mrmickeymouse

hello,

first off, thanks for the link to the pdf's. but, i do have a question...

this might seem like a stupid one...(because the answer is most likely in front of me).. is there a pdf, list or printed book that has the list prices of the parts listed for the parts in either the pet catalogs or the tequipment catalogs? i'm kinda tired getting pricing that's all over the place from the various dealers/sources. i know sunset offer's cost + 15%, but i still would like to have a printed price sheet of list prices...

thank you in advance, and have a great new year...

eric

Not a book per se.. but as a Contributing Member here you can use the Retail Price Search feature here (on the Online Docs Menu) to look look up current MSRP for any part number.

loren,

i'm sure you hear this all the time, but, thank you very much for your help and all of the effort you put into running this board. take care, and have a great week.

eric

I have a CD which covers fairly recent prices . :P . [covers 996]

Scott

It is not one unit, they separate, if you look at the corner piece you will see some very small [what I call] shelf's which retains the corner piece.

IMO - A clear corner piece on amber stock lights looks weird. You can try a light coat of window tint which looks okay ....

Scott

I told you you would end up going to the 00 MAF, there is a problem with some Boxster's and the 01 MAF without a patch being done.

BTW - the reason you were running better with the wrong MAF, was due to the mixture probably giving the Boxster a more rich condition - thereby giving you more "pep".

Due to our ECU Mapping, Porsche intentionally leans out our vehicles to meet federal smog standards.

Porscheneer - did you get my e-mail about your hood latch.

Scott

Having your CEL light go out and then coming back on is only indicative of a problem. The only resolution is to have your code read and then to figure a viable resolution.

Report back, I have bought a very good investment; the OBDII manual which will prove to be invaluable. My suggestion is to buy a copy for yourself and then be free to diagnose your own problems. The answers [many] are within it's borders.

If you don't have a TIP don't bother with I. If you have a TIP I have friend with many...

Scott

Maybe a ball joint going bad, tough to do over the net.

I would lift the front end off the floor and start the car and then move the wheel from side to side to figure it out, The problem with this method is unless there is a load on the vehicle you may not get the result your looking for, then load [lower] the vehicle and see if you can get it to do the same thing.

If it is a P/S pump going bad you may have a screeching sound as the pump locks up and the belt cycles over it.

One more thing, maybe drive in a empty parking lot until it happens then stop and check it out.

Good Luck,

Scott

CV joints can sound similar to a bearing going out, due to them both being on the same shaft. The shaft telegraphs the sound. I believe you being such a good detective probably resolved your issue.

Once your CV joint/boot grease is gone you then have a metal on metal sound.

Scott

Well I just got it checked it seems that the MAF is getting a low voltage signal and that is what is setting off the light. So I think that the MAF is going bad and I am going to get a new one :(.

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You sure the code states [via OBDII] that your MAF is going bad. Off the top my head P101 is a bad MAF.

Even then you need to check voltage before that assumption is made.

Tool 9616 to pin it out.

Scott

Drive a car with it before you do it.

Scott

What does it mean when all the sports suspension kits come with firmer suspension - in particular the shorter/stiffer springs and firmer dampers?

Does damper mean shock absorber? Affect of the absorber to the vehicle.

If a shock absorber is firmer, does it mean it doesn't absorb shock as well as a softer one? The absorber is meant to handle the shock differently - it will telegraph the road to you. [otherwords you will feel more bumps] It does not soften your ride as much.

So if I hit a bump, instead of the wheels move up and the car body stay level, the whole car moves up and jumps to air, this is meant to be good for roadholding/handling?  No... that is a total race suspension, which would not work well for you [believe me I tried]. It will beat you on  uneven roads or bumps. "Yes" to the handling, you will handle the best with a firm suspension, but will your wife or signifcant other survive.

Alternatively, what happens when I hit a ditch? Stiffer spring would push the wheels down faster and therefore allow better roadholding? The stiffer spring tries not to allow wasted energy to the car. It attempts to provide a stiffer ride which applies more down force during the compression of the spring. [it would be like you bending your knee and jumping compared to stiffening your legging and jumping.] The time you waste as you try to straighten compared to being straight all the time. How would that feel on your body though...  Is that it?

Or is it all about cornering? Stiffer everything so the car doesn't roll sideways? I have found sideways roll to be a good indication of how far the car is being pushed, with the roll eliminated, doesn't it mean that there will no longer be an indication between flat cornering and when the car starts to loose grip when cornering hard so the car becomes unpredicatable? True less give makes it wonderful under controlled conditions, but when you hit that overload of compression goodbye. :drive:

There again I may be all wrong  :eek: this is the all boating forum - right

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Scott

P1123 Oxygen Sensing Adaptation Area 1 (Cylinders 1 - 3) - Lean Threshold.

I would not assume this is an injector problem [there are specific injector codes.]

Is it smoking excessively.

Scott

If you had a leaking injector you would almost pop a CEL.

Scott

It is better to see run your cap by a either a smog place to check it or find an aftermarket - it may be cheaper.

Yes, the new caps have teethers but, I am not aware of the cap being the problem. Maybe TP knows if it was an esthetic change or a leakage change.

I have not read any problems with caps in any other posts. I think it was a I want to be like the jonese's move.

The TSB I told you about is probably closer to your problem.

Scott

It also could be your serpentine belt, I don't know the age of your vehicle or your maintenance schedule.

It's worth checking, if you don't find it low - you will look for cracks and degradation.

Scott

Must be Pentosin but if it's low don't refill, find out why it's low.

Scott

Lets use the K.I.S.S. have you checked your PS level.

Scott

Yes, I made a mod which basically slotted the engine cover, and then carpeted over it with another smaller slot.

If you turn your engine cover over, you will see impressed lines which run longitudinally, if you cut those out and make a hole to whatever size you would like, You can rivet a plexiglass piece in it's place. You then cut your carpet a little shorter on the sides to hide the rivet's and the edge.

You will then have a viewing port, and it will look nice and tidy due to the carpet hiding the edges of plexiglas.

Sorry I don't have any pic's right now of it. It looks much better then the $1000.00 deal and it's also quieter.

Scott

It depends how clean and careful you want to be, I cleaned my motor with a brush and warm tsp.

I ended up with this as an end product. I have to do more, but have other things pending.

Did they install the switch to turn it on and off.

Scott

There really is nothing to align, you may [weird circumstance] have one piston weaker then the others, it would then apply a offset pressure.

What I have mentioned almost never happens.

Back to brake alignment:

The pads are given equal pressure on both sides [4 piston caliper] both pads have a backing plate which is given equal pressure to the pad.

There really is nothing beyond applying an anti squeak compound or anti squeak/ vibration dampers to fix it.

I have had so so luck with doing it after the fact of applying the new pads and then getting a squeak. I have had terrific luck with anti squeak compounds [High temp silicone] on already bedded brakes.

Even know Porsche say's it is a No No...

Scott

Have you tried a little WD-40, I fixed a problem with mine with a few squirts of oil in the igntion switch key hole; use the red tip.

Scott

Do you see anything on the floor [overnite], or do you have any burning oil smells coming from your car.

If you are not dripping any significant amount, you may not worry to much until it gets bad. Some smalls leaks never get bad.

Scott

If your brakes are squealing, I have the easiest fix for you, a garden hose or power spray.

The majority of squealing is caused by a build up of brake dust and a simple cleaning [power water] on your brake calipers will provide cheap relief.

Upon doing it you will see a stream of black dust trickling away. After that you will either have a quieter brake system or a cleaner brake system which to inspect the brakes.

Try this and it may fix it. Carb cleaner will also do it, but water is better and cheaper, and much more plentiful.

Scott

You spent that much money on a socket and ratchet to take out spark plugs.

Did you torque your sparkplugs, if so be careful doing that, it is not an exact science. The crush ring is something you need to feel and not torque. You have no idea how stable your threads are, so torquing your sparkplugs could cost you!!!

I am sorry but for $15.00 you could do the same thing, the only helper I have seen [bought] are the T handled allen wrenches [harbor freight.] also maybe a couple 3/8 allen sockets.

The extension either flexible or wobble would also help, but you can make do without it.

Scott

Engine compartment ?

Scott