Server Lease Renewal/Software Licenses
Our yearly server lease, software licenses, as well as hardware operating costs, ARE due Dec 6th, 2021. Our current donations have fallen far short of the funds we need to renew. Please remember the RennTech.org community is Member supported so please consider a donation to help... THANK YOU!
Welcome to RennTech.org Community, Guest
External Paint Colors
Porsche TSB Listings
Everything posted by A. C. E.
2015 Porsche 911 Carrera 4 GTS. Purchased from the original owner in 2018 (3y 1m after initial delivery) with 98 miles. Coolant pipe started to leak intermittently in May 2020. It was an intermittent and a slow leak. I never had to add any coolant to the coolant reservoir. Then during my first two drives in 2021, the coolant pipe leaked each time. Although I am still under CPO warranty and if anything I trust my local dealer far more than the independents, I chose to fix this myself. I found plenty of coolant leak complaints on various forums, but it seems 991 owners had them fixed under warranty. I did come across a Rennlister in the UK who clarified some of the questions I had. The typical coolant leak in the 991.1 and 991.2 models. Some owners have had issues with leaking coolant pumps. Luckily I haven't...yet. I didn’t want to drain the whole coolant system, so I parked my 991 in my sloped driveway with the nose down. By the time I set both back wheels on car ramps, the engine was far above the rest of the coolant system. I drained 8.5 liters of factory coolant. Upon filling, it took just over 8 liters and will get topped up after the next few short drives. I have a vacuum filler, but it was not necessary or used. I used a 1000 ml graduated cylinder and marked off each liter with an automatic punch and later filled in each punch hole with a permanent marker. Text within brackets eg. (#25) refer to the parts in this diagram. I removed the E10 Torx bolt - M6 x 12 (#30) that fastens the silver coolant pipe (#25) to the engine block. After removal of that fastener, that pipe can now be pulled out of the thermostat housing (#19). I removed the E10 Torx bolt - M6 x 12 (#30) that fastens the black coolant pipe (#26) to the cover of the high pressure pump. Without removing that bolt, you won’t be able to remove the black coolant pipe from the thermostat housing (#19). I removed the E10 Torx bolt – M6 x 16 (#29) that fastens the black coolant pipe (1) to the thermostat housing (#19). That black coolant pipe can now be removed from the thermostat housing. Coolant pipe 1 is #26 in the Coolant Parts Diagram. Coolant pipe 2 is #25 in the Coolant Parts Diagram. Coolant pipe 3 is not shown in the Coolant Parts Diagram. Shown is the coolant pipe retainer after the E10 Torx bolt – M6 x 16 (#29) that fastens the black coolant pipe to the thermostat housing (#19) is removed. I removed the two E10 Torx bolts – M6 x 20 (#9) that fasten the guard plate (#22) in place. Then I removed the electrical connector that the guard plate covered. I removed the two E10 Torx bolts that fasten the thermostat housing (#19) to the engine. I removed the two E10 Torx bolts that fasten the thermostat housing (#19) to the engine. This bolt (removed) attaches the bracket (#32) on the coolant pump to the thermostat housing. I removed the two E10 Torx bolts that fasten the thermostat housing (#19) to the engine. The thermostat housing can now be moved to the rear allowing access to the O-ring (#12) and mating surface of the plastic coolant pipe (#11). O-ring (#12) has been removed and the mating surface as well as the groove for the O-ring has been thoroughly cleaned. The plastic coolant pipe (#11) has been updated but in order to replace it, the coolant pump and other parts would have to be removed. This can be done at a later date or when this joint leaks again. The updated part is shown near the end of this photo series. After a long drive, no more leaks. Note: although the points where the fasteners are, are flush, there is a 0.019” gap between the plastic coolant pipe and the thermostat housing between the fastener points. It could be why Porsche updated the plastic coolant pipe and added gussets. I’ll get around to installing the updated coolant pipe if I have further issues down the road, but that involves taking off the coolant pump and other parts. At the moment, I want to drive! Original PN: 9A1 106 238 00 Updated PN: OPB 121 076 Those nubs are there to keep the water pipe seal (#12) in place while it sits in the groove of the water pipe (#11). The issue is the groove is wider than the width of the seal allowing it to squish and flatten more easily. Maybe that is why this joint leaks after a period of time. Original PN: 9A1 106 215 00 Updated PN: OPB 121 437
According to my 2015 Porsche Owner's Manual, "The difference between the minimum and maximum marks (those two white lines in your pic) on the segment display is approx. 1.8 quarts (1.7 liters)". If we assume the gauge is linear, then 0.45 quarts per segment. So adding a quart should give you an extra two segments as you mentioned.
Why do I need to see that Green Banner with The RennTech.org community is Member supported! Please consider an ANNUAL donation to help keep this site operating. When I already made a DONATION?
This is exactly what my friend with a 2005 911 Carrera S 997 was experiencing. It would start easier when "cold" but had trouble starting after the engine had been warmed up; almost as if the battery was nearly dead. So he went out and bought the much talked about cable that members on Rennlist advised. Lots of talk, but very little testing. Yes, I realize when a cable at the crimped end turns "bluish", it is a sign of high resistance and heat, but that was not the case in my friend's 997. But he bought the cable, so I installed it. Easy, but what a job! So after installing it, I expected no difference and that was exactly what it was. I ran a load test on the battery and checked the alternator, no issues found. BUT this is what I found when I removed the starter and disassembled it. Just look at the commutators...first pic before, second pic after I cleaned up the starter armature and cleaned up the commutators. More info here: Porsche 997 Starter
I am doing the same. My manometer will be here by the weekend. All I need to do is make the connection to the oil filler cap. I was over at my friend's place yesterday and ran my code reader on it again after some codes popped up again. It looks like he has two less codes on the Readiness cycle since last week. All that is left stating "Not Ready" is the Evaporative System and Secondary Air Injection. I don't know his 997 or my own 991.1 GTS like I know my 993 (like the back of my hand). I had a quick look in his engine compartment and this is what I noticed. Nice that you can see an engine, unlike my 991.1. Notice the damp oil residue at the intake plenum and throttle. Time to take it apart, check seals and the AOS.
Good info JFP and Silver_TT! I bought some of the components to make a smoke machine but haven't been able to get to the hardware store to get the rest of the items. As for a manometer, I have one on order. I can use it for other purposes as well.
I've been on Renntech now and then for about a decade. Spot on and exactly what I was thinking. It is hard to get a hold of my friend and his 997. He isn't very technically inclined, so this will be left to me. I might look at his AOS as well since it is original. His 997 has about 110,000 miles on it.
A. C. E. posted a topic in 997-1 Series (Carrera, Carrera 4, Carrera 2S, Carrera 4S)I am helping my friend out with his 2005 Carrera S Cab - 6 speed. He just put it back on the road after winter storage. The battery was disconnected. I advised him to take it for a long drive. Initially, the idle was "hunting" and sometimes early on it would stall but that is no longer the case. It now runs smoothly. He does have a Durametric Pro and so do I, but since he has a Cab and it was sunny out (it was tough seeing the laptop screen), I used my LAUNCH. Codes that came up: P2177 - Oxygen Sensing Adaptation (FRAU) Bank 1 Lower Load Range P2179 - Oxygen Sensing Adaptation (FRAU) Bank 2 Lower Load Range P2187 - System Too Lean At Idle Bank 1 P2189 - System Too Lean At Idle Bank 2 I deleted the codes and off he went, but speaking to him this morning, a CEL came back on. I haven't had a chance to connect to the car since. Now this may still be the result of the Readiness test not being complete, even though he drove about 30 miles. I also have not looked into the engine compartment to see is a vacuum line if off (most noticeable at idle). I also got a Data Fuel Trim Adaption (did they mean Adaptation) Lower Load (FRAU) b1 and b2 of 0.999268 and 0.999909. What do those numbers represent? If that is a Lambda number, great, but that is a guess. It was slightly lower when the car was cold and started up 0.892181 and 0.820152 and if that is a Lambda number I can understand it running richer initially. Fuel Trims are normally in percentages. By the way, I am sure some of the experts here know what FRAU, RKAT, RFAO and more of these acronyms stand for. Is there a list somewhere?