Achlex

Hey everyone, Issue turned out to be a collapsted lifter. It went right back up after an oil change. No debris in the filter. I will keep a close eye on how it runs in the coming months!

Can you remove the oil filter with the engine still full? Or do you need to drain it first?

Hey guys, My 996, a late 98 3.4, started to exhibit a strong knocking sound coming from the driver's side of the engine. It's the dreaded "sounds like a lifter" type of knock. Very audible at idle, gets faster & louder as revs increase (haven't revved it past 2.5k): Streamable Video STREAMABLE.COM Watch this video on Streamable. Streamable Video STREAMABLE.COM Watch this video on Streamable. I did push the car fairly hard a few hours earlier, though for a very short period of time (basically merged from 40-150+ and backed off, engine fully warmed up). No overheating or oil pressure issues. The car was running fine coming home, I have a small garage so I would have heard anything backing up with the windows down and the sunroof open. Started it up three hours later, and the noise appeared within 500 yards. I didn't do anything to the car in between save for a mod on the PSE relay (cutout delete), which seems unrelated. Also, the car just spent 3 weeks in the shop for a new IMS / clutch, and cylinder #6 was bore checked, with no evidence of scoring found. One of the chain tensioners was also swapped for a good used unit. The oil is brand new (<150 miles), the oil level hasn't changed, and oil pressure is still good (4.5 bar cold). There also isn't a single code on the ECU. The tailpipes are a bit black on the inside but there's no oily residue in them, nor is there any on the bumper. Overall, this is a very clean car with a full service history, low miles (45k), and "only" four prior owners in 25 years, though it was seldom driven in the past 10 years (6000 miles or so). I didn't have it towed yet but showed a video of it to a couple of shops, both of which were sort of expecting a full rebuild would be needed. Interestingly, one said he found most cases of catastrophic engine failures he sees happen within weeks / months of a car changing hands. In any case, I'm looking for any kind of input / help, but will also accept empathy and Porsche reliability jokes. BR,

From what I understand, you simply inserted a switch between the diode and the board, right? Seems like an elegant solution, and with the relay being north of $200 now, a good way to keep the car closer to stock.