Vish_ster

No luck - these guys can't sell to public, per AZ law. http://www.20thstreetauto.com/porsche/porschemain.htm

Brilliant! Appreciate this extra mile of support very much, JFP! There is a local dismantler/recycler of Porsches with some banged up Boxsters - will ask them first thing tomorrow. If I can find a decent deal, I might just have it installed soon. I love this car - having driven it daily for almost 10yrs now, with no immediate plans of changing it.

My first thought, precisely. I was told, legally, these can't be resold? Not sure, if this an Arizona statute.

So after exhaustive set of tests, diagnosis was a bad MAF - no discernible exhaust leaks. $520 later....mostly due to the labor time from the tests, car is back home. Although, I'm told that the o2 behind the cat on bank 2 is sending weak signals...and sometime down the road a cat may be needed. I'm also told that new OE cats run to $1.5K and above...and there is an aftermarket vendor with cheaper cats. Any inputs or recommendations into where I can get this before? Thanks again, JFP!

Thank you again for your prompt insights, JFP. After cleaning the MAF and driving about 30 miles, a CEL as expected. Though lo and behold, compared to the previous three CELs of P1128 and P1130, I have a P0430....what am I chasing now? Did I mess up a cat? Or is the original CEL, P0153, finally revealing a failed O2 sensor? Cheers!

Issue was fixed - it was a vacuum leak due to the hose/tube (visible from the engine bay towards the seat area) from the motor to the front of the car. The entire hose/tube was replaced and the brake boost is back on. But what is strange, is this P1128 and P1130 that came on the very same evening, that I had picked up the car. Most forum hits lead to a bad MAF. My last one was replaced 60K miles ago @ 102K. I did these today, 1) Took the MAF off and sprayed the CRC MAF cleaner generously. 2) While this was drying, I started the engine, the idling was smooth with no variations, around 800 rpm. 3) Put the MAF back on, reset the DME by disconnecting and connecting the battery after about 5 mins. 4) Noticed a bit of variation in the idling ranging from 800-1000 rpm. How soon would I know if my MAF is indeed bad? 50 miles or more? Apologize if I'm bringing up one of the most searched set of error codes on the Internet, but I find it very strange that these codes came on, right after a major vacuum leak was fixed. Ah - one more thing, I noticed some white film right on the MAF, around where the green O ring/bottom portion of the MAF, gets attached to the intake manofold. No sign of any oil deposit. Did fixing the vacuum leak mess up the MAF? Thank you again for your insights here!

Makes sense, JFP! Thank you for your prompt response!

Porsche-mates, I came upon this issue a couple of days ago. I noticed while driving, the brake pedal became very hard to push down. Braking power seems to be there to some degree but the power assist is gone. I looked up some of the potential reasons for when a vacuum may not be there for the power assist, such as 1) Bad AOS - No white smoke, oil filler cap comes off easily, and no related engine codes. 2) Cold weather - so it is in the 50s in Phoenix but even when it warms a bit, the brake pedal is hard. Some other observations - not sure if related, i) Every once in a while, I get a CEL with a P0153. When I reset it, it stays off for a long time and when I go to higher altitudes, say Flagstaff or Prescott, it comes back on. Car did pass emissions last year. ii) Engine normally purrs around 7-800 rpm but at times, especially after this "hard brake pedal" issue, when the brake pedal is pressed, can go upto 1100 rpm. Recently, I've noticed that when the engine is idling, there seems to be some kind of a rattle from the back, not loud enough to be scary but enough to be noticeable. This becomes more prominent right at the point when the engine is turned off. iii) Since this is my daily driver, it has braved a ton of rain recently in the Valley here. Car is a 2000 S and has 163K miles on it and the last AOS was replaced at 102K miles. Plenty of other preventative maintenance has been performed to it, including the IMS upgrade. Brakes were recently updated as well. What could I be looking at here? Has the Brake Booster unit gone on me? Appreciate your ideas.

2000 S - will cross 160K miles this weekend... JuncoJones summarizes my experience so far too...bought the car with 58.5K miles, 7/2006 and been driving, ever since! Parts replaced due to failure 1) AC Compressor - 1 2) Water Pump - 1 3) AOS - 1 4) Convertible transmissions - 2 5) Coolant tank - 1 6) Engine mount - 1 7) MAF - 1 + 1 (as of 3/1/2016 @ 163K) :) 8) Original clutch and IMS upgrade @ 135K miles - 1 Other than the above, regular maintenance with fluids, brakes and tires, with oil changed at 7.5K miles intervals.

Loren - you rock! Now that I have a new gas cap there - that should eliminate the first two items ? I will look up the layout for the Ventilation lines health-check from the other items from Bentley - but any pointers off the block on what to look up. All these ventilation lines being detached - is that a plug and play i.e. if something is disconnected (due to jolts/mishandling), should I just put it back in place? Here is one more fact on the car - on 12/30/06, I got rear-ended - bumped basically at a stop light, which led to a fix-up-paint rear bumper job. Could this have triggered off any of the ventilation lines issues? I didn't have the CEL on before this incident. Thanks again for your promptness. Vish

Hi All, I'm backkkkkk... I got the CEL on, 2 weeks ago. :soapbox: Autozone called it the P0455 (Large leak on the EVAC). Looked up the Bentley - says the same thing. The guy at Autozone asked me to try on a different gas cap and turned off the light. Came back on today again... :censored: There were two threads here on this code in this forum but there were other ones along with this p-code in these threads. I'm only having this code from the OBD... Any ideas on how to get rid of this? Is this a DIY? :wrench: Should I take it in to my local indie mechanic - reliable chap though... The car is a 2000 S with 63.5K on the odo. Completed the 60K service at 57.5 though... :king: Could a possible leak off the radiator (I saw some fluid drip off the radiator on the driver's end - from the front - a while ago) trigger this p-code? :oops: Appreciate your valuable inputs (as always :)) Vish :drive:

It is a manual transmission. I'm going to look up the Bentley manual but was curious if anyone has seen this before... Thanks for your valuable time on this White987 :beer:

Hi All, Here it is... My first ever issue with my recently purchased 2000 Box S... Noticed an oil leak from the front part of the car (seems to be seeping thru the front bumper) in lil droplets. The car has 61K miles on it and completed its 60K mile service at 57.5K. I bought it right around that mileage and during the PPI, the mechanic did notice a oil filler tube leak, but he said it is nothing serious... Since we are talking a mid-engined car here, what could be causing a leak of oil (it is brown and viscous) from under the front bumper? Is this serious? Appreciate your inputs on this for a Porsche Novice.... :unsure: Mucho gracias, Vish :renntech:

Hi Topless, Thank you for the reply here. To give more detail on the actual ownership history, the car was bought in CA, moved in CO and came to AZ 2 yrs ago. The total number of owners (as per Carfax(Although it is kinda of weird when I looked up my current daily rider - it shows up as 4 owners - though I've had it from Day 1 in 2000. Must be the move between States that can cause to register as a new owner)) is 5 excluding me. The original/3rd owner drove it for 2 yrs and since then it has been changing hands. I was wary about the number of owners too (if Carfax is accurate on the exact count of the # of ppl who owned" this car) but was told by the Porsche Independant Mechanic (who did the PPI) that this is quite common on roadsters too. The sale was contingent on the PPI and the PPI was quite clean for the car. I was contemplating a used S2000 or a Boxster S with a budget of 25K so the Boxster S at 22.8K was a steal with 57.5K miles on it. Hence I went ahead with the Boxster S (which according to KBB, even with those high miles should be a PP sale for 27.5K). I also checked with the local dealer (Scottsdale Porsche) on any major issues/recalls on the this one via the VIN # - none at all. The extended warranty is from WarrantyDirect.com. I have seen some other members also use this. I was thinking of the 25K (or 2 yrs) warranty for 2.7K with a 100 deductible for the "Major Care" one. I'm going thru the fine print (did mention that they won't cover the clutch/assembly) now. Having read quite a few article on 98/99 Boxster engine blowouts etc, I was worried on this one especially given the fact that it is 6yrs old/ on the 6th hand now/ with nearing 60K (How ironic on the 6s ;))... But that 2.7K is a lil pricey for 25K though :cursing: Hence was wondering how many things could fundamentally go wrong with this - say I decide to only drive it for 2yrs. The mechanic said - 3.2L are better engines compared and atmost I may need a new clutch sometime in the next 20K miles as long as I do the regular PM work. V

Folks, I browsed thru a bunch of topics on this but I'm just trying to understand if 1) As part of the Pre-Purschase Inspection - things looked normal in the car 2) No major carfax issues 3) Rides fine today What things could I possibly be looking at fixing in the next 2 yrs (say if I plan to switch to a better P-car, after this time)? Also the 90s Boxsters had a number of engine rebuild requirements? Is this still the case into the 2000 - more so 2000? How do I find out if any major work has been done to this car - It was purchased from a private party who purchased it from a private part 9 months ago and who in turn bought it from a (non-Porsche) car dealer. Would the latter be a good starting point? From your experience of owning a 2000 model (say S too), should I seriously consider an extended warranty for 2-3yrs? Warranty Direct quotes me at 2700 for a 2yr on this car. If I do end up selling this in 2 yrs - is it really worth packing in 2.7K during this time in warranty, given this mileage? It just completed the 60K service along with front brakes/rotors replacement. Appreciate your thoughts on this, Vish

I'm researching on the Kumho SPTs and BF Goodrich g-Force Sport and will keep everyone posted on which one I'm going to hop one. The plan is to change all 4s from P-zeros (too pricey for me) to the ones above. I did realize that with the top on - I avg around 20ish - including my implusive - stepping on the gas, every so often (Ahem - read as almost - every time I get a chance :jump: ) On the insurance cost - I was actually surprised that I only pay around 150 a month (or 900 for 6 months) for both my cars - 2000 Mitsu GT and 2000 Porsche Boxster S with 500 for both collision/comprehensive. I used to pay 110 pm for the Mitsu alone before, so the Boxster didn't realize hike me up too much. After the 60k service, I'm hoping I don't have to pony up $$s for someone (**fingers crossed**). I had gotten my tire rotation at Pepboys (my Mitsu has tires from them) and the service guy (a friend) was like - What you bought a Porsche! Be prepared for some expensive labor work! Pepboys charges 83 bucks/hr and my Porsche mechanic does 90 bucks/hr (60k service + front brake pads/rotors replaced (with OEM) - ran me only 1200.) - hmmm! I plan to get my hands dirty with most of the DIY that I have seen here. Great work/inputs from all. Appreciate the comradery here... My Mitsu is a daily rider - although got a few offers to buy it from me. I've had the Mitsu since Day 1 and have a sentimental attachment to it. 133K miles and still driving strong (PM at due times helps too). Boxster is a childhood drool at car, now is resting quite comfortably in my garage. V

Folks, Thanks a lot for your inputs! Good ones - stumpjumper! I realized that I do shift into 6th much sooner (around 60ish in the freeway)...always thought top gear as soon as possible and not be revving up as much. I don't drive hard but it is not easy to stay from pushing the S around a bit...I bought the Porsche after driving an 2000 Eclipse GT for 6 years (still have this as a daily rider - although I haven't taken it out much since I bought the Porsche 2 weeks ago :drive: ) I do keep the top down all the time, which should explain why I'm down on the rate mileage too. Mickf - I apologize on my remark. I see too many ppl around that age group that drive 911s like they are buicks/oldsmobiles..I'm 28. :beer: My first Porsche and I simply don't sleep in my bed anymore.... Jim - I agree on the fun part. If I wanted just mileage - I would still be driving my Mitsu which avgs around 25-26 on a tank of 87-grade. The S is simply a blast and well worth the 40 bucks that I ooze into it, weekly!! Also folks, on the note about the Kumho SPT - It is no N3 P-zero (which is considered Porsche rated) but if I dont autocross or since I live in dry dry AZ, do I need the high end Pirelli or can I safely live with the Kumhos?

Folks, I recently joined this forum after becoming a proud owner of a used 2000 Boxster S with 57.5 miles on it. It had gone thru a few hands in the last 6 yrs and hence recently got the 60K service done. I do notice that between my 60% in-road and 40% freeway - I'm only getting an avg of 18 mpg on it. I don't drive crazily or like a 60yr old grandpa but I feel like that is pretty low mileage. Am I missing anything here? I read that 20mpg in city and 26 mpg in hwy is the sticker on this car. Why am I so low? Any inputs on what to look for here? It just came out of a 60K service and everything looks good, except for this squeal (more like a shrill) sound that seems to come from the front when the AC runs and the car is idling or <10mph. The sound is unpredictable but only when the AC runs. The mechanic said that I may need a new blower motor ($450) part but he said that it shouldn't hurt the car for now. Any ideas on this? Also looking for new rear tires. The car came with the P-zeros but I'm not an auto-crosser or a serious racer per se. So looking at the Kumho SPTs... are these good? Any recommendations on the above would be very much appreciated..... As much as I am beaming with pride, everything I look at my Artic Silver ride, these thoughts cross my mind and would like your expert opinions on the same. Many thanks in advance! Vish