John D II

This I why you don't ever cancel (suspend) all your insurance when your car is in winter hibernation. A great way to save some money. But, you always keep the Comp coverage for things like this, and it's cheap. Great advice - I never thought of that....I do not remove my insurance during the winter, as I run the car for a few miles once a month on a clear day to keep things moving or for testing, but I know many do remove the insurance during the winter.

Wow, what a pain these things are...

Thanks so much for letting me know that in the event I did not - I did call my insurance and they are paying for the repair...

Thanks for your help everyone! It ended up being that a mouse was eating the wiring, which lead to the failure of power to reach the starter! That explains everything...

Thanks, JP - just the picture I was looking for! From most of the advice I have received, a rapidly clicking starter is not the starter clicking, but rather the solenoid and it usually indicates it is not receiving enough electricity to fully engage, often from a loose or corroded connection. I have decided to take the car in for testing and see what we find... Now I know what to look for, should the ground strap require replacement.

White, I had one, broke it by accident and am buying another one and I realize that, but that is not the issue here...I have a fully charged battery and the starter just clicks...it is either not getting enough power or it's bad. Looking for advice as to what others may have found causing such a problem...

Thanks guys! JP, Does the ground strap have a bolt securing it on both ends? If so, how difficult is the engine side to access? I can see where the outside end mounts on the frame from some pictures I took with the engine out..looks easy to inspect that end.

I store my car for the winter. I went out to start it to briefly drive it yesterday and it would not start, just click, click, click from the starter (I drove over my trickle charger by accident last spring and never replaced it, figured I would just start it every few weeks this winter). I put jumper cables on it for 30 minutes and still no start, just clicking. I then brought the battery in to be tested and it tested "Good, but needs charge", so I bench charged it all night. Put it in this morning and same thing, just rapid clicking. Brought it in for testing and they said "830 cranking amps fully charged". They then did a cell test and said something may be wrong gave me a new battery at NC - it was less than one year old. Cleaned all terminals (which were very clean anyhow), installed the new battery and same thing, mclick, click, click - now with a brand new battery. Starter clicks rapidly, but no start. That leaves me thinking:1) Longshot - the new battery is also bad2) The starter connection is bad3) There is a ground problem somewhere on the vehicle4) The starter itself is bad 5) engine ground strap has failedToward the end of the driving season, the battery was not starting the car after just 2-3 days, which was not normal, but it was the colder season. Also, the last week or so I was operating the car, occasionally, after coming out of a store, even afer a long drive, it would crank slowly for just a split second before going good and starting and I was thinking "what is that - I just drove 50 miles, the car should have plenty of power", but since it ultimately started, I did not give it a lot of thought. I think perhaps something has been developing for a little while and just got worse...Any ideas of things to do/check before I have it carried somewhere for diagnosis? Any pictures or diagrams of the engine ground strap location?Any thought would be appreciated. John

Ben, I just removed my OEM hydraulic equipped decklid/wing and installed the aerokit rear deck lid. At first, I taped the two electical connectors that mount to the hydraulic system tightly and on my first drive, I received a spoiler warning light. I was told to simply run the harness with the connectors "not depressed" or "loose" (they are spring loaded and make contact when installed or squeezed hard). So, I left them loose, put a small plastic bag around them to seal dirt and moisture out, tucked them under the plastic cover out of sight and went for another drive. No more light. I have now driven for a month with no light. That's all you have to do - no need to purchase a new harness...

OK - Thanks again, Loren - I appreciate the prompt response!

Thanks, Loren Before I do it.......to make sure I don't break anything. Just pull hard - no screws - correct?

I have searched the forum and found the antenna mod, which involves removing the A pillar, but I am still a little uncertain as to how to proceed with removal of the drivers side A pillar. Could someone answer the following questions: Do you have to remove the visor or not? Do you just pull on the A pillar until it comes off? Thanks in advance...