) big concerns and the small ones are consist and easy DIYr, like all cars.

VWs don't usually cost $15k to repair if a seal lets go, though...

The cost of the repair doesn't matter in this discussion or my response in my opinion. Each car and each vehicle should have a sliding scale of the economics of the buyer. I am on the lower end of income for a newer Porsche owner but as a solid DIY'r I'm willing to take that chance.

A $1000 engine repair is just as devistating for the average Vw owner as a $5000 repair for a newer porsche owner.

I agree with your comment about the Miata comment but I'll take it a step further. If you do decide to buy a Porsche, you need to do your research and understand it's not a cheap car to own especially if someone is not a DIY'r. Those who bought such w/o research may deserve the surprises they may receive.

you answered your own question. people seldom come to forums to tell you their car is running great. if you are not technically savvy or a good DIY'r then this data will look overwhelming.

I see the same question on my Saab and Vw posts from new owners. They all want to know why everyone is complaining and there are so many problems. If you take the time to study the comments there are only a few (but major) big concerns and the small ones are consist and easy DIYr, like all cars.

If you bought a car you cannot maintain then that is your own fault, but this car will most likly turn out to be not much more or less reliable then any other car you will own assuming you know the previous history and you do the right things...

It would be soooooo easy to make comical some off-topic reply comments about this problem!!!!!!!! :D

Yea, that is why we don't do the obvious...

My shifting got stiffer over time and it appears to be related to the linkage and return at the 5sp transmission. We rulled out shifter (bushing), cables and with lots of oil on the pivot points of the shifting linkage it got loser and returned to N better. I'll re-oil in the spring.

Shawn

So here's the question,

I have the durametric software already, which is fine for checking on codes etc. I'd really to get something better, preferably so I can change settings, add and program a new key to my vehicle, etc. I don't feel or see the need to purchase a completely new laptop or the Porsche touch screen bosch knock-off for $2500.

I'm a pretty computer saavy guy, in fact my job is software engineering. I've got more laptops, servers, and old pcs laying around the house that I can't justify paying more for things I already have.

For an 00' boxster S, I don't quite fully understand what the difference is between the KTS 500 and the PST2, or if an even older model such as the KTS 300 would even work. I don't understand the relationship as to why people are saying they need a PST2 vs. a KTS 500 and what the differences or "lack of functionality" exists between them.

On the otherhand, isn't there some simplistic way to either "build" an interface cable, purchase whatever PCMCIA card you need for a laptop, and obtain and install the software yourself vs. paying for a closed-loop system? What's the value in a PST2 / KTS 500? I assume it's the "key" to unlocking all the things you normally have to take your car to a porsche dealership for, such as programming a new key to your porsche?

Thoughts? :huh:

My thought is your best answers are going to come from Duram the developer of durametric. He's always quick to answer my questions and he could explain to you better then anyone (as software geek to software geek) the concerns with cables and propritary code. Duram will develop and fix things on demand, he did for me and getting the HVAC values a few years back. If he had the oppertunity to do security based items he would and there is a reason for it is my guess. I believe reading from him years ago that that data is propriatary from Porsche. Now you argument is why cannot the right cable and such solve those needs, which I cannot answer...but I know he can. Drop him a line through his website and you'll get more info then you need...he's as sharp a guy as I would expect.

But then again maybe someone on here knows better...

Thanks for the info Shawn

Most of the time I can start the car, parked in a warm garage, drive around outside in the cold weather, activate the heater by pushing the auto button with no strange "flutter" sound coming from behind the glove box. (the sound is not a rough bearing sound). Occasionaly the "flutter" sound will start immediately when the fan starts.

Is there anyway of looking at the interior workings of these units without to much work.

Just some thoughts

Saraf

In regard to HVAC systems there is not much to go wrong. You have the servos that open/close the flaps, the fan motor and the air intake sensor. The only other think I can think of that may sound like a flap would be something intermitantly getting in/out fan blades. I had a leave get in my saab two years ago and come and go. Another time the bearings in the fan motor were sloppy and after making a long right turn the fan would slide on the axis and rub the side o the fan case and make a flutter sound.

I doubt the servos are to blame. The Durametric software would help with that diagnosis. Taking a part any car dash is not fo the faint of heart and usually not neded. With most cars a particular problem can be address from under or behind.

Any chance it's comeing from the main fan and heater core housing? This is a 2 hour job to open up (as well shown in Bentley) and you could monitor the fan with the top cover off.

See my write-up for some very unrelated discussion:

Additionally, I have heard temp intake sensor fans "flutter" before. They just pop out you can unhook it and run w/o to see if that may be to blame for the noise.

Shawn

Are you sure this is not more present all the time? On the right side of the car is the air temp intake sensor and it has a fan to push the air flow in. It can buzz pretty bad (bad bearings?) and I've seen them busy in other make/models pretty good too.

Shawn

We'll your comment assumes a "glance". I true high speed rear end would make my head explode like a water mellon with that roll bar. I purposely have to put my seat up a notch or two on the rails (more then I want) just to keep my head from the roll bar as you state, just to glance. If my seat is 100% back I can 100% contact that hard rollball, and it would split my head.

After driving volvo, saab and the likes by day (no whimpy asian head rests) I am not comfortable with my porsche headrest/bar setup.

Shawn

I believe that type of foam will do you brain little good in a harsh hit, maybe only assist is something minor. It's just not useful for high impact situations.

I would much rather that he buy it through the RennTech.org Amazon store - so RennTech.org can get a small percentage. ;)

Porsche Boxster Service Manual: 1997-2004 Boxster, Boxster S (Robert Bentley) (Paperback)

Sorry I totally forgot about that. Will recommend in the future!

I know you will interpret this comment as rude, but that is not the intent...its to make sense of your logic.

1. You own a Porsche

2. You hope to do some DIY work to save $$ on an expensive car to own if you do not do DIY

3. You think a $50 investment in a book is expensive?

Owning a Porsche a sign fix is not the end of the relationship. My book is opened every 3 months for specific needs, not just fun reading.

Honestly I tell every newbie on this site who just buys a used boxster to do the right thing and spend $250 on Durametric and find a used Bentley on on ebay or Amazon for $50-60, that is how I got mine. That $300 investment along with the great experience and opinions of this board (and others) will save thousands in the first few years.

If you were more specific to a particular repair group or need I'm sure many here would share a page or two from the P-tech info that is floating on the net, but come on you own a Porsche, you cannot complain about the price of a incredible reference book!

It's not unlike the boating world. When you own a money sucking boat nobody at the marina wants to hear your concerns!

BUY NOW

Are the early 986 Boxsters that were built in Stuttgart rare by any means? To my understanding, only the very early 1997 Boxsters were built in Stuttgart and all Boxsters after that have been built in Finland by another company that contracts through Porsche. So I'm assuming there's a very small number of the "Stuttgart Boxster's", but are they considered rare?

:renntech:

We'll the answer is in your question, I believe and I'm sure I'll be corrected by the historians.

But the way I understand the story (and I just reviewed the Motorbooks Porsche Boxster by John Lamm...the story seems to be that they are just building them in parallel to the German plant, not replacing that. Maybe that has changed more recently. That Finish plant when online in May of 1997. I guess the concept of rarity would be based on how many at each facility is being built. Since the German plan was building almost a year before Finland...there could be more built during those 986 years.

You seemed to be concerned with rarity or value which there appears to be no concern at this time. Of course we know the purists out there who prefer the German built for no good reason other then it's "german built". Even knowing my 1997 is is German I would take no offense to the ones built in the old Saab convertible plan, as I have three Saabs in my stable!

I am sure in the long run there may be value in product A over product B.

The article is still up, copy paste link then remove the spaces in between the letters within "a s s"

here is the gist of the article

"By Stephan Wilkinson

November 7, 2008 - 3,804 views

Are you aware of the appalling rate of Boxster engine failures, which I’m only now becoming aware of through participation in some Boxster forums? Some estimates (Bruce Anderson, for one) are that 20 percent of Boxster engines don’t make it past 100,000 miles witout a catastrophic failure. The standard failure is what the cognoscenti universally refer to as the IMS–the intermediate shaft. It’s apparently bolted together, and the bolts fail, then everything internal claps hands and you’re looking at a replacement crate engine. I’m hoping the fact that Susan never revs past maybe 4,000 will spare us, but I’d be careful if I were you. There was a recent Porsche Club event that 11 Boxsters participated in. One had an IMS failure during the event and two of the other Boxsters participating had previously had their engines replaced due to IMS failures. Three out of 11 equals 27 percent. It’s a quiet secret within the Porsche community, and there are reasonably knowledgeable people who claim these engines were built as cheapies to get through the warranty period unscathed–which the apparently often don’t–and that PAG hasn’t the faintest interest in second, third and fourth owners. And they used to say the entry-level Porsche was a used Porsche."

IF the facts are true it can be hard to argue we'll find out more when everyone starts getting to 100K+miles. Why would it be a "secret with the P community"...are we not admit when your toys are flawed?

So what was "the short" of the rumor before it was pulled down? Just the supposed high failure rate?

Hey all, I have a stupid ?

I have a couple of rough spots in my accelleration. 1 at about 2500 and another at about 3800. You cant feel them when accelerating hard, just under slow acceleration or deceleration.

I cleaned my MAF and it helped a bit but i can still feel it.

In my area, I only have access to 91 gas.

could gas be an issue?

what octane does my 99 2.5 boxster need?

91 oct is fine

bad gas would show non specific rpm issues and obviously work its way out after a tank. bad fuel pressure from a clog would have more then a rpm drop, more like a full cut out.

even a clean MAF can need replaced. if not CEL i would check your plugs too before a new MAF.

This is the 3rd winter I will be storing my 2006 987S. I have had great success each year following a few simple steps, all discussed here in many posts. I also follow the Porsche Owner's Manual. There is NOT a single recommendation in the Owner's Manaul to start and run the car during the storage period.

My car sits from mid October till early April. I NEVER START OR RUN THE ENGINE DURING THIS TIME PERIOD. In early spring, I turn over the engine by hand (by pushing the car in 5th gear for about 10-15 feet) and then start it, and go for a long drive and buy a fresh tank of fuel. The car starts great...no smoke...no noises...sounds like a pre-warmed engine restarting.

I know in boating there is much discussion amount people about fuel tank full or empty, does you theory assume you store with an empty tank. Most experts agree to store you boat with a full tank of gas, this allows for less air and thus less water intrusion via condensation into the gas. Doubt that is much a concern with our little tanks compared to 280 gallons in my boat!

Curious to why you turn the engine by hand? Are you assuming there is little oil left on friction surfaces and thus fear a "hard start"? Sounds good to error on the side of caution!

You have to use some logic here of "why". There is no advantage to "starting" a car during the winter other then to charge the battery. Obviously to keep your battery alive you can do that with a trickle charger if needed. (note: my 4 year old battery survives every winter in Ohio w/o one charge in a cold storage garage). So if you feel compelled to start your car then the only reason you should go 20 minutes is to allow everything to get up to temperature inside the engine "stuff" so it burns off any water vapor which is obviously bad for a "sitting" system. Starting you car for 3 minutes will create condensation that never gets nuked as the engine never gets hot enough. So starting for short periods w/o getting up to temp is far worse then not starting at all.

Now there is merit (especially in older car, hell any car) to driving it from time to time to keep grease (c/v joint for example) from drying out and other systems flexible and lubed. But well cared for cars really don't need that either. We all know a car runs better when driven regularly then when sitting with little attention...so that is why the "drive logic" prevails.

Now before anyone jumps on here to challenge my logic about the engine keep in mind where we live our boats (from 12 footers to twin engine 1000hp go fasts) sit all winter in cold and warm storage here in Ohio w/o being started. Of course they are winterized which only means the fluids were changed and that fogging oil is dropped in the carborator. Those with FI go w/o. My boat is 22 years old and that is how it lived it's entire life...winterized, fogged and parked in a cold garage and those twin 351 Ford blocks start the first time...every time. I do pull the 3 deep cycle and 2 starting batteries and keep them in my warm garage and trickle charge them from time to time.

Now some tires will develop flat spots from setting all winter. I would suspect softer the compound (or cheaper the tire?) the more likely this is true. I have both cheap and soft (Kumho) tires and every spring the flat spot drives out in 2 minutes on the road. Older tires will obviously not "snap back" as well. You are better off to block a car to take pressure off the tires but that is not easy on a low car. Additionally a reduction in stress on struts can make them fail (I have heard)...I think the logic is that an unloaded strut can lose some gas? Not sure about that one...

Change fluids and park it is my theory.

It works for me...but if you have the option to run it each month, why not. Just make sure you get it up to operating temperature before you put it back away. Burn off the condensation!

Therefore, don't crank her up at all till spring ?

I do agree with Mike and forgot an important topic worth considering, A/C. A/C system seals do like to be lubricated with a a startup from time to time. I think most experts tell you to run your AC every couple weeks or month even in the winter to get them lubed. Dry seals do leak freon for sure.

I would be negligent on that one item not starting my car all winter but my A/C works just fine each summer too, for now.

So unless you car it put away and hard to get. Find that warm dry/day each month to run the bugger if you can!

Minor smoke is common during start up (and inconsistant) due to the design of flat engines...and intermitant white smoke can be the prelude to the ultra common failure of the AOS which is documented 1001 times here on this (and other) site. Some never get a warning others talk of what you state.

Of course it could be coolant but that is easy to determine if you coolant level has dropped and if so a coolant pressure test.

My money is on the AOS. Start searching!

AOS = Air Oil Separator.

You have to use some logic here of "why". There is no advantage to "starting" a car during the winter other then to charge the battery. Obviously to keep your battery alive you can do that with a trickle charger if needed. (note: my 4 year old battery survives every winter in Ohio w/o one charge in a cold storage garage). So if you feel compelled to start your car then the only reason you should go 20 minutes is to allow everything to get up to temperature inside the engine "stuff" so it burns off any water vapor which is obviously bad for a "sitting" system. Starting you car for 3 minutes will create condensation that never gets nuked as the engine never gets hot enough. So starting for short periods w/o getting up to temp is far worse then not starting at all.

Now there is merit (especially in older car, hell any car) to driving it from time to time to keep grease (c/v joint for example) from drying out and other systems flexible and lubed. But well cared for cars really don't need that either. We all know a car runs better when driven regularly then when sitting with little attention...so that is why the "drive logic" prevails.

Now before anyone jumps on here to challenge my logic about the engine keep in mind where we live our boats (from 12 footers to twin engine 1000hp go fasts) sit all winter in cold and warm storage here in Ohio w/o being started. Of course they are winterized which only means the fluids were changed and that fogging oil is dropped in the carborator. Those with FI go w/o. My boat is 22 years old and that is how it lived it's entire life...winterized, fogged and parked in a cold garage and those twin 351 Ford blocks start the first time...every time. I do pull the 3 deep cycle and 2 starting batteries and keep them in my warm garage and trickle charge them from time to time.

Now some tires will develop flat spots from setting all winter. I would suspect softer the compound (or cheaper the tire?) the more likely this is true. I have both cheap and soft (Kumho) tires and every spring the flat spot drives out in 2 minutes on the road. Older tires will obviously not "snap back" as well. You are better off to block a car to take pressure off the tires but that is not easy on a low car. Additionally a reduction in stress on struts can make them fail (I have heard)...I think the logic is that an unloaded strut can lose some gas? Not sure about that one...

Change fluids and park it is my theory.