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BruceP

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Everything posted by BruceP

  1. Thanks BruceP for your input. How many miles did your car have when you caught the immenet IMS seal failure? Doesn't the engine/transmission have to be separated to verify? Was that caught when fixing RMS or perhaps a clutch replacement? I have read that a RMS leak could be lived with until clutch replacement time as long as oil level is monitored. Your last statement is correct. A run of the mill RMS leak is not fatal as long as you don't care about your driveway. You could wait until it's clutch time, if that's what it is. My car had about 57,000 miles on it when the IMS seal failure was found. Yes, you have to separate the engine and transmission to see it. We only found it, ironically, because I was putting in the LN IMS bearing retrofit as a preventative measure. Here's a pic of what they found. This transpired over the last 8,000 miles or so, since I had the clutch done at that time and there was no sign of this. When they pulled it apart, they also found that the shaft was filled with oil, which is a bad sign.
  2. If it was my car, I would have it looked at soon. IMO, the RMS is not normally something to freak out about. It's just a leak, and the newest seal, properly installed, is very good. But from what I've seen in my little corner of the world, rear main seals don't fail suddenly. To go from dry to some 'sweating' is one thing, but to go from dry to dripping oil calls into question whether it's actually the RMS at all. Lots of things can cause oil leaks on this car (I've enjoyed three different kinds myself, plus an imminent IMS seal failure caught in the nick of time), and where you see the oil isn't always where it's actually coming from. Most are not scary, but if I were you I'd want to know.
  3. I've always thought it strange that Porsche even offers the option. I can't imagine Ferrari giving you a choice of background colours for the cavallino rampante... That said, they do offer the option, just as they do with wheel center caps and keys. It's their brand, and they're good with it. So I wouldn't worry about tradition. If it looks good to you, do it.
  4. You might consider a second opinion. Dealers don't make much money tracking down electrical problems, whereas a battery can be installed in a fraction of the time assumed in the book price. My car went through 7 batteries in its first six years of life. Dealer each time said that the car was fine, and that it had simply not been driven enough. After number 8, I took it to my indie. It turned out that the car had not one but two Lojack-type devices installed in it by the two previous owners (both at the same dealer), and both devices were still active. That's what was killing the battery. But no dealership mechanic could have made any money solving that problem, not in a flat rate system. They're out, and the butchered wiring is fixed. Still, the battery is one of only two places in the car where I have deliberately added weight (the other being an amp): I put in a heavy duty 760CCA battery.
  5. We found some leakage in my rear shocks at roughly 58,000 miles.
  6. Nobody talks about this much, but in fact there are two kinds of 'fixed' engines out there, and both types were swapped into cars with failed engines over the years. If just the top end of the replacement engine was repaired, it was not considered a reman and would not have been serial numbered as such. If both halves of the crankcase were replaced, it was considered a reman and serial numbered as such. I have an excellent source for this, but I'm happy to be corrected by a better one.
  7. My understanding is that a reman motor has the letters 'AT' between the engine type and the serial number.
  8. Thank you for the responses. I don't have the manual with me today, and Renntech seemed like the best immediate alternative. I'd be happy to return the favour any time.
  9. Maybe I'm the dipstick: How much oil is represented by the difference between the low line and the full line on the dipstick? I'm sorry if this has been answered. I couldn't seem to turn it up in a search. Thanks, Bruce.
  10. would you say your BMW rides more comfortably with the Bilstein HD than with the stock shocks? I know you weren't asking me, but... : ) I don't think there's a simple answer to that question. (I also have put Bilsteins on one of my previous E36s). What characterizes a gas shock is its rising spring rate under load. The more you compress a gas shock, the stiffer it becomes. A really well engineered gas shock will manage that process better, so the spring rate changes in a more linear way. This is even more pronounced when you're not lowering your suspension, since the shock has more travel through which to vary its spring rate. The net effect is that a great gas shock will feel more comfortable than your stock shocks when it's being asked to respond to small bumps. But compressed further, such as by a big bump or by lateral loading as you corner, that same shock will actually feel stiffer than your stock setup. That's why I like them for a 100% road-driven car: in a lot of situations, they'll actually out-handle a lowered, stiffer setup with aggressive sway bars will (sways transfer impact from one wheel to the opposite wheel in a corner, making it harder to keep all the rubber on the ground). (Then there's rebound damping, which would make this post twice as boring...) So, based on my experience, I'd say that the answer to your question is likely to be "Mostly, yes. Sometimes, no." okay... I can see what you mean.... I like the idea of more control when I need more speed but I like the idea of the shock absorber absorbing small bumps, potholes in regular speed situations... sounds what I'm looking for... so you say sometimes no... can you describe these situations when its *not* more comfortable... curious about this one... Fair enough. I guess what I really meant was that under higher loads - like a big pothole - the car is as firm or firmer than stock. So not less comfortable, just not more comfortable. But all bumps now feel 'round' instead of 'square'. So, more firm but less harsh, if that makes sense. I found that my old shocks tended to resist compression initially, and then give in all of a sudden. The result was a feeling of 'slamming' when you hit bumps. If you've ever tried to set up shocks on a dirt bike or a mountain bike, you'll know what I mean. Whereas the Bilsteins respond to everything, to the point where the car actually squats slightly on acceleration now, but also brakes more smoothly because the center of gravity shifts forward more naturally. It's all pretty subtle stuff, I guess. But I've always believed the fastest suspension is the one that's matched to the conditions. For me, this was it.
  11. would you say your BMW rides more comfortably with the Bilstein HD than with the stock shocks? I know you weren't asking me, but... : ) I don't think there's a simple answer to that question. (I also have put Bilsteins on one of my previous E36s). What characterizes a gas shock is its rising spring rate under load. The more you compress a gas shock, the stiffer it becomes. A really well engineered gas shock will manage that process better, so the spring rate changes in a more linear way. This is even more pronounced when you're not lowering your suspension, since the shock has more travel through which to vary its spring rate. The net effect is that a great gas shock will feel more comfortable than your stock shocks when it's being asked to respond to small bumps. But compressed further, such as by a big bump or by lateral loading as you corner, that same shock will actually feel stiffer than your stock setup. That's why I like them for a 100% road-driven car: in a lot of situations, they'll actually out-handle a lowered, stiffer setup with aggressive sway bars will (sways transfer impact from one wheel to the opposite wheel in a corner, making it harder to keep all the rubber on the ground). (Then there's rebound damping, which would make this post twice as boring...) So, based on my experience, I'd say that the answer to your question is likely to be "Mostly, yes. Sometimes, no."
  12. Brake fluid changes aren't mileage sensitive, they're time sensitive. Contamination is less of an issue than moisture is. Brake fluid is hydrophilic and can accumulate water over time even just sitting there. In my experience, even people who think their brakes are "fine" after years with the same fluid can be surprised at the improvement with a flush and fill. And in the meantime, you're keeping H2O and the potential for corrosion out of the braking system. Me, I change it every two years, regardless of use. I agree with larez2. Lots of preventative maintenance is the way to make these cars last, even with low mileage. IMHO, that includes oil changes. You have to bear in mind that Porsche's intervals represent the least frequent oil changes they can get away with. The reason is that German car manufacturers pay an environmental tax per car based partly on its petroleum consumption over its full expected service life. The less often oil 'must' be changed, the less they have to pay. The fact is that even at your low mileage, changing oil twice a year is going to improve the performance and durability of that engine - including the dreaded IMS bits - dramatically.
  13. For the front: F4-VN7-4612-H0 For the rear: F4-BE5-2993-H0 You should double check this, of course, because as my wife frequently reminds me, I am not infallible.
  14. I'm sure I'll get flamed beyond belief for this, but if you're sure you're still running the OE dampers, I'd consider putting OE springs on it and wait until you can get the suspension mod right. The H&R setup is fantastic as spec'd. But putting lowering springs on a car without matching them to shocks actually hurts handling (and for some slammed Hondas I've seen around here, even safety). I'm sure this is a very unattractive option, but I bet you'd enjoy the car more while you wait for the dream setup. These things don't ride that high. Anyhow, that advice and two bucks will get you a cup of Starbucks, I guess. Good luck!
  15. I think you have it sleuthed. :D FWIW, when I was shopping for suspensions, I looked at an H&R spring/coil-over combination for the 996 (too extreme for me). Maybe you have those springs, in which case matching the dampers will be easy. Not cheap, mind you, but easy. Good luck!
  16. A lowered car on 19" wheels is going to ride rough. It's the unavoidable price you pay, and as another poster said, better your teeth than your rims. I wonder if it's worth looking into adjusting your shocks? There's a good chance that the damping is adjustable, and you might be able to tweak things a little bit for your driving conditions. Just a thought. Me, I'd put the tire pressures where they belong for the sake of handling and braking and try to manage the ride with the shocks.
  17. There was some interest on this thread about how the Bilstein HDs worked out. I finally got this done, and for those people, here's my impression: So far, I seem to have got exactly what I wanted, ie "like stock, only better". The car's basic ride characteristics are about what they would have been when it was new. The improvements are at the margin: Better small bump compliance, less harshness on rough pavement, but more stiffness under load (what you'd expect switching up to any premium gas shock, with gas' natural rising spring rate under compression, made more linear), and most of the motorboating on entrance ramps is gone. I'm still running the stock springs and sways, for which these Bilsteins are matched (NOTHING worse than poorly matched shocks and springs!), and my original shock mounts were in perfect condition and thus reused. I'd say that if you want to preserve your stock ground clearance and drivability, and get about 120% of the handling performance the car came with new, these shocks are an excellent choice. But if you live where the roads are perfect and/or want to track the car, you'll probably want to go further. Hope this is helpful.
  18. Statistically inevitable. Even if they failed at the same rate, it would still be 'rare' just based on how few remans are out there. We just don't know. My point is simply this: Every M96 is a potential failure, because they all share the same design. What changes on a case by case basis is simply your odds. You have to do what you can, and then forget about it. The certain comfort you're looking for isn't available. I held my own 9 year old IMS bearing in my hands last night. It was in like-new condition. What was failing on my engine was the IMS seal. Given Porsche's history with the rear main seal, for example, I'd say that there's no case for "new is good, old is bad." I'd say there is a case for "new is better, old is worse. Maybe."
  19. My understanding as to why Porsche prefers lighter cold viscosities is that the valve gear gets lubricated faster on startup. Variocam is supposedly very sensitive to lubrication. I have zero interest in covering old ground about which cold viscosity to use. I've made my choice. But I find the latter argument to be very persuasive in any case, and would personally be anxious about a cold viscosity of 15, for example.
  20. Can someone explain to me why using an oil with higher cold viscosity would make any difference to the way the engine runs when it's warm? Every oil option being discussed here has the same warm viscosity. Confused.
  21. As I understand it, the theory about the seal issue is this: If the IMS tube fills with oil, then it can become unbalanced as it spins. My own (uneducated) belief is that this is the reason that so many failure stories happen at low rpms. In any case, the IMS design was a workaround to save them producing separate right and left heads. As most workarounds do, it had flaws. I think the bearing and the seal are both examples. See my post above regarding the LN Engineering bearing upgrade. Just had it done, and happy to answer any questions that I can if you're considering it.
  22. Do a Rennlist search. There is at least one member there who has had a reman fail. My understanding is that the IMS seal design has been updated a few times over the life of this engine, so people who got new motors early on might not enjoy the same confidence as those who had them done more recently.
  23. Original motor on my car, 94,000 km or so. I just did the IMS bearing upgrade retrofit last week. When the techs took things apart, two things: The IMS seal was starting to leak (only visible once the block and tranny were separated, no leaks visible from outside), and the IMS tube itself was filled with oil. The engine was a very strong running 3.4, trouble free. But it turns out it was probably only a matter of time.
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