Dennis Nicholls

Now  a 2000 986 is a 16 year old car, and brake pad technology has improved in the interval.  Ceramic pads once were for racing only, as they required heating up before they grab.  Now you can buy "street quiet ceramic" pads for regular street use that do not require pre-heating.  I got a set of Bendix quiet ceramic pads for my 1996 Miata and they work better than the originals.

My question:  does Porsche put improved technology pads into their replacement parts catalog?  If I buy a Porsche-branded brake pad for my 2000 986, will they be exactly as was installed at the factory, or will they reflect the improvements in brake pad technology?

Well anyway....

I changed out the plugs today.  It's a tiresome job on jackstands when you are over 60 and getting stiff in the joints.  I'd put this off for too long though - I ordered the set of plugs in February 2014.  I've been worried about the plugs in the car being the originals and therefore prone to being "stuck" and pulling a few threads out of the head when they came.  But these were newer plugs and they came out easily.  Too easily for the #1 and #4 plugs....they were barely in "snug"....whatever shop did the job before was too lazy to try to use a torque wrench on those two at the front of the engine.  But at least the plastic tubes, O-rings, and rubber boots on the coils were all in top shape. 

I was able to use a torque wrench (22 ft-lbs) on all the plugs, but had to "guess" on two of the hex head bolts holding in the coils (90 inch-lbs).  I just couldn't get access on those two.

I drove the car 20 miles and no CEL came on so I guess I didn't bungle the job.  Now it's good for another 30K/60K miles, depending upon which Porsche blurb you read.

I've got a tool that looks just like that - made by Blackhawk - made in the USA of all places.  I know how to work it for standard one-ground plugs where there a "gap" between the center electrode and the bent wire ground electrode. 

But the Bosch plugs are supposed to be gapped properly when you buy them.  The gap on the new plugs looks to be just every so slightly narrower than on the used plugs.

As per the photo, there's a gap between the grounds and the center insulator, but the center electrode stands high over where the grounds are.....I'm not sure which dimension is the "gap" called out in the spec.

I'm starting to change the plugs in my 2000 base 986 with 57K miles.

The first plug I pulled out is a Bosch 7413   (FGR 6 KQE).  It looks to be of recent vintage. That letter E at the end of the part number is the most recent dash number since that's what I bought as a replacement.  So I presume that the plugs have been changed at least once in the past.

All I have for records is a CarFax report, which lists helpful entries like "service performed". 

My question now is ..... how do you measure the "gap" with these 4 electrode plugs?  The center electrode stands above the plane of the four ground electrodes.   The spec is 1.6 mm + 0.05 mm.

I'm a little apprehensive about upgrading to the new MS Windows 10....

Mostly because I'm dependent upon the Durametric software working properly.

I contacted Durametric and they said they are working on testing for compatibility.  So far so good from their perspective.  And they mentioned that some users had successfully run V.6 under Win 10.  But Durametric won't give it their blessing for another month or so.

Any one here try and have any problems running Durametric under the upgraded Win 10? 

I think the factory black fades to silver with age.  I had to get a new cover put on and the grills were black.  It looks better that way.

OP:

The most important question for you is this:  do you work on your own cars?

The Boxster is not "rocket science".  It's just a car like any other.  Some things are a royal pain e.g. changing the spark plugs.  But pulling the tranny to change the clutch isn't more difficult than on my 1996 Miata - I've now done both.

RockAuto says rear inner/rear outer is the same Beck Arnley part number for my 2000 986 base).  .  http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/moreinfo.php?pk=495366&cc=1364385&jnid=393&jpid=0

What does the PET say?  Or does it only show the entire subassy. as a replaceable part?

Some guy in England posted the set on his website a year ago, along with many other sets (e.g. E-type Jag).  However it was taken down, perhaps by threats from the copyright owners.  It is unclear how many here were able to download said manuals when they were available.

As of 2013, even the BMW boxer motorcycle engine is watercooled. Pollution and noise emissions, possibility of more power. VW have been watercooled since 1984, i.e. 1983 was their last air cooled engine. Porsche was frankly late to the game.

My brother once bought a new 1983 "wasserboxer" VW Vanagon.  IIRC that year both air cooled and water cooled versions were sold, perhaps for the last time.

Why no returns?

 

Might both be that the stress and cost of dealing with people not qualified to do the job or who are attempting to return parts they have used and botched up has driven them nuts?

IIUC for the crossover years consumers would once order BOTH kinds from LN and just return the unused one for a refund.  I'd guess LN got tired of bankrolling such a program.

I got out my box.... "Lemforder 34705 01 009.  Cross No. 987 375 057 02"  on the box itself. There's a separate strip-label put on that also says 987 375 023 05 on it - I don't know why.

I'm still putting off my winter projects as the weather has been nice (i.e. top down) around here lately. 

I have to agree with what Porshce engineers say there cars recommend, period. Are we smarter then those engineers?

You mean the same engineers who designed the AOS and the single-row IMS bearing? 

Are the metal flakes magnetic? 

The air gap is intentional to permit the center part to move about a bit as it soaks up vibration from the engine.  That's sort of the whole point  of a motor mount.  If performance is a must then Pelican sells "performance" wedges you can stuff in the voids, but these will greatly increase the NVH felt on the street.

I myself had considered the cheap route....but for $400 more went with the LN.  If nothing else it adds more than that to the resale value of the car.

IIRC the dual-row IMSB is a generic 5204-2RS ball bearing, available for about $20 through Amazon or via a place like this:

http://www.usabearingsandbelts.com/18m7/double-row-ball-bearings/5200-series.html  .

You still need the tool kit, and perhaps buy the Pelican kit just for the upgraded center bolt.  So $20 plus $165 for the Pelican kit is $185.  The LN kit can be had for as low as $577 online.

You forgot to add the $150 diagnostic charge in your second total.

This guy posted a DIY on rebuilding the alternator, but he uses the German/English translation of "control circuit" for "voltage regulator".  http://www.renntech.org/forums/tutorials/article/95-diy-change-of-the-generators-circuit-control/  Pelican has the voltage regulator/brushes module for $37.

One of the most difficult to pin down quantities is "level of mechanical skills".  Some people (e.g. my sister) can't even check their tire pressure.  I'm sort of a middling level home mechanic but am not adverse to the old "let's pull the tranny and change the IMSB" ethos.

I ordered one from Amazon before SilverTT even posted - $37 shipped.  It came today.  Note the box lists Porsche part number 987 375 057 02.   I believe because of the part number and the egg-shaped center part that this is the "improved" 987 motor mount which is supposed to be a superior design to the original 986 part with an oval-shaped center part. 

Box is labeled "ZF" and "Made in Korea, Rep. of".   Outside cylinder is approximately 75 mm diameter and 60 mm long.

Dempsey has this photo which shows the correct orientation of the part in the carrier.  The Lemforder part even has the same yellow paint mark shown on one side.

Some simple searching discovered that Lemforder is a company owned by ZF, the big German tranny company. 

The Durametric sells for $280 - about the cost of two O2 sensors. 

IIRC the US DOT decided to ban ATE Blue brake fluid, since they decided that all brake fluid sold should be straw colored.  The ATE Blue was banned simply because of the color.

"We're from the Government and we're here to help you." 

The Lemforder/Lemfoerder mount is sold by places like Pelican, ECS Tuning, et al. as an alternative to the genuine Porsche mount, which only comes installed in the bracket.  It also shows up on Amazon, eBay, etc.

I'm starting to shop for winter projects.  A front motor mount is suggested at around my mileage (54K).  You can get the Porsche mount with bracket for $125 or the Lemforder (alt. spelling Lemfoerder) motor mount insert for about $35.  This latter one requires you to remove and replace the insert, reusing the original bracket.

Is this a quality piece?  How hard is it to press out and press in the new insert?  Is it a hammer-and-socket job, or something I farm out to a shop?

Does anyone have any experience with the following tire brands?  Some are from Indonesia, China, Korea and elsewhere.

 

Mayrun

 

That sounds like a line from Click & Clack on PBS...."Mayrun tires".