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mee

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Everything posted by mee

  1. KevinC, are you Kevin the Slow in NYC? I posted a thanks for the pics on PPBB and referencing the diagram Loren had posted, but it got deleted by the PPBB police. I guess they don't like references to RennTech.org that much--only non-Boxster content is allowed these days ;)
  2. From a dealer and others, the air filter part numbers are the same, however, there is no way that the large round air filter of the 987 will fit into the slot of a 986 air box. So, the 986 SE air box must be different from the non-special 986. The question is whether it is the exact same as the 987 or some hybrid special design. If it is the same as the 987, this would imply that Porsche kept the mounting points/size/location at least compatible or that the 986 SE has special body mounting points/sheet metal etc. which I would guess would be unlikely. Also, I would guess it not too likely that Porsche would develop such a limited run Boxster air box. All speculation of course... If the 986SE or 987 airbox could be fitted to earlier 986s, this might make for a nice "Cold Air Intake" that would likely pass smog as well for those where visual smogging is required.
  3. None is best. They are a joke. The best ones raise octane a few "points" which if you read the fine print is defined as 1/10 of an octane number. So for $10 to $15 or whatever, you can get yourself 91.6 octane. Waste. Try to find a place that sells racing gas which can be difficult. Mixing in a few gallons of 100 octane will get you to 93 and will be a lot cheaper than the octane boosters. I am considering a chip which is more optimized for 91 octane.
  4. Enjoy! I do almost all my own maintenance so it is very reasonable. If you have a problem, check the archives here or on one of the other boards before deciding what to do. The expensive part comes when you start modding it. Mine is a 2000 S, and I have had no meaningful mechanical failures/problems. It is a FUN car!
  5. For the front, it's not in the picture. It's the strut top hats. For the rear, it's eccentrics 12 and 18. Toe and camber cannot be adjusted independently in the rear although #18 has a stronger affect on camber while #12 has a stronger affect on toe. The rear is a trial-and-error setup it's so touchy. Also, the top strut hats in the rear have a tiny amount of play (like 0.1 degrees), but it's not designed for adjusting camber.
  6. Agree with Skibum. The intake air is sealed from the engine compartment in either case. Now, removing the air box entirely or putting in a poorly-designed "warm" air intake would be a different story. macsak, do you have a picture of your 550 air box or recall if it is similar to the normal 986 air box? Obviously, the "door" to replace the filter must be different. I'm wondering if the MAF, air-tube, etc., are the same.
  7. Ummm... I have never heard of "suspension efficiency"? Maybe this is some concocted marketing term to increase the amount of repairs? You should be checking ride heights measured in inches or mm and compare to what others are. You should be checking alignment terms like toe and camber. For shocks/struts, you would be checking for excessive porpoising when going over bumps/dips and/or oil leaking from the units. With your low mileage, I would suspect alignment first. Unless your roads are absolutely terrible, suspensions don't wear out that fast. Alignments, however, can go out fairly easily.
  8. If you're worried about your springs, check your ride height. 74K kms doesn't seem that high. I would suspect alignment before suspension. Alignment is something you need to check on a regular basis--especially if you intend to drive your car hard.
  9. Check your rear alignment. This is kind of more difficult since it swapped ends a few times which is not something that is gentle on your suspension. I also don't mean if it's within spec or not since the specs are wide. I mean aligned to your driving needs by a shop that knows how to do performance/race Boxster alignments. If your rear alignment has gone out (particularly too little toe in), your car will be particularly unstable. Most people will not find this out until they push it too far. There are other possible contributing factors such as the driver, exact road surface conditions, etc. I don't think it's your tires. I had some joke N-rated Continentals and I trusted the car. It just had much lower limits of adhesion, but this will have little effect on overall balance/skittishness. If you are concerned about trusting your car, run even more toe in--like 996 rear toe in. You will wear out tires faster, but this may help you regain confidence in your car so that you can learn to drive it again. Good luck, and I agree, though, lose the S.
  10. The guy's name is Andy from Portland, Oregon. He put in Dansk headers, cats, and muffler (non-sausage style), Evo (I believe) intake, desnorked, and GIAC (I believe) ECU. He got 291HP. He was careful about doing before/after dynos, so I trust his numbers at least within some +/- statistical significance of dyno runs.
  11. Personally, I like the red calipers best, but I think painting them any other color than OEM is somewhat poseurish since they're not S brakes and not PCCB brakes. Also, colors other than black are a hassle because you "need" to clean them. No one cares about dirty black calipers, but dirty red or yellow? Just can't be seen. With your wheels, I think you will not have a good time cleaning them. I have 5 spoke wheels and red calipers, and it bugs me that there is always a dirty stripe behind one of the spokes on my calipers after I wash my car. On my other set of wheels which are similar in style to yours (BBS-like), it's next to impossible to clean the calipers unless I remove the wheels. If it were not for Porsche creating a fashion statement with colored calipers, I would stick to black. That's my 2 cents as I prefaced my comments with "personally"...
  12. I have only seen pictures of the one-piece Euro GT3 seats. I've heard they are very rare to actually see in person. I've heard mixed results as far as comfort. Comfort and fit are obviously a personal thing. I am mainly interested in better bolstering. Weight savings and increased headroom and legroom would also nice bonuses. Finally, the seats need to "fit" me--hence my inquiry. I don't find the stock ones fit me too well. If you have any comments, please post. If anyone in the SF Bay Area is willing to let me sit in them (and see if the Porsche "zoom" booster seat fits as well), please let me know. Would love to meet and compare mods. Thanks!
  13. The clear part IMHO looks a little ricey, but I do like the LED part. There is a similar non-LED version on eBay that some think is ricey, but I don't think the other set looks ricey at all. I think the Boxster lights are about 10 or 20 years out of date with doing the optics in the lenses. Other manufacturers have been doing the optics in the reflectors for 15 years plus. These definetely look more modern. Please post pics if you get them...
  14. Depending on how demanding you are of performance, I would highly recommend RE750s. I have them on the front and S-03s on the rear, and I can tell you that the RE750s just won't wear out. I think S-03s are rated 220 and the RE750s are 340. Granted the rears last 1/2 as long as the fronts, but I'm still very impressed with their longevity. Also, to my surprise, they are able to keep up with the S-03s on the rear very well. Note, that, however I am running 235s on the front which puts a little more rubber up front.
  15. I would say that it depends on who replaced the engine and how long it's been since the replacement. If a Porsche dealer replaced it, then that is good, and it may even still be under warranty. Also, if the newer engine has more miles on it, say 20K?, the less likely any new problems should occur. From what I've read, these engines tend to have early-life failures not from wearing out.
  16. If you have too much toe in, it is said that the outsides will wear more, however, I never noticed this--at least not enough to be statistically significant. What I found, however, is that if you run too much toe, you are basically pushing your tires sideways down the road, and they will shred so fast that it will be impossible for uneven wear to build up. If you're getting only a few thousand miles out of your tires, then I would suspect excessive toe or you do a lot of burnouts. If you're getting the typical 9K to 15K miles, then the outside wear is not toe, but camber. At least that's where I'd put my money (my 2 cents' worth, of course).
  17. Not really absurd. Almost all manufacturers' alignment specs are so wide that basically if the wheels are pointing forward, they will be "in" alignment. To say that your car is within spec isn't saying much. This is especially true with our high performance cars and low-profile tyres :) The camber doesn't have to be off by much for your tires :( to wear unevenly. When I say "off" that is also subjective on how you drive and your preferences for handling versus tread wear. As a rule of thumb, you want more negative camber for improved handling. When your car leans in a corner, the additional negative camber will help keep the tire's contact patch in the correct orientation. The trade-off, of course, is when you're not in a corner, the insides will wear more. You can go even further than what is needed to keep the contact patch in correct orientation when cornering. This will further accelerate inside wear to counter-balance extra wear on the outside if you regularly take corners fast. Another problem shows up if you have too much negative camber and you have a lead foot. Your acceleration/braking will suffer in a straight line. As you can see, there are a lot of factors to consider, so there is no one "right" alignment. The best advice would be to go to a "precision" alignment shop that will align your car to your driving habits and expectations. All this, and I haven't even started talking about toe. As a generalization, Tool Pants could probably stand to run a little less negative camber if tire wear is a concern. the_lonely_guy could probably stand to run a little more negative camber in the rear. Jeff, do you have a lead-foot?
  18. Good... it means you drive hard enough :) If you're really concerned, you can get a precision alignment. Basically, the factory allows rear camber from -0.8° to -1.8°. That's quite a range for you to still be in-spec.
  19. Tool Pants, you are a super sleuth!
  20. C130122, I think the link I posted above is what 'savinor' is talking about. Dealers should know what this adapter is. I doubt the pipe and clamps are rattling. It also took me about 2 hours without removing the bumper. The hardest part was getting the end pipes off--lots of wiggling and Liquid Wrench. Good luck!
  21. I recently replaced my muffler with an aftermarket one, but the aftermarket one used the original mounting clamps, tubes, etc. I find it hard to believe that they would be worn out, but you can probably get a new set from one of the online Porsche dealers like Sunset which is where I have gotten many parts from. Actually, I have an extra set of clamps, but not the sleeves (double-ended clamps). I don't have any affiliation or first-hand knowledge of using the "adapter" for the newer mufflers on the 2.5L, but here is a link on the Suncoast website I found for you: http://e-partssales.com/Merchant2/merchant...y_Code=986sport Note that it lists the optional kit for 2.5L motors for $120 whereas the later 2.7 and 3.2 don't need it. A dealer could probably confirm. I have my "S" muffler in the classifieds if all works out. Good luck!
  22. I guess it depends on what parts of the exhaust you are trying to retrofit. The '00 and newer have the precats in the headers which is probably not a desireable feature unless you're really the tree-hugger type assuming the ECU knows what to do with it. The cats for different years have different part numbers, but I don't know what the differences are. Similar story for O2 sensors. The mufflers I have read many times will interchange and the clamps/connector pipe part numbers are the same, but I have heard that on certain earlier years, a new mounting bracket setup is needed to fit the newer mounting style. Which parts are you trying to swap?
  23. Basically, the 996 C2 brakes are the "same" as the 986S, however, upon closer inspection, almost all of the key part numbers are different except for the front rotors and maybe sensors/clips. I'm trying to figure out exactly what is interchangeable or not between the 986 S and 996 variants. Does anyone know if the 996 330mm rear brakes (off a C4S/TT/GT3) will fit a Boxster S? In particular, I've heard that the rears will bolt right up. Has anyone actually done this and are the rotor offsets/brake line connections/etc. compatible? I know the front brakes of the C4S/TT/GT3 use a different wheel carrier with different bolt spacing, but I've heard the 986S can be retrofitted with the different wheel carrier as well. Anyone have some "concrete" information on what parts fit?
  24. I've seen a couple of recent posts of spark plug tubes leaking and the oil drops landing on the exhaust manifolds and burning off. Something else to check...
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