Scouser

bet,

I bought the car from a guy who went chapter 11 about 2 weeks after he bought the car. It had 560 miles on it so I became the second owner. But technically I have had the car since new. ANd it has been meticulously serviced, garaged and treated like a baby since. Never tracked.

Shortly after it ran out of warranty I noticed a drip of oil on the floor of the garage: 27, 000 miles.

They "so call" fixed it under their good-will scheme. I had to pay £230.

Since then it has had two more RMS replaced at no cost to me. This 4th one (at 37,000 mls) I am not certain about as technically it is exactly a year since the first RMS problem and that was guaranteed for a year.

So technically I am now out of warranty. There is possibly zilch chance they will replace the engine (as they should) but if they wanted to go down that route I am fairly certain they would want to charge me for it. Or at least have me pay a handsome amount towards it under good will. I love this car but it is very doubtful I would buy another pcar. The after service sucks here in the UK. For a car of this calibre I expect better engineering and a more fair service system. So whatever, it's Porsche AG's loss. If they would have treated my problems right from the start I would be looking at a 997 now. Instead I have my name down now for the new Aston Martin AMv8. I don't know if AM are any better than Porsche but I sure am going to give a try.

Don, keep praying for me mate. Thanks. BTW: Holy cr*p to you too. I didn't know you owned a speedster too. I saw your site the other day. Double holy cr*p! You lucky sob. Two gorgeous pcars :notworthy:

Well I know I go on about it but.....

My car goes in for it 4th RMS in less than a year on Friday.

I explained to Porsche UK (customer care center) that on rennlist & renntech I have read about engines being replaced in cars with problematic reocuring RMS's in the US. They said that that may be so in the US but it is NOT the case in the UK. Porsche UK said that they have never replaced a 996 engine because of RMS problems.

I have now learned to live my RMS problem. I love the car, it doesn't have any effect on performance and so far (touch wood) I haven't lost a clutch to it.

For me, the seat belt warning lamp was just faulty. I replaced it and it now works. The warning lamp stays on if the driver does not lock his belt.

In the UK, the gong does not sound if the seat belt warning lamp is on.

It is not required here. However, I beleive this feature can be turned on

by the dealer. By default is is turned off for UK spec cars.

In my 2000 C2 Cab, the speedo A wire was already in the CDR-220 head connector wire loom. This connector is the ISO connector that clicks into the head unit. It was already there for me in the loom ;)

I just found the answer to our problems.

http://www.densionusa.com/x/index.php?opti...d=375&Itemid=79

I dunno where you got 50Mph from I thought it was officially a max of 30 MPH and only in the latest cabs 03 onwards.

....the user manual states quite clearly about opening/closing the top on a level surface. If your driving while openng/closing the top then you are on a flat surface ;-)

Yes, 12v it is. This became obvious to me when I measured 12v coming out the Griffin iPod car charger. Very convenient.

I just recently put in a Blaupunkt Sat Nav/Radio/CD system. Prior to this

I had a Kenwood head and I made the cable above to attach to the

kenwood Aux input adapter (CA-C1AX). This worked brilliantly.

Looking at this Aux input adaptor cable in detail I can see a simple

diode/resistor inserted into the cable. The idea is that the cable tricks the Kenwood head into thinking a CD changer is attached and so it is selectable from the menus.

However, I can't get the iPod to work similarly with my new Blaupunkt

SatNav head and Blaupunkt do not apparently have an Aux input

adapter solution. It has something to do with the communications

protocol (called Unilink) used by the Blaupunkt CD changer.

There's a web site dedicated to this "unilink" problem:

http://www.cus.org.uk/~cleggy/index.htm

Anyway, back to the suppressor: yes it is installed in the supply wires to

the ipod (as seen in the picture above).

I have had this "exact" problem for some time now.

I think the air-bag light is supposed to come on at ignition and then

go out soon after but the seat belt light never lights up even at ignition

and I never get the gong. As you know I have done quite a bit of wire hacking on my car but I had this problem befor any mods were done.

I assumed it was a bulb gone. I am waiting for one to arrive to see the outcome.

yikes! I would get that straight to the dealer.

Sounds like something is bent or undone to cause that.

You MUST ensure you operate the top open or close on a flat and even surface. These cars are stiff as hell but even so, the tolerances in the top mechanism only require a slight twist in the chasis and the top mechanism can go all to hell.

Before you do that think of doing this instead:

Go buy a Griffin car charger. Chop the charger off the end

and make a cable like the one attached. This cable connects to

the bottom of your ipod and it will switch on with the engine and

charge your ipod up as well as supply audio to the head!

When you chop the head off the charger, you will see shielding cables

and some wires. Tie all the shielding cables together with the black wire.

This single line becomes ground. The red wire is ignition switched 12v and has the supressor attached. The ground goes to the other side of the suppressor. It is important to obtain an isolating suppressor (see photo). The audio wires are yellow for right and green for left.

The other wires should be taped up and they are not used.

Here's some pics:

And the cable I made with suppressor attached:

Coupla things to try.

Start you engine while operating the top.

Make certain you are on a level and flat surface before operaing the top.

Try opening and closing the engine bay lid. This may sound crazy but it

did it for me once.

Pull the handbreak up at least two notches.

Ensure the two flaps at the side are not stuck.

Try reseating the relays in the fuse bay area.

meter check the fuses.

Does the top move at all?

Does the top compartment lid above the engine lift up in readiness to

dispell or accept the top?

Dos the top motor sound at all? even if it sounds distressed.

Greg, this sounds very interesting.

Can you be a little more clear describing your wiring to the blue block.

I assume you mean you have a blue block with 2 RCA connectors and you somehow wired in your CD changer. But more details (perhaps pin numbers) would be good with detail of which wires go to which pins.

BTW: A suppressor inserted into the power line to the cd changer should remove the RPM noise.

Cheers,

Berny

I think your talking about the two guide clips way back in the slot.

If it is these then your head unit will slip back most of the way then it

hits a dead stop on these two clips.

The best way to get around this is to take off the A/C control unit,

flip the surround carefully with a butter knife, then undo the two screws

holding the A/C unit. It will simply slip out. From there you can get to your radio to help it back in the slot. I have found sometimes that some cables can get lodged in them clips. Be aware of this.

Oh, and BTW, the tool that everyone is mentioning here is to "remove" your radio. I guess you already done that to get into this situation. So you don;t need them ;)

Cheers,

Berny

Geeze you guys are good!

The tan one below the blue connector is the one I need for the LCD backlight and the I need one black one for the seatbelt.

Jeff, the pic above is confusing a bit. Maybe its a ROV vs US change.

But on my dash tke 4 blulbs from the left (looking at it from the back like in your pic) are Cab top warning, roll-ver protection, airbag, seat belt. I guess this pic is from a none-cab dash pod. But where is the seat belt warning lamp?

Anyway many thanks guys.

Hi Loren,

I have two bulbs need replacing in my dash. I asked my dealer but he said I would need to remove them from the dash in order for him to tell which ones they are. This is a hassle. I was hoping to just remove dash and replace bulbs in one fell sweep. I can't believe he can't look them up.

Anyway......

ANy chance of the part numbers for the bulbs:

seat belt warning light: 4th from the right on ROW 2000 C2

back light behind mileage counter LCD (upper far left ROW 2000 C2)

Cheers mate,

Berny

OK, I have done this on two heads and there are issues:

First off, you can't splice in the ipod to the CD Changer.

The head communicates with the CDC via the data in/out pins.

Basically these are TTL data lines (+5v) that tell the head that a CD-changer is attached. If you can;t arrange to pull the CDC data in line

high then the head simply can't see the changer. So just shoving

the shielded audio into the blue socket won't work. You also have to

trick the head into thinking the ipod is a CD Changer by pulling the

data line high. If you don't do this you can't tell the head to go use

the CD-changer.

This is not easy to explain as diagrams are required. I have almost

completed a web page for this. Maybe I will put it out tommorow if I get time.

Cheers Iwe. I don't track my car so I hope me struts hang in there ;)

v8huntr, strange how you could accomodate 19" wheels without rolling the fender in. Maybe its because my car has the lowered suspension that I had to roll mine.

It turned out that the Grey/pink signal wire was already there in the ISO connector. All I had to do was mount the GPS receiver, plug in the two ISO cables (stock) and away it goes. Fantastic little box too!

Bought it for a song on ebay. So now I have sat nav.

cool.

Thanks Loren anyway.

Just purchased a Blaupunkt TravelPilot DX-R70 single DIN Sat Nav system.

http://www.blaupunkt.co.uk/7612300057_main.asp

It requires connection to the speedo's signal wire. Where do I find this?

I assume (hope) we have one.

Cheers,

Berny

Very nice indeed.

I take it you had to bend the fenders to accommodate the 19" wheels?

IMHO I think 19" wheels look great on this car. I have had mine for

almost 4 years and had no problems with them. But for some strange

reason Porsche don't approve of them.

Hmmm....

Thanks rockitman. However I am still not convinced. I would like to read other peoples response who have this thing fitted before I take the plunge. Saying that, I guess there must be a good reason for them going to the trouble of manufacturing a billet version ;)

Check the battery leads are connected fast.

Check the fuses.

Do you get a click from the ignition when you turn the key?

So what does this EVO billet shift link give you?

Is it just more robust that the stock plastic one or does it provide some sort of extra benefit to the shift mechanism?

Sorry, I just can't see what the point of it is.

Any words of wisdom would help?

Cheers,

Berny

We had our first decent few days this Easter weekend. Took the hard top off. We went out for a drive in Wales. I put the top up when we went for a walk and on return I opened the top again. I had exactly this problem. I tried opening and closing the top at least 4 times. Same thing every time. Finally I remembered, you have to do this on a level surface. The surface I was on was totally flat but slightly out of level. I found a level surface and tried to close the top. It closed properly first time and it hasn't given me any problems since.

What can you use to clean up all the alu engine bits.

Just been through a salt-road ridden winter :-(