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Palting 996 C4S

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About Palting 996 C4S

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  • Porsche Club
    PCA (Porsche Club of America)
  • Present cars
    '05 987S
    '02 996 C4S
  1. YES!! It's going to be either #5 - selector lever, part # 99630305501, or #9 -selector lever, part #99630305300. I suspect it's #5. I'll have to take another look under the car to be sure. Thank you!!!
  2. Hi Joe. I appreciate the help. The diagram is just shy of showing the part. What I need is the part that the cable (part 99642404109) attaches to on the transmission side. It would be the part that the female end of the cable on the lower left hand side of the diagram would attach to. A parts diagram of the exterior of the transmission would likely show the part, but I haven't found that one.
  3. Hello everyone. It's been a while. Found threads on replacing the shifter cable. Thanks to all for that. The cable is new, but now I see that the point where the female end of the cable attaches to, the male end that is on the lever that is on the transmission, is shot to pieces as well. Anyone know how to replace this male end, and the part and number needed? BTW, this is a 2002 996 C4S Coupe. Thanks in advance!
  4. I hear you and agree. I guess it comes down to trust. They messed up, so I'm not too sure I want to bring it back to them. OTOH, I trust this forum and you, Loren.
  5. Hi guys. The dealer changed one of the shifter cables. Just had the car back. Unfortunately, they seem to have done something to the shifter. In the past, the shifter would definitely return to the middle of the gate, right at the 3-4 slot. Put it in neutral and let go, and it used to snap to that spot. Now, it kinda hangs at whatever slot you have it in. Say, I pull down to neutral from 5th, and it hangs at the 5-6 slot rather than snapping to the 3-4 slot. Or, go to neutral from 2nd, and it stays at the 1-2 slot. Still shifts ok, just does not return to that 3-4 slot in neutral. Is there a
  6. I've found the tires too greasy for me with higher pressures, even with the factory settings set cold. I prefer the tires sticky, and work to correct the inherent understeer with throttle and brake. I agree with leaving PSM on until you become more familiar with the Boxster's character. I actually like the back end coming out as a correction for the understeer, since you can easily correct again with the Boxster by stepping back on the gas. The Boxster is very forgiving. Give it enough time, and the PSM will intrude less as it figures out you like to drive aggressively. Its either that, or you
  7. I've tracked my 987S quite a bit. It is track-ready as-is, with afew caveats. The PS2's will wear out their shoulders very quickly. Designed by Michellin to have soft sidewalls and the edges roll over easy, not good for the track. Playing with tire pressures really can't do much without significant compromise in performance. Unfortunately, not many track capable tires in 987 stock sizes. Try Cup tires, with a little compromise on height for the rear tires. I've played with pressures all over the place. It's a personal thing on what is best. My preference based on my driving style for street
  8. Thanks to you all for the excellent help. Thanks for posting the vid, Sparky. Vey helpful. The only thing somewhat vague in the prior posts was removing the side panel to cut the trim. Here is a link to a Rennlist thread with excellent instructions and a blow up of the involved parts, courtesy of Doug Donsbach: http://forums.rennlist.com/rennforums/show...ad.php?t=403000 UPDATE: The roll bar is in. Wanted to add my voice to the choir that says it can be done. Emphasize that the prep is what makes it all easy in the end. Take your time, read all the posts, watch SparkyRacers's vid, and it
  9. Thanks again, RFM. I'm working slowly, admiring each piece and how it all was put together as I take it out. The Porsche attention to detail is outstanding! I have the Bose sound system. Not sure I have to take that subwoofer shelf out, but it seems to be in the way of pulling the side panel straight out. Might as well take the subwoofer shelf out, too. More to admire!
  10. Thanks for the info, RFM. Found out I need to take the coat hanger and upper seat belt trim out to access the screws to the B pillar trim to remove it, to in turn access the screws for the side panel, then access the lower trim so it can be cut. Looks like I'll be busy for a while.
  11. OK, guys. This is the continuing saga of making my C4S more track worthy. I got the power seats out. Thanks for the DIY, CarreraMike. Am in the process of installing the tequipment roll bar, and am trying to remove the rear side panel, the one under the rear quarter glass with the speaker in it, to access the trim that needs to be cut. Got my fingers under the panel and gave several good tugs. No go. Feels pretty tight. Can't find any screws or clips. I even removed the speaker, then the door sill, looking for clips. Did a seach with the title of this thread as the search, and I came up with
  12. EXCELLENT TREATISE!! I've only removed the seats so far, since I still have to put the roll bar on, but I could not have gotten this far without those excellent pics and commentary. I have power seats, but it's easy to figure out how to disconnect those. I would never have figured out that locking mechanism on the seat belt warning connector without your pics. THANKS!!.
  13. Have a PPI done to make sure the car is up to snuff, and you should be fine. Good luck, and congrats!
  14. I bought and am currently installing GT3 seats to my 996 C4S. The C4S has/had power sport seats. I have a 987S with standard seats. How challenging is it to put the power seats of the 996 into the 987? BTW I am using the DIY articles here as the bible to the GT3 seat and OEM roll bar install. Will write appropriate and profuse thanks to the authors when I'm done.
  15. Thanks. I've been mulling this the last few days. Since I have to order the vibration dampers and wait anyway, I might as well go ahead and order the repair kit as well. Thanks again.
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