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Please reread my posts. Carefully.
Ben, you're 100% entitled to your opinion based on your own experience. But to say that because you can't tell the difference, nobody on earth can tell the difference, judges the people who have spent their money differently than you, and isn't very helpful. In my case - one guy, one car - I could tell the difference with the changes I made, and I enjoy it. That's the truth.
Probably not. You should try searching YouTube. There are tons of clips there of Porsche exhaust sounds, some stock and some aftermarket. It's not perfect, but you'll do better than words could do.
Could you please elaborate on your explanation. In the simplest possible terms, a 'restrictive' exhaust isn't a mistake the manufacturer made. It's part of a strategy to give the engine more low end torque, which comes at the expense of horsepower lost because the engine can't pump its given volume of air through itself as quickly. Likewise, there's a reason that racing engines have so few parts aft of the headers. It's not because they like the noise. It's because at the speeds they operate, peak horsepower matters much more to them than torque. Lots of racing engines feel gutless at low rpms, which consumers would never accept. I'm sure there are smarter people than me here who can explain the science of lining up exhaust pulses, but that's the bottom line. There are good exhausts and bad exhausts, of course. And noise doesn't equal horsepower, but the two go hand in hand where exhaust systems are concerned. An exhaust system isn't about more/less power. It's about tuning. The engineers set parameters for how much low end grunt the consumer will demand, versus how much horsepower they need or want to brag about, stir in emissions and noise requirements, and that's what they build. Tuning, whether with chips or intakes or exhausts, changes that equation, creating a different set of compromises than the one the engine designer decided on. The only way to get more horsepower and more torque is to pump more air through the engine, ie. with more displacement, or forced induction.
What a properly engineered performance exhaust system does, basically, is trade off torque for peak horsepower. So it doesn't "add" horsepower per se, but it can change the way an engine makes power. A good one is not just about noise, but neither is it particularly useful for the way most people drive, beyond the sound.
There's a copy of the sticker inside your the service book or the manual... forget which. But it's a duplicate of what was under the hood. This site has a great option code look-up. I had always understood that the PSE had a switch on the dash. If that's correct, and you lack that switch, then that would be your answer. This wouldn't mean that you didn't have some other aftermarket exhaust, of course. Enjoy your new car!
BruceP replied to mmb's topic in 996 Series (Carrera, Carrera 4, Carrera 4S, Targa)I don't doubt you. But remember that the ECU is adaptive, chip or no chip. Just as an example, if I did nothing but urban commuting for a week and then 'unchipped', I wouldn't notice a difference either. Just like the stock car, the differences are more obvious the harder you drive it. Each to his own, but I wouldn't want the guy left with the impression that ECU flashes do nothing at all.
It's an example of why I like this forum, personally. This kind of aggressive moderating is what keeps the forum so focused and useful.
BruceP replied to mmb's topic in 996 Series (Carrera, Carrera 4, Carrera 4S, Targa)'Chip' tuning from a reputable manufacturer will not create any problems for your car. What's important to understand about this kind of tuning is that it makes its power by eliminating the safety margin the factory put into its timing/mixture parameters to allow for varying fuel quality and octane ratings. Once you've done this to your car, you have to avoid regular gasoline. My car has Revo's ECU flash, and EVOMS intake and exhaust. I have never dyno'd the car, and I avoid debates about increased power. What I can tell you is that the combination changes the character of the car very distinctly and very much to my liking. IMO, that's how you have to look at the ROI on this kind of mod. Enjoy your car!
Regarding Ben's comments: I guess it goes without saying that you should invest in a thorough PPI regardless of what you buy. With 996s, I've observed that the cosmetic condition of the car and its mechanical health have nothing to do with each other. The 996 was an easy car to live with compared to previous 911s, and so was probably the most leased 911 ever. Then, depreciation was bad enough that people bought these things used who couldn't/wouldn't give them the care they needed beyond wax and tire dressing. Get somebody under it who knows what they're doing, and insist on the service history. They're cheap Porsches to buy, but no Porsche is cheap to own.
I had my '00 modified with the IMS bearing retrofit earlier this summer. My IMS seal was leaking and the shaft was filled with oil, though there were no signs of it until the engine and tranny were separated. I got lucky with the timing. How much? Roughly the same as a clutch installation. Whatever that costs where you are is probably the ballpark. Does it work? It's manifestly beefier and better sealed than the original piece. Otherwise, once it's in, there is obviously zero observable difference. Will it get you 80k more from the engine? The truth is that nobody knows yet. The piece is too new. And while it's better, it doesn't alter the fact that the engine still has an intermediate shaft, the underlying design decision that created the problem in the first place. Based just on common sense, I'm telling myself that I've reduced the risk radically and that along with good maintenance (lubrication in particular) and driving habits (keeping those revs up, for example), the car is much more likely to last a long time. But if you want an ironclad guarantee, it doesn't exist. If you can live with that, go for it. IMHO, this motor is otherwise bone reliable for what it is, we're seeing some huge mileage on some, and there's a growing community of aftermarket support for the engine. In other words, it's a Porsche. ; )
that sounds like something. I keep a couple of bandaids in the car and that's a good enough first aid kit, for me ;-) so if that thing comes with a nice, small, plastic box that mounts nicely in the trunk.... Carnewal still sells the first aid kit, for a handsome 35 Euros. Unfortunately for your project, the kit comes in a soft pouch.
BruceP replied to MBEEZ911's topic in 996 Series (Carrera, Carrera 4, Carrera 4S, Targa)Must also disagree with wwest's assertion. The low mounting position of a fog lamp helps it do its job. But fog lights are also lensed differently and, more recently, often even use different light sources. In my Rangie, for example, the xenons are hopeless in fog, but the fog lamps are halogens and they help immensely. Likewise in snow. And especially at night. Front fog lamps are for seeing, not for being seen. Regarding the original topic of this thread, personally I would never wire up a second fog lamp in my 996, specifically because of the risk of confusion with brake lights. With my Rovers, on the other hand, the rear fogs are in their own housings in the bumper. There's no risk of confusing them with brake lights and thus there are two. Just my .02.
My understanding is that an AT numbered engine had the crankcase replaced, whereas an X engine just had a top end rebuild and is considered by Porsche to be repaired rather than remanufactured. At a minimum, this might help you narrow things down when you're Googling. My answer is just from memory, and I can't cite a source.
On mine, the trim panel that finishes off the console at the front, just ahead of the shifter boot, doesn't fit flush at the back. It leaves a little gap, which in my case is exaggerated by the fact that the trim panel isn't the same colour as the console. Anybody else had this fit issue? And has anyone come up with a brilliant solution? Thanks for reading, Bruce