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Thanks, JFP - I knew you would be the first one to respond! Appreciate your thoughts... Ya - kind of down that my daily of 12yrs is in this state...but such is life when it throws these unexpected bumps on the road! Let me see what comes out from the diagnosis of my Indy here..... Do any of these head repair shops exist in the Phoenix area? My Indy - Stuttgart Southwest, has worked on my car during entire ownership and it seems like they can address this cracked head too.
Hello Porsche mates, I came upon an intermix issue - coolant with oil, at least the coolant looks like chocolate shake (or coffee with a lot of cream). The usual symptoms before this discovery, 1) Temperature indicator lit up even though the operating temperature was around 180F. 2) Coolant was very low, so filled up with coolant/water but noticed this not so salubrious coolant - very liquid still not sludge like a few other have seen. 3) May have overfilled cos an overnight leak was found near the right rear wheel.... I had the car towed to my mechanic, the next day, but while he hasn't completed the diagnosis, he does suspect a cracked cylinder head. I am wondering about the oil cooler fault as seen in a few forum hits but not confirmed yet. Oil is clean - not coolant there... I may be looking at a $6K hit for this and on the wall towards fixing this, if confirmed as a cracked cylinder head. Reasons 1) 2000 Boxster S has almost 185K on the odo - though new clutch, water pump, 2 AOS, fuel pump, 2 MAF and convertible transmission motors, and a bunch of other regular fixes....it may be worth just as much, $6K , so not sure if it worth spending as much, only to find another $K++ issue lingering around. 2) Suspension groans once in a while... 3) Cat throws a P0430 once in a while.... 4) I've driven the car for 12yrs now so wonder if it is time for a change.... Appreciate your thoughts on 1) Is $6K a fair price for repairing a cracked head or should I shop around, if identified as the root cause? 2) Given the car's year and miles, is it worth fixing this issue? 3) What should be a reasonable price for this car as a roller, has the M030 package, and litronics but stock otherwise, if I decided to move onto something else? I realize #2 is pretty subjective - I've enjoyed this car for many fun years and hate to let it go but plunking $KK into an 18yr old car, doesn't seem wise, even if I would like to keep the car. Thank you for your time here. Cheers, Vish
Hi, It took a few tries - I was able to get rid of that groan/creak by lubbing thru this area on the strut tower, " I see that access is via the 3 screws under the frunk...but don't get a clear line of sight to the bearing area." This lubricant has worked well for me. https://www.oreillyauto.com/detail/b-laster-4556/chemicals---fluids-16461/grease---lube-16582/graphite-lubricant-17699/pro-grade-multi-purpose-lubricant/pb50/4608975 This was about 9K miles ago and no sign of that noise since then. Hope this helps. Merry Christmas! Thanks, Vish
Not at all a stupid question. I drove my Boxster for years, before I found a cupholder that worked for me. This does the job on my Boxster - especially on those 5hrs ++ drives. http://www.autozone.com/interior-organization-and-cargo-management/cup-holder-and-mugs/bell-wedge-cup-holder/363863_0_0/?counter=9 My buddy has the same one in his 911. Cheers!
Happy Thanksgiving, Folks! Appreciate your thoughts on this situation. I'd been noticing infrequent leaks - looks like oil but doesn't seem as thick or viscous, from the rear suspension area of the driver's side. I checked the oil levels on both the dash indicator (varies between at the MAX level to mid-way between MAX and MIN levels) and the dipstick which is higher than mid-way. I'm not so sure if this is really oil but is brownish and smells like a mixture of dirt and water. I peeked under the car and have attached photos of the leaky area and it's cleaner sibling on the opposite end on the passenger's side rear suspension. 1) What is this part that is leaking? Is that really oil? 2) Can this leak be plugged or should the part be replaced? 3) If it is the struts, time to swap the rears out too? I'm looking at the fronts soon, so wondering if it is time to replace all 4? Here is the leaky part - on the rear of the driver's side. Here is the clean part on the rear end of passenger's side Thank you for your valuable time here during the holidays. Cheers, Vish
Vish_ster changed their profile photo
Quick follow-up, my Boxster has the M030 suspension in it now. Does it make sense to upgrade the struts, and would the Bilstein B6 be a good idea? Mine is mostly a street car with lots of highway driving.and with rides around twisties whenever I can. Would I notice a difference in the ride quality with the B6s? Does these struts tend to lower the car too? or should I stay with the stock ones in the replacement?
Sounds good, JFP and Loren. Ball park - what should I expect to pay if I had to have this work done at an Indy shop? Strut mounts, struts for both axles, alignment and labor (@ $100/hr). I'm spending a bit of money on the car lately - miles and age being big factors, so trying to establish a baseline to what is in store for me w.r.t. maintenance cost, moving forward vs. smiles out of the car :)
Ah ha...Thanks again, JFP! Any way this can be lubbed like the control arm ball joint boot, or does it need a straight replacement? I see that that access is via the 3 screws under the frunk...but don't get a clear line of sight to the bearing area. If the bearing is weak, can the strut not be far away from needing a replacement? I did the bounce test on the strut and it returns back without any oscillation, when pressed down.
Vish_ster started following 2000 S - Hard Brake Pedal with diminished brake power and Front suspension groan/creak
Folks, I started noticing this intermittent creak/groan on the driver's side front suspension, every time I egress the car, after a spirited drive. I have had some creaking due to the lubrication loss in the ball joint area from the rear and have used the hole-in-the-rubber-boot to inject grease to keep the noise from recurring. I did the same for the front, just to be sure. This noise puzzles me. Based on my research, it may be the front strut mount bearing but didn't want to go about replacing parts without your opinions. It doesn't occur when the steering wheel is moved from corner to corner though or feel different during a drive. Shows up only when there is downward pressure on the foot area in the driver side, during egress or when pressure is applied on the car side fender over/near the strut area. Here is a video of the latter, for audio on two creak/groans between the spring movement. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OkRMza6B3ms Appreciate your insights on what this can be... My car is clocking nearly 173K ...so wondering if this can be a simple DIY or figure out the need to have a complete strut bearing and/or strut replacement. Thank you, V
To bring closure to this thread, following the last post, 1) Came up on a consistent P0153 so, I replaced the passenger side pre-cat O2 sensor. 2) Since the rattle was quite consistent from the "back of the car" from a driver's perspective, spent a ton of time researching on Catalytic Converter and complete exhaust options. I was even told that the rattle at low speeds may be due to broken heat shields - I couldn't find any, on the cats. I used stainless steel clamps to snug on the exhaust pipes coming out of the pre-cats. Car still had the rattliness... 3) Finally took it to a good mechanic friend who runs a non-Porsche indy shop and using a Stethoscope, with the car on the lift, started from under the car, around the exhausts systems, worked our way up to the components under the clamp shell and eventually to the behind the firewall, where the noise was more audible.... Turned out to be a weak Alternator pulley! Rattle, Clickey, or other ways to describe that sound - was driving me nuts for a long time.....almost a yr! Since the car was pushing 172K miles on the OE Alternator, swapped out the whole Alternator. The quietness of the motor at idle and at lights.....totally blissful! Thank you everyone, especially JFP, for the help and support here!
I see, JFP. Yes - been reading that droning effect pretty consistently on the forums from other Fabspeed customers too. The thing is - I like the notes off my Boxster S as it is now. I would love to get my hands on a used set of cats but those seem hard to come by. Not sure what the Magnaflows may do to that note or the power ..assuming they fit fine.
Ah sorry, Control C/V messed up again . - it is the maxflo performance exhaust system. http://www.fabspeed.com/986-boxster-maxflo-performance-exhaust-system/ :oops: Just scrolled up on your note, Ahsai! The CEL is due to a P0420 which was diagnosed to be that rattling secondary cat on the passenger side, which can have the magnaflows direct fit. The CEL lights up when I take the car to higher altitudes for the windy roads...runs fine otherwise around town, and passed emissions last yr - not due till 12/2017 too. It is the rattling during idle/rolling on higher gear that drives me nuts and so want to fix it! :cursing: My daily driver now is rolling past 167K and so was wondering if I put the $1.6K+labor and come up a new exhaust system or just drop in Magnaflows (both cats quoted at $500-$700 including labor) and then deal with the primary cats, when they fail. Forums suggested that if the primary cats fail, it is not possible to have Magnflows there due to the narrowness/curvature near the headers...is this accurate?