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Palting 996 C4S

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Posts posted by Palting 996 C4S

  1. Hi Joe. I appreciate the help. The diagram is just shy of showing the part. What I need is the part that the cable (part 99642404109) attaches to on the transmission side. It would be the part that the female end of the cable on the lower left hand side of the diagram would attach to. A parts diagram of the exterior of the transmission would likely show the part, but I haven't found that one.

  2. Hello everyone. It's been a while.

    Found threads on replacing the shifter cable. Thanks to all for that. The cable is new, but now I see that the point where the female end of the cable attaches to, the male end that is on the lever that is on the transmission, is shot to pieces as well. Anyone know how to replace this male end, and the part and number needed?

    BTW, this is a 2002 996 C4S Coupe.

    Thanks in advance!

  3. Hi guys. The dealer changed one of the shifter cables. Just had the car back. Unfortunately, they seem to have done something to the shifter. In the past, the shifter would definitely return to the middle of the gate, right at the 3-4 slot. Put it in neutral and let go, and it used to snap to that spot. Now, it kinda hangs at whatever slot you have it in. Say, I pull down to neutral from 5th, and it hangs at the 5-6 slot rather than snapping to the 3-4 slot. Or, go to neutral from 2nd, and it stays at the 1-2 slot. Still shifts ok, just does not return to that 3-4 slot in neutral.

    Is there a return spring, or some mechanism that can be adjusted? Or did they break something? I hate to bring it back to the dealer, and have them claim wear and tear, replace the shifter for bucko bucks at $90/hour.

    BTW, I just bought the B&K short shift kit. Will installing it solve the problem?


  4. I've found the tires too greasy for me with higher pressures, even with the factory settings set cold. I prefer the tires sticky, and work to correct the inherent understeer with throttle and brake. I agree with leaving PSM on until you become more familiar with the Boxster's character. I actually like the back end coming out as a correction for the understeer, since you can easily correct again with the Boxster by stepping back on the gas. The Boxster is very forgiving. Give it enough time, and the PSM will intrude less as it figures out you like to drive aggressively. Its either that, or you actually are driving smoother. Then later, try it without PSM. Get comfortable with it first, though. I certainly would not advise lift/brake oversteer for the novice, or for someone without significant seat time in a Boxster.

    "Track ready" can mean so many things depending on what degree we are talking about. I suggest you take the car out as is, challenge the car and yourself more a bit at a time. I believe the 987 will surpise you as to how high its level of performance is in stock form compared to your previous cars.

  5. I've tracked my 987S quite a bit. It is track-ready as-is, with afew caveats. The PS2's will wear out their shoulders very quickly. Designed by Michellin to have soft sidewalls and the edges roll over easy, not good for the track. Playing with tire pressures really can't do much without significant compromise in performance. Unfortunately, not many track capable tires in 987 stock sizes. Try Cup tires, with a little compromise on height for the rear tires.

    I've played with pressures all over the place. It's a personal thing on what is best. My preference based on my driving style for street tires are the factory pressures, but set HOT, rather than cold. For R.componds, such as the cups, together with more negative camber, I use 32F/36R HOT.

    I use stock pads, both on my 987S and C4S for the track. I just use better fluid, the blue or the equivalent gold. Even with R-compounds and threshold braking at all corners, the stock pads hold up very well. I personally think all this hoopla on Pagids, Hawk, etc are just that. Hoopla. That is, of course, IMHO.

    I've seen camera mounts at the windstop bar, and on top of the roll bar. My C4s is the camera car, so I don't have any personal experience with mounting a camera on my 987S.

    Anything else specific? You say you already have track experience in other cars. The 987 is a very forgiving car, will let you drive yourself out of hairy situations that other cars, like the 911, will spank you for. Get comfortable with the car, then try throwing it around. This car is a joy to throw around!! Rotates around your butt in response to throttle inputs intuitively. A little short on the HP side, but tons of fun in the twisties!!!!

  6. Thanks to you all for the excellent help. Thanks for posting the vid, Sparky. Vey helpful.

    The only thing somewhat vague in the prior posts was removing the side panel to cut the trim. Here is a link to a Rennlist thread with excellent instructions and a blow up of the involved parts, courtesy of Doug Donsbach: http://forums.rennlist.com/rennforums/show...ad.php?t=403000


    The roll bar is in. Wanted to add my voice to the choir that says it can be done. Emphasize that the prep is what makes it all easy in the end. Take your time, read all the posts, watch SparkyRacers's vid, and it will be a very rewarding DIY.

    In case anyone is wondering, the sunroof does not interfere with either the rotation or placement of the roll bar.

    Thanks again to Renntech.

  7. OK, guys. This is the continuing saga of making my C4S more track worthy.

    I got the power seats out. Thanks for the DIY, CarreraMike. Am in the process of installing the tequipment roll bar, and am trying to remove the rear side panel, the one under the rear quarter glass with the speaker in it, to access the trim that needs to be cut. Got my fingers under the panel and gave several good tugs. No go. Feels pretty tight. Can't find any screws or clips. I even removed the speaker, then the door sill, looking for clips. Did a seach with the title of this thread as the search, and I came up with everything that had side, panel and/or removal in the thread, but not the one I need.

    Maybe I'm just too wimpy and need to tug more forcefully, or need to tug a certain way, or need a trick I don't know about.

    Any advice, input, insight is appreciated. Thanks in advance.

  8. EXCELLENT TREATISE!! I've only removed the seats so far, since I still have to put the roll bar on, but I could not have gotten this far without those excellent pics and commentary. I have power seats, but it's easy to figure out how to disconnect those. I would never have figured out that locking mechanism on the seat belt warning connector without your pics. THANKS!!.

  9. I bought and am currently installing GT3 seats to my 996 C4S. The C4S has/had power sport seats. I have a 987S with standard seats. How challenging is it to put the power seats of the 996 into the 987?

    BTW I am using the DIY articles here as the bible to the GT3 seat and OEM roll bar install. Will write appropriate and profuse thanks to the authors when I'm done.

  10. Dont have a diagram for you, but it may be easy to figure out.

    I had two previous sources for a rattle in the past, easily diagnosed and fixed. If you crawl under and look just beyond the tips, there is a clamp that holds the two pipes together and secures them. The weld on the right clamp broke on mine. Replaced under warranty. The second source of rattle at another time was the cat converter. Tech simply hit the offending cat with a rubber mallet, reproducing the rattle. Again, replaced under warranty.

  11. After reading through DIY posts of short shifters, switches and what not- this has got to be the dumbest question yet. Trying to save myself the embarrasment, I've read through a whole bunch of posts after searching, but can't find it. I've looked at that console sideways, frontways, backways and cross-eyed, and can't figure it out. I surrender. How DO you detach and lift off the console?

  12. Just a quick question. I have a 987S too and find it way too bumpy/tight with PASM on Sport all the time. Is this freeway/smooth road driving only for you or city or a mixture? I live in Palo Alto, CA and do pretty much a 50/50 split between hwy and city. Any others?

    I enjoy the normal setting for routine street drivng. It smoothens out the expansion joints on the highway so well, compared to the X73 C4S. The only thing I don't like are dips on the road. The back end has a noticeable tendency to travel more than the front on dips when it's on "normal". Otherwise, I reserve the sport setting for canyon drives and the track.

  13. MY99-01 replacement engines don't have the AC attached, MY02-04 do. At least, AFAIK.

    Thanks for the replies. There have been a lot, or at least what rumor has as a lot, of returned 996 engines. I have visions of these same engines being dismantled, washed and scrubbed, re-assembled, bubble gum and band-aids applied, then sent back out as "re-manufactured" :D.

    What are "re-manufactured" engines, anyway? As was said, are they simply new engines, never placed in a car, that were re-tuned after failiing a dyno?

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