Scouser

Hmmm.....

Not sure I understand your reply there.... but if its fixed then great.

Not sure. The TSB is a long shot. It's probably doubtful that your flywheel is faulty as it is newly replaced. But, I have known of faulty parts or even badly fitted ones.......;-)

Springs on the clutch tend to be sqeeky when you operate the clutch pedal. They don't sound like the rattling noise you describe.

There's a TSB regarding Dual Mass Flywheel check procedure that concerns complaints of noise/rattling/nocking in the transmission.

Go to Loren's TSB section using the link at the top of the page. The TSB can be seen there.

My understanding is that when you purchase the Bahntech device you specify a timing which is programmed into it. The timing is how long it takes your hood to close. Could it be that the work done on your car has effected the time it takes to close your hood. Maybe they tightened something and it has added a second to the procedure so the Bahntech thinks it has finished. If the timing has changed I think you have to send the unit back to them to have it reprogrammed.

Yep those instructions for the B&M procedure are spot on. Can't go wrong. I swapped out my console for a GT Silver one yesterday.

Only thing I learned was that the arm rest hinge is different. Had to order a new metal hing to replace the plastic one that often breaks.

The new console I got didn't have the plastic hing. Also had to take off

all the screw retainers and armrest lock mechanism from the old console. Apart from that it went in dead easy. Took about an hour. I am sure I could do it again in 30 minutes.

I put a set of 2003 C4 oval tips on my 2000 Cab. I was told that they don't fit but they fit fine.

You can see them in my Garage.

Can't see em?

ZX7R,

Thanks for the feedback. I tried to contact you email/PM but no reply.

Is there any chance you could PM me your VIN# to test with?

Cheers,

There's a few B&M shifters going cheap on ebay right now $200 Buy it now. 22 available.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAP...TRK%3AMEWA%3AIT

Nice one.

The only thing I think I would have done extra is to put an inline fuse in the line to the button circuitry. The fuse in the light circuit may be too high.

Let us know your plans.  We will set up a work on cars day in San Jose.  Might even make it rain for you.

Jeff that's too funny :roflmao:

I have probably been to CA at least 100 times and I have yet ever to see it rain there. I am often told "you should have seen it last week, it was big storms". I doon't believe them. If it rains I want my money back.

If it all goes through i will let you know what my plans are. But would be great to have a workshop day while I am there. Arrive 31st for a week.

Cheers mate.

Jeff, that looks like a cool tool. Where did you get it? That's the sort of thing I am after.

BTW: I will be in San Fran 1st week in Aug.

I know, its a torx head (not sure of the size). I have the right head but it is sure difficult to get my hefty hand in there to unscrew it. Any suggestions for a tool that can get into that tight corner?

different bulbs maybe?

try using a set of two matched bulbs.

I need to remove the drop down seat backs in the back of my cab in order to get to the rear wall. Anyone done this?

TIA

Ah! I knew there would be a catch.

Got my hands on a very cheap deal for a new setup. Was toying with the idea. Thanks Loren.

Like everyone else with a cab, I have been searching for a good place to put a subwoofer.

Looking at the space between the pop-up roll bars there seems to be a good space to fit a low profile subwoofer like the Blaupunkt ODw 1000E. This speaker is 10" by 2.5" in depth. There's also a more expensive but high powered and punchy option.:Phase Linear Aliante 8si (sorry no link) is an 8" flat panel extremely efficient subwoofer and its about 2.2" in depth.

The question I have is, do you think mounting a speaker between the pop up bars is a bad idea? I can't see how it would interfear with anything but the red alen key which can be relocated. But what do you think?

Pardon if this has been asked before but will the Porsche Ceramic Composite Brake Package for 2004 996 C4S or a 2004 Turbo fit on a 2000 C2?

Talking about everything here including calipers, ceramic rotors, pads lines, air ducts, etc..

TIA

Yes, you need to replace the two forked latch seats in the front window frame. The top will latch into these and the old ones start to rattle. This is a 5 minute operation to replace.

You need to order 3 parts:

1 x 996.561.605.02 Right prong seat

1 x 996.561.606.02 Left pront seat

1 x 999.917.557.00 Krytox lubricant

The lubricant should be applied to the rubber seals "extremely" lightly.

There are TSBs for noises in the cab top. See Loren's TSB pages above.

Any more help needed just hollar.

IMHO I think this colour scheme is too loud. Still a beauty though.

Note that we don't seem to be seeing any FMS (Front Main Seal) problems. This is the crankshaft seal at the belt pulley end (front) of the engine. It only seems to occur at the RMS. If the oil grade was an issue then we should see similar problems with the FMS.

It confuses me why they haven't applied the same design bearing and seal from the front of the engine in the back. This makes me think that the cause of the problem is a misaligned transmission (or flywheel). If it wobbles it will cause crankshaft wobble leading to RMS failure. Just a hunch.

The RMS failure is a manufacturing fault. It hasn't failed through any wear and tear and especially on a 2.5 year motor. Since it's a design flaw it's not your fault so you should not be paying anything at all. I would take that up with Reading.

Thanks Loren.

The saga continues no less......

Hi Loren, see this thread just out on rennlist

http://forums.rennlist.com/rennforums/show...threadid=143999

Do you know of this TSB? Can we get our hands on it ;)

Gorgious ride. Are they cargraphic tips?