GForce83

awesome! Thanks for your help. I will replace the lock assembly.

Hey guys -

I'm running into a strange problem where when I turn my car off and take my key out, my electrical system stays on until I hear a mechanical click. I'm assuming this is from the lock assembly. Sometimes that click takes a few seconds, sometimes it's prolonged to a few minutes. I've replaced the ignition switch before and it seems to have worked for a few weeks, but then the problem returns. Does this mean it's the lock assembly?

I have no problems starting my car or pulling the key out, only when I try to turn off the car. 

Also, not sure if this piece of information is important, but when I take the key out, I can't put the key back in until I hear the click. 

Thanks for your help!

Hey guys - I'm having a (seemingly strange) problem with my car. Searched the forums, but I'm not even sure how to search for this issue:

Basically, when I remove the key from the car, the electrical system stays on for a full minute sometimes (radio, lights, etc). Normally, I know it'll stay on for a few seconds when you remove the key, but the longer I wait to fix this issue, the longer the electrical system stays on after key removal. Any ideas? Is this linked to a faulty ignition switch? Appreciate all the help. Thanks.

I originally removed the bumper and cleaned the radiators, but was still noticing the problem.

I found out it was some crap stuck between the radiator and the condenser nothing else. I took it to the dealer and they cleaned it out for me. Thanks to everyone for helping me out.

Hey GForce,

I too live in Texas (Fort Worth). My car was experiencing increasing temperatures recently (just as the weather is getting warm). Usually it rides at the bottom edge of the 0 on 180. When I stop at a traffic light for a couple of minutes it would rise into the far side of the 0 on 180. This is after I had cleaned the radiators. I got a lot of junk out of them but most concerning was the tar that had built up inside the fins. I assume this came from road construction on highways were I live. Temperature was still increasing more than I had expected. So I looked at the radiator fans. One of them was not working. I swapped out ballasts for the fans and this indicated the ballasts were okay. I had to replace fuses several times. I came to the conclusion that my resistor (located under the nose of the car below the radiator) was out. I replaced this ($90 from Park Place Porsche). I could tell my old one was burnt out by doing electrical check. I started the car and noticed a burning smell. Shut the car off and looked under where the resistor was. It was smoking. I reached up to check the fan was free (car off) and burnt a hole in my hand on the resistor. When that cooled I reached under the car to spin the fan blades. Drivers side hard to turn, passenger side spins freely. So it was the fan all along. Ran out of time to do the work myself (this is my daily driver) so I took it to Autobahn Porsche. I think it was around $500 to replace.

So my take on it is this: when car is cool reach underneath and spin the fans on both sides just to make sure they spin freely, second clean the radiators (only takes about 2 hours unless you have to spend 3 hours cleaning out every little fin). That is the easy work. Also check the fuses and ballasts (this is if you find your fans are not working). As Loren points out when the temperature of the car is up at operating temps and the A/C is on then the fans should spin at high speed (can hear a definite loud whir sound and placing hands down by intake can feel sucking air).

This is exactly what I'm looking for. Thanks so much for the info. I'll let you know what I find out.

Hey guys -

quick question for you. I have a '00 996 cab with 44k miles. When I drive on the highway, engine temperature runs completely normal at 180. But when I slow down in traffic, is slowly eases up to 190 and then when I drive again, it slowly goes down to 180.

It doesn't sound like a waterpump issue. Does it sound like i need to clean my radiators?... i hope it's nothing too major. I just noticed this a few months ago. I changed the coolant and it hasn't helped. I live in TX and the temp is already upto 90 degrees. Let me know what you guys think... Thanks!

Loren - that was amazing. i would give up my first born child to have your knowledge of porsches.

All i did was unconnect, blow on the connectors a couple times, connect, and it worked.

Thanks so much.

So I was driving in heavy heavy rain on the highway when I pulled over to get some gas. When i got back on the highway and hit 75, my spoiler would no longer go up and the dash spoiler light came on. I stopped and tried to operate the spoiler manually with the switch in the footwell and the light came on again and it still wouldn't work.

Does anyone have any ideas what happened? I hope the water didn't short any circuits.

Thanks for your help.

Do you guys know the causes of high oil pressure?

My oil pressure gauge reads 5.5 bars under normal driving conditions (2-3k rpm). Is this something to be worried about? I've called a few mechanics and they told me I should bring my car in, but I just wanted to double check if this is normal. I'm running 15-50 oil in Texas.

Thanks for all your help.

Bad relief valve or bad sending unit are common causes. Do not assume that your gauge is accurate. What is your warm idle pressure?

Idle is about 4.5. What does the relief valve look like? I have a feeling mine's leaking oil.

Actually, I just spoke to a guy from PCA and they told me that the dealerships are running 0w40 now for these cars, so i guess being in hot Texas and running 15w50 is going to bring the oil pressure up a little bit. My manual said 15w50. That's probably the problem. I'll let you guys know if it's anything else. Thanks a lot for your help.

Do you guys know the causes of high oil pressure?

My oil pressure gauge reads 5.5 bars under normal driving conditions (2-3k rpm). Is this something to be worried about? I've called a few mechanics and they told me I should bring my car in, but I just wanted to double check if this is normal. I'm running 15-50 oil in Texas.

Thanks for all your help.

Bad relief valve or bad sending unit are common causes. Do not assume that your gauge is accurate. What is your warm idle pressure?

Idle is about 4.5. What does the relief valve look like? I have a feeling mine's leaking oil.

Do you guys know the causes of high oil pressure?

My oil pressure gauge reads 5.5 bars under normal driving conditions (2-3k rpm). Is this something to be worried about? I've called a few mechanics and they told me I should bring my car in, but I just wanted to double check if this is normal. I'm running 15-50 oil in Texas.

Thanks for all your help.

I recently noticed the increased oil pressue on my gauge (4.5 bars at idle and 5.5 bars under normal driving conditions) as well as a small leak on the left hand side of my engine (looking up underneath the car) coming from some type of oil line, and I can't help but think the two are related. I don't know these cars too well but I think there may be a clog somewhere. I was told it could be the oil bypass valve?? (Never heard of it)

Does anyone have a labeled diagram of the the rear underbody of the car?

There is oil residue in the circled region and it is leaking from a line right under the airbox where the arrow is pointing.

http://img101.imageshack.us/my.php?image=engine2fe0.jpg

Thanks.

Hey guys,

There is some severe squeaking from my rear brakes. No brake sensors have gone off and it seems like I have enough brake left to not need new ones.

Is there a quick fix for something like this. I scanned the forums, but could not come up with anything i could use.

Thanks.

Hey, just to let you know you are not alone on this I just posted yesterday on this exact same thing in my 99 C2. As a matter of fact I have a couple of responses you might want to look down the page at please help 6 spd problem. JR

Do either of you have the short shifter fitted to your cars ?

Nope, I don't have a short shifter. My car is completely stock.

Hey guys,

I recently purchased an '00 C2 Cab with 35k miles on it. For some reason, when the car is cold, it's really hard to shift into second gear. The problem doesn't happen all the time - just sometimes.

I flushed my tranny fluid and it helped a little bit, but it just feels like there's a notch when I'm shifting to second. It's definitely not as smooth as when I shift into 4th or anything. Anyone have any ideas? Thanks.

Anyone have any idea what this could be? My steering wheel vibrates quite a bit after I hit 80 mph. I don't have matching tires - (Backs are pirelli's, fronts are OEM) would that affect it? Car is '00 Cabrio with 35k miles. Thanks.