Jump to content

Welcome to RennTech.org Community, Guest

There are many great features available to you once you register at RennTech.org
You are free to view posts here, but you must log in to reply to existing posts, or to start your own new topic. Like most online communities, there are costs involved to maintain a site like this - so we encourage our members to donate. All donations go to the costs operating and maintaining this site. We prefer that guests take part in our community and we offer a lot in return to those willing to join our corner of the Porsche world. This site is 99 percent member supported (less than 1 percent comes from advertising) - so please consider an annual donation to keep this site running.

Here are some of the features available - once you register at RennTech.org

  • View Classified Ads
  • DIY Tutorials
  • Porsche TSB Listings (limited)
  • VIN Decoder
  • Special Offers
  • OBD II P-Codes
  • Paint Codes
  • Registry
  • Videos System
  • View Reviews
  • and get rid of this welcome message

It takes just a few minutes to register, and it's FREE

Contributing Members also get these additional benefits:
(you become a Contributing Member by donating money to the operation of this site)

  • No ads - advertisements are removed
  • Access the Contributors Only Forum
  • Contributing Members Only Downloads
  • Send attachments with PMs
  • All image/file storage limits are substantially increased for all Contributing Members
  • Option Codes Lookup
  • VIN Option Lookups (limited)

greerj1

Contributing Members
 View Profile  See their activity

  • Posts

    92

  • Joined

  • Last visited

 Content Type 

Everything posted by greerj1

  1. greerj1
    This was an easy job. This took an hour to complete and that included a trip to Autozone to get the special O2 Sensor wrench. The dealer wanted $900+ to do and they quoted 3 hrs to complete. It was tight and getting things to line up blind was a bit of a challenge. Any way after a quick 10 mile run with no CEL, I stopped at the Ferrari store where there are 2 F40's, 1 F50 ($1 mil) and an Enzo ($2 mil), there were of course, lesser 599's F430's and the like.
  2. greerj1
    I am looking for a procedure for replacing the after cat O2 sensors. Anyone out there have such a thing? Any help would be great before I go in blind. Thanks: James Greer, Boston MA
  3. greerj1
    looks like #1 will lower the engine and rotate about the trans bushing.Make sure the engine is supported if you have to take the nuts off. Watch for excess movement in the axles. Do not over stress the trans bushing either. Other than that, an easy DIY. Jim Greer
  4. greerj1
    Loren; Thanks for the response. Will hunt one done.
  5. greerj1
    Scanned the car with a durametric this weekend and got the following codes from the alarm tab 61 central locking limit; not reached, not present 33 internal sensor fault, not present 21 W lead (DME immobilizer not present) 49 K lead not present 60 central locking limit position (lock not reached, not present) 26 ignition circuit, passenger. I was unable to clear these codes. Anyone ever have them? 2001 996 C2 Any help here would be appreciated. Thanks: Jim Greer
  6. greerj1

    Who are you?

  7. greerj1
    You can pull the sensor out of the brake pad and cut and tape the to leads together and short the circuit that way. This means you will have to visually inspect the brakes from time to time.
  8. greerj1
    You will need to get the bottom (undercarriage) of the car at least 2 ft off the ground. This is required to get the tranny down and out from under the car. I was up 30 inches to clear the tranny whilst it was on the tranny jack. I used 4 x 4 timbers 20 in long. Placed 2 in parallel, then 2 more on top at 90 deg and so on until the car was high enough. I toe nailed the timbers for stability. See attached .PDF. Each setup will support thousands of pounds and infinitely more stable than jack stands at the required height. Down side, took about an hour to get the car that high. Started at the front, raised the car, slid the 2 x 10 with the chocks under the wheels first, then the rear, put 2 x 10 and 1 level of timbers, back to the front, added 2 levels until completed. Has to be on a level surface. With the car that high, you can sit up underneath and work comfortably. You will also need a support for the engine, porsche sells a bar that bolts onto the drop link mounting points. I used a piece of unistrut and a couple of aluminum bars, worked fine. Good luck James Greer GUNNAGE.pdf
  9. greerj1
    What are you expecting 125 hp from 2.0 litre. It is not a strong car to begin with. Check timing, spark plugs/wires, rotor/distributor/coil and points and condenser if so equipped. Fuel pressure filters. Vacuum leaks. Air filter, MAF. I have an 87 924S @ 147 hp and 2.5 litre, and after driving the 911, that car feels like a tank. Hell, after driving the 2007 Taurus, that car still feels like a tank. Good Luck James Greer
  10. greerj1
    I noticed the oil pressure going from 5 bars to 2 bars at the Glen last week going around long sweeping high speed turns. This was with street tires with a 220 tread wear compound. Would like to go with a stickier tire but the oiling system will not keep up in it's present form. Porsche does not recommend stickier tires for the same reason. James Greer
  11. greerj1
    Anyone have the accusump kit installed in a 996? Where is the reservoir located, how is it working for you? Did you use the LN Engineering kit with the small filter? Thanks in advance. James Greer
  12. greerj1
    Hay kids: This track rocks, can't wait to go back. Had a total blast, enjoy the clip. Ciao
  13. greerj1
    Sounds like a throw out bearing. Has the clutch been changed lately, or at all? Is the force required to press on the clutch pedal changed? Good luck with the search. James Greer
  14. greerj1
    I had the same issue. It was the ballast resistor on the drivers side. I replaced them both. It will take about 2-3 hours. Clean out the radiators whilst you are in there. James Greer
  15. greerj1
    I have a 2001 with 95,400 miles, replaced the IMS bearing before it totally gave way. I recommend that the bearing be inspected, but you have to remove the tranny to do it, and if doable, a warranty. James Greer
  16. greerj1
    GT3 all the way. Drive a Turbo, then the GT3. You will understand. My next one will be a GT3. I did drive the GT3 RS Last fall, It was an incredible ride, it whaled the snot out of my buddies 996 turbo. But, if you prefer a more luxurious ride go with the turbo. NA all the way. IMHO James Greer
  17. greerj1
    Look here www.clarks-garage.com. This is a most comprehensive website and should have what your looking. James Greer
  18. greerj1
    Gentlemen: I had noticed a vibration at 3,000 rpm last fall om my 01 996 w/94,000 miles. It had came out of the blue. I thought it could be the tranny mount which was cracked. I removed the tranny, clutch and flywheel to have a look at the IMS bearing and seal. I removed the IMS support and noted a large amount of axial and radial play in the bearing. Axially (in and out along the center line) there was at least 3/16 of an inch of play and radially there was about 1/16. Both bearing seals were in place, when I tore down the bearing, the balls were severely pitted and the races worn. This was about to fail and would have been catastrophic to say the least. I had my indie put in the bearing upgrade in and it has only been about 500 miles since, the vibration is gone. So the car is back up on blocks now, but for the RoW M030 suspension upgrade and brake job. It just keeps getting better. In closing, at least have a look at the bearing. I got lucky with some symptoms, alot of people do not. James Greer
  19. greerj1
    Preferred brake pads? Mintex, Akebono, Textar, Porsche oem Need to replace pads and want to stay with street pads with 2-4 track days a year. Any feedback, recommendations for above brands? Thanks; James Greer
  20. greerj1
    I assume you are referring to the radiator fan. Does the fan work with the AC on? If so, it is the ballast resistor that needs replacing not the fan itself. It is kind of a PIA job to replace the resistor but I did it in my driveway. There is some instructions here somewhere that outlines the process. Good luck; James Greer
  21. greerj1
    I used cribbing,(blocks of wood and a 12 in wide plank at the top) to get my car high enough to remove the transmission. The wheels were on the top plank, about 2 ft off the ground. It took a while to get it up and down but the car was level and the suspension was equally loaded on all corners. If you use a ramp, you will get the cosine effect where the rear wheels will be supporting it's normal load plus the normal weight of the front end x the cosine of the angle the car is at. The Boxster wheel base is 2415 mm. If the front end is 250 mm in the air the cosine of the resultant angle will be .11. The weight of the car is (1356 kg) since the Boxster weight distribution is nearly 50:50 this holds true. The load on the front suspension of the car will be (1354 kg/2)= 677 kg, and 677 kg on the rear. At the cosine of .11 the front will have a load of (677 kg)-(677kg x .11) = 602.5 kg. The rear will have (677 kg)+(677 kg x .11) =751.47 kg ; 751.47+ 602.5=1354 kg. This is a difference of 75 kg from flat and level loading of the car. Also, fill up the petrol. You are not out of your depth. These cars are very easy to work on. If you use the ramps, Get the rear end level with the front and all will be well. James Greer
  22. greerj1
    Were you able to source the bushings separately from the wishbone, control arms etc? Thanks: James Greer
  23. greerj1
    924S @ 42 and 996 at 45
  24. greerj1
    What year car? I did mine last fall on a 2001 996 3.4. The job entailed removing the tranny etc and also locking the cams at TDC. I did not replace the clutch as it was a year and 2,00 miles old, I did the LNE upgrade. Parts $650 for the kit, $85 for the tranny bushing and labor totaled $2k with a tranny flush and refill, oil change and tranny suport bushing replacement. If the mechanic has done these before, it should take 4 hrs at best to do the upgrade, clutch, tranny in and out, about 8 hrs. total should be 12 hours. $3K seems a bit high but not for a dealer. With the tranny out, have then check the bearing for excess radial and axial play. At 23 K miles I would think the bearing should bo OK, mine had 94,500 miles and lots of play. Good luck. James Greer
  25. greerj1
    It sounds like a voltage spike. Is everything properly grounded and the ballast isolated? James Greer
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.