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Scouser

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Everything posted by Scouser

  1. Yeah, I figured that, Loren. But cheers anyway. It's weird that they set it to 23 MPH. Often there are several sets of speed humps in a road separated by a say a hundred yards and the tendency is to pick up a bit of speed in between them. Then by the time you are on the next speed hump, you have to lift the front axle again. Stupid design IMHO. I can't see how any damage could be done if the front axle was lifted at higher speeds. It should be programmable in the dash menus. Just my two bits worth. Hope you are keeping well btw. It's been a long time 😉
  2. I am getting the common FAL failure problem on my Turbo S. The FAL works, or at least seems to work, perfectly OK, but I get an error flash up when the FAL is lowered. DSC offer a replacement control unit, which I am considering, albeit its $1400 ! Anyway, what I want to know is, is it possible to tweek the operation speed? Currently, it automatically lowers at 23 MPH, but I would like to increase this to say 30 MPH. Anyone any thoughts or ideas how to achieve this, or if it's possible to program at all? TIA
  3. Finally, had the car dealt with at Porsche. It was the window relay. Replaced and now fixed.
  4. Hello folks, It's been too long! I took delivery of a rather stunning 991.2 TTS cab a few weeks back. Sad to see my old 996 cab go after owning it for 21 years, but it was starting to give me trouble and time for me to move on. Anyway....... the new 911 is of course under Porsche Approved Used car warranty, but the nearest Porsche shop is a way off to get to, to get this window fixed. Was wondering if anyone has any ideas, and maybe I can have a go at fixing it myself. Basically, the left (passenger side in the UK) rear quarter-light window does not go up or down, and it's stuck in the up position. If you open or close the cab top, that window stays static. Using the window button manually does the same thing, with the cab top open or closed. There is no fault recorded. In my old 996 if one of the windows failed to go up or down during opening/closing the cab top, an error would be thrown (well, at least the rooftop light would glow). But on this 991.2 there is no error thrown. I have checked the fuses, using the fuse diagram from : Fuse Box Diagram Porsche 911 (991) (2012-2016) FUSE-BOX.INFO Fuse box diagram (location and assignment of electrical fuses and relays) for Porsche 911 (991) (2012, 2013, 2014, 2015, 2016). ( Maybe I have the wrong fuse box layout. If anyone has a correct ROW based fuse box layout, that would be good. My car is a UK 2017 model, which I think is a 2018 in the US. So in a nutshell, if there is an easy fix that someone can give me some hints on that would be great. Otherwise, it's a trip to Porsche garage. Cheers all
  5. Hi Thanks for your response, however I have looked with the top in maintenance position on my 996. I can just about see the currogated tube at the side of all the linkage gubbins but there no way to access the water collection well. The only option I can see is to remove the side carpets but I dont know how to do that and was wondering if anyone does. The 986 convertible top is entirely different to the 996 so its not surprising. Cheers
  6. Hello friends, Long time no see. So I still have my trusty old 996, 21 years now and she's a darling. Iv'e giot the water in the back seat well problem so I am fairly certain its a clogged drain hole. Can anyone tell me how to remove the side carpet (below the rear speaker) so that I can get to the drain hole sump.Thanks in advance MY00 C2 Cab, UK spec.
  7. Been a long long time since I last posted. Still have the same C2 Cab but its getting old now :( Looking for part numbers for the front left and right side wheel hub/disc carrier. The thing the caliper is attached to with 2 x M12 T55 bolts.
  8. Just n 80,000 miles. Same engine. Purrs like a kitten. I don't know if its just me but it seems to be quicker than ever. Always driven hard. Almost 10 years. Yes, I know 8 RMS's and it still leaks But who cares.
  9. So, I figured it out. It is so simple it took me exactly 3 minutes to remove the parcel shelf from the hartop. Basically, it is just clipped in. All you do is undo the clips, push it up towards the window and slide it out. Refitting is reverse but I used a 6" nail to pull the clips back through. Tip: if you do this, its a good time to clean the window. If you intend cleaning the leather, do that first, followed by the window. My hardtop has been sitting in the air on a hoist for 3 years and collected an amazing amount of dust. This is why I had to clean it. Picture before and after tell the story. The marks are where I tried to get the vacuum between the window and the shelf. Impossible task.
  10. Hello folks, It's been a long time. I am still driving the same machine....with the same engine ;) I did a search for this but didn't come up with anything. Is it possible to remove the rear parcel shelf from the convertible top. It desperately needs a clean and I cant get into the corner near the window. Cheers
  11. Hi folks, Just to let you know I bought and fitted a 997.603.012.03 alternator and all works fine. Cost me £85 from ebay, a far cry fro £975+20%VAT from Porsche! And their quoted 4 hours labour is a joke. I found that when fitting the alternator if you screw the bolt in for the left arm first then use a piece of wood to lever the alternator down onto the arm it gos in like a dream. Took me about 1hr 20 minutes to fit. Cheers and many thanks Berny
  12. One final question, is there a difference between the TIP and Manual versions? Are they interchangeable?
  13. BTW, not a typo. My part number is definitely 996.603.012.02
  14. That's great info Maurice. I hope good news too as there are plenty of .03 parts available. So I just basically need confirmation that the .03 part will defo fit in place of the .02 part. I would hate to order t up thinking I got a bargain and i dont fit ;) Thanks Berny
  15. Can anyone help me with the difference between the 996 and or the 997 Alternator parts or even the 987 for that matter. Mine is 996.603.012.02 Can I use a 997.603.012.02 ? What about 996.603.012.01 and 996.603.012.603? Cant seem to locate a reasonable priced used unit with my part number but I can see lots of genuine OEM parts with other above numbers available this side of the pond on ebay. Any help appreciated. Cheers Berny
  16. Got the alternator out following Loren's "fair to moderate" DIY. Sorry Loren but it isn't clear from the instructs which bits are what. The diagrams have arrows to bits but no explanations as to where they are exactly . To the home DIYer it would be helpful to know which is the belt drive pully, vacuum switchover valve, etc. I did figure it out in the end but to be honest I would have had the alternator removed in literally 15 minutes if I hadn't had to scout around to figure which bits are which in the instructs. Just a bit of constructive feedback Loren. Anyway, in the end it took me about 45 minutes. I didnt have an alerminium mallet so I used a piece of hardwood and jammed it between the holding arm and alternator and prized it apart extremely easy. Also, I dd manage to fairly easily get the alternator off the holding arm COUNTERCLOCKWISE. The instructions say the alternator must be removed by turning it clockwise towards the crank case but it just would not move that way. The wood prizing took it the opposite way extremely easily then I simply pushed the alternator back, turned it so that the left attachment arm was free of its fixing and pulled the unit out. It is extremely tight but it is possible and personally I think easier this way. OK, so now I have it out, are there any instructions on how to inspect the brushes. I turn the spindle and it seems extremely silent. I dont hear any brushes at all. Based on the fault, this is what I am suspecting. Cheers
  17. Hi folks, Well, for the first time in years my porker gave me some trouble this weekend. Noticed the amp/volt meter randomly dropping and picking up and then finally it dropped out. All sorts of lights came up on the dash. It was nighttime and I had to limp home on the battery power but eventually even that gave up. So I had to get the AA to flatbed me home. The AA tested my battery and said it was good. He also did some tests on the alternator. Said it was reading about 13.7 at about 1500 revs. Said it was not marvelous but still should not be a problem. I am fairly convinced its the alternator but there are some oddities: * I noticed when the alternator faied, if I revved the engine hard with a quick kick, the alternator kicked back in but then failed again later. * I also thought I saw the alternator fail and kick back in when I hit bumps in the road. * This is the first time I have taken the car out this winter after hibernating for 4 months. The battery was dead, I boost started it and drove 40 miles thinking I could charge it. Was this enough time to charge? So anyway, me thinks I may have a faulty or corroded connection somewhere. Anyway, I took the car to my local Porsche service center. They want, get this, £975, plus 20% VAT to fit a new alternator. Sheesh! So I am seriously thinking of doing the job myself with Lauren's DIY instructions. My Question, for a lowly computer geek who can be dangerous with a few spanners (wrenches), is this really a DIY job or should I just cough up mullah to have it done professionally?
  18. If it aint broke, don't break it. In other words leave it alone.
  19. I agree. Knowing that it could be the ISS also, then it's going to a shop for a checkup. At 12k miles, it's too early for a new clutch but I may just get a new one anyway. I think I'll tell my indy to try the GT3 motorsports seal. :renntech: Did you try the GT3 motorsports seal and how did it work out for you? I have the 997 seal in my 2001 engine and it leaked within 3 hrs driving time. If the new seal worked what was the PN#. Hopefully find out soon what to use since it is going in the shop tomorrow. I guess I should have updated this thread a long time ago. I had the GT3 Motorsport seal fnally fitted May last year. Since then I have done about 6500 miles. The seal does not appear to be leaking. While I will hold my breath on it. It is certainly a record. Typically the last 7 seals have leaked within weeks of being fitted if not days. The underside of my bellhousing is dry as a bone. But.....I still will hold my breath. One other thing.... yes.....its fitted in reverse. Update. 74,000 miles. And would you guess it. It leaks! Well to be honest, it sort of leaks. It doesn't actually drop oil, it just sweats oil around the crank case. But she still runs like a babe. Never uses any oil between oil changes.
  20. I saw my first Panamera today while I was in London. So excited to see it in the flesh but I walked off without taking a copy of its VIN. doh! I am working on the next update to the decoder. Would love to include support for the Panamera but I don't have any VINS in my database. If your up to helping me out (and the Porsche community) please send me your VIN with some details of your car (especially options, type, etc etc). Please be certain that your VIN number or any other details that you send me will not be given to "any" 3rd party and will only be placed into my personal database which is stored on a separate machine "not" connected to the Internet. It will only be used to test future VIN Decoders. Cheers in advance Berny (Scouser)
  21. Well blow me! And here's me thinking it is a battery. Is there in fact a separate battery for the alarm as Tech9 told me? Many thanks Richard.
  22. I got the alarm unit out. It is indeed the battery that's the problem. There is corrosion in the battery socket where the connector fits. If I rock the socket extremely gently the alarm goes off. The battery is on a bracket. It is definitely separate to the horn but the bracket attaches next to the main battery. The bracket holds the horn and the battery together. The part number for the battery for future reference is 996.618.265.00. I will post pics later. When I look at the pins sticking out the batter where the connector goes, there is battery fluid and it has corroded the pins and connector. Dont suppose anyone knows the part number for the connector? There are two connectors. One is black and oval sort of shaped. That's for the horn. The other is an orange flat connector about 2 inch across. Its the orange one I need.
  23. Not sure about US/CAN cars but the RoW 996 for UK use is fitted with a separate battery for the alarm system. I am fairly certain its on its way out as my car has been off the road for 3 months due to me breaking some bones in a non-driving related accident and the alarm is now going off on its own for a few seconds and then dying. The car has not moved and its just started to happen. So it cant be anything mechanical. I even checked for a mouse ;) but thankfully nothing around. Car starts 1st time and sounds sweet. I suspect the alarm battery has discharged and its causing the alarm to sound. Anyone know where the battery is located and how to replace it or how to disconnect iin order to charge it? TIA
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