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Now a 2000 986 is a 16 year old car, and brake pad technology has improved in the interval. Ceramic pads once were for racing only, as they required heating up before they grab. Now you can buy "street quiet ceramic" pads for regular street use that do not require pre-heating. I got a set of Bendix quiet ceramic pads for my 1996 Miata and they work better than the originals. My question: does Porsche put improved technology pads into their replacement parts catalog? If I buy a Porsche-branded brake pad for my 2000 986, will they be exactly as was installed at the factory, or will they reflect the improvements in brake pad technology?
Well anyway.... I changed out the plugs today. It's a tiresome job on jackstands when you are over 60 and getting stiff in the joints. I'd put this off for too long though - I ordered the set of plugs in February 2014. I've been worried about the plugs in the car being the originals and therefore prone to being "stuck" and pulling a few threads out of the head when they came. But these were newer plugs and they came out easily. Too easily for the #1 and #4 plugs....they were barely in "snug"....whatever shop did the job before was too lazy to try to use a torque wrench on those two at the front of the engine. But at least the plastic tubes, O-rings, and rubber boots on the coils were all in top shape. I was able to use a torque wrench (22 ft-lbs) on all the plugs, but had to "guess" on two of the hex head bolts holding in the coils (90 inch-lbs). I just couldn't get access on those two. I drove the car 20 miles and no CEL came on so I guess I didn't bungle the job. Now it's good for another 30K/60K miles, depending upon which Porsche blurb you read.
I've got a tool that looks just like that - made by Blackhawk - made in the USA of all places. I know how to work it for standard one-ground plugs where there a "gap" between the center electrode and the bent wire ground electrode. But the Bosch plugs are supposed to be gapped properly when you buy them. The gap on the new plugs looks to be just every so slightly narrower than on the used plugs. As per the photo, there's a gap between the grounds and the center insulator, but the center electrode stands high over where the grounds are.....I'm not sure which dimension is the "gap" called out in the spec.
I'm starting to change the plugs in my 2000 base 986 with 57K miles. The first plug I pulled out is a Bosch 7413 (FGR 6 KQE). It looks to be of recent vintage. That letter E at the end of the part number is the most recent dash number since that's what I bought as a replacement. So I presume that the plugs have been changed at least once in the past. All I have for records is a CarFax report, which lists helpful entries like "service performed". My question now is ..... how do you measure the "gap" with these 4 electrode plugs? The center electrode stands above the plane of the four ground electrodes. The spec is 1.6 mm + 0.05 mm.
I'm a little apprehensive about upgrading to the new MS Windows 10.... Mostly because I'm dependent upon the Durametric software working properly. I contacted Durametric and they said they are working on testing for compatibility. So far so good from their perspective. And they mentioned that some users had successfully run V.6 under Win 10. But Durametric won't give it their blessing for another month or so. Any one here try and have any problems running Durametric under the upgraded Win 10?
OP: The most important question for you is this: do you work on your own cars? The Boxster is not "rocket science". It's just a car like any other. Some things are a royal pain e.g. changing the spark plugs. But pulling the tranny to change the clutch isn't more difficult than on my 1996 Miata - I've now done both.
RockAuto says rear inner/rear outer is the same Beck Arnley part number for my 2000 986 base). . http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/moreinfo.php?pk=495366&cc=1364385&jnid=393&jpid=0 What does the PET say? Or does it only show the entire subassy. as a replaceable part?
Some guy in England posted the set on his website a year ago, along with many other sets (e.g. E-type Jag). However it was taken down, perhaps by threats from the copyright owners. It is unclear how many here were able to download said manuals when they were available.
My brother once bought a new 1983 "wasserboxer" VW Vanagon. IIRC that year both air cooled and water cooled versions were sold, perhaps for the last time.
IIUC for the crossover years consumers would once order BOTH kinds from LN and just return the unused one for a refund. I'd guess LN got tired of bankrolling such a program.
I got out my box.... "Lemforder 34705 01 009. Cross No. 987 375 057 02" on the box itself. There's a separate strip-label put on that also says 987 375 023 05 on it - I don't know why. I'm still putting off my winter projects as the weather has been nice (i.e. top down) around here lately.
You mean the same engineers who designed the AOS and the single-row IMS bearing?
Are the metal flakes magnetic?
The air gap is intentional to permit the center part to move about a bit as it soaks up vibration from the engine. That's sort of the whole point of a motor mount. If performance is a must then Pelican sells "performance" wedges you can stuff in the voids, but these will greatly increase the NVH felt on the street.