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mee

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About mee

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  • Porsche Club
    PCA (Porsche Club of America)
  • Present cars
    '00 Boxster S
  1. I didn't have noise in my rear track rods before I replaced them. I replaced them with race ones from ERP ($$$). No noise in probably 3 years. Very solid parts. In any case, the Hardrace stuff (I've seen before on eBay) looks scary. I would not trust my life with them (welded ends, etc.). I'm not saying they are dangerous, but I have bent/broken a lot more serious/beefy/better-made parts. This is a seriously critical suspension component. One thing to also check is the control arm ball joint. That is a possible source of play. When I put in my ERP track rods, a lot of the factory rubber/isolation was gone, so a lot more vibration was transmitted. It would make sense that the aftermarket track rods would make whatever is causing the noise to be a lot more pronounced/louder since it is transmitting more vibration.
  2. I think your tire installer is giving you BS. I've run a whole range of tires on my Y2K Boxster S, but not the PS2s. With stock sizes, I have found the front tire pressures are laughably low and the rears about right or a hair high. I would try 34 all around and see how you like it. Then fine tune +/- 1-2 psi per your liking and tire wear. The ContiSports are absolute garbage. With the PS2s and the right tire pressures, you will feel like you have a new car.
  3. One thing I can tell you is after I had my aftermarket flywheel installed the transmission is noticably louder on acceleration and at idle. On the positive note the car appears to reach the higher RPM's faster. What clutch did you use? The OEM unsprung or an aftermarket sprung-hub clutch? I'm also wondering if the clutch in the OP was sprung or not. This could make a significant difference.
  4. Sounds like for most people, it's the headlight switch. I replaced my headlight switch a few months ago. No difference unless Sunset sold me a 'dud' switch. Any more ideas? Like a lot of others, it's both Litronics not firing. Going to high beams a few times usually does the trick, but this is pissing me off.
  5. Get a good flashlight and go look to see what you're doing. I just did mine, and did not have any problems, although it takes a lot of fighting to get it in/out since there is just no space. If you think about it, the bolts fit/lined up before, so the the new mount should similarly go back in. Some advice I learned part-way through the process is do NOT do the lower bolts until you get the upper bolts in. Good luck!
  6. There is a replacement thread here on RennTech to use an aftermarket LCD panel from eBay. I think the cost is around $70. 'BoxsterGirlie01' just replaced hers over on 6Speed and said it was easy.
  7. You don't need to remove the rear bumper to change what other folks call the muffler. The stock one will just *barely* clear. I have not used the Supersprint, but do a careful check to see what kind of clamps/hardware it uses. I would not recommend re-using the stock pipe clamps (reusing tubes OK). The bolts in them, more or less, press themselves into a metal holder, and they are a PITA to spread apart and even then are oval. It's just not worth the swearing. I get fresh ones from Sunset (cost +20%) for under $10 each. R/R the muffler goes so much smoother.
  8. Unlike most, I think the stock clutch is also kinda whimpy. I am looking at these: http://www.specclutch.com/ either 2+ or 3+.
  9. No "mesh sock" on my 2000 S. Maybe, that's a deprecated 2.5L thing. In any case, although the tube is cheap, it is a major PITA to replace. My original one did not fail. It just leaked. It is a pi$$-poor design. The newer version seemed to fit tighter at the fittings. I suspect there may even be newer versions than the one I put in a couple years ago. I replaced the spring clips with hose clamps.
  10. I thought all 3.6L were VarioCamPlus, so why not 3.8L? VarioCamPlus requires ME 7.8, no? I thought only the '03+ 986 were 7.8. The earlier ones were 7.2 (except 2.5L). I have a 2000 Boxster and am also following threads on this topic.
  11. Nah. It's not going to happen. As I noted, the Dansk pressed is only a teensy louder than stock. On my Remus, it got louder than when new, but it only took about 5 miles up to 50 miles max to settle in. Glad you like the look, though.
  12. I don't think you'll get gas economy out of anything. The GHL is good for light weight and performance, but you will get a lot of sound (and resonance)--too much for me. There aren't many (any) lightweight mufflers out there that will not increase resonance substantially. In order to get rid of the resonance, you seem to need a lot of baffles and pipes which means a "full-sized" muffler. Others that give you some sound and performance, but no significant weight savings (about 2lbs) include Dansk and Remus. The Dansk is definitely a "little" sound, barely more than stock. The Remus is a middle amount of sound and a little resonance that doesn't drone you out. The Porsche Sports Exhaust is not supposed to drone and has a nice sound, but it is very expensive (2X) and adds almost 10lbs. There are others like Ruf that are too expensive to have been reported on. Others like Borla are of the lightweight variety and have been reported to have too much resonance.
  13. You seriously have to define "best". There is no best. Do you mean best HP, best sound, best at resonance, best looks, best price? No muffler does it all. What are your criteria?
  14. FWIW, the original 986 eGas MAF (with a 986 part number) is also used on the 996 TT. When used with the later style MAF program (i.e. 2001), the original runs the engine richer. Good luck with your project (saw on 6Speed as well). (mee a.k.a. arenared)
  15. I found no difference between the two MAFs when used with the right programming. With the wrong programming, it was down on power, but I don't remember how much. With the wrong MAF, your A/F ratios will be all wonky.
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