greerj1

The above is for a C2, turbo will have the forward drive shaft to contend with, but less tranny bolts.

I did it in my driveway with the car 4 feet in the air on cribbing it took nearly as long to get the car up and back down as it did to do the job. here is what I learned.

Make sure the car is high enough to get the transmission out whilst on the tranny jack.

1. Remove under panels.

2. Remove axle shaft bolts from transmission. Tie out of the way with wire. I left the bolts in place.

3. Support engine/transmission with a floor jack, remove the forward transmission support bracket.

4. Install engine support bracket. Adjust so the engine, transmission is leaning downward. This will allow better access to the transmission bolts at the top of the bell housing.

you will need 2 ft of 1/2 in extension with a universal joint to reach them. Keep track of the location of the bolts, they are different lengths. There is also 1 torx bolt or (full square?), be careful not to strip it.

5. Remove clutch cylinder, One bolt is blind, be patient it will come out. Drop the cylinder assy and tie out of the way. There is several inches of rubber hose. Inspect for leaks, cracks etc.

6. With the two tranny bolts at 3 and 9 o,clock loosened but not removed, install the tranny jack to take the load.

7. Remove the shifter cables from the levers on the transmission. They snap on and off. Apply some grease during reassembly.

8. Remove the two remaining bolts and gently!!!! rock the transmission loose while pulling it forward. Take note of the coolant hoses and be careful not to pinch them. If the floor is level and the

tranny is leaning downward, you will have to adjust the jack height as the tranny comes out.

9. Replace fuel filter at this time. It will never be easier.

10. Inspect the transmission mounting bushing at the front end, if cracked, replace (mine was, $80.00 from Pelican)

11. Remove pressure plate and clutch assy. Discard bolts use new ones when reassembling.

12. I would remove the flywheel to have a look at the RMS and IMS, If either is leaking, now would be the time to address. I did the IMS bearing upgrade from LN Engineering at the same time.

The bearing upgrade is another level of invasion requiring locking cam shafts, replacing oil plugs etc.

It took about 4 hours to remove, not counting the 2 plus hours I needed to remove the stripped torx bolt (be careful here). I could have it out in 2 hours the next time. literally 32+/- bolts and its out.

check here for a pictorial www.c-speedracing.com/howto/996rms/rms1.php

Good luck and don't be scared.

James Greerengine_bracket.pdf

WWW.KBB.COM has it listed in the low 50's. The cars ultimate value is only what someone is willing to pay at any given time and the haste at which the sale needs to be made. Offer 40 and see what happens. The interior color will take some getting used to.

James Greer

I have just replaced my oil filler tube because it was cracked. I do not think there is any other way for oil to get on the top of these engines except for the filling process.

James Greer

While the engine was running, did you notice if the voltage meter was at 13.7 v or below 12v? If it was at 13.7 v, the alternator is putting out the correct voltage, if below, the battery is discharging and supplying all the energy for the car to run. It sounds like the alternator has expired, or the belt has come off/broke.

James Greer

The rattle is the lifters before they fill up with oil. Fairly normal with a higher mileage flat six.

Jim Greer

I have searched for a IMS seal diy and have not found one. I am particularly interested in the tightening of the bearing stud/nut. Tranny is out getting a new mounting bushing installed. RMS is dry.

Thanks in advance;

Jim Greer

Anyone do a tranny mount R&R on a 996/997 manual transmission, How do you remove it from transmission casting? Can you do it in place?

Thanks;

James Greer

I was returning from a weekend on Sunny Cape Cod when a guy in a VW pickup (really) pulls up beside me. It sounded like it had a blower on it. I am doing 75 or so, he pulls up and nails it hard and takes off. He slows down and lets me catch up when he does it again, a loud bang, clouds of white smoke start billowing from the underside and exhaust of the truck. He pulls over and I just drove on. It is funny how these kids and young adults all want to take on the P-car. I don't generally take on anyone, especially a newer vette or mustang because of the obvious power advantage they have on the open highway, but if the conditions are right and traffic very light, it is fun going by at 135.

How was this head repaired? Was the cracked area machined out and back-filled with weld and then re-machined? Was the repaired head anodized or coated in some manner? The color appears to be off. Did anyone try to seal off the water jacket and pressurize the head to confirm the leak? My indie had a 1999 boxter in the shop for the intermix problem, he had not fully diagnosed the leak at that time.

Good luck

James Greer

Autozone will lend you one with a small deposit that is refundable upon the return of the item. I centered the clutch disc and pressure plate on the flywheel by eye and feel and had no problems getting the tranny to line up.

James Greer

http://www.c-speedracing.com/howto/996rms/rms3.php

Go here. This one is very well documented.

Good luck

James Greer

If you put in a shorter final drive, you will increase your rate of acceleration but decrease your top speed. In the Excellence Porsche mag there are ads from many tranny builders throughout the country.

I have yet to have my car over 140 mph. How often are you near the red line in sixth gear?. To calculate top speed, (engine rpm) /(final drive ratio) x (circumference of rear tire).

For the 08 911 final drive ratio is 3.44:1 so calculated top speed would be: Assuming red line at 7000 and 265 40 18 tire. Top, 6th gear has a ratio = 0.8:1 so the final drive gear is 4.3:1

= (7000 rev/min)/(3.44 engine revs/tire rev)X(82.74inch circ/12 in/ft)

= (14,030.5 ft/min)x(60 min/hr)/(5,280 ft/mile)

= 159.5 mph

If you would go to a final drive gear of (4.55:1) x (0.8) = final drive of 3.64:1your top speed would be;

= (7000 rev/min)/(3.64 engine revs/tire rev)X(82.74inch circ/12 in/ft)

= (13,259.6 ft/min)x(60 min/hr)/(5,280 ft/mile)

= 150.7 mph

If you were to shorten the final drive gear, first gear would be almost useless, I would look into shortening maybe 4th, and definitely 5th, and 6th gears. If you look at your owners manual, there is a chart of the gear ratios and speeds associated with them. You will notice that the curves on the graph are longer as you shift towards 6th gear. This is analogous to the time spent in that gear while accelerating, Shorten the gear, shorten the time to accelerate through it.

Jim Greer

My manual says to keep the revs below 3K until warmed up. 01 C2 coupe

James Greer

Andy:

What does the mating gear look like? It looks like a manufacturing defect seeing how the porous area appears to be below the profile of the gear tooth. How much was the new shaft?

Jim Greer

I got 12000 out of my rear nexens, they are not good at the track as they age. The fronts are going fine. Will us Pzero rossa's for the track, much more traction. Presently approaching 93000 with only clutch, RMS, IMS and brakes. Can't wait for the snow to go away.

Jim Greer

http://www.c-speedracing.com/howto/996rms/rms3.php

Go here. This one is very well documented.

Good luck

James Greer

Those are the same wheels I have on my 01 996 C2. The only issue is the rear tires do not fully fill out the wheels. I replaced the 265's with 275's and they look a lot better. Make sure the offsets are the same.

James Greer

Where/how do you restrain a stock 2001 996 C2 for the dyno?

Thanks:

James Greer

The car is the least of your problems. Acing your finals will have a far greater impact on your life than the alternator. Study hard.

Good luck with school.

Jim Greer

Lugging the engine is generally less than 2000 rpm. When you are trying to accelerate, you will feel sluggishness and a lack of response. Shifting at 3,000-3,500 rpm is fine for Sunday morning drives to church. But on the way home, 6,000 - 6,500 is better for the soul.

James Greer

I am going to replace the rotors soon and would like to know if the preferred are the OEM or some after market. If after market, which ones? I will do 3-5 track days a year.

Thanks:

James Greer

I got mine at the local dealer. It is available in silver and black.

James Greer

2001 996 C2 3.4

I am running 18"x 8" and 18" x 10" for the street, looking for a set of track wheels, Are 17" wheels better for the track than 18" wheels? Why? What size is recomended for the front to compensate for the understeer?

Any help here would be great.

Thanks:

James

You will need to know the offset and width of these wheels. If they are off a TT (widebody), They will not fit a 996 C2 coupe

Front;

Offset: 50mm

Backspacing: 6.46" Bolt Pattern: 5-130

Rec. Tire Size: 225/40-18

rear;

Offset: 65mm

Backspacing: 8.10" Bolt Pattern: 5-130

Rec. Tire Size: 265/35-18

This is what is on my car.

J. Greer