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Palting 996 C4S

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Everything posted by Palting 996 C4S

  1. Excellent thread on the "Underperforming seal". Lots of info. My car is going for it's second RMS leak next week. Got the lowdown on the new seal with the plastic installation aid ring from the above thread, as well as the new tool. But, I think they did all that the first time, january 2005, so I'm not so certain it will work. If this leaks again, they may offer me a "new" engine. How about some opinions? I've got 36K miles on this engine. I'm actually quite happy with it, not a problem other than the RMS leak. The "new" engine, if it's offered, as I understand from previous postings is a re-manufactured one. If offered, would you guys take it? It seems like a no brainer, TAKE IT. Brand new, I probably would. But re-manufactured? Why was it re-manufactured? Would I be replacing one problem for another, or worse, inheriting a new one top of the RMS?
  2. Just wanted to let everyone know that the X73 is in, and that I wouldn't have been able to have it done with confidence that it was done right without all the info I got from here. As a small gesture, I've become a "contributing" member. Thank you all, especially Loren.
  3. Don't PSM cars have ABD, an electronic method coupled to the ABS, to act as an LSD?
  4. What if you turn PSM off when on the track? I routinely do after the first run. Does Sport Chrono remap the PSM response when it's off? If it doesn't, then it's still lame :).
  5. I have a low moaning resonance. Don't know if you are refering to the same thing, but it's about the right RPM and gear. It can get quite annoying and tiresome on long highway drives. I think it's engine/drivetrain resonance. All the 987's I've test driven have it, and my car has it. It's part of the car's character. Annoying, but the only thing anyone can do about is drive slower/faster or have the top down.
  6. I'll join you in a martini one of these days, Dell :). Loren, you continue to amaze!! Just curious. You are member number 2. Who's member number 1?
  7. Thanks, Loren and Dell. I'll get working on it this week. Why MY'03 and up C4S? As far as I know, there were no significant changes to the 996 C4S chassis from MY2002 until the 997 C4S came out in 2005. If there were chassis changes, anyone know what they were?
  8. Thanks, Dell. !995 Euro converts to $2415 currently. Plus possible tax and dues if you have the bad luck to be picked by customs. I'll get it locally. The dealer will match any price I can find so they can keep my business. I'll check around for the best price, then deal with them. Should be ready for the the April thaw. Yeehah! You sure about the part number? I got 000-044-500-38 from another source.
  9. OK. I've had it with the stock suspension. I was just checking out my tires for the coming spring DE Season, and my relatively newer track tires are corded on the outside shoulder edge. Again. I'm going to do the X73. I have a lot of confidence with the dealership techs, but NOT with the parts department. I would appreciate it if someone would give me the actual part numbers for the X73 components. I've done the search, and have the recommended alignment settings for the X73 on the C4S. Million thanks to Loren. Now all I need are the part numbers. Thanks in advance!!
  10. Thanks, Surgeon! I'm trying to get some price/cost bidding by the service places to get the best price to obtain and install the thing. It's all your fault, anyway. You've made such a glowing endorsement of the X73, I just have to have it now :D.
  11. Anyone have the part numbers for the X73 components for the 2002 996 C4S?
  12. Thanks, Loren and tool pants. This is for either the 2002 C4S or the 2005 987S. I found the wiring diagrams for the 2002 C4S. Guess I can just hook up the compressor in sreies with one of the electic horns and keep my fingers crossed hoping all goes well like with tool pants..
  13. I just bought a 150dB compact air horn. Blast those darn SUV's off the road, heh-heh :cursing: . Has a relay and need to get lots of watt power. Anyone have or know where I can get schematics for the power source?
  14. Yes, I'm looking for 11" rears. The original wheels on the C4S have ribs in the back and rubber valves, though.
  15. I put a serious scrape and dent on my rear wheel. Unfixable, or at least, I will no longer trust it. So, now I'm looking at used TT wheels. I believe the earlier edition 2001 TT's had solid spokes, later hollow. Anyone know the part numbers for the hollow spoke TT wheels, or how to tel one from the other? Does the metal........aaaaarrrrrgh.. mental block, you know, the thingie to put air in......... if it's metal, does it mean it's the hollow spoke? There's another one one guy is calling Turbo II. Never heard of that one. Is that the same as Turbo Look II ?
  16. Thanks. I guess I just wanted somebody to tell me it was OK to switch sides on radials. :) It's getting done today.
  17. I'm on my third set of tires. Ist set were P-Zeros, second set were R-compund DOT's, and I am back on the P-Zeros. Wore out the outside grooves of the left hand tires on the first two sets, in fact corded the R-compounds. Now beginning to show more outside tread wear on the left hand tires again. All the tracks I go to are clockwise. Had the alignment checked after I corded the R-compounds, and they were at the correct factory specs for C4S. I am not too comfortable switching left to right on radial tires. Looks like I have to do something other than factory specs. Anyone with suggestions on a good compromise setting for street and track?
  18. Dunno if this post should be here or in DIY tips. Anyway, I know you should not overtighten the bleeder screws, otherwise you either deform or strip them. Both will lead to rendering the seals useless, leaks all over the paint, if not outright brake failure. I tighten it to what I call the "personal pucker factor", if you know what I mean. So far, I've been lucky. Any tips on how to know enough is enough?
  19. Rather than looking at which gear it hiccups in, pay close atention to at what RPM it hiccups. Gentle acceleration under any gear, there is a VarioCam hiccup anywhere from 2800 to 3200 rpm, followed by a gentle "kick in the behind" as the engine not only catches up but seems to pull harder. Since I've put in PSE, I've noticed this hiccup is also followed by a subtle change in the exhaust tone. If that's what your car is doing, I wouldn't let it bother me too much. It only happens when I am accelerating so gently I would have upshifted before the hiccup rpm anyway. If the rpm goes beyond 3K, I'm usually accelerating hard enough that the hiccup doesn't happen or is unnoticeable.
  20. Get one. If you do DE's with any sort of regularity, it's a must have.
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